
Rook ys 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 



/ 








PETS 



FOR 



PLEASURE AND PROFIT 







l^ BY 

aKhyatt verrill 




CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
NEW YORK • 1915 












Copyright, 1915, by 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



Published March, 1915 




MAR 30 1915 

(Dci,A3n8134 



INTRODUCTION 

Whether civilized or savage, city-bred or living in the 
country, boys of every age and nation are fond of pets. 
The boy without a tame bird or animal of some sort is to 
be pitied, for in the companionship of a dumb creature lies 
a wonderful amount of pleasure, while affection, humanity, 
and love are fostered and developed to a great extent by 
caring for pets. 

A domesticated bird or animal, properly fed and cared for, 
is beyond a doubt far better off and far happier than its 
wild cousins, but if improperly treated and fed its lot is far 
from enviable. A great many pets no doubt suffer from dis- 
ease, mistreatment, and improper food, but in nearly every 
case this is due to lack of knowledge or mistaken kindness 
rather than to intentional cruelty on the part of the owner. 

Of course many boys, and grown-ups as well, are brutal 
or cruel by nature and seem to take supreme pleasure in 
teasing or maltreating the unfortunate birds and animals 
that come under their power. Such people would no doubt 
be just as cruel to children or to their fellow men and the 
fact that they are naturally unfitted to control any living 
thing is no reason for discouraging others from keeping pets. 

Unfortunately, there is a great dearth of books or pam- 
phlets treating of the care and rearing of pet birds and 
animals, and this book has been prepared with the purpose 
of filling this long-felt want. 

V 



vi INTRODUCTION 

Numerous handbooks have been written dealing with 
some one group or class of animals or birds, such as dogs, 
cats, pigeons, canaries, etc., but no general work containing 
full directions and rules for rearing, feeding, and caring for 
every kind of pet has hitherto been published. 

To many boys the unusual appeals most strongly, and for 
this reason the author has devoted a great deal of space to 
describing various beasts and birds that are seldom seen in 
confinement, but which are particularly adapted to life in 
captivity and make excellent pets. 

Some of these animals are regularly domesticated in their 
native lands but are never seen in our own country, save in 
menageries and zoological gardens; and yet their docility, 
intelligence, handsome colors, and interesting habits par- 
ticularly fit them for household pets. 

Others are of value mainly for large estates or for profit, 
and for this reason have been included, for it is a hard matter 
to draw the line between true pets and animals or birds 
reared for profit. Out of every flock or herd some in- 
dividual will develop unusual traits and intelligence and, 
whether chicken, goose, calf, or colt, a pet will be made 
of it. 

As a knowledge of natural surroundings, food, and habits 
are essential to the proper care and feeding of any foreign 
bird or animal, the author has given as much information on 
these matters as possible and the reader who is interested 
in natural history will find not a little valuable instruction 
in the descriptions of the wild birds and animals. 

During many years' experience as a naturalist and natural- 
history collector the author has had ample opportunity to 
study the dispositions and habits of animals, birds, and 
reptiles, and it is his firm conviction that there are very 



INTRODUCTION • vu 

few wild creatures which cannot be tamed and domesticated 
by kindness, and proper care and feeding. 

Some of our native animals and birds make splendid pets 
and yet are seldom seen in captivity, while foreign species 
of the same families are commonly domesticated. White 
mice and white rats, cats, dogs, squirrels, and rabbits are 
all favorites and yet the dainty deer-mice, wood-rats, 
flying squirrels, prairie-dogs, woodchucks, coons, coyotes, 
foxes, and the odd raccoon-fox of the southwestern States 
are far more interesting and become just as tame and affec- 
tionate in captivity. We are all accustomed to parrots, 
mina birds, and pigeons as pets, but bluejays, crows, nut- 
crackers, and other native birds are far easier to raise and 
are more interesting. 

Many of our native American wild fowl and ducks are 
particularly well fitted for domestication, and breed and in- 
crease readily in captivity, and with the increasing scarcity 
of our wild birds and animals it is of great importance to 
rear them in confinement, for only in this way can many 
species be prevented from disappearing completely from our 
land. Descriptions of all these native species suitable for 
rearing in a state of domestication are included in the work, 
with directions for their care and feeding. 

A great many of our native birds and animals can be pur- 
chased tame, from dealers in ornamental and fancy stock, 
but boys living in the country or outlying districts can 
usually obtain their stock by trapping or by rearing the 
young. 

The illustrations have been prepared with the object of 
showing the various birds and animals treated in the text, 
and, in the case of such domestic animals as rabbits, guinea- 
pigs, etc., the characteristics of the more noteworthy "fancy" 



viil INTRODUCTION 

varieties. The plans for cages, hutches, runs, and other 
enclosures have been drawn especially for this book and 
embody the very latest and most improved designs for their 
various purposes. Wherever possible, several different de- 
signs have been provided, in order that the reader may select 
the one best suited to his needs and surroundings. 



CONTENTS 



PART I — MAMMALS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. General Remarks and Suggestions . . i 

Hints on keeping pets. Choice of pets. 

II. Rabbits and Hares ii 

Care and housing. Feeding. Breeding. Diseases. 
Hares for market. Fancy rabbits. Wild hares and 
rabbits. 

III. Guinea-Pigs or Cavies and Their Rela- 
tives ... 29 

Care and housing. Feeding. Breeding. Diseases 
Bolivian agouti cavies. Bolivian tortoise-shell cavies 
Bolivian Dutch-marked cavies. Peruvian cavies 
Abyssinian cavies. Animals related to the guinea-pig 
Agoutis. The pampas cavy. The paca. Capybaras 
Chinchillas. Viscachas. Porcupines. 

IV. Squirrels and Their Kin 43 

Housing. Feeding. Care and breeding. Varieties 
of squirrels. Animals related to squirrels. 

V. Large Rodents — Woodchucks and Other 

Marmots 56 

Woodchucks. Care and housing. Feeding. Habits. 
"Peter," the story of a pet woodchuck. Other mar- 
mots. 

VI. Rats and Mice 72 

Tame rats and mice. Care, housing, and feeding. 
Wild mice and rats. Other rat-like creatures, 
ix 



CONTENTS 



VIl. Carnivorous Animals 82 

Raccoons and their cousins. Care and housing. 
Feeding. The raccoon-fox. The coati. Kinkajous. 
The opossum. The bear. The story of a pet bear. 
Foxes and wolves. 

VIII. Dogs loi 

History and varieties. Care and housing. Feeding. 
Training. CleanUness. Diseases. 

IX. Cats and Catlike Animals 118 

Domestic cats. Care and housing. Feeding. Breeds 
of cats. Diseases of cats. Wildcats. Other catlike 
animals. The hunting leopard. 

X. Monkeys and Monkey-like Creatures . 133 

Uakaris. Capuchins. Marmosets. Old World mon- 
keys. Care and housing. Feeding. Diseases. Le- 
murs. 

XI. Ruminants and Hoofed Animals . . . 153 

Deer. Antelope. The goat. Dwarf antelope. Pec- 
cary. Cony. 



PART II— BIRDS 
XII. Canaries 160 

General care and cages. Feeding. Breeding. Breed- 
ing-cages and nests. Rearing the young. Diseases. 
Various breeds of canaries. The Saint Andreasburg 
canary. The Campanini Holden. The English ca- 
naries. The red canary. The gold-spangled lizard 
canary. 

XIII. Song and Ornamental Cage-Birds . . . 183 

Cages and aviaries. Flying-cages. Training birds. 
The European goldfinch. The bullfinch. The sis- 
kin. The chaffinch. The linnet. Brazilian cardinal. 
The Java sparrow. Finches. Soft-billed birds. The 
nightingale. The blackcap. Skylark. Song-thrush. 
Blackbird. English robin. Japanese robin. Clarinos. 
Shama thrush. Mocking-bird. Troopial. Starling. 
Wax wing. 



CONTENTS XI 



XIV. Parrots and Talking Birds 216 

Care and feeding. Training. Diseases. The African 
gray parrot. The green parrot. Dwarf parrots. 
Paroquets. Lories. Cockatoos. . Macaws. Toucans. 
Crows. Jays. Magpies. Motmots. The mynah. 

XV. Wild Birds 237 

Care and feeding. Obtaining wild birds. Rearing 
young birds. Hawks and owls. Crows, ravens, and 
similar birds. Blackbirds. Sparrows. 

XVI. Game-Birds and Wild Fowl 249 

Raising game-birds as pets. Pheasants. General 
care. Pens and runs. Handling new birds. Breed- 
ing. Hatching. Rearing the chicks. Feeding. Dis- 
eases. Diseases mainly affecting adult pheasants. 
Varieties of pheasants. Other game-birds. 

XVII. Water-Fowl and Wading-Birds .... 290 

Habits and care. Wild ducks. Tree-ducks. Orna- 
mental and wild geese. Swans. Gulls and terns. 
Herons. Cranes. Storks. Flamingoes. Pelicans. 
Spoonbills. Cormorants. Ibis. Shore-birds. Galli- 
iiules. Screamers. 

XVIII. Doves and Pigeons 308 

Common pigeons. Cage and breeding loft. Feeding. 
Nests. Wild doves and pigeons. 



PART III— AQUARIUMS AND REPTILES 
XIX. Fresh-Water Aquariums 321 

Preparation. Animals and plants. Collecting the 
specimens. Care and feeding. 

XX. Salt-Water Aquariums 334 

Preparation. Collecting the specimens. Care and 
feeding. Specimens of peculiar interest. 

XXI. Reptiles 347 

Reptiles as pets. Lizards. Horned toads. Gila 
monsters. Alligators. Iguanas. Turtles. Snakes. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING PAGE / FACING PAGE 



Agouti 36 Goose, Egyptian . . . 300 r 

Avadavat 196 //^Gopher, Pouched ... 80 1/ 

Black Cap 210 j/Cjround-Squirrel,Thirteen- 

Capuchin ^\\ V Lined, or Spermophile . 46 ^ 

Capybara 36 i/Grouse, Sand 288 ^ 

Cardinal, Brazilian . . . 214 j/lSuereza 144 ^ 

Cat, Margay 130 t' Guinea-Pig, Abyssinian . 36 '^ 

Cavy, Patagonian . . . 36 »^Guinea-Pig, Bolivian . . li^ y 

Chachalaca 288 1/ Guinea-Pig, Dutch ... 36 ' , 

Chameleon, True . . . 354 v^Guinea-Pig, Peruvian . . 36-' . 

Chinchilla 36 U' Hamster 80 ^ 

Chipmunk 52 y'' Hawks, Young . Frontispiece ^ 

Chipmunk's hole, section /Hermit-Crab 344 iX* 

of 52 ^Hutch 24 l^ 

Civet 130 '^ Hutch, Breeding ... 24*^ 

Clam, Razor 340 ''^ Hutch, Movable, in tiers . 24^^ 

Coati 88 <Hutch, Outdoor .... 24 ^ 

Cockatiel 228 '^Implements for collecting 

Cockatoo, Leadbeater's . 218 ^j aquatic life 340 ; 

Cony 158 , Jay, European .... 234 \y' 

Coral 338 1^ Jerboa jG *^ 

Crane, Demoiselle . . . 306 ''' Kinkajou 88 i^ 

Curassow 288 ' Lemming 80 *^ 

Dormouse 46 '^ Lemur 150 - "^ 

Dove, Ground . . . . 318 • Lerot 46^ 

Dove, Quail 318 Linnet, Red 196 ^ 

Dove, Turtle 318* Lizard, West Indian . . 354*^ 

Duck, Mandarin .... 300 »^ove-Birds, Red-Faced . 228 {/" 

Duck, Wood 296 "^acaw. Red 218 »^ 

Duykerbox 158 •'.Magpie 234 ^ 

Finch, Lavender .... 196 ^ Marmoset 144 '^ 

Genet 130 'Marmoset, White-Eared . 140 *^ 

Gila Monster 354 / J^onkey, Bearded . . . 144*'^ 

Goldfish, Fancy . . . . 326 i^Ionkey, Midas . . . . 140 i^ 



XIV 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 

Motmot .... 
Mouse, Harvest . . 
Mouse, Pocket . . 
Mouse, White-Footed 
Muntjac .... 

Mynah 

Opossum .... 

Paca 

Paroquet, Blossom-Headed 
Paroquet, Multicolored 
Parrot, Rock-Pepple . 
Partridge, Gambel's 
Partridge, Massena . 
Partridge, Red-Legged 
Partridge, Scaled . . 

Peccary 

Pheasant, Copper . . 
Pheasant, Eared . . 
Pheasant, Elliott's . 
Pheasant, Golden 
Pheasant, Lady Amherst 
Pheasant, Peacock . 
Pheasant, Prince of Wales 
Pheasant, Reeve's . 
Pigeon, Baldhead 
Pigeon, Barb . . . 
Pigeon, Carrier . . 
Pigeon, Crowned 
Pigeon, Fantail . 
Pigeon, Jacobin . 
Pigeon, Nun . 
Pigeon, Owl . 
Pigeon, Trumpeter . 
Pigeon, Tumbler 
Pigeon, Turbit . . 

Pinche 

Porcupine, African . 
Post with netting for en- 
closure 



232^ 


76 v/ 


76^ 


76 ■ 


158 ^ 


234 


88/ 


36; 


228' 


218 


228 ■ 


286 J 


286 y 


286 . 


286 y 


158 J. 


282 ^' 


2841 


282 ; 


284 ; 


282 


284 


282 . 


282 J 


316 V 


316 ■/ 


316 


318 


316 


316 


316 


316 


316 ' 


316 


316 


140 


40 



24. 



FACING 

Prairie-Dog . . 

Rabbit, Himalayan 

Rabbit, Japanese 

Rabbit, Lop-Ear 

Rabbit, Patagonian 

Rabbit, Siberian 

Raccoon ... 

Raccoon-Fox . 

Robin, English . 

Robin, Japanese 

Sea-Anemone 

Sea-Anemone 

Sea-Cucumber 

Sea-Urchin 

Screamer . 

Seriama 

Siskin 

Skylark 

Sparrow, Cutthroat 

Sparrow, Java 

Squirrel, European 

Squirrel, Flying . 

Squirrel, Gray 

Squirrel, Red . 

Starfish, Serpent . 

Taguan 

Tamarin, or Marikina 

Thrush, Shama 

Thrush, Song 

Tinamou . 

Titi .... 

Toad, Horned 

Troopial 

Waxbill, Crimson-Eared 

Waxbill, Orange-Cheek 

Waxbill, St. Helena . 

Waxwing 

Wings, how to clip . 
Woodchuck .... 



• 



PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 



PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

PART I — MAMMALS 

CHAPTER I 
GENERAL REMARKS AND SUGGESTIONS 

Hints on Keeping Pets 

FEW boys are really happy without a pet. Even 
if it is only a mongrel puppy, a lowly mud- 
turtle, or a scraggly fowl, the youthful owner 
thinks it the most intelligent, beautiful, and affection- 
ate creature in the world and loves it with his whole 
heart and soul. 

To keep and care for living things is most interest- 
ing and instructive and, if properly done, will often 
prove a source of profit as well as of pleasure. All too 
frequently, however, pets are neglected and suffer 
greatly through ignorance of their wants or through 
lack of proper preparation for their needs. Many 
pets are acquired accidentally; a wounded bird, a 
helpless nesthng, or a stray cat or dog is found and 
carried home; no provision has been made for the un- 
expected addition to the household and the pet is 
placed, in some extemporized cage or box and fed on 

I 



2 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

anything and everything it will devour. Through 
overfeeding, improper shelter, too much handling, or 
from lack of its natural food, the poor creature dies; 
and yet no knowledge of its wants or its proper care 
has been gained by the unfortunate experience. 

Before keeping any variety of pet you should study 
the requirements and peculiarities of the various kinds; 
for only with a knowledge of what is needed and what 
you can furnish can you judge intelligently of the best 
pet to adopt. 

It is a mistake to try to keep too many different 
kinds of birds or animals, for if the variety is great it 
will require the utmost care and constant attention 
to look after their various kinds of food, their numerous 
peculiarities, and individual wants; and in the end 
you will become tired of all pets or will gradually 
ehminate certain kinds and confine yourself to one 
variety — which you might better have done in the 
first place. 

The kind of pets you decide to keep should depend 
very largely upon your location, your surroundings, 
your tastes, and the purpose for which you intend to 
keep them. If you live in a city and have only a 
small plot of ground or a stable, you should not at- 
tempt to raise wild things. Animals and birds that 
have been bred for centuries in confinement, such as 
rabbits, cavies, dogs, cage-birds, etc., should be selected. 

If, on the other hand, you live in the country and 
have plenty of room at your disposal, you can raise 
almost any kind of pet; and many birds and animals 



GENERAL REMARKS AND SUGGESTIONS 3 

may be bred with profit, and their progeny sold at 
good prices for the market or for their furs or pelts. 

While such birds and animals are not strictly pets, 
yet certain individuals of your stock will show unusual 
traits of affection and intelligence, and these may be 
kept as real pets. 

Poultry of the common varieties can hardly be con- 
sidered for pets, for although certain classes of fowls 
which are kept for purely ornamental purposes will 
prove very interesting and valuable pets, and their 
beauty alone will make them wonderfully attractive, a 
hen, a rooster, or a duck is, as a rule, stupid and unin- 
teresting. Poultry raising, under proper conditions 
very profitable, is, however, a profession in itself and 
cannot be properly included in a work devoted to pets. 

If you live in a dry country and no natural water is 
at hand you should not attempt to rear ducks, geese, 
or other water-fowl, for while certain kinds of water- 
birds will live and breed without water, yet, as a rule, 
they do far better if amply provided with their natural 
element. On the other hand, if you live in a wet, 
damp, marshy, or rainy district you should not try to 
raise birds or animals that require dry air and plenty 
of sunshine, such as prairie-dogs, pheasants, rabbits, 
or antelope. 

Choice of Pets 

The kind of pets to keep to best advantage also 
depends a great deal upon the local markets and the 
faciUties you may have for procuring food for your 



4 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

charges. If you live in a district where truck-garden- 
ing is carried on you may raise ahnost any sort of bird 
and most animals of an herbivorous nature; but if in 
a grain or hay district where fresh, green vegetables 
are hard to procure, or are expensive, you should not 
try to raise birds or animals for profit that require 
vegetables for food. In many sections of the country 
fur-bearing, carnivorous animals, such as foxes, skunks, 
mink, otter, wolves, and lynx may be bred and reared 
in captivit}^ with very profitable results; but if you 
are far from meat supplies, or in a country where small 
animals and insects are scarce, you should not attempt 
to raise them. 

For pets that may be fondled and handled a great 
deal, animals are preferable to birds; few species of 
birds will survive petting or handling, and usually they 
have strong objections to being touched. Crows, jays, 
hawks, certain parrots and paroquets, doves, gulls, 
and Java Sparrows will, however, bear a great deal of 
handling and exhibit a great amount of affection for 
their owners; and, as a rule, such birds are very intelli- 
gent and are easily taught many tricks. 

Even among animals there is a great difference in 
regard to the amount of petting to which they will 
submit. Dogs, cats, guinea-pigs, white rats, prairie- 
dogs, deer, antelope, and many other creatures may be 
handled and fondled as much as 3'ou wish without ap- 
parent injury; but rabbits, although frequently used 
as real pets, do not thrive well if handled a great deal; 
and carnivorous creatures, such as foxes, coyotes, rac- 



GENERAL REMARKS AND SUGGESTIONS S 

coons, and similar animals, are likely to snap or bite if 
subjected to much fondling. 

Fish, turtles, lizards, and even snakes of the harm- 
less varieties make splendid pets and often show great 
intelligence and affection. Snakes have little intelli- 
gence, as a rule, but certain species make very interest- 
ing pets, and if you once overcome your natural re- 
pugnance to them you will find a great deal of pleasure 
in keeping them, 

A great many people raise pets merely for exhibition 
and prize-winning purposes; and, while this is not profit- 
able unless you actually win prizes, it is very interest- 
ing and instructive. But to raise prize stock requires 
unremitting care and attention to details, and it is, 
moreover, rather an expensive pastime. If you do 
decide to raise exhibition pets you should select some 
variety of a recognized class and, if possible, a class 
not common in your vicinity. The fewer local entries 
there are the more chance you will have of winning 
prizes; and, as prize-winning stock will always sell at 
good prices, you will be able to make running expenses 
or, perhaps, considerable profit. 

If prize stock is to be raised you should never at- 
tempt to keep more than one variety of a certain kind 
of bird or animal. If you try to raise two breeds of 
canaries, or two breeds of rabbits, you will find it very 
difficult to give each the proper attention; and if by 
chance your two breeds become mixed, all your trouble 
will go for nothing and you will have to start over 
again. 



6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

As a rule, I do not advise hoys to raise exhibition 
pets, for just as much fun and knowledge can be gained 
by raising common and mongrel things as by rearing 
prize stock, with half the trouble and expense. Usually, 
a very few birds or animals will be all the ordinary boy 
can properly care for; and, as most domestic birds and 
animals are fairly prolific, he will have more difficulty 
in keeping their numbers within reasonable limits than 
in increasing them. 

Many wild birds and animals are easily raised in 
captivity, and while it is not advisable to keep native 
song-birds, many shore and water-birds, game-birds, 
and most wild animals are just as happy and contented 
and are far better off in captivity than in their natural 
haunts. 

The common idea that a captive bird or animal is 
unhappy and suffers by captivity is generally erroneous; 
and while many wild creatures, if captured fully grown, 
will struggle and pine away, they are perfectly happy 
and content if taken when young and refuse to resume 
their wild habits even when given perfect freedom. 

The author, while living in Central America, had 
many odd and unusual wild animals and birds as pets, 
and after these were reared to full growth in captivity 
they were given perfect liberty to go and come as they 
pleased. The forests and jungles were close at hand 
and while the tame deer and peccaries, the kinkajous 
and the monkeys wandered off to the w^oods in the day, 
they invariably returned at night or at feeding time. 
Quite frequently a tame deer would be seen among its 



GENERAL REMARKS AND SUGGESTIONS 7 

wild companions, but at sight of its master it would 
leave the wild deer and prefer the companionship of 
man to that of its own kind. 

Wild geese, wild ducks, gulls, herons, cranes, game- 
birds, crows, jays, and even many species of song- 
birds, if reared from the young nestlings, will become 
so accustomed to human beings and to their surround- 
ings that wild life will no longer attract them. Where 
wild ducks, geese, gulls, or game-birds are kept tame 
they will often attract wild birds of their own species, 
and frequently these wild companions will voluntarily 
remain with their domesticated friends in preference 
to continuing their wild life. 

Small birds or animals, when wounded or injured, 
will seldom recover fully and, as a rule, it is more merci- 
ful to kill them at once than to try to nurse them back 
to health. But large animals and birds, when injured 
or wounded, will often, if cared for, recover entirely 
and will prove their gratitude for the care bestowed 
upon them by remaining with their human friends. 

A bird with a broken or injured wing or leg will 
generally recover perfectly in a short time, and even 
during convalescence seems to suffer very little incon- 
venience or pain, so that whenever you have an op- 
portunity to secure a wing-tipped duck, goose, gull, 
crane, ibis, or any other large bird, you may feel con- 
fident that you may nurse it back to health and thus 
obtain an interesting and affectionate pet. 

Carnivorous birds, such as hawks and owls, and wild 
carnivorous animals are very unsatisfactory things to 



8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

raise, for they are generally savage, ill-tempered crea- 
tures, treacherous by nature, and with little or no af- 
fection in their make-up. 

As any pet requires a great deal of attention and 
quite a little expense, much better results may often 
be obtained when several boys combine to keep their 
pets together. If one boy has the grounds and facili- 
ties for keeping and housing his stock, another boy less 
fortunate in this respect may have more time to at- 
tend to them, while still another may be in a position 
to aid financially or to furnish and raise, the food sup- 
plies. This co-operative system will prove very prac- 
ticable, and each boy may have his individual pets, 
even if the stock is owned in common. 

Before securing your pets you should have every- 
thing ready for their reception and plenty of food on 
hand. If cages are used they should be cleaned and 
prepared and should be of ample size. If outbuildings 
and yards are required they should be' in perfect order, 
clean, and ready for their occupants beforehand. 

Most native birds and animals can be safely housed 
out-of-doors, for they will know enough to look out for 
themselves, but a shelter of some sort should always 
be provided. 

Foreign birds and animals must have quarters which 
approach as nearly as possible their normal conditions. 
Thus northern birds and animals should be provided 
with shelters that afford cool spots away from the sun- 
shine and should be given plenty of shade, while south- 
ern and tropical species must be given warm and cosey 



GENERAL REMARKS AND SUGGESTIONS 9 

quarters during cold weather. An old greenhouse or 
a conservatory will often afford splendid quarters for 
tropical species, but many southern birds and animals 
will withstand our northern winters if merely furnished 
a tight, wind-proof building or room. Flamingoes, 
egrets, cranes, pelicans, and other southern water-fowl 
will stand ordinary winter weather if provided with a 
tight shed or building for shelter, but parrots, toucans, 
monkeys, marmosets, and other tropical birds and 
animals must be kept at a uniform warm temperature 
and free from draughts of cold air. Most of these 
southern creatures have no idea of caring for them- 
selves, and will not know enough to keep warm if not 
confined in warm quarters. 

Just as many native birds and animals are inhabi- 
tants of particular kinds of country, so tropical species 
thrive only when their artificial surroundings resemble 
those in which they normally live. You would not 
expect beavers to thrive in a dry, sandy enclosure, nor 
prairie-dogs to succeed in a swamp, and yet many 
amateur and professional fanciers will put all tropical 
birds and animals in a room heated to a certain tem- 
perature and with very dry air. In reality, most 
tropical species require a moist, muggy warmth in 
order to do well, but such species as armadillos, ante- 
lope, tinamous, horned toads, and other species should 
be kept in a dry, warm air. 

In fact, to succeed in rearing or keeping pets of any 
sort you must study and remember the habits and 
peculiarities of each species and must be familiar with 



lO PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the country and climate from which they come. For 
this reason pet raising — especially if your pets are 
from foreign countries — will teach you a great deal 
about nature and natural history and will also add a 
great deal to your knowledge of geography and the 
climates and products of distant lands. 



CHAPTER II 
RABBITS AND HARES 

Care and Housing 

EXCEPTING dogs and cats, rabbits are the com- 
monest and most popular of animal pets. They 
are always great favorites with children, for they 
are thoroughly domesticated, gentle, easily cared for, 
and not subject to fleas, lice, or other vermin. 

While rabbits are kept as pets in countless numbers, 
yet few are really properly cared for or fed, and they 
are often subject to disease. All the tame rabbits we 
know are descended from the common, wild rabbits 
of Europe; and although the various breeds or varieties 
are called by fancy names, such as "English," "Japa- 
nese," "Himalayan," etc., these names usually have 
no connection with their native home. 

Most of the pet rabbits are of the English, short- 
haired variety, and the majority are of mixed or 
mongrel breeds. While such animals are just as suit- 
able for home pets or for the market as the pure-bred 
fancy strains, the latter are far handsomer and more 
attracive than the mongrels, and if the rabbit fancier 
intends to sell stock, he should aim to keep his rabbits 
pure and "up to the standard." Pure-bred fancy rab- 



12 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

bits will bring good prices, but ordinary, mongrel 
English rabbits bring but a few cents each. 

There are several ways of keeping rabbits, the 
method to be followed depending largely upon the 
number of individuals to be kept and the purpose for 
which they are raised. Where there is plenty of space 
and a number of animals are to be raised, out-of-door 
runs or "courts" may be used, whereas small hutches 
or cages are preferable where there are only a few 
rabbits, or where fancy breeds are raised. 

The out-of-door run or court may be paved or 
floored, or it may have a floor of earth or grass. It 
should be enclosed by a wire-netting fence with i>^- 
inch mesh and at least 3 feet high above ground. The 
netting should be fastened to stout posts set into the 
ground to a depth of about 18 inches, and the netting 
for a space of 6 or 8 inches at the top and 18 inches 
at the bottom of the posts should be left free so that 
it may be bent or turned inward. The lower edge of 
18 inches should be turned in and covered with at 
least 12 inches of earth to prevent the rabbits from 
digging under, and the upper edge of 6 inches should 
be bent in to prevent the creatures from climbing out. 
To secure the upper edge in position, cleats or brackets 
should be fastened to the posts. The enclosure should 
be provided with sleeping hutches or boxes and these 
may be any sort of stout, clean, wooden boxes with 
water-proof paper, linoleum, zinc, tin, or other material 
fastened over them to keep out the rain. The boxes 
should have sliding doors so that the rabbits may be 



RABBITS AND HARES 13 

confined when desired, and small ventilation holes 
should be made near the tops. In addition, you should 
have a few regular breeding hutches for the does. 

When keeping rabbits in individual hutches, the 
hutches should be made of good, clean boards, and they 
should be large and roomy enough to afford space for 
the inmates to exercise. By having a number of 
hutches and placing them in tiers or rows, a large 
number of rabbits may be kept in a very small space. 

A very convenient form of indoor hutch is 6 feet by 
2 feet by 2 feet, with a movable partition dividing off 
about one third of the space at one end for a nest and 
sleeping chamber. The partition should have a smooth 
hole for the inmates to pass back and forth from one 
part of the hutch to the other. The front of the 
hutch should have two doors, one of wire netting, the 
other of wood, the latter leading to the sleeping quar- 
ters; and this should be arranged to close very tightly. 
The dividing partition may be arranged to slide in 
and out in a groove between the doors, or it may be 
slipped in position through one of the doors, but it 
should always be removable in order that the hutch 
may be thoroughly cleansed. The floor should also be 
removable, or there should be a well-fitting tray placed 
over it. By using a sliding false floor above the real 
floor, the hutch may be easily cleaned. If outdoor 
hutches are desired they should have sloping roofs 
and eaves overhanging the ends and sides to keep out 
the rain, and the netting door should have a sliding 
wooden cover, or a curtain of cloth which may be 



14 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

drawn over the netting in bad weather. In any case, 
ventilating holes at the top of the hutch should be 
provided, for it is just as necessary to ventilate your 
rabbit's room as your own. 

It is an excellent plan to use movable hutches which 
may be set out-of-doors in good weather and taken 
indoors in bad weather. By nailing cleats or handles 
to the ends of the hutches, they m^y be easily carried 
from place to place. If the hutches are furnished with 
a wire-netting floor and a sliding wooden floor is ar- 
ranged over this, the latter may be removed when the 
hutch is out-of-doors, and the rabbits can nibble at the 
grass that projects up through the netting. Another 
method is to use very simple netting-floored hutches 
out-of-doors, and the regular wooden-floored hutches 
for indoors. Where there are a number of hutches to 
be kept in tiers out-of-doors, the top hutch is the only 
one which will require a sloping water-proof roof. 

It is very important to keep the hutches clean and 
free from dampness, filth, and litter. Unclean hutches 
are disagreeable and slovenly and cause many rabbit 
diseases, and in addition the creatures become dirty, 
discolored, and odorous and are soon unfit for pets. 
Naturally, rabbits are very cleanly and neat animals, 
and it is both cruel and injurious to compel them to 
dwell in dirty quarters. Clean the cages daily and 
scrub off the floor boards with soap and water, and 
always remove all stale, decayed, or wilted food from 
the hutch. For bedding, hay, fine straw, or clean, 
dead leaves will answer; and for short-haired species. 



RABBITS AND HARES 15 

clean sawdust may be used on the floors of the hutches. 
Hutches for long-haired species should never be 
sprinkled with sawdust, for this material becomes 
matted in the fur and ruins the coats of the animals; 
for such varieties use clean, soft hay. Hay of the 
proper kind may be readily made from the lawn clip- 
pings after mowing with a lawn-mower, but it should 
be thoroughly dry, sweet, and clean. The rabbits will 
nibble at the hay, but if sufficient food is furnished in 
the form of fresh vegetables, and if a layer of good 
oat straw is spread in the hutch, there will always be 
a soft, clean covering for the floor. 

Feeding 

No animal thrives as well on such a diversity of 
vegetables as the rabbit, but nine times out of ten pet 
rabbits suff'er from overfeeding. If kept in an open 
run or court the animals will have so much room for 
exercise that there is little danger of overfeeding, and 
as their appetites vary greatly, the only rule is to note 
the amount of food left over and reduce the amount 
given accordingly. In open runs, growing grass, a few 
shrubs or trees, and some quick-growing green foliage, 
such as crimson clover, vetch, or alfalfa, will provide 
green food for the rabbits to nibble when they are 
hungry. Rabbits should be fed twice a day, ordinary 
stock being fed morning and evening, and does with 
suckling young being given a noon meal in addition. 
The particular kind of food used depends more or less 



1 6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

on the season, the market, and the price of available 
vegetables. While a few staple foods are sufficient for 
rabbits, yet these animals are very adaptable to sudden 
changes of diet, and you can safely feed the particular 
vegetable which is cheapest and easiest to obtain. 

Even in winter rabbits require some green food. 
Cabbages, kale, spinach, turnips, beets, and mangels 
are all good and, while cabbages are used more exten- 
sively than any of the other green foods and are usually 
cheap, they are not particularly desirable, as they give 
the animals an unpleasant odor, and mangels or 
beets are far better; parsnips are also excellent. Hay 
should always be kept in the hutches or runs, and an 
occasional warm mash of cooked potatoes or clover 
leaves mixed with bran should be given. Whole 
crushed oats, bran, and other grains are also good in 
limited quantities. In cold weather a warm mash each 
evening is to be recommended, and now and then a 
little sulphur or some common flour mixed with the 
food will keep the animals from sufi^ering from loose- 
ness of the bowels. Rabbits require little drinking wa- 
ter when green food is abundant, but in warm weather 
or when dry food is fed there should always be pans 
of fresh, clean water within reach of the animals. 
Moreover, does with young should be given milk di- 
luted with one third warm water at least once a day, 
and in all cases a piece of rock-salt should be kept in 
the court or in each hut. 

Winter feeding should consist of green food or veg- 
etables in the morning and grain or whole oats in the 



RABBITS AND HARES 17 

evening, the animals under three months old being 
given crushed oats with bran. In summer green food 
is the chief reliance, and all garden vegetables, clover, 
dandelion, plantain, dock, and other weeds, as well as 
green grass, should be given. Wet food should always 
be avoided; pluck or cut the clover or weeds in the 
afternoon when dry, and keep it under cover until 
feeding time if it looks like a shower or there is danger 
of dew reaching it. Young rabbits under three or 
four months of age should be fed rather sparingly with 
green food, for if given too much they will soon become 
pot-bellied, and if this symptom is noticed the use of 
green food should be immediately discontinued and 
the animals placed in an open run or enclosure, where 
they will have abundant exercise. Under these condi- 
tions, they will probably soon recover, but if not at- 
tended to, and green food is given, they will die in con- 
vulsions. Old rabbits are not, however, subject to this 
disease. 

Breeding 

Rabbits breed when very young, but for healthy, 
strong animals the does and bucks should be kept 
apart until at least six months old, and even ten months 
is considered advisable by many breeders. The old 
does may be mated in February, but young does are 
usually mated in March. The young will then be 
born in April when there is plenty of green food, and 
the mother will have an abundance of milk for them. 



1 8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

If the first litter arrives in April the doe should have 
about four litters a year, at intervals of about twelve 
weeks, with a longer rest in midwinter. 

The hutch for the breeding doe should be thoroughly 
cleaned and disinfected, and a good supply of soft hay 
and oat straw should be given the doe, so that she can 
build her own nest. Either an ordinary hutch with a 
nesting compartment may be used for breeding, or a 
special hutch may be furnished. Such a hutch should 
be about 2 feet long, i foot wide, and 10 to 12 inches 
deep, and it does not require a top or lid if indoors, 
but It should be placed in a corner where the mother 
will not be disturbed or troubled. Loose boards may 
be placed over the top and holes made for ventilation. 
In an outdoor run a breeding hutch may be made by 
cutting a hole large enough for the doe in a box about 
18 inches square and 10 inches deep, and turning the 
box upside down. The doe will arrange her own nest 
in this a few days before the young are born, and when 
she commences to build the nest extra attention should 
be given to her food. Milk and warm water should 
be given regularly, and a pan of clean water should 
always be in the hutch. At this time and for several 
days after the young arrive great care should be taken 
not to frighten or startle the doe. Strange cats, dogs, 
or people should not be allowed near, and if you are 
obliged to touch or handle the hutch or nest, do so 
very slowly and carefull}^, and avoid any quick or 
sudden movement or noise. 

For the first week or two after having young the doe 



RABBITS AND HARES 19 

should be fed almost entirely on warm bread and milk 
for the morning and evening meals, and with a little 
green food and fresh vegetables for a midday meal. 
The amount of green food may be gradually increased, 
and the milk and bread reduced, and a little boiled 
corn-meal mush should be given every day or two. 
The milk, mush, and all other soft foods should in- 
variably be placed in a separate dish of earthenware, 
and as soon as the food is eaten the dish should be 
removed and washed and scalded thoroughly. 

The young will begin to leave the nest in three or 
four weeks, and the box should then be thoroughly 
cleaned and disinfected and filled with fresh straw and 
hay. The young may be weaned when a month old, 
but it is better to let them remain with their mother 
for two or three weeks longer. Remove two young 
each day until they are all transferred to another hutch, 
which should be large enough to hold all the young rab- 
bits you raise. They will get along well together until 
three or four months old, when the does and bucks 
should be separated. A number of does will get along 
together in one hutch or run, but usually the bucks 
will fight unless kept singly. 

When breeding rabbits or hares it is a great advan- 
tage to have several litters of young at the same time, 
for oftentimes one mother may have ten or twelve 
young, which are more than she can care for, whereas 
another doe may not have over four or five. In such 
cases, the surplus from one mother may be transferred 
to a doe with few young, and in this way all may be 



20 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

saved. Otherwise, all young in excess of six or seven 
should be destroyed soon after birth. 

Diseases 

If properly cared for, rabbits are very free from dis- 
eases, the most common ailments resulting directly 
from lack of care, improper ventilation, poor, insuffi- 
cient, or too much food, and unclean hutches. Such 
diseases as mange, scurf, surfeit, and eye disease, or 
ophthalmia are due to foul quarters. Cold snuffles and 
similar troubles arise through improper ventilation and 
sudden draughts of cold air when rabbits are kept in 
warm buildings. Many stomach and bowel troubles 
come from feeding too much juicy green foods to young 
rabbits, or from changing their diet too suddenly, as 
well as from feeding wet food. For pot-belly, constipa- 
tion, and other digestive troubles, plenty of exercise 
is the best remed}^, but severe constipation may be 
remedied by mush and other soft foods and a little 
castor-oil. For diarrhcea, a little dry barley meal or 
powdered acorns in skimmed milk are effective rem- 
edies. 

Ear canker, an incrustation of the ear, and ear-wax 
may be cured by washing off the crusts with lukewarm 
water and a soft sponge and applying powdered bo- 
racic acid. This should be repeated daily until cured 
completely. 

The most serious disease known to rabbits, especially 
in America, is coccidiosis, caused by an internal parasite, 



RABBITS AND HARES 2i 

and this trouble kills a great many young rabbits. 
The greatest care should be taken to prevent the in- 
troduction of this parasite, and hew animals should 
always be kept separated from your old stock until 
it is certain they are not affected. Where hutches are 
kept in tiers, the disease is very apt to spread if once 
introduced, although absolute cleanliness will do much 
to prevent it. 

Whenever a number of young rabbits which are 
well cared for become pot-bellied and show S3^mptoms 
of cold and snuffles, you may suspect that old rab- 
bits which are apparently healthy are suffering from 
chronic coccidiosis, and are expelling coccidia (para- 
sites) from their bodies. The first steps to be taken 
are to isolate the affected animals and their hutch and 
clean and disinfect it thoroughly. If the animals are 
badly affected it is best to kill them mercifully and not 
try to cure them unless they are extremely valuable. 

Hares for Market 

Although most rabbits in this country are reared as 
pets, yet they are very profitable animals to raise for 
the market. The small domestic rabbits are not in 
great demand for food in America, but in England 
they form a very large and important part of the diet 
of many people. So many are annually consumed in 
Great Britain that, in addition to the immense native 
supply, from ten thousand to twelve thousand tons 
are imported, mostly from Australia and New Zealand. 



22 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

In America the wild rabbit is well known in the markets, 
and diirm«; the past lew years the Belgian Hare has 
been widely raised for market purposes. This animal 
is superior to the ordinary rabbit, is strong, hardy, and 
easy to raise. Although opinions differ as to the origin 
of the Belgian Hare, some holding it is mereh' a variet}' 
of the rabbit and others contending that it is a cross 
between the hare and the rabbit, there is little doubt 
that it originated in northern Europe, where for a very 
long time it has been raised extensively for food. 

Unfortunately, most of those who undertook to raise 
Belgian Hares in this country devoted more attention 
to producing fancy, pedigreed show animals than to 
developing a profitable business from market animals. 
The result was that Belgian Hares soon became a fad 
and the country went hare-mad, and when a reaction 
came this really superior food animal was soon neglected 
and, in many cases, given up entirely. Nevertheless, a 
great many people are to-day raising Belgian Hares for 
the market and are finding it a pleasant, eas}', and 
profitable business. 

The Belgian Hare is one of the most desirable ani- 
mals for table use and is probably superior to all other 
breeds of rabbits. It weighs more than other breeds, 
develops very rapidly, is prolific and ver\' hardy. The 
general care and feeding of the Belgian Hare are pre- 
cisely the same as for common rabbits, and at four 
months of age the young are ready for market and, if 
properly fed, should weigh six pounds or more. 

Hares mav be marketed either alive or killed and 



RABBITS AND HARES 23 

dressed. In the former case they should be crated 
properly and shipped to market, and in hot weather 
this is by far the better plan. Moreover^ many people 
may object to killing or dressing the animals, and by 
shipping them alive this will be avoided. If the ani- 
mals are to be killed this may be done in two ways, 
either of which is practically painless and perfectly 
humane. The best method is to dislocate the neck. 
As it takes some little practice to do this properly, most 
amateurs will prefer to kill by a blow on the head. 
To dislocate the neck the animal should be seized by 
the hind legs with the left hand, the thumb of the right 
hand placed just behind the ears, where the neck joins 
the head, with the palm resting on the left side of the 
hare's head, and the fingers holding firmly under the 
jaws. The creature should then be quickly and sud- 
denly stretched out with considerable force, at the 
same instant pressing in with the right thumb and 
bending the head sharply back. The simpler and 
easier method is to hold the hare by the hind legs with 
the left hand and strike a sharp, hard blow on the 
back of the head with a round stick of hard wood. 
In either case, as soon as the rabbit is stunned or the 
neck dislocated, the jugular vein should be cut with 
a sharp knife, and the carcass hung head downward 
to bleed. 

The next step is to make a longitudinal incision with 
a sharp knife down the middle of the belly, being care- 
ful not to cut into the intestines but severing the 
skin and abdomen. The intestines, paunch, and other 



24 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

viscera should then be drawn out, and the heart, Hver, 
and kidneys left in place. A slit should then be made 
between the tendon and the bone of one hind leg, the 
other leg slipped through the cut, and the carcass hung 
up until it stiffens. 

The bodies should be packed in a basket, hamper, or 
a well-made crate, or even in a barrel with ventilation 
holes. If a crate or basket is used, it should be pro- 
vided with slatted trays so that the hares may be sepa- 
rated in layers, but if a barrel is used each carcass may 
be wrapped in paper, and the rabbits packed in layers. 
The trays are far preferable, however, and the superior 
condition in which they reach the market \V411 usually 
result in an increase of price more than sufficient to 
pay for the time and trouble incurred and for the cost 
of the trays. If the market is not far distant arrange- 
ments may be made to have the empties shipped back 
to the breeder. 

Although it is impossible to state just what a person 
should realize from market rabbits, yet under usual 
conditions there should be a good margin of profit. 
Much depends on the distance to the market, the de- 
mand, and the cost of food. In England, where rabbits 
and hares are as common in the market as fowls, the 
prices paid for the dressed animals average from ten to 
twelve cents a pound. In America the price varies a 
great deal; but in many places from eighteen to twenty 
cents a pound is the price paid for dressed rabbits and 
hares. Usually better prices may be obtained by sell- 
ing direct to the consumer than to a marketman or 




-^ 


f 


i 

\ 


d 

1 


4 




; 




RABBITS AND RABBIT-HUTCHES. 

I. Lop-Ear. 2. Patagonian. 3- Himalayan. 4. Siberian. J. Japanese. 

a. Movable outdoor hutch in tiers. b. Breeding-hutch. c. Simple outdoor hutch. 

d. Post with netting for enclosure. e. A simple hutch. 



RABBITS AND HARES 25 

commission merchant, but of course the demand is not 
as great. Sometimes definite arrangements may be 
made with hotels and restaurants as to price and 
quantity. 

Fancy Rabbits 

Although the ordinary English Rabbit is an excellent 
animal for a pet, yet some of the other "fancy" breeds 
will be found more attractive and interesting, and if 
kept in good shape and bred true to form and color 
they will sell readily. The care of these fancy breeds 
is much the same as for ordinary rabbits, but sev- 
eral of the varieties are rather delicate and must 
be kept indoors or in a very sheltered location in cold 
weather. 

Some of the most notable fancy varieties are the 
following : 

Lop-Ear 

This was at one time a great favorite with many 
people, both professional fanciers and amateurs, espe- 
cially in England. The breed is easily recognized by 
the long, soft, drooping or "lop" ears, which often 
reach an enormous size in pure-bred stock. Fourteen 
inches or more is not unusual for the length of each 
ear of this rabbit. The Lop-Ear is a rather large, 
"rangy" rabbit, usually of solid color. In breeding, 
those with uneven, stiff, or angular ears should be dis- 
carded, and only those with the longest, softest, and 
most perfect ears retained. 



26 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Patagonia7i 

This is a variety in which the ears are erect but 
bend sharply and at an angle near the tips. It is not 
often seen and should not be confused with rabbits 
having some "Lop-Ear" blood, and which have one ear 
drooping or bent, or have a partial curve or drop to 
one or both ears. 

Himalayan 

This is a very beautiful and striking breed of grace- 
ful, compact build, and distinguished by its peculiar 
color markings. Well-bred Himalayans have the nose, 
tail, ears, base of ears, with a small space on the head, 
and feet and legs pure black. The body should be 
white, but Himalayans with yellow, gray, brown, or 
orange bodies are sometimes seen. If well-marked, per- 
fect animals are desired great care must be used to dis- 
card all stock whose markings are "off color," uneven, 
or mixed with light hairs. 

Siberian 

This is a long, silken-haired variety, resembling the 
Angora in its coat but with the dark nose, ears, and 
feet of the last breed. It is a very attractive, pretty 
variety but must be carefully brushed and cared for 
if the coat is to be kept in good condition. Breeding 
does get on better if the hair is clipped fairly short, as 
otherwise it becomes matted and objectionable. 



RABBITS AND HARES 27 

Japanese 

This is a curiously marked variety, distinguished by 
the even, tiger-Hke bands on the body and the dark 
nose and ears. Great care in breeding must be taken 
in order to keep the markings clear and distinct. 

Angora 

This is the commonest breed of long-haired rabbits, 
but the majority of so-called Angoras are nowhere 
near pure-bred. Practically any long-haired or semi- 
long-haired rabbit is classed by ordinary dealers as an 
"Angora." The true, pure-bred Angora is a very 
handsome and very troublesorne creature. The hair 
should be extremely long, very soft and silky, and the 
color uniform. The perfect Angora is snowy white, 
but Angoras of any solid color are very attractive. 

Many ordinary English Rabbits show tendencies to 
long or Angora-like fur, and in breeding either the 
common or the fancy breeds such individuals should 
be discarded. Angoras require frequent brushing, 
scrupulous cleanliness, and careful feeding to do well; 
for a mussed-up, dirty Angora rabbit is about as miser- 
able and unattractive a creature as one can find. 

Wild Hares and Rabbits 

All varieties of wild rabbits and hares may be raised 
in captivity and usually become gentle and affectionate. 
The little Cottontail, the Northern Hare, the Jack 



28 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Rabbits, and the Arctic Hares may all be raised for 
pets, and will usually breed in confinement. The food 
required by these creatures is practically the same 
as for tame rabbits, but fresh bark, grass, and green 
food is very important. The Arctic Hare will also eat 
moss and some kinds of evergreens and is very fond 
of young birch shoots and buds of trees. 



CHAPTER III 

GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES AND THEIR 
RELATIVES 

THE name of guinea-pigs so long applied to these 
little creatures is really misleading, for they are 
not related to pigs and did not originate in 
either Guinea or New Guinea. They are properly 
cavies, and though no naturalist can state definitely 
from what particular species they are descended, there 
is not the least doubt that they originated in Central 
or South America, where numerous wild varieties of 
their family still exist. 

Cavies are very easily reared and are so docile, quiet, 
good-natured, and neat that they are universal favor- 
ites with boys and fanciers. Although mainly used as 
pets, or for exhibition purposes, many people keep 
them to drive away rats and mice; for it is a common 
belief — apparently founded on fact — that rats and 
mice will not infest buildings or houses where cavies 
are confined. 

The commonest type, or breed, of cavy is a smooth- 
haired variety known as the English or Bolivian Cavy. 
These are found in a great variety of colors and are 
divided by fanciers into several distinct classes for ex- 

29 



30 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

hihition purposes. The most important are Bolivian 
Solt-Colored Cavios. Ihe main points in this variety 
are tlie huge head wirli an outward curve to the face, 
or "Roman nt)se"; fairl)' huge ears turned over at the 
upper edge and nearly bare of hair; short neck; deep, 
wide shoulders; broad back; and a plentiful, short, soft, 
glossy coat. The main point to be obtained is an 
absolutely e\en coloruig o( a single shade of red, cream, 
brown, black, or white. A single hair of an}' other 
color will disqualify this breed for prize contests, and 
only by constant care in breeding and the elimination 
of all parti-colored stock can good results be obtained. 

Cark and Housing 

Cavies require comparatively little space, for they 
are not particularl\' active creatures, but their hutches 
should be large enough to afford plent}' of space for 
moving freely about, and in good weather they should 
be placed in pens or boxes, with a w^ire-netting top and 
no bottom, which may stand on a plot oi' grass. Regu- 
lar feeding, cleanliness, and proper food and bedding 
are the most important points. While quite hardv, 
cavies should not be kept out-of-doors in cold weather 
but should be housed in a fairly warm building and 
given plenty oi' clean straw, although with the short- 
haired varieties, sawdust, peat, or dry sand will keep 
the hutches free from moisture and is easily replaced 
when dirty. Long-haired cavies frequently nibble each 
other's hair, and for this reason the Peruvians should 



GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 31 

be kept in separate hutches. The other varieties may 
be kept in hutches holding several individuals, but the 
does and bucks, over five or six weeks old, should be 
separated. 

Feeding 

Cavies v^ill eat almost anything of a vegetable nature; 
but they are often overfed or improperly fed, and it is 
a good rule to feed only the best and just enough. 
Sweet hay should be given morning and evening, and 
if a little hay is always in the hutch it will do no harm 
and will give the creatures something to nibble at. 
Hay should be placed in a rack within easy reach, for 
if scattered loose in the cage or hutch it will be trodden 
and soiled and oi no use as food. Bread and milk, 
squeezed almost dry, is good with the morning meal, 
as are also a few large oats. For the midday feed 
green food is advisable, such as plantains, water- 
cress, carrot tops, parsley, dandelions, chickory, and 
clover. 

Every few days a slight change in diet should be 
made, and the evening meal should regularly include 
a mixture of bran, meal, oats, barley, or rice made just 
moist enough to stick together. By a little experiment- 
ing you can soon determine just how much food snould 
be given at each meal, and you should try to give just 
enough to satisfy the animals without leaving any ap- 
preciable waste. Never place the food loose in the 
hutch, but set it in little dishes or pans with a broad 
bottom which cannot be readily upset. Cavies as a 



32 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

rule do not drink much but depend upon the natural 
moisture in green food; but a Httle clean water should 
always be provided. 

Breeding 

Although cavies will breed at a very early age, the 
young will be stronger and better if the old ones are 
kept separated until eight or nine months old. Peru- 
vians used for breeding purposes should have the hair 
clipped quite short, as it is likely to become matted and 
dirty if not combed, and to do this when the doe has 
young is not advisable. Moreover, the long hair is a 
great impediment to the mother when nursing her 
young, and as breeding animals are not shown in ex- 
hibitions, the loss of hair is immaterial. The young 
cavies should be left with the mother for four or five 
weeks. Then they will begin to eat solid food, and 
during this time plenty of warm mash, bread and milk, 
and crushed oats should be fed. If you are raising 
stock for exhibition, the young that do not approach a 
standard should be disposed of for pets or to other 
breeders, and only the really good ones retained. 
Cavies are very prolific, and a great difficulty is in 
keeping down the stock and maintaining perfectly 
marked or standard individuals. In selecting does and 
bucks, or, as sometimes called, "sows and boars" for 
breeding, you should choose does having good size and 
coats and select the bucks which possess the best 
characters lacking in the does, such as color, form, 
eyes, etc. 



GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 33 



Diseases 



Cavies are free from all vermin and are not at all 
subject to disease or parasites of any kind. Snuffles, 
pot-bellies, loose bowels, and epileptic fits are sometimes 
met with, however. These troubles are caused mainly 
by lack of cleanliness, improper food, or sudden changes 
in temperature and should be cured as far as possible 
by natural means. Less food, especially green food, 
and more exercise will usually remedy a "pot-belly," 
while even temperature and plenty of warm bedding 
will cure colds or "snuffles." Fits usually result in 
death but can be avoided by not overfeeding with 
rich food. 

Bolivian Agouti Cavies 

This is a well-marked variety of the common cavy in 
which the short, glossy hair is a beautiful silver-gray, 
with black "tickings" through the hair and known as 
"Silver-Grays," or else the color is rich golden-yellow 
beneath, with black "tickings" over the head, legs, and 
feet. This form is known as the "Golden Agouti" 
and is a very handsome and attractive variety. 

Bolivian Tortoise-Shell Cavies 

To stand a chance of prize winning this type should 
have but three colors — red, black, and yellow — and 
while the colors may be arranged in any pattern or 
proportion, they should be sharply defined and should 



34 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

never blend or mix. White spots or patches should 
not be permitted, for the animals thus marked belong 
in another class, known as "Tortoise-Shells and 
Whites." These should, as a rule, have less white 
than tortoise-shell colors, and the white markings 
should be as regular and evenly distributed as possible. 

Bolivian Dutch-Marked Cavies 

These are cavies in which white with red, black with 
white, yellow with white, or similar colors are dis- 
tributed much in the same manner as a Dutch-marked 
rabbit, or, in other words, in heavy, regular blotches, 
with distinct, sharp edges. Specimens marked un- 
equally on both sides will not prove prize winners but 
may be excellent to breed from. 

Interesting and lovable as are the common Bolivian 
Cavies, other more fancy varieties are even more at- 
tractive. Prominent among these are the Peruvians 
and Abyssinians, neither of which names have any- 
thing to do with the native country of these little 
creatures, which are merely varieties or breeds of the 
commonplace guinea-pig. 

Peruvian Cavies 

These are very striking-looking creatures when well 
bred, and the greatest difficulty is often found in dis- 
tinguishing head from tail, so heavily covered and 
completel}^ concealed are the little fellows by the enor- 
mously long, silky hair. Peruvians are not so hardy as 



GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 35 

the Bolivians and require daily brushing to keep their 
coats in good condition. The best way to accomplish 
this is to hold the cavy on the palm of the left hand and 
brush the hair with a common hair-brush. A wire 
brush or comb should never be used for this purpose. 
This is a breed particularly well adapted for rearing by 
girls, and many of the best prize winners in this class 
have been exhibited by girls. 

The main point to be gained in the Peruvian Cavy 
is a broad, flattish body and very long, silky, abundant 
hair, which should touch the ground on the sides and 
trail behind and should completely cover the face, 
much as in the Yorkshire terrier. Color is of little im- 
portance, for they are shown in blacks, blues, grays, 
white, yellows, browns, and in various combinations 
of these colors. 

Abyssinian Cavies 

This is considered the hardiest variety of all cavies, 
and they are so odd and peculiar in appearance that 
every cavy fancier should raise them. While the coat 
of a Peruvian should be as silky as possible, the hair 
of an Abyssinian should be as harsh or rough as pos- 
sible. Secondary to the harshness of the fur is the 
matter of "rosettes." These are little circular, star- 
like growths of hair dotted all over the head and body, 
which give the rumpled and brushed-the-wrong-way 
effect. The short, bristly hair on the face and lips 
gives this breed the appearance of being quite fero- 
cious, but in reality they are as gentle and quiet as 



36 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

any other variety. Color in this breed is not impor- 
tant, although the sohd or "self" colors and tortoise- 
shells are very attractive. 



Animals Related to the Guinea-Pig 

Although the original ancestor of the domestic 
guinea-pig is not known with certainty, yet there are 
many species of cavy-like creatures found wild in trop- 
ical America, and nearly all of these are easily tamed 
and become as gentle and affectionate as the true 
guinea-pig. There are also quite a number of animals 
closely related to guinea-pigs, yet very different in 
appearance and in their habits, which are, nevertheless, 
subject to practically the same treatment, feeding, and 
housing. While these various unusual animals are not 
always to be found in the stores of animal dealers or 
fanciers, yet now and then you may come across one of 
them, and sailors returning from voyages often bring 
such things home. As out-of-the-way pets always 
attract attention and are interesting, it is advisable 
to secure such specimens when you can, especially if 
you raise other animals such as guinea-pigs, rabbits, 
squirrels, etc. As a rule, all these creatures are low 
in price, for comparatively few dealers know anything 
of their habits or needs and are glad to get rid of them. 
There is no trouble in disposing of them to zoological 
gardens or menageries if in good condition, should you 
wish to do so, and in the meantime you can learn a 
lot about their habits and peculiarities; while if they 




^^^f^/i^e^^^. 












I' Mi'. 

GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES. 
p^t-a 4- Capybara. 

Patagonian Cavy. S- Chinchilla. 

Varieties of Guinea-Pigs— 6. Agouti. 

a. Bolivian, b. Dutch. <r. Peruvian, d. Abyssinian. 



».'t^A»"W'^ 



GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 37 

breed in captivity you may often make a good profit 
from the original outlay. 

Agoutis 

These animals are natives of South and Central 
America and the West Indies and, while seldom seen 
in captivity in this country, yet in their native lands 
they are often seen in confinement and make very at- 
tractive, interesting, and intelligent pets, and are 
great favorites with the natives. 

They are closely related to the guinea-pigs, being a 
species of wild cavy, and in general form they resem- 
ble these well-known animals. They are a great deal 
larger, however, often measuring 2 feet in length, and 
have longer legs, a heavier head, and hoof-like claws. 
There are several species but, while differing slightly 
in the length of the tiny tail and in color, all are very 
much alike. In color they are brownish, more or less 
"ticked" or dotted with various shades of yellow, 
reddish, or gray, and with reddish or rich golden-yellow 
on the rump and legs. The hair is rather coarse 
but thick, and is very long on the rump, which gives 
the agouti a queer, "tucked-in-behind" appearance. 
Agoutis live naturally in deep woods and feed mainly 
at night, but in captivity they behave very much like 
guinea-pigs. They have strong, chisel-like teeth, and 
are constantly gnawing at something and, unless pro- 
vided with bits of sticks or roots, will gnaw their 
houses or cages to pieces. Agoutis eat almost any- 
thing in the way of vegetable food, but they are par- 



38 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

ticularly fond of roots, bark, and corn-stalks, and do not 
care so much for cabbage, lettuce, or grass as do other 
members of the family. Their general care is much 
like that described for guinea-pigs, but their hutches 
should be very much larger, and, if allowed to run in 
an enclosure, care should be taken to have the sur- 
rounding fence extend at least 2 feet beneath the 
surface, as these animals burrow deeply. Agoutis 
breed readily in captivity and usually have two young 
to a litter. Those born in captivity are usually very 
tame, and if given perfect freedom will remain close 
to home and soon learn to come to a call or whistle. 
They are much more intelligent than domestic cavies 
and may be taught a number of tricks. 

The Pampas Cavy 

This is a remarkable species of wild cavy, found in 
Argentina and Patagonia, and properly known as the 
Patagonian Cavy, but, owing to this name being more 
commonly applied to one of the fancy breeds of guinea- 
pigs, it is confusing. 

This animal has very long, slender legs and a short 
tail, and with its prominent ears it looks at first sight 
like some sort of a rabbit. It is of good size, 2 to 3 
feet in length, and weighs as much as twenty-five to 
thirty pounds. The fur is crisp, short, thick, and 
rusty yellow in color on the sides and legs, becoming 
gray on the back, and blackish on the rump, which is 
also decorated by a broad white band. The belly is 



GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 39 

white. These cavies are shy, watchful, restless creatures 
when wild, but when raised from the young in captivity 
they become very tame and interesting. They are sel- 
dom seen in the North, even in menageries or zoological 
gardens, but on the large estancias or ranches of the 
pampas, one or two are frequently seen about the 
house or grounds, where they are perfectly at home 
and are favorite pets with the native children. 

The Paca 

This is another odd animal related to the cavies 
and found throughout Central and South America. It 
is a very handsome little animal about 2 feet long, but 
stouter and shorter-legged than the agoutis, and with 
close, short hair. The color is brownish above and 
white below, with seven longitudinal bands, or rows, 
of white spots. It is a retiring animal and naturally 
nocturnal in its habits. It is very fond of water and 
swims and dives readily. It is as easy to raise in con- 
finement as the common cavies but should always be 
given a large pan or tub of water in which to swim in 
warm weather. The paca eats any sort of vegetable 
food, but should be provided with more roots and 
sticks than ordinary cavies. 

Capybaras 

These are the largest of all the cavy family, and are 
often 4 feet in length and weigh as much as one hun- 
dred pounds. Their heads are so large, heavy, and 



40 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

blunt, their bodies so massive, and their claws so hoof- 
like that at first sight they appear more like pigs than 
cavies. They are exceedingly fond of water, and in 
their native land — -South America — they always take 
to the water when frightened or attacked. For this 
reason, they are often known as Water Cavies. They 
are quite intelligent and are easily domesticated, but 
their great size and thin, coarse hair make them unat- 
tractive for pets, and they are far better suited for 
menageries or for collections of foreign animals. Their 
food and general habits are much like those of their 
tiny cousins, the guinea-pigs. 

Chinchillas 

These dainty, soft-furred creatures are closely re- 
lated to the cavies and guinea-pigs and are easy to 
keep as pets but seldom breed in confinement. They 
are natives of Peru and are mountain animals and 
quite hardy, and will stand our northern climate if 
housed during the coldest weather. Their food is sim- 
ilar to that of rabbits, cavies, and other rodents. 

ViSCACHAS 

These are animals forming a sort of connecting-link 
between the bushy-tailed chinchillas and the cavies, 
and in South America they occupy much the same po- 
sition as do our western gophers, or ground-squirrels 
in this country. Like these, they prove very trouble- 
some at times where abundant and, as they are about 



GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 41 

2 feet long, they can do a correspondingly greater 
amount of damage. In color the viscachas are gray, 
mottled with darker gray, white, and yellow, with black 
bands on the head. They are very easily tamed and 
become very affectionate. Their food is much like 
that of cavies, but they are also very fond of roots 
and of thistles. 

Porcupines 

These odd, spiny, sluggish creatures are often kept 
as curiosities, for their prickly nature hardly permits 
them to be used as pets, although they become fairly 
tame and are quite easily domesticated. The common 
American Porcupine lives in all our Northern States 
and Canada, and is so well able to protect itself that 
it is seldom molested and becomes quite tame about 
camps and houses. The American species is provided 
with numerous short, slender quills, or spines, which 
are mostly concealed in the long, thick fur, but the 
tail, which is short, broad, and blunt, is well covered 
with spines. The claws are hooked, and the creature 
climbs large trees readily and frequently entirely strips 
them of bark. These creatures are very slow in mo- 
tion, sluggish, and uninteresting, and should be handled 
and approached with caution, for the old idea that the 
porcupine could "shoot" its quills has considerable 
truth. The animal cannot really "shoot" the quills, 
but when disturbed the tail is jerked suddenly from 
side to side and the loosely fastened quills are thus 
thrown for some distance. The European Porcupine 



42 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

is a very different-looking creature, with long quills 
projecting far beyond the hair, and, unlike its Ameri- 
can relative, it lives entirely on the ground. Porcu- 
pines eat all sorts of vegetable food, especially roots 
and bark, and may be kept out-of-doors in runs or 
enclosures, but the native species will readily climb 
over netting fences, and for this reason boards leaning 
inward should extend up for 3 or 4 feet from the ground 
inside the netting. 



CHAPTER IV 
SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 

SQUIRRELS are among the most attractive, inter- 
esting, and satisfactory small animals for pets. 
They are always bright and lively, thrive well, and 
seem just as happy in captivity as when wild. 

Many kinds of squirrels are kept as pets, and they 
are all easy to feed and to care for and usually become 
very tame and affectionate. Moreover, they are very 
intelligent, far more so than rabbits, guinea-pigs, or 
most other small animals; and they are very neat and 
clean. 

Old squirrels, captured when wild, seldom become 
very tame and are likely to be cross or vicious; but 
most squirrels breed readily in confinement, and the 
young, when raised in captivity, are very docile and 
tame. Young wild squirrels taken from their nests or 
holes are also readily tamed and reared in captivity 
and are usually quiet and gentle in disposition. These 
animals appear to enjoy fondling and petting and are 
seldom injured by too much handhng. They will learn 
to run over their master or mistress, perch on shoulders 
or arms to eat nuts, or to search through pockets for 
hidden tidbits. 

In many places wild squirrels which have been thor- 
oughly protected from injury or molestation have be- 

43 



44 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

come very tame and confiding. In many of the larger 
cities the squirrels are abundant in the parks and shade- 
trees and may be seen hopping about on lawns, run- 
ning along fences, or jumping from tree to tree, with 
the noise and bustle of city life going on all around 
them. Many of these city-bred squirrels have the 
utmost confidence in human beings and eat readily 
from a person's hand. Some of them have been fed at 
near-by houses so frequently that they come indoors 
regularly every day for meals, even running through 
the rooms and up and down stairs and making them- 
selves perfectly at home. So tame and unsuspicious 
do these wild town squirrels become that they do not 
hesitate to climb upon the clothes of people who feed 
them and will often perch contentedly on a person's 
shoulder while eating a nut or bit of fruit. 

Housing 

Squirrels love plenty of room, and it is a great mis- 
take ever to confine them in a small cage where they 
have no opportunity for exercising. If they are tame 
enough to be let loose frequently, a very small cage will 
serve for sleeping quarters; but as a rule the cage 
should be large, airy, and fitted with natural branches 
of trees. If a small or medium-sized cage is necessary, 
it should have swings, branches, or other means of 
providing exercise, but revolving wheels should not be 
used. Squirrels will run in a wheel, it is true, and they 
often seem to enjoy it, but if given swings, branches, and 



SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 45 

a wheel, you will find that they invariably choose the 
more natural methods of exercising and accept the 
wheel when it is the only available means of satisfying 
their natural desire for rapid and constant motion. 

There are a number of species of American Squirrels, 
all of which make good pets, and the common European 
Squirrel is also frequently seen in captivity. 

Feeding 

Squirrels depend mainly upon nuts for food, but they 
are also very fond of fresh, green grass, clover, bark, 
fruit, and many vegetables. In their wild state they 
are often very destructive to young birds and birds' 
eggs; this is particularly true of Red Squirrels, and these 
animals thoroughly enjoy a little meat or an egg now 
and then. Most varieties — especially the Flying Squir- 
rels — are very fond of insects, particularly large beetles, 
grasshoppers, and spiders, and these should be given 
to them whenever possible. Peanuts, when roasted, 
should be fed very sparingly, as they are an unnatural 
food, although squirrels are very fond of them. Hick- 
ory-nuts, chestnuts, pecans, butternuts, acorns, and 
filberts are all excellent, and the harder shelled the 
nuts the better, for, unless provided with something to 
keep their teeth worn down, these creatures will suffer 
terribly from overdeveloped teeth and, if not attended 
to, will eventually die. A limited amount of fresh 
vegetables, plenty of green grass, pieces of green wood 
— such as apple and pear — with the bark on, and now 



46 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

and then stale bread-crusts will provide a good and 
ample diet. Whole oats, hard corn, barley, wheat, and 
buckwheat are first-rate food for squirrels if given in 
reasonable quantity for a variation of the diet, but hard 
nuts must be given daily to keep the teeth worn down 
and the animals healthy. 

Most squirrels are very fond of milk, and this will 
not hurt the young ones or the mothers with sucking 
young, and for the latter a little bread and milk is ex- 
cellent. Water is a necessity for squirrels, and a pan 
of clean water should always be within their reach. 
Regular feeding with squirrels is only useful as a means 
of accustoming them to your appearance, and teaching 
them to welcome you, for they all store away food for 
future use, and if fed once a day they will put by enough 
to last until the next feeding. In fact, they will gen- 
erally have enough on hand for several days at a pinch, 
and care should be taken not to feed too much. If you 
find that your squirrels do not seem anxious for food 
each time you appear, you may be very sure that they 
have stored more than they need, for squirrels seem 
to be able to judge very well just how much they will 
require in advance. 

Care and Breeding 

As I before stated, squirrel cages should be large and 
roomy. Most of the cages sold by dealers are too 
small for even Flying Squirrels, and much better cages 
may be built of stout wire netting nailed over a frame 
of wood, or fastened to a framework of metal rods or 




SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN. 

1. European Squirrel. 3. Dormouse and Lerot. 

2. Ground-Squirrel, or Thirteen-Lined Spermophlle. 4. Flying Squirrel. 

5. Taguan. 



SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 47 

heavy wire. The floor should be easily removable, for 
cleaning, and a good-sized nest-box or a rack of netting 
should be placed in one corner at some distance from 
the floor. If a very large cage is used, the nest may be 
in the form of a hollow log or tree stump. A scraggly 
branch or limb of apple, cedar, pear, or some other 
tree should be securely fastened in the cage, and several 
sections of limbs, fastened with chains so they can 
swing back and forth, should also be placed in the cage. 
Plenty of hay, dead leaves, cedar bark, and a little 
cotton should be provided for a nest, and the squirrels 
will spend a great deal of their time tearing up the bark 
and building and rebuilding their nest. 

Most of the native squirrels will stand our northern 
winters, and if the cage is large it can be kept safely 
out-of-doors all winter, but the top must be covered 
to prevent rain, sleet, and snow from drifting and beat- 
ing in on the inmates. Flying Squirrels and Ground- 
Squirrels hibernate in winter, however, and Red Squirrels 
sleep more than half the time; and if you wish to enjoy 
the company of these pets throughout the year, you 
should keep the cage inside a fairly warm building in 
winter-time. 

Where there is ample room, and you wish to have the 
squirrels perfectly at home, you may enclose quite a 
plot of ground with netting. Sink the lower edge of 
the wire netting a few inches underground and roof 
over the entire enclosure with it ; and if Ground-Squirrels 
are to be kept within, the whole floor should be dug 
out for a foot or so in depth, and close-meshed netting 



48 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

placed on tlie bottom of the excavation and covered 
with the earth. In such a cage you may enclose shrubs, 
small trees, and masses of loose stones, or you may in- 
troduce hollow tree trunks and logs and numerous 
swings and branches. 

Squirrels of all varieties usually breed readily in 
confinement if their cages are roomy and good nests 
are furnished, but the males frequently kill and devour 
their own 3'oung. When the doe has 3^oung it is best 
to separate the male from her and take no chances, 
although if given a natural hole for her nest she will 
probabl}' be capable of looking out for the safet}^ of her 
family without your help. Male squirrels are very 
quarrelsome among themselves, and as soon as the 
)^oung are able to look out for their own wants they 
should be separated from the old ones, and the bucks 
and does placed in separate cages. Several does will 
usually get on together, and if paired off there will 
seldom be any trouble; but unless you want cross and 
quarrelsome males they should be kept apart. 

Fl3'ing Squirrels are an exception to this rule, however, 
for these little creatures are very sociable and dwell 
together in perfect peace in one large nest or hole. If 
several nests are given them they will form several 
distinct colonies and wull seldom quarrel. 

Varieties of Squirrels 

The European species is easily distinguished from 
most of the American Squirrels by the prominent tassels 



SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 49 

or tufts of hair on the ears, although a few of our native 
species also have ear-tufts. 

The Gray Squirrel 

The species most commonly seen in captivity is the 
common Gray Squirrel^ a fairly large, handsome 
species, rich silvery-gray in color, with reddish-brown 
on the head and ears and along the sides, and with a 
magnificent, bushy tail fringed with snow-white. 

The Gray Squirrel makes a good pet, but the males, 
especially when old, are apt to be cross and vicious 
and will sometimes bite if fondled too much or touched 
suddenly. They live naturally in heavy woods and 
build nests both in trees among the branches and in 
holes. They are easy to capture with box traps, and 
the young, raised in captivity or taken from the hole 
or nest and reared by hand, are usually very tame and 
docile. 

The Fox-Squirrel 

Another very beautiful American species is the Fox- 
Squirrel. This is a very variable species found through- 
out the Central, Western, and Southern States. It is 
usually slightly larger than the Gray Squirrel, and in its 
best and most typical form is rich, reddish or tawny- 
brown in color. Where the Gray and Fox-Squirrels 
inhabit the same localities they mix, and many odd va- 
rieties occur which have the characters of both species. 

In the South Atlantic and Gulf States a black form 
of the Fox-Squirrel is found, with pure white ears and 



so PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

nose. This is a very beautiful creature and quite 
different in appearance from the black form of the 
common Fox-Squirrel, which lacks the white nose and 
ears and usually has traces of reddish on the lower 
parts. This latter variety is rather difficult to dis- 
tinguish from black specimens of the common Gray 
Squirrel, but the latter is always pure white, or whitish 
below, while all the Fox-Squirrels are reddish or tawny. 
In the Southwestern States another Gray Squirrel 
occurs which has a very large and beautiful tail of 
white, black, and gray, much longer than the head and 
body. This species extends from Arizona into Mexico 
and is a splendid creature. 

The Rocky Mountain Squirrel 

Probably the most beautiful of all this group of large 
squirrels is the Rocky Mountain Squirrel, a species 
nearly a foot in length, with an enormous, bushy tail. 
The color is pure dark-gray, white below, with a bright, 
reddish-brown band on the back and a stripe of jet- 
black on the flanks. This handsome creature has 
pencilled or tufted ears, like the European Squirrel, 
and is sometimes found in a perfectly black stage, but 
even in this form it may be easily recognized by its 
large size and tufted ears. 

The Red Squirrel 

The common Red Squirrels or ^^chickarees'' are much 
smaller than those species belonging to the Gray- 




RED SQUIRREL. 




GRAY SQUIRREL. 



SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 51 

Squirrel group and have a smaller and flatter tail and 
tufted ears like the European Squirrel. In color the 
chickaree is reddish or tawny, with a dark streak along 
either side and white below. The tail Is reddish or 
"fox color," with a black stripe on the edges, and is 
almost flat instead of being full and "bushy" like the 
Gray Squirrel's. Red Squirrels are very lively, rest- 
less, irritable animals, full of life and vivacity, and if 
taken when young or bred in captivity they are easily 
tamed and become very docile and affectionate. They 
are usually shorter-hved than their larger cousins, but 
if properly cared for and fed they will Hve many years 
in captivity and will breed freely. 

The Flying Squirrel 

The most lovable and beautiful of our wild squirrels 
are the Flying Squirrels; dainty, gentle creatures, 
with large, soft eyes, downy coats, and affectionate 
dispositions which make them favorites wherever they 
are kept as pets. They are very small creatures, and 
their thick, soft fur makes them appear larger than 
they really are. They are exceedingly easy to tame, 
whether captured fully grown or taken when young, 
and are always gentle and affectionate and very seldom 
attempt to bite or scratch. Unlike the other squirrels, 
these little chaps are mainly nocturnal in habits when 
wild and are seldom seen during the day, but in cap- 
tivity they soon learn to feed and frolic in daylight, and 
often remain wide awake and lively all day long. 



52 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Flying Squirrels make their nests in old birds' nests, 
in holes in trees, or even in barns or garrets, and usu- 
ally a number live together in perfect harmony. 



GroundSquirrels 

Ground-Squirrels are often kept as pets, but they are 
not true squirrels and are often classed among the 
gophers, although in reahty distinct from both the 
true gophers and the true squirrels. They are properly 
known as "spermophiles." There are a great many 
species of the Ground-Squirrels in America, and in some 
parts of the country they are a nuisance and annually 
cause an immense amount of damage to growing crops, 
besides spreading the terrible bubonic plague. Never- 
theless, they make charming and interesting pets and 
do well in captivity. The Ground-Squirrels are found 
most abundantly in the Central and Western States, 
where they live in holes or burrows in the earth. The 
Gray Gopher or "Gray Ground-Squirrel" is a common 
western species, which looks much like a miniature 
Gray Squirrel. The " Thirte en-Lined " Ground-Squirrel 
has six or eight light-colored stripes alternating with 
rows of light spots on a coat of dark reddish or blackish- 
brown, and this odd "Stars-and-Stripes" pattern gives 
the pretty little fellows a very patriotic appearance. 

The Mexican Ground-Squirrel or spermophile is an- 
other beautiful species of a dark-brown tint, decorated 
by ten rows of squarish, white spots and with the tail 
bordered with black. Our common eastern chip" 




CHIPMUNK. 




SECTION OF CHIPMUNK. S HOLE. 



SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 53 

munk or Ground-Squirrel is a pretty, reddish-brown or 
tawny fellow, with his sides and back decorated by 
stripes of black and white, and is more closely related 
to the true squirrels than are his western cousins. 

All the spermophiles and chipmunks live naturally 
in holes or burrows, among stone walls or in hollow 
logs, and in captivity should always be furnished with 
a section of a hollow stump, or some similar dark hole 
for their nests. They are all easily tamed and make 
interesting pets but are far less affectionate and intelli- 
gent than true squirrels. 

The western spermophiles live in colonies and play 
and frolic outside of their burrows like kittens, to pop 
out of sight on the first sign of danger. They all have 
large pouches in their cheeks in which they carry stores 
of nuts, grain, or other food with which they provision 
their homes, for they are thrifty creatures and always 
maintain a well-filled larder. Many of the species 
hibernate or sleep all winter in a wild state, but in 
captivity they will remain lively throughout the year. 

The nest of a chipmunk is a very interesting home, 
and if you can discover one and dig it out carefully you 
will be surprised to find how cleverly it is arranged. 
There are usually two doors to the house; one, the front 
door, being hidden beneath a stone or stump, while the 
other or back door may open some distance away. 
Near the front door is a large chamber or room which 
may be called the "living-room," for here the owner 
spends most of his time when not sleeping, and this 
room is usually littered with odds and ends of nut- 



54 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

shells, bits of bark and leaves, etc. Just beyond this 
is the bedchamber, a cavity filled with a warm, soft 
nest of bark, grass, and leaves, while still farther on 
and near the back door is the storeroom or pantry, 
which is always kept well filled with provisions. 

Animals Related to Squirrels 

A great many foreign animals, now and then seen 
in captivity or offered for sale by dealers, are very 
similar to squirrels in habits, care, food, and require- 
ments. Some of these make splendid pets and are 
kept as such in their native lands. Among these crea- 
tures are the dormice, which have always been favorite 
pets with English children. They are distantly re- 
lated to the squirrels and are most gentle, lovable, and 
affectionate little creatures, resembling miniature squir- 
rels in appearance. Larger species of the same group 
are found in southern Europe, and are known as the 
"ZozV," and ^' Lerot." They look much like dormice 
but are larger and have different tails; all three species 
require practically the same food and treatment as 
Flying Squirrels, although unlike true squirrels they 
may be reared and kept in very small quarters. 

Related to the Flying Squirrel is the Asiatic 
** Taguan." This animal has very much the same 
habits as the Flying Squirrel and, although 2 feet or 
more in length, it is almost as docile and easily tamed 
as its tiny American cousin. 

Another large Flying-Squirrel-like creature is the 



SQUIRRELS AND THEIR KIN 55 

Scale-Tailed Squirrel of Africa. This extraordinary 
animal has the form of a squirrel, with the flaps of skin 
on the sides Hke a Flying Squirrel, and is of a reddish 
color. The most remarkable feature is the tail, which 
is provided with a number of large, horny scales, which 
the owner uses in climbing much in the manner that a 
man uses climbing-irons for clambering up a telegraph- 
pole. The Scale-Tailed Squirrel is not often for sale 
at dealers' but is sometimes seen in zoological gardens, 
and now and then some mariner brings one home as a 
curiosity. Sometimes the animal dealers in the large 
seaport towns have one or two on hand, and as unusual 
pets are always attractive, the young pet lover should 
visit these places frequently and may often pick up 
splendid pets at a very low price. 

There are also several species of Central and South 
American Squirrels which make good pets. Some of 
these closely resemble the Fox-Squirrels, while others 
are richly and quite brightly colored with orange, red- 
brown, and rich, deep black. Several of these tropical 
squirrels have coarse hair, so stiff as to be almost like 
spines, and one or two actually have sharp spines 
among the hairs. 

These South American Squirrels are not Infrequently 
found at the stores of animal dealers, and with the in- 
creasing number of tourists who visit the tropics each 
year they may soon become quite common as pets in 
the North. 



CHAPTER V 

LARGE RODENTS— WOODCHUCKS AND 
OTHER MARMOTS 

THE rodents or gnawing animals are nearly all 
suitable for pets; and while rabbits, guinea-pigs, 
and tame rats and mice are the rodents usually 
seen in captivity, there are many others that make 
very interesting pets. 

Nearly all rodents are naturally timid or gentle in 
disposition, are easily tamed, and require very little 
care or attention in captivity. Moreover, rodents are 
cleanly in their habits; they require but little space, and 
the food that they need is very cheap and easily pro- 
cured. For all these reasons rodents are particularly 
adapted to a life as pets, and it is strange that more of 
the larger rodents are not kept by boys and other 
lovers of tame animals. 

It is not necessary to seek far for large rodents for 
pets, for in nearly every part of America certain wild 
rodents abound which may be caught when young or 
trapped when fully grown and may be reared in cap- 
tivity. Moreover, to confine these creatures is no 
cruelty or hardship; most of them are considered pests 
by the farmers and agriculturists and are relentlessly 
trapped, killed, or poisoned. In comparison with their 

56 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 57 

wild life, filled with constant dread of man, unceasing 
vigilance, and incessant persecution, their life as pets, 
when well cared for, properly fed, and safe from injury 
or harm, must prove a very welcome change and must 
be a far happier existence. 

Where any bird or animal is common and a nuisance 
we are apt to overlook its really attractive and interest- 
ing features. Our commonest native things are far 
less studied and less known to the average man or boy 
than many rare or imported creatures. Although every 
farmer's boy knows the woodchuck, or ground-hog, 
yet few of them are really familiar with its ways or life 
and would be mightily surprised to find what an inter- 
esting and engaging creature the little pest really is. 
The same is true of the western gophers or the prairie- 
dogs and of many other common wild animals. 

WoODCHUCKS 

The woodchuck is the most common and the largest 
of the American Marmots, a group of animals related 
to the squirrels, although very distinct in appearance. 
The eastern woodchuck is found from Hudson's Bay to 
the Southern States, and throughout the Central West, 
and was formerly exceedingly abundant. Through 
years of incessant warfare waged against these animals 
by the farmers, they have in many places become very 
rare, or so shy and retiring that they are seldom seen. 
Even where woodchucks are scarcely ever visible their 
holes or burrows may be found, and while this creature 



58 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

is a most intelligent animal and well able to take care 
of its own safety, yet with a little trouble they may be 
captured in box traps or snares. The large, full-grown 
animals caught in this way seldom become really tame 
or gentle, however, and it is a far better plan to dig out 
the nest and get the young. If the burrow is in loose 
or sandy soil there is little difficulty in digging it out, 
but if among rocks or tree roots it is hard, slow work. 

It is difficult to tell just when young will be found 
in the nest, for the time at which they are born varies 
in different parts of the country, and the most satis- 
factory method is to watch the hole carefully from a 
good hiding-place until the j^oung are seen playing close 
to the entrance. If they are old enough to toddle 
about outside they are old enough to rear in captivity 
and are still young enough to become thoroughly tame 
and domesticated. It is usually a good plan to take 
two or more of the young, for oftentimes one may de- 
velop some disease or may always remain wild and 
vicious. Moreover, several of the creatures will be 
happier together than one by itself, and if they breed, 
as they probably will, you may raise young wood- 
chucks in captivity. It is scarcely any more trouble 
to raise three or four young animals than a single one, 
and it is very disappointing to take a lot of time and 
trouble with a young animal only to have it sickly or 
unsatisfactory when it grows up. If after the young 
are reared you do not care for more than one, you can 
readily dispose of the others to some friend or to a 
zoological park or museum. 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 59 

Care and Housing 

Before securing the animals you should provide for 
their proper housing. A wire-netting cage or enclosure 
of good size should be ready, and if this can be placed 
out-of-doors in a sheltered spot, so much the better. 
If possible the netting should be sunk well into the 
earth, and an underground floor of netting should be 
provided. The cage should also be roofed over with 
boards and tarred paper, or some other water-proof 
material, and a comfortable nest-box or hutch should 
be placed in one corner. If you intend to keep your 
woodchucks in the cage permanently, it should be at 
least 8 or 10 feet square and 5 feet high, but if in- 
tended merely for a temporary rearing cage it may be 
very much smaller; in fact, an ordinary wooden box 
with a netting front and a removable floor will serve 
very well for rearing the animals or a hutch made like 
a rabbit-hutch will do nicely. Such temporary quar- 
ters should be kept in the house or barn, for it is very 
important to accustom the young animals to the con- 
stant sight and presence of human beings. 

A good bed of clean, soft straw should be placed in 
the cage with a pan for water. 

Feeding 

The food should consist almost entirely of fresh, 
green vegetables, with plenty of fresh grass, clover, 
alfalfa, or similar things. Fresh young stalks of bushes 



6o PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

and shrubs, young apple and pear branches, and fruit 
are also relished by woodchucks and should be given 
freely. Woodchucks will also eat insects at times, and 
if your pets show any desire for grasshoppers, crickets, 
etc., do not hesitate to give them all they want. 
Young woodchucks will require some soft food until 
able to gnaw and masticate well, and for the first few 
weeks milk, oatmeal or corn-meal mush, soft, green 
grain, and similar things should be fed. Although 
woodchucks in a wild state will eat almost any green 
thing and will limit the amount they eat to their re- 
quirements, yet in captivity some care must be taken 
not to overfeed them. If too much food is given 
they, will become exceedingly fat and lazy, and the 
lazier and fatter they become the more the}^ will eat, 
until they either die or are seriously sick from excessive 
feeding. Woodchucks always look plump and fat, but 
this is because of the loose skin and thick fur, and a 
healthy woodchuck in summer is really lean. If the 
animals are fed twice daily with fresh vegetables and 
other green foods and in the meantime are given some 
hay, or branches with the bark on, to nibble, it will be 
ample. The only way to gauge the amount of food 
provided is to watch the animals as they eat, and as 
soon as they lose interest in their food and leave it for 
a few moments at a time, the food remaining should 
be removed, and the amount fed at the next meal 
reduced accordingly. On the other hand, if the crea- 
tures devour all that is given them and pick up all 
the scraps and odds and ends and appear to desire 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 6l 

more, you should give enough additional so that they 
will appear satisfied. If one person always feeds the 
woodchucks they will soon learn to recognize their 
master, and if a peculiar call or whistle is given each 
time they are fed they will very soon learn to come 
racing toward the sound when they hear it. As the 
woodchucks become tame and recognize your appear- 
ance or voice, you should fondle and pet them and also 
accustom them to eat from your hand. After a time 
you may let one of them, selecting the tamest of the 
lot, out of the cage or enclosure for a few minutes. If 
you let the animal loose when hungry and hold some 
food in your hand there is Jittle danger of his trying 
to escape. If he appears willing to follow you about 
and does not run or scamper away as you approach 
him you may gradually increase the length of time he 
is allowed at liberty. The same method may be fol- 
lowed with the others until any or all of the little 
fellows will feed and play about and come to you at 
a call. If at the first sign of danger or the approach 
of a stranger, they scamper toward their cage you 
may rest assured that they realize that the enclosure 
is their home and will not run away. If they do not 
readily run into the cage you may train them to do so 
by attracting them within by food and tidbits. These 
animals are very quick to learn and, as they are not 
inclined to wander very far, they may be given con- 
siderable liberty. 

If you have any growing plants, flowers, or vegetables 
near by you should never allow the woodchucks out 



62 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

of their cage unwatched, for if you do they will play 
havoc with your garden in short order. 

Habits 

Woodchucks hibernate or sleep all winter, and at 
the approach of cold weather they grow very fat and 
lazy. If you keep your animals out-of-doors, and they 
have their own burrows, they will take care of them- 
selves when cold weather arrives, but they should be 
fed a great deal as winter approaches in order that they 
may accumulate enough fat to last them through the 
winter. If the animals are kept indoors or in a build- 
ing they may become lazy and sleepy and will doze 
most of the time during the coldest weather, but will 
not really hibernate. Where woodchucks are kept 
out-of-doors and have only a hutch or box for protec- 
tion, instead of burrows, a weather-proof nest should 
be furnished for their winter quarters. An old hollow 
log buried in the earth, a barrel sunk in the earth with 
a drain-pipe or similar entrance, or a box covered with 
sods, leaves, straw, and hay will do nicely. After the 
woodchucks have retired into such a shelter it may 
be buried deep beneath straw, leaves, and sods with a 
layer of straw thrown over the entrance, and within 
this snug retreat your pets will sleep soundly until 
the warm air of early spring arouses them, and they 
crawl forth to the sunlight, thin and gaunt, but ready 
to eat a hearty meal of the first green things that they 
see. The animals may or may not come out on or 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 63 

before Candlemas Day, but you should not place any 
reliance on the popular superstition in regard to the 
ground-hog and his shadow. Woodchucks are likely 
to appear on any warm, spring day, even if the cold 
weather afterward drives them back to their holes; 
and on warm, pleasant, sunshiny days in midwinter I 
have often surprised woodchucks sunning themselves 
on some warm rock or stump, while the surrounding 
country was white with snow, and the lakes and rivers 
were locked with ice. 

Sometimes woodchucks that are very tame and thor- 
oughly domesticated will wander off to the fields or 
woods and remain several days. If these pets show a 
restless disposition or a tendency to wander in spring 
or fall they should be shut up; for, while they may re- 
main away a long time and yet return to their master, 
still there is a good chance of their reverting to a wild 
life or of being killed or trapped. 

"Peter," the Story of a Pet Woodchuck 

A good many years ago a friend of the author found 
several young woodchucks playing about their bur- 
row, and succeeded in catching one of the fuzzy little 
fellows. The baby woodchuck was carried home and 
given to a little girl in the family for a pet. She named 
the woodchuck "Peter," and lining an old squirrel 
cage with soft hay, she placed her new pet within and 
furnished him with fresh clover and water. For the 
first few days Peter was very wild and snapped and 



64 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

bit whenever a person approached. In the course of a 
week he gave up biting and snapping and ate readily, 
and within two weeks would nibble at food held in his 
mistress's hand and would permit her to scratch his 
head. 

He grew very rapidly and in a month was a large, 
splendid animal, and so tame and docile that the little 
girl carried him about in her arms like a pet cat. 

On one occasion his cage door was accidentally left 
open and Peter walked out, but he merely frisked 
about for a short time, nibbled at grass and weeds, and 
returned to the cage of his own accord. After that the 
door to the cage was always left open, and the wood- 
chuck would play about the veranda or nibble in the 
lawn all day long, and would invariably go back to his 
cage for the night. He had now learned to answer to 
his name and would come when called as readily as a 
dog. One day Dorothy's grandmother was baking, 
and as Peter trotted into the kitchen she handed him 
one of the cookies she had made. After smelling at it 
carefully, tasting it, and nibbling at it, he decided that 
it was good, and ate it, and from that time cookies 
were his favorite food. As soon as he heard the sound 
of dishes and pans or smelled the odor of baking he 
would scurry around to the kitchen door, sit on his 
haunches, and wait patiently until the desired cooky 
was given to him; then he would scamper off to some 
chosen spot, jumping in the air and whisking his stumpy 
tail in great glee as he ran. He would sit up on his 
haunches, hold the cooky in his paws, and nibble away 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 65 

at it like a squirrel with a nut, frequently cocking his 
head on one side and licking his chops in a most 
comical manner. As Peter was free to go and come as 
he pleased, he would often wander off to the woods 
near the farmhouse to spend the day, always returning 
at night. Finally, one bright day in October he failed 
to return and his mistress was almost heartbroken 
for fear that he had been killed or trapped, and all 
winter long she mourned her pet. 

One fine April morning as Dorothy and her grand- 
father were walking along the road she noticed a big 
red woodchuck sitting on a stump in a field. The 
little girl called her grandfather's attention to the 
animal, and asked him if he didn't think it looked 
"just like Peter." "Perhaps it is Peter," he replied. 
"Call him and see." Stepping close to the stone wall 
beside the road she waved her hands and called: 
"Peter, Peter! Come here, Peter!" For a minute 
or two the big red woodchuck looked at the little girl 
with his head on one side and then, scrambling down 
from the stump, he came running across the field; 
sure enough it was Peter, safe and sound, and glad 
indeed to see his little mistress after his long winter 
sleep. 

Dorothy was overjoyed at his return, and hugged 
and kissed him, and danced about, and Peter seemed 
to be fully as glad and delighted himself. He rubbed 
his nose against her, frisked about, and made queer, 
grumbling little barks in his throat. Peter was car- 
ried home in triumph, and was fed and petted enough 



66 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

to make up for all the time he had been away. That 
afternoon Dorothy's grandmother got out her baking 
tins and rolling-pin, and the moment that Peter heard 
the familiar sounds he started up, ran to the kitchen 
door, took his old place again and waited, begging for 
his cooky. He had not forgotten what baking day 
meant during his long sleep. 

One day Dorothy's grandfather found that his 
vegetables had been eaten ofF, and, as Peter had never 
been known to go near the garden, they thought that 
some wild woodchuck had made his home close by. 
That night a trap was set, and the next day, when the 
trap was visited, there, caught fast by one leg, was 
poor Peter. 

His leg was broken, and he moaned and groaned in a 
most pitiful way while it was being washed and band- 
aged. He was put to bed in a cosey nest in a basket, 
and was petted and soothed and cared for like a sick 
baby. 

After a long time Peter was able to get about as 
well and hvely as ever, but he had learned a lesson, 
and never again showed any desire to steal Into the 
garden. 

Other Marmots 

Very similar to the woodchuck in appearance and 
habits are the Yellow-Bellied Marmot of the Rocky 
Mountain region and the "Whistler," or Hoary 
Marmot, of the Northwest. Both these and the wood- 
chuck vary greatly in color, and the woodchuck is 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 6^ 

found in various shades of grizzly gray, brown, tawny 
or red, or even coal black. 

In Europe and Asia several species of marmots are 
found, the best known being the "Bobac," which lives 
in immense colonies in Asia, and the common or true 
"Marmot," found over both Europe and Asia. 

Prairie-Dogs 

Very different in many ways are the prairie marmots 
or prairie-dogs of our western plains. While in gen- 
eral form and appearance these creatures somewhat 
resemble woodchucks, yet their habits and fur are quite 
distinct. Whereas true marmots have a small, broad, 
flat nail on the "thumbs" of the forefeet, the prairie- 
dogs have a well-developed nail, and the other toes 
are armed with strong, hooked claws. The wood- 
chuck has long, coarse hair, but the prairie-dogs have 
short, close hair, and the tail is much shorter and 
smaller than that of the other marmots. Prairie-dogs 
live in large colonies, sometimes covering many miles 
with their burrows, so that a person may travel for 
hours through these vast "dog-towns," the little 
mounds about the holes extending as far as the eye 
can see, and every one surmounted by a little animal 
sitting bolt upright at the mouth of his hole, with his 
fore paws folded on his breast or hanging down. Un- 
like the silent woodchuck, the prairie-dogs keep up an 
incessant sharp barking — ^on which account they have 
received their popular name — and at the least sign of 
danger ducking like a flash into their burrows. The 



68 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

mounds of earth thrown out by these busy and indus- 
trious creatures often contain several bushels of dirt, 
and to still further increase their height for observation 
purposes, the little animals scrape the surrounding dirt 
onto the mounds. The prairie-dogs prefer sandy, 
gravelly, or sterile soil, and often locate in such barren 
regions that one cannot imagine how so many annuals 
can subsist on the scanty vegetation where water is 
entirely wanting. 

Prairie-dogs are even more alert and watchful than 
woodchucks, and it is vet}' difficult to kill or capture 
them. When taken full}' grown the\' are hard to tame, 
and remain savage and intractable, but when taken 
young the}' are readil}' tamed, and become as thoroughly 
domesticated and docile as an}' animal. 

In the same colonies with the prairie-dogs, owls and 
rattlesnakes are often found, and a great man}' stories 
have been written stating that these creatures dwell in 
peace, as a sort of "happy famih"," with the marmots. 
This is not the case by any means; both owls and snakes 
are enemies to each other and to the prairie-dogs. 
The owls devour the young snakes and young marmots 
when they can get them, while the snakes prey on the 
marmots and owls alike. But as all three creatures 
live in burrows, and in sandy, open districts, they have 
a common interest in the colony. 

Prairie-dogs in captivity require practically the same 
food and care as the common woodchucks, and the 
directions given for the latter will serve equally well 
for prairie-dogs. 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 69 

Canadian Porcupines 

Another large American rodent which may be kept 
in captivity, though it can scarcely be classed as a 
"pet," is the Canadian Porcupine. This clumsy, odd- 
looking creature has a surly, unsociable disposition, and 
never becomes thoroughly docile and tame, although 
it thrives well in captivity. The common porcupine 
feeds on all sorts of vegetables, corn, young shoots, and 
bark and climbs tall trees in search of buds, leaves, and 
bark. He is mainly nocturnal in habits and is not 
an interesting or attractive creature. Porcupines may 
be caught in traps or their young may be taken from 
a "den" among the rocks and ledges where they live, 
but they are only interesting as curiosities and are 
hardly to be recommended to pet lovers. If a porcu- 
pine is kept in captivity it should be remembered that 
he is a born climber, and although so sluggish in his 
motions and apparently so clumsy, yet he can climb 
any tree and will get out over a wire-netting fence as 
easily as a squirrel. 

If a large cage with a top cannot be provided, these 
animals should not be kept; although they are some- 
times seen chained to a post like a dog or a bear, this 
is a cruel and inhumane method and should never be 
followed. Unless you can keep captive animals in as 
good condition as when wild and just as happy and 
contented, do not keep them at all, but confine your 
pets to domesticated species, such as rabbits, guinea- 
pigs, and similar animals whose ancestors for many 



70 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

generations have been reared in captivity, and which 
are dependent upon man for protection and care. 



Armadillos 

These remarkable creatures are not rodents, but some 
of their habits are so much Hke those of true rodents 
and their care is so similar that they maybe properly in- 
cluded in the present chapter. There are various 
species of armadillos, the largest, known as the "Giant 
Armadillo," being 4 or 5 feet in length, while the 
smaller species, such as the "Six-Banded Armadillo," 
and the "Three-Banded Armadillo," are less than 2 
feet in length. All the members of the family are 
easily recognized by the peculiar horny "shell" or 
armor within which the animal is enclosed. This 
hard carapace is movable and jointed, and when dis- 
turbed the odd creatures roll themselves into a ball with 
the armor completely protecting them from injury. 

In their native state the armadillos are mainly noc- 
turnal and live in holes or burrows, which they dig 
very rapidly by means of their strong, hooked, front 
claws. In confinement they are quite lively during 
the da}^, and burrows are not necessary. When wild, 
armadillos eat all sorts of vegetable and animal matter, 
and many of the species eat carrion, the Giant Arma- 
dillo even burrowing into graves to reach the bodies of 
the natives. Wherever they are found the armadillos 
are considered excellent eating and are hunted and 
trapped by the natives. The armadillos are natives 



WOODCHUCKS AND OTHER MARMOTS 71 

of tropical America, and one species extends as far 
north as Texas. 

Armadillos in captivity thrive well on bread, boiled 
eggs, raw meat, poultry heads, mice, and insects, and they 
will also eat many kinds of fresh vegetables, fruit, etc. 

They are very easily cared for, require little atten- 
tion, and do not require a large cage, as they may be 
allowed perfect freedom indoors for several hours 
daily. If kept out-of-doors in warm weather they 
should be confined in an enclosure, with a strong net- 
ting floor covered with a foot or so of sandy earth, and 
the upper edges of the enclosure should be covered 
with an inwardly projecting roof or ledge, at least 6 
inches wide, to prevent the animals from climbing out. 
Although armadillos do not climb in a wild state, yet 
they do not hesitate to scramble up wire netting or 
any other rough object when in confinement. 

These animals are quite intelligent and are easily 
and quickly tamed. They become quite affectionate 
and learn quickly to answer to a name or call and 
thoroughly enjoy being petted or fondled. Moreover, 
armadillos are perfectly harmless and cannot inflict 
injuries save by scratching with their claws, and as 
they are so easily tamed and become so gentle they 
seldom attempt to scratch or show ill temper. In 
many ways these odd animals are most desirable pets, 
and, in fact, I do not know of any unusual pet which is 
to be more highly recommended for interest, docility, 
and ease of care, and any boy who can secure a pet 
armadillo is fortunate indeed, 



CHAPTER VI 

RATS AND MICE 

Tame Rats and Mice 

WHITE mice and white rats are often kept as 
pets, but they are not nearly as popular 
nowadays as a few years ago. Although they 
become very tame, and are usually gentle and affec- 
tionate, they are by no means as interesting or desirable 
as many other tame animals. Rats and mice always 
smell disagreeably, and with the very best of care it is 
impossible to entirely overcome this "mousy" odor of 
these rodents and of their quarters. Many generations 
of breeding have produced the numerous varieties of 
white, piebald, and tortoise-shell mice and rats, but 
their natural character has been little changed. They 
are not particularly attractive, for regardless of color 
or docility they always look like rats, and the natural 
aversion of many people to these animals cannot be 
overcome. 

The common brown or black house rat or the or- 
dinary little brown mouse can be tamed and domesti- 
cated and, as a rule, they are just as intelligent as the 
fancy varieties, and yet few people would care for these 
animals as pets. Tame rats and mice may be taught 
a number of tricks, but they are no better for this 

72 



RATS AND MICE 73 

purpose than many birds or animals which are far 
more attractive and desirable. 

Of the two I think the mice are preferable to the 
rats. They are cleaner in habits and require less 
room and are, as a rule, more docile. Rats are always 
treacherous and are likely to bite their owner without 
warning, and the wounds inflicted by their teeth are 
always dangerous. Rats, moreover, are well-known 
carriers of disease, and where there is any contagious 
disease it is likely to be transmitted by rats or mice. 
Even if tame rats are kept in cages and isolated some 
wild rat is likely to carry disease to them, and in places 
where bubonic plague or cholera is epidemic, rats are 
now known to spread these terrible diseases from place 
to place. 

Care, Housing, and Feeding 

Rats and mice are easily kept and do not require a 
great deal of care. Small wire cages with a nest basket 
or compartment are suitable for these creatures, but 
the floor tray should be easy of access and should be 
cleaned and scrubbed daily. The sleeping compart- 
ment should be filled with soft rags, cotton, or tow, 
which the animals will tear up and form into a nest. 
Water should always be provided, and the food 
should be given in small dishes and only enough to 
satisfy the rats or mice should be fed at one time, 
although a dish of dry corn, wheat, or small nuts may 
be kept in the cage at all times for the animals to 
nibble at between meals. 



74 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Rats and mice delight in exercise, and branches and 
perches should be provided as well as swings. Wheels 
are often placed in the cages for rats and mice, and the 
animals often whirl around and around in these con- 
trivances. They are not desirable, however, for the 
long tails of the rodents often become injured or broken 
in the wheels. Swings will afford all the exercise re- 
quired, and even branches or perches will give the pets 
ample opportunities to run and scamper about. 

Tame rats and mice will eat almost anything and 
everything just the same as wild rats or mice, but' they 
should not be given everything they will eat. Dry 
bread crusts, grain, corn, green food, vegetables, and 
fruit should be their diet, and in warm weather corn 
and nuts should be fed sparingly. Meat should never 
be given or your pets will become vicious and devour 
one another. Insects may, however, be given from 
time to time, and nuts, especially hickory-nuts and 
filberts, may be fed freely in winter-time and sparingly 
in summer. A good-sized piece of wood, preferably a 
piece of green wood with the bark on, should be left in 
the cage at all times for the animals to gnaw. If the 
rats do not have something to gnaw on their teeth 
will grow abnormally long and will eventually kill them. 

Clean sawdust sprinkled with disinfectant should be 
spread over the tray of the cage. Care should be taken 
in using a disinfectant, as many of these substances 
are very poisonous to animals. Oil of eucalyptus is 
the safest and best compound. This should be diluted 
with water — about one teaspoonful of the oil to a cup 



RATS AND MICE 75 

of water — and sprinkled on the sawdust and all por- 
tions of the cage with an atomizer. 

When the mother rat or mouse has young the male 
should be taken away and placed in another cage, as 
otherwise he will kill or devour his young family. It 
is claimed by some that this is abnormal, and that if 
fed sufficiently the male will not devour the young. 
This is true in the case of many animals, but my experi- 
ence is that rats and mice will become cannibals even 
when given all the good food they will eat. 

Do not overfeed; give just as much as they will eat 
at one time and no more, and if you find any food re- 
maining after an hour or two, reduce the next meal 
accordingly. Do not feed soft, mushy, or sloppy foods; 
nature gave rodents teeth for gnawing, and unless they 
are used for the purpose intended the animals will be- 
come sickly and their teeth will become too long. 

There are numerous breeds or varieties of tame rats 
and mice, but each belongs to one of the two species, 
and has been produced from wild brown forms by 
selecting and breeding. Pure white animals with pink 
eyes are the commonest variety. Others are white 
with brown or black spots, while others are "tortoise- 
shell," or have several colors combined. Still other 
varieties are pale-gray, others black with white mark- 
ings, and others yellow or orange. The so-called 
*' waltzing mice" are merely animals with a brain dis- 
ease which causes them to run in circles or in an erratic 
manner. They were originally produced in Japan and 
may be bred easily in confinement. They are amusing, 



76 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

but to many persons their affliction seems more pitiful 
than interesting. 

Wild Mice and Rats 

The commonest of all rats and mice are the brown 
animals, which often prove such a pest in our houses 
and barns. These are foreigners and were introduced 
from Europe with the earliest settlers. The rarer 
Black Rat is also European but is so much weaker 
and less pugnacious than the brown rats that in most 
places it has been exterminated by them. 

The common brown rats and mice are such a nui- 
sance and so disgusting in habits that many people are 
averse to any rat or mouse, and have quite overlooked 
the fact that a great many species found wild are 
very handsome and attractive. Some of the wild 
wood and field mice and rats are exceedingly graceful 
in form, beautiful in color, and interesting in their 
habits. 

The common White-Footed Mouse, known also as 
the Deer-Mouse, Wood-Mouse, or Field-Mouse, is a 
very lovely and lovable creature. In color this dainty 
fellow is warm fawn, reddish-buff, or even golden, with 
a darker back and snow-white feet, legs, and lower 
parts. The ears are large, the eyes big and soft, and 
the tail quite thickly clothed with hair. Another very 
pretty species is the Harvest-Mouse, a dainty little 
creature less than 2 inches in length, with a prehensile 
tail, which it uses much in the manner of an opossum 
or monkey. These pretty creatures build nests in 




"y^^^^^Mj 



I. Harvest Mouse. 



RATS AND MICE. 
2. White-Footed Mouse. 3. Pocket Mouse. 4. Jerboa. 



RATS AND MICE 'j'j 

grass or among grain or take possession of an old 
bird's nest. They are easily tamed and become very 
affectionate and have very little of the objectionable 
mouse-like odor. 

Among the larger rats there are also many attrac- 
tive wild species which make far more desirable pets 
than the tame white variety. The Wood-Rat of the 
South and West is a beautiful species, with a well- 
furred tail. This animal is bright tawny or golden- 
yellow above, with pure white breast, throat, feet, and 
belly, and has very soft, large eyes. The wood-rats 
live in trees and make large, bulky nests. They are 
as lively and attractive as squirrels, and run and jump 
from tree to tree with the utmost facility. In many 
places they are considered excellent eating, their flesh 
being as white and well flavored as that of a rabbit or 
squirrel. 

Other Rat-Like Creatures 

Many animals related to rats and mice have the 
power of jumping for long distances, and have the 
hind feet and legs wonderfully developed so that they 
resemble miniature kangaroos in appearance and 
habits. 

Jerhoas 

The common jerboas of Africa have large ears, small 
front feet, and enormous hind feet, and travel almost 
entirely by hops and skips, using their tufted tail as a 
fifth leg. They are interesting, pretty creatures and 



78 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

easily domesticated. We do not need to look to the 
Old World for representatives of these kangaroo-like 
mice, however. In the United States we have several 
wild species, the commonest being the Jumping Mouse, 
which is found from the Atlantic coast to the Pacific, 
as far north as New England and Canada. This odd 
mouse has very powerful hind feet and a long tail, and 
when alarmed makes off with great leaps of 8 or lo 
feet at a bound. Ordinarily, however, the little fellow 
moves about on all fours like ordinary mice. The 
Jumping Mouse lives mainly in the woods and sleeps 
and breeds m cosey grass nests in hollow trees or in 
burrows in the earth. It is easily tamed and makes 
an interesting pet. 

The Pocket-Mouse 

A still more remarkable species is the Pocket-Mouse 
of the Southwestern States. This remarkable animal 
is fawn-colored above and white below, with white 
feet and a white stripe on the hips. The fur is as fine 
and soft as silk, and the eyes are very large and lustrous. 
The head is abnormally large — or the body abnormally 
small — and this with the enormous hind legs and dimin- 
utive front feet and long, tufted tail gives the tiny 
creature a very droll and unusual appearance. This 
animal is very easily tamed and becomes exceedingly 
affectionate. Unfortunately, he is nocturnal in habits 
and spends a good deal of his time sleeping during the 
day. If, however, he is fed in the daytime and food 
is not left in his cage at night he will very soon learn 



RATS AND MICE 79 

to sleep at night and keep awake in the day Hke ordi- 
nary animals. 

The true Kangaroo Rats of Austraha are not rats 
at all but marsupials, and are related to the kangaroos. 
They are about as large as rabbits and make very at- 
tractive and interesting pets. They feed mainly on 
roots and vegetables and do not gnaw Hke true rats. 

Various other creatures related to the rats are found 
in the United States, among them being the odd 
Pouched Gophers, or Pocket-Rats, curious animals 
with short tails, strong, long-toed front feet, and re- 
markably powerful teeth. These animals grow to 
large size — sometimes a foot in length. Their cheeks 
are provided with enormous pouches in which they 
carry a supply of food to their burrows. As they are 
always hungry and are continually burrowing about 
and devouring roots, they prove very destructive to 
vegetation in many places. In some parts of the West 
and Southwest they are a serious pest, and thousands 
of them are killed yearly by the farmers. Although so 
destructive, they have interesting ways and may be 
kept in captivity. 

The Hamster 

Somewhat similar in habits to the Pouched Gophers 
is the hamster of Europe and Asia. This animal is 
about lo inches long, with a short tail. The color is 
rich yellowish or tawny-brown, with black, yellow, and 
red markings on the head and with the lower parts 
black. The coloration is very striking, and the fur of 



8o PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the animal is used a great deal for lining coats and 
ladies' wraps. 

The hamster builds roomy, underground galleries 
and in these stores great quantities of grain, roots, and 
other food. Like our common woodchuck, the ham- 
ster sleeps through the winter and wakes in the spring 
with a healthy appetite, which it at once satisfies on 
the store of provisions it has so wisely provided. Al- 
though irritable and pugnacious when wild, yet the 
hamster is easily tamed and does well in confinement. 

The Lemming 

The remarkable lemmings of the northern portions 
of Europe, Asia, and America are also related to rats 
and mice but are very different in appearance. They 
are quite small — only 5 or 6 inches in length — but they 
are so exceedingly numerous at times as to overrun 
the entire country and prove a menace to everything 
in their path. When migrating or when travelling 
from the mountains to the lowlands, the lemmings at 
times appear in vast multitudes. They proceed straight 
on their course, regardless of rivers, lakes, or other bar- 
riers. They are insensible to danger and invade houses 
^nd towns, devouring everything edible which they 
find, and passing in an irresistible army until they 
reach the sea. On their marches thousands are killed 
by birds of prey, animals, and men, but they are so 
numerous that there seems to be but little diminution 
in their numbers. Such tidal waves of animals only 
occur occasionally and are due either to an abnormal 




I. Lemming. 



VARIETIES OF RODENT. 

2. Hamster. 3. Pouched Gopher. 



RATS AND MICE 8l 

increase in the numbers of the animals or a scarcity 
of food in their native haunts or to both causes com- 
bined. The great numbers of the animals killed on 
the march decreases the hordes until the balance of 
nature is re-established, and the lemmings retire to 
oblivion for several years. 

In color the lemmings are dappled with chestnut, 
black, gray, and buff, with a white collar, tail, and feet. 
In some species the coat becomes entirely white in 
winter. The fur is dense, soft, and silky and reaches 
well over the feet and toes. The lemmings, being arctic 
animals, are very hardy. They feed upon herbage, 
grains, roots, and insects, and are very easily kept in 
captivity. They soon become tame and gentle and 
make interesting and desirable little pets. 

Any variety of the wild mouse may be easily cap- 
tured in box traps or caught in their nests, and any 
boy who lives in the country or near woods and fields 
can obtain interesting pets in this way. 

After you have kept some of the cunning and really 
pretty wild mice or wood-rats you will wonder why 
any one ever keeps the uninteresting and common- 
place ones. 



CHAPTER VII 

CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 

Raccoons and Their Cousins 

THE carnivorous or meat-eating animals include 
a great many species and families, many of 
which are far too large, savage, or dangerous to 
be kept as pets. Nevertheless, many of the carnivora 
make docile, gentle pets, and the common dog and cat 
both belong to this group. A great many of the car- 
nivorous animals which when fully grown are savage 
and dangerous are very gentle and playful when young; 
and even young tigers, lions, and leopards are inter- 
esting, playful, and harmless creatures until they are 
pretty well grown. Such creatures cannot be recom- 
mended for pets, but a great many of the smaller car- 
nivorous animals make splendid and extremely inter- 
esting pets. 

Some of these animals are very odd and have amus- 
ing habits and ways, while others are very intelligent, 
learn many tricks readily, and are just as desirable 
companions or pets as dogs, cats, or rabbits. Carniv- 
orous animals are found in nearly every country, and a 
great many of them are natives of America. 

One of the most common and most readily domesti- 

82 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 83 

cated of American carnivorous animals is the raccoon. 
This well-known creature is found throughout the 
United States wherever there is forest growth and, al- 
though continually hunted and trapped, is so intelli- 
gent, so wary, and so well able to look out for himself 
that the species is still fairly numerous in nearly all 
parts of the country, even near cities or in thickly 
populated districts. "Coons," when taken fully grown, 
are, like most wild animals, very cross, irritable, and 
vicious in confinement, although with kind treatment 
and patience they may often be thoroughly domesti- 
cated. Young raccoons, when reared in confinement, 
are as gentle and docile as kittens, and learn to perform 
many amusing tricks, to come when called, and to 
follow their master about as readily as a well-broken 
dog. 

Raccoons make their homes in hollow trees, in old 
crows' or hawks' nests, or even among rocks, or at 
times in burrows in the earth. If you can locate a 
coon's nest in winter by following the tracks on the 
snow, it is comparatively easy to get the young ones 
in the spring, but otherwise it is a very difficult matter 
to find the home of one of these animals. If raccoons 
are abundant some local hunter or a farmer can usually 
procure young ones if well paid for them, and often- 
times they may be found in captivity and for sale at 
the dealers'. Several firms make a specialty of live 
wild animals and can always furnish many interesting 
and desirable pets. Coons are almost always carried 
in stock by these dealers and are far from expensive. 



84 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROHT 

Care and Housing 

Coons should be kept in large, stout, roomy cages 
until thoroughly tame and tractable. They are power- 
ful creatures for their size and will work steadily for 
hours at a time to pry apart loose wires or bars or to 
enlarge a small opening; hence care should be taken 
to have a cage that will withstand all their attempts 
to escape. Wood will not answer except for young 
raccoons, for a full-grown coon will chew and bite 
through a stout wooden bar or board in a very short 
time. Strong, coarse-meshed wire netting is the best 
material to use, and it should extend well into the 
ground if placed out-of-doors. Although raccoons do 
not burrow or dig naturally, they can excavate a hole 
rapidly and will dig under an ordinary fence or wall or 
beneath the netting of a cage unless it runs at least 
i8 inches below the surface. The top of the cage 
should be roofed over with netting and covered with a 
water-proof roof, and a scraggly tree or stump should 
be placed within the cage for the animals to climb on. 

If the cage is to serve as permanent quarters for the 
coons it should be at least 8 feet square and 6 feet 
high, but if merely intended as an enclosure for the 
animals until they are well grown it may be much 
smaller. 

Coons are very restless, curious, busy creatures and 
are incessantly investigating every crack and crevice 
or any new or strange object which they see, and this 
habit makes them very interesting and amusing. A 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 85 

bright-colored wooden ball will sometimes amuse one 
of these animals for days, and if a piece of corn or a 
bit of meat is placed in a deep bottle and given to the 
raccoon you will have no end of fun watching the 
little chap trying to extract it. 



Feeding 

Raccoons eat almost any sort of animal or vegetable 
food. They are very fond of green corn and "roasting 
ears," of many fruits, such as apples, peaches, pears, 
etc., of young birds or poultry, of eggs, and of any kind 
of fresh meat. They are extremely fond of insects of 
all kinds, of frogs, turtles, fish, and crabs, and will dig 
under rocks and fallen trees in their search for land- 
snails. 

Tame coons often equal any cat in their ability to 
capture rats and mice, but they are also sworn enemies 
of poultry; if you have a tame coon and keep chickens 
or ducks be sure that your pet cannot reach them or 
you will regret the day he came into your posses- 
sion. 

Raccoons have a habit of soaking their food in 
water and will even place opened oysters in water 
before eating them. So pronounced is this trait, that 
in Germany they are known as Washing-Bears, and 
their scientific name of Procyon lotor — meaning a 
"washer" — was earned by this odd trick. No one 
seems to know its cause. It is not due to a desire for 
cleanliness nor to soften the food, for coons have 



86 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

splendid, stout teeth, and such a tender object as an 
oyster cannot require softening. Probably it is an 
instinct which originated with the remote ancestors, 
who may have subsisted mainly on fish. They are 
fond of fish and can catch them adroitly. Their 
method is to sit or squat motionless beside a pool or 
pond, and when a fish appears to scoop him quickly 
from the water with a lightning-like sweep of the front 
foot. 

Pretty nearly anything and everything that tame 
coons will eat is good for them, but raw meat has a 
tendency to make them cross, and unless they have a 
great deal of exercise their coats will become poor; and 
if overfed they will become terribly fat. A healthy 
coon should be well rounded and plump but not a 
helpless ball of fur. 

Although raccoons are closely related to bears, their 
appearance and habits are very different. The mark- 
ings on a raccoon's face give him an odd, quizzical look, 
and the thumbs and forefeet are used almost like hands. 
A coon sitting on his haunches and examining some 
object held in his hand-like paws seems almost human, 
and there is no question but that they possess intelli- 
gence far above that of most animals. 

While our common raccoons are very interesting and 
attractive pets, some of their cousins are even more 
desirable. The tropical Crab-Eating Raccoons of 
South and Central America are somewhat smaller 
and thinner than our northern species, but are easily 
tamed and make just as good pets. 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 87 

The Raccoon-Fox 

Somewhat resembling the raccoon but with a form 
more Hke a fox, is the raccoon-bear, or raccoon-fox of 
our Southwestern States. This pretty httle animal is 
smaller than the raccoon, with a much slenderer and 
more graceful form. Its color is dun, or grayish-brown, 
with a black streak or collar on the neck, and the long, 
bushy tail is ringed with alternate stripes of black and 
white. 

In Mexico this animal is known as tepe-maxtla, or 
caca-mixtliy meaning Bushcat or Rushcat, and is a 
favorite pet of the natives, for it is companionable 
and gentle and keeps the houses free from rats, mice, 
and vermin. Although naturally a southern animal, 
it is found as far north as Oregon and Indiana, and 
specimens have even been taken in Ohio. In Cali- 
fornia it is quite common, and in the early days the 
gold-miners frequently kept the little creatures in cap- 
tivity. It is naturally a tree-dwelling animal and 
makes a moss-lined nest in a hollow tree or other 
cavity, often using some hole or crevice in the garret 
of a building or outhouse. As the raccoon-fox has a 
peculiar habit of gnawing the wood around its hole, its 
retreat can often be found by the chips lying on the 
ground beneath it. Not at all a timid animal, it fre- 
quently enters camps, buildings, or houses in search of 
food. It is very easily tamed and becomes so sociable 
and familiar that it seems more like a kitten than a 
wild animal and will play and frisk about, feed from 



88 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the hand, and follow its master. Even when captured 
fully grown, it soon becomes domesticated and docile 
and is altogether one of the best pets one can find. 

In its wild state the caca-mixtli feeds upon small 
birds, animals, and insects, but when tamed it will 
eat any kind of animal food and many kinds of vege- 
tables, as well as cake, fruit, eggs, and fish. 

It breeds readily in confinement and usually has four 
young in a litter. 

The Coati 

Another odd and interesting cousin of the raccoon 
is the coati, or tejon, of Mexico and South America. 
This animal is about the size of a raccoon, of a reddish- 
brown above, and yellow or orange below, and with a 
long, tapered, bushy tail, ornamented with alternate 
dark and light rings. The hind quarters are heavy 
and resemble those of a bear, the front feet are remark- 
ably flexible and hand-like. The most remarkable 
part of the coati's anatomy is the nose. This organ is 
greatly elongated and sensitive, and can be bent and 
twisted, extended, contracted, or made rigid, at will. 
There are two species of the coati, one found in Mexico 
and Central America, the other in South America, but 
they are very similar in habits and appearance. Un- 
like the raccoon, these creatures live together in troops 
or bands, although the old males often become solitary 
and live by themselves, a fact that has led many peo- 
ple to assume that there are several distinct species. 

The coati is very easily tamed and becomes intensely 




RACCOONS AND THEIR COUSINS. 

1. Coati. 2. Kinkajou. 3. Opossum. 4. Raccoon-Fox 



S- Ra 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 89 

affectionate and devoted to its home and master. It 
is the most interesting and amusing pet imaginable 
and keeps one constantly entertained by its antics. 
Probably no animal in the world is more inquisitive 
and its incessant investigation of everything in the 
vicinity continually involves it in difficulties. 

In all its actions the coati's nose is a matter of vast 
importance. With this wonderful organ it explores 
every nook, crevice, and cranny, smells of any object 
that arouses curiosity and, regardless of consequences, 
pokes it into anything and everything. This trait is 
really a nuisance if the creature is allowed to roam at 
large, for nothing is beyond its reach; it will climb, 
jump, or crawl into places that you would think im- 
possible of access. 

The coati is a born tease and if kept where there are 
dogs or cats it will worry them into a perfect frenzy. 
Moreover, the coati does not know what fear is and, 
instead of avoiding the anger of its victims, will stand 
its ground or rush blindly at the enraged cat or dog 
regardless of consequences. 

A coati kept in confinement some years ago was 
allowed perfect freedom at times and some of its ex- 
periences and actions were most amusing. Anything 
hollow would instantly excite its curiosity: the dinner 
bell was at once seized and turned over but was alto- 
gether too simple an affair for the busy creature to 
spend time on. A round sleigh-bell set it wild with 
excitement, but as it could not get either nose or paws 
inside and could make no impression with its teeth, it 



90 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

was soon abandoned. A tobacco-pouch and pipe soon 
aroused the curiosity of Miss Coati and, holding the 
first between her paws, she dug her nose into the con- 
tents and with wonderful rapidity rooted the tobacco 
about until every shred and fibre was separated; but 
finding nothing of further interest here she turned her 
attention to the pipe. Without the least hesitation 
she plunged her delicate nose into the bowl, but neither 
this nor the tobacco seemed to disconcert her in the 
least. She soon espied the cat, which, having just fin- 
ished a nap, was yawning and stretching herself. In- 
stantly the coati rose on her hind feet, threw her arms 
around the cat's neck, and plunged her tobacco-covered 
nose into the strange cavity presented by tabby's open 
mouth. The reception which this intrusion received 
was a great surprise and, with a most pained and grieved 
expression, she retreated into a corner of the room and, 
taking her nose in her paws, drew it between them, 
sneezing violently meanwhile. 

The lesson was soon forgotten, however. In a few 
moments she was busily engaged in satisfying her 
curiosity again. Climbing onto her master's lap she 
noticed the ticking of his watch, and the ever-useful 
snout was plunged into his vest pocket. Failing to 
extract the timepiece in this way, she dug excitedly 
with her feet and, finding this of no avail, placed her 
ears close to the sound and listened quaintly to the 
ticking. At last, quieting down, she dozed off to sleep 
in her owner's lap and he buried himself in a book. 
Suddenly, aroused from his reading by the sound of 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 91 

tearing paper, he looked up just in time to discover 
that the coati had quietly extracted a pocket diary and 
a five-dollar note from his pocket and was busily en- 
gaged in tearing the note into small shreds. 

To determine if the coati could drink from a deep, 
narrow vessel, a mug containing a little milk was 
given her. Instantly she turned the proboscis up to 
the forehead and licked the cup dry without even wet- 
ting her nose. Quite as easily the nose could be turned 
down until it actually pointed backward under the 
lower jaw, and if placed out-of-doors on the lawn or in 
the garden the creature would rapidly root and plough 
up the ground with her snout, using it exactly like a 
hog; and whenever a worm or insect was found the 
nose would be curved up over the forehead and the 
object seized and devoured greedily. Her tail was al- 
most as useful as her nose. If, when tied to a chair or 
table, an egg was placed on the floor beyond her reach, 
she would turn her tail toward the object, curve the 
tip into a hook and, holding the tail with her feet, 
would gently swing it around in a semicircle with the 
egg safely held in the curved tip until within reach of 
her paws. 

In a wild state, or in captivity, the coati will eat and 
drink almost anything. Birds, animals, fruits, insects, 
fish, eggs, reptiles, vegetables, sweets, grubs, worms, 
and, in fact, any edible material, is equally relished by 
it, and in extracting birds' eggs from holes and with- 
drawing insects from crevices in the bark the prehensile 
nose is used to great advantage. 



92 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

KiNKAJOUS 

Even more interesting is the strange creature known 
as the kinkajou of South America. This odd animal 
is also known as the potto, matilla, and fruit bear 
and is such a mass of contradictions and paradoxes as 
to be a sort of animal puzzle. Although classed among 
the carnivora, the teeth of the kinkajou are more like 
those of an herbivorous creature. Its hands have 
no opposed thumbs and the "fingers" are webbed for 
nearly their whole length; yet it uses these members 
for hands in a most dexterous manner. While the 
heels of the hind feet are well raised, it walks on the 
soles of the forefeet. It can feed itself equally well 
with either its front or hind feet and can even hold 
food in a hind foot and break it in bits and carry the 
pieces to its mouth with a front foot or vice versa. 
Its tail is prehensile and, with the tip coiled around a 
branch, the kinkajou can swing or hang head down- 
ward as well as any monkey. Its face is flat and cat- 
like, but the tongue is so long, flexible, and slender that 
with it the kinkajou scoops honey from the nests of 
wild bees or extracts ants from their nests. In fact, 
the kinkajou may be truthfully said to possess six hands, 
for either its feet, tail, or tongue can be used more 
skilfully than the hand-like feet of many other animals. 

When fully grown the kinkajou is a little larger 
than a good-sized cat and is light yellowish-brown or 
orange-yellow in color. The tail is long, round, and 
muscular, and both body and tail are covered with 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 93 

thick, soft, close, woolly fur. It is a tree-dwelling 
animal and spends most of its life high up in forest- 
trees, but can run nimbly on the ground and can 
descend a tree head first without the least trouble or 
climb up tail first with equal facility. It is chiefly 
nocturnal when wild but in captivity seems to be as 
lively and wide awake in the daytime as at night. A 
most wonderful contortionist, it can roll itself into a 
perfect ball with its tail coiled about its body or can 
turn itself into a spiral corkscrew without inconve- 
nience. Its food consists of ants, bees, insects, honey, 
fruit, birds and birds' eggs, small animals, snakes, 
lizards, etc., and when domesticated it will devour any- 
thing in the shape of fruit or meat. 

Although quite savage and courageous in its wild 
state, yet in captivity the kinkajou is most docile, 
gentle, and aflFectionate, even when captured fully 
grown. It is very intelligent and learns many amus- 
ing tricks. 

While living in Central America I had one of these 
odd creatures for a pet and found it most entertaining 
and interesting. The little chap was brought in by a 
native wood-cutter when about half grown and at 
once won my affection by clambering up onto my 
shoulders and curling its tail about my neck in a most 
lovable manner. It never showed any inclination to 
scratch, bite, or snap, and from the very first would 
eat from my hand or climb into my lap and sleep 
contentedly. It was always happy, bright, and good- 
natured, and although never tied up or confined it 



94 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

showed no desire to escape, even when perfectly free 
out-of-doors. It would sit on its haunches and beg 
for tidbits with a queer httle plaintive squeal but 
aside from this would never utter a sound. Any new or 
strange thing would at once attract its attention, but 
after the unusual object was investigated thoroughly 
it would excite no further interest. The facility with 
which it used all or any of its four feet, its tail, and 
tongue was most remarkable. Its favorite food was 
bananas, and if given one of these fruits, it would 
hold it in one front paw, peel the skin neatly with the 
other, and eat the fruit with dainty bites and evident 
relish. If before one fruit was consumed another was 
handed to the creature, it would hold this in its tail 
until the first banana was devoured and would then 
pass it to its paws in a coil of the tail. Sometimes the 
fruit would be held in the tail and peeled with one foot, 
and at other times in one hind foot, peeled with a front 
paw and broken in pieces and carried to the mouth 
with the other front foot. At other times the little 
fellow would hang by its tail, curl its head up on its 
breast, hold a fruit in its hind feet, break it apart, and 
carry it to its mouth with the front feet. It was very 
neat and clean, and invariably after eating would pick 
up all the parings, skins, or crumbs, would gather them 
in a neat pile, and poke them into some crevice out of 
sight. It was so adept with its tail and tongue that it 
was next to impossible to place things beyond its reach; 
smooth walls or high shelves it would scale with ap- 
parent ease if there was the least roughness or projec- 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 95 

tion which it could grasp with its sharp claws or its 
tail; and so powerful was the grasp of this latter mem- 
ber that I have seen the kinkajou coil it up, place it 
flat against a slightly rough board, and actually lift 
itself off the floor. Its climbing ability and curiosity 
proved fatal to our kinkajou in the end. It was placed 
in a large, roomy outhouse during the night. On a 
high shelf in this building a jar which contained some 
preserves had been left through the oversight of a ser- 
vant. The following morning the poor little kinkajou 
was found very sick and the jar of jam was scattered 
in a thousand pieces on the floor. Evidently the animal 
had pulled down and broken the jar and had eaten 
the jam containing pieces of the broken glass. Al- 
though we did everything possible to cure it we were 
unsuccessful. It died the same day. 

The Opossum 

In many parts of the United States the opossum is 
a very common animal and is much hunted for its 
flesh and skin. Opossums make very good pets and 
have many odd and interesting habits. They are 
easily captured and tamed, are gentle and docile, but 
unfortunately sleep during most of the daytime. 
Opossums feed mainly upon fruit and insects, but they 
will eat any kind of meat, eggs, birds, fish, or reptiles. 
Their ability in climbing and their strong, prehensile 
tails are interesting, and if a tree or some branches are 
placed in their cage they will exhibit their ability to 



96 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

climb and swing from place to place to great advantage. 
Several species of South American opossums carry their 
young hanging to the mother's tail as it is carried over 
the back, but our common species carries its babies in 
pockets or pouches on the abdomen. Some of the South 
American species are very small, scarcely larger than a 
mouse, while others are even larger than the northern 
species. One kind of opossum found in South America 
is known as the Water-Opossum, from the fact that it 
lives in the water most of the time. This queer animal 
swims, dives, and catches fish with the ease and ability 
of an otter or mink and makes its nest in holes in the 
banks of rivers or lakes. 

Although I have included opossums among the car- 
nivorous animals, they are very different from most 
other meat-eating creatures and belong in a group 
known as marsupials. This group includes all animals 
which carry their young in pouches, and among them 
are creatures which are strictly carnivorous, others 
which are herbivorous, and others which are insectiv- 
orous. All four-footed animals found in Australia, 
with the exception of the duckbill, echidna, and the 
' Wild Dog, or dingo, are marsupials. Among them are 
the kangaroos, koalas or native bears, wombats, bandi- 
coots, ant-eaters, Tasmanian devils, and other queer 
creatures. In Australia nearly all of these various 
animals are at times kept in captivity, and the smaller 
kangaroos, wombats, and koalas make good pets. A 
great many of the marsupials are nocturnal and are 
so sleepy in the day that they are not worth keeping 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 97 

as pets except in menageries or zoological gardens, but 
the kangaroos or wallabies and some other species are 
wide-awake and lively during the day. Kangaroos and 
other herbivorous marsupials are as easily kept as rab- 
bits or hares and feed mainly on hay, grass, and green 
vegetables, and many of them are very hardy and will 
stand quite cold weather. 

The Bear 

Among the other carnivorous animals which are kept 
as pets at times are bears, foxes, and prairie-wolves, 
or coyotes. Bears when young make very interesting 
pets and are easily raised. The following story of a 
boy and his tame bear will illustrate the habits of these 
animals in captivity: 

The Story of a Pet Bear 

Ned always had a fine time when he visited his 
grandfather, who lived in Maine near the edge of the 
forest, and when he was twelve years old he spent his 
summer vacation there. One day Ned noticed that 
some bees in the garden flew toward the woods instead 
of to the hives, and when he asked his grandfather the 
reason he was told that these were wild bees who had 
a "honey-tree" in the forest. Ned was greatly inter- 
ested, and his grandfather promised that they would 
look for the store of honey, explaining that they could 
find it by following the bees, which flew in a straight 
line. Soon after Ned started out with Dave, the hired 
man, to find the bee-tree. They found a hollow log 



98 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

among some rocks, and Ned thought this would be 
a fine place for the bees to hide honey. Dave knew it 
was not a bee-tree, but to please Ned he chopped into 
it. After a few good strokes the log split open, and 
out rolled a big ball of fur. It quickly unrolled and 
proved to be a baby bear that winked and blinked in a 
surprised, sleepy manner. 

The boys thought this find a great deal better than 
honey and, wrapping the cub in a coat, they hurried 
home as fast as they could for fear the old bear might 
find them. The little bear was given a cosey home 
in the wood-shed and a big bowl of bread and milk, 
which he ate greedily. Then he curled up and went 
fast asleep. The next day Ned found his pet, which 
he had named Bee, very contentedly washing his 
face in the remains of his supper. When he saw Ned 
he sat up on his haunches and held out his paws in a 
most friendly and confiding manner. He was full of 
life and play and rolled over and curled and uncurled 
himself, and Ned was sure that he could teach him 
interesting tricks. 

Every day Ned played with his pet and by the time 
his vacation was over the bear had learned to shake 
hands, to beg for a lump of sugar, to play dead at com- 
mand, and to turn somersaults. Ned was very anxious 
to take Bee back to Boston with him so that his 
friends could see him; but since his father would not 
consent to take a bear to the city, Ned was compelled 
to leave him in his grandfather's charge. 

Ned's friends were greatly interested in the stories 



CARNIVOROUS ANIMALS 99 

of the bear, and every one of his grandfather's letters 
was read and reread, for each was filled with glowing 
accounts of Bee's antics. One day in November came 
the startling news that Bee had disappeared. Grandpa 
had gone to town for the day and had forgotten to 
fasten the door of the wood^shed, and the next morning 
the bear was missing. The woods were searched and 
all likely hiding-places were examined, but no trace of ■ 
Bee could be found. Ned's grandfather felt very 
badly over the loss and so, of course, did Ned. All 
winter he and the boys talked about the matter and 
hoped that the following year he might find another 
bear. 

Early in April Ned had another letter from his 
grandfather, and when he read it he danced and 
shouted, for, wonder of wonders. Bee had been found ! 

It seemed that Dave had gone to the sugar-camp, 
about half a mile from the house, to get the log house 
ready for the sugar boiling. He found the camp half 
full of drifted leaves, and when raking them out behind 
a big sugar-kettle he discovered Bee, all curled up 
snug and warm, enjoying his long winter nap. Dave, 
greatly surprised, tied Bee securely without waking 
him, covered him with the leaves, and left him. 

When sugar making began a few weeks later Bee 
was wide-awake and hungry, but he knew Dave and 
followed him readily to his old quarters. When Ned 
arrived on his vacation he hardly knew his pet; he had 
grown into such a big, {Powerful bear that he had to 
be tied out-of-doors in the barnyard; but he was still 



lOO PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

good-natured and Ned was soon on the best of terms 
with him again. 

Nevertheless, Bee was so big and clumsy and so 
rough in play that grandpa was afraid Ned would get 
hurt and suggested that he should sell him to a circus 
which was coming to a near-by town. At first Ned was 
unwilling to listen to this, but he realized that Bee was 
really too big to manage and finally consented. The 
animal trainer visited the farm, saw Bee, and was very 
glad to get such a gentle, well-trained bear. Several 
times afterward, when the circus visited Boston, Ned 
saw his old pet. 

Foxes and Wolves 

Unlike bears, foxes and wolves are seldom very 
docile in captivity. Once in a while a really tame fox 
or wolf may be found, but as a rule they are snappish, 
treacherous creatures and can hardly be recommended 
as pets. Wolves are far more likely to become really 
tame than foxes and prairie-wolves or coyotes. They 
are often very affectionate and tractable in captivity. 
In order to domesticate any of these creatures they 
must be taken when very young and reared by hand. 
They are not particularly interesting, not half as in- 
telligent as a good dog, and have no particular habits 
or characters which make it worth while keeping them 
as pets, especially in view of the time and trouble neces- 
sary to rear them successfully. 



CHAPTER VIII 

DOGS 

History and Varieties 

FROM the very earliest times dogs have been 
kept as pets and companions by man. So 
ancient is the dog that the most exacting scien- 
tific research has failed to trace his origin; the best 
authorities are undecided as to whether the original 
dog was merely a domesticated wolf or some other dog- 
like creature now extinct. 

Whatever his original ancestor may have been, the 
vast length of time in which dogs have been kept by 
man is attested by the fact that dogs are found in 
every portion of the world where mankind lives, ex- 
cept in a few oceanic islands, and by the wonderful 
varieties of form, size, and characteristics found in the 
species. It seems scarcely credible that the tiny toy 
spaniel or Pomeranian, the great mastiff and Saint 
Bernard, the thin and graceful greyhound, the bandy- 
legged bulldog, the collie, and the numerous other 
breeds all came from a common ancestor, yet this is 
undoubtedly the case. 

In the dog, man has always found a faithful friend 
and companion, a trusty guardian, and a useful and 
wiUing servant. Long before he learned to cultivate 



I02 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the earth his dogs helped him to hunt wild animals for 
food, and even to-day hounds and hunting-dogs are 
indispensable aids in hunting many kinds of game. 
When man gathered flocks and herds the dog helped 
to watch and guard them. When danger threatened 
he warned his master, and his courage and strength 
were of untold value in battling with the ferocious 
wild creatures of the forest and jungle. In many lands 
and among many races the dog has been used as a 
beast of burden or to draw sledges across frozen 
wastes. Still other races use his flesh as an article of 
diet. 

Through untold centuries he has developed in accor- 
dance with his surroundings and his mode of life, so 
that each race or people has gradually acquired dogs 
best adapted to their needs. But with the progress of 
civilization and the increase of commerce and intercom- 
munication among distant peoples, the various types 
have been carried hither and thither, their original uses 
lost sight of, and new varieties produced by the mix- 
ture of breeds, until to-day there are a vast number of 
breeds, some useful, some ornamental, and some valued 
merely for their useless ugliness. 

Care and Housing 

To describe all the recognized varieties of dogs 
would require a special volume, and every pet lover 
who is interested in a special breed should consult a 
special treatise. 



DOGS 103 

But no matter what breed of dog is kept or for what 
purpose, the care, management, food, training, and 
diseases are practically identical and, with slight varia- 
tions according to the diflPerences in sizes and habits 
of different varieties, the same directions will apply to 
all. Most dogs, and especially pet dogs, are given far 
too little proper attention or care in some ways and 
far too much in others. It is no kindness to feed a 
dog on every tidbit and morsel that he desires or to 
feed him too much or too often. Meals should be 
regular and at stated times, and a limited amount of 
food should be given. Washing and combing are all 
very well and serve to keep a dog clean, healthy, and 
in good condition, but there is no excuse for pampering, 
constant fondling, dressing up in clothing, and other 
ridiculous customs. 

Dogs may be roughly divided into two general 
classes: those kept in the house, such as the lap-dogs, 
toy dogs, pet dogs, etc., and those kept in kennels out- 
of-doors. Although many large watch-dogs and hunt- 
ing-dogs are regularly kept in the house, this method 
is by no means to be recommended, for it does not 
induce the best health and condition. 

Wherever possible it is advisable to keep large dogs 
out-of-doors, but if a yard cannot be enclosed so that 
they can exercise freely or if regular daily exercise is 
not given them they should not be subjected to the 
cramped quarters of a kennel. It is absolutely cruel 
to chain a dog to a tiny, draughty, exposed box or 
kennel, day in and day out, and if you cannot give 



I04 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

your dog proper exercise or keep it indoors you should 
not keep it at all. 

Kennels may be of any size, from a tiny hut or box 
just large enough to accommodate the dog, to large, 
expensive affairs with several rooms or compartments, 
such as are used for packs of hounds. The principal 
points to be looked after in providing a kennel are: a 
sheltered, warm situation that Is shady in summer and 
protected from storms and winds in winter; good ven- 
tilation; a tight, weather-proof roof; good drainage, a 
warm, clean bed, and general cleanliness. Most dogs 
are very neat and clean in their habits, but if kept 
chained to a kennel or in a small space they are of 
necessity compelled to muss up their surroundings, 
and become dirty, foul-smelling, and diseased. 

An enclosure for dogs may be built of wire netting 
or any form of fence, but where a real enclosed yard 
or court cannot be provided, the animals may be given 
ample opportunity to exercise by fastening them to a 
ring about a long rope or wire stretched between 
supports. In this way the dog can run back and forth 
the length of the wire and can move to either side for 
the radius of his leash, and yet he cannot become 
tangled up as he often will when chained or tied to a 
stake or post. 

Feeding 

In feeding dogs, regularity is an important matter; 
most dogs should be fed twice a day, and from one 
twelfth to one twentieth of their own weight should be 



DOGS 105 

ample for a day's feeding; although the exact amount 
will vary according to the size, age, and breed, and with 
the amount of exercise or work the dog has. Although 
dogs are naturally carnivorous or meat-eating animals, 
yet in their domesticated state they will generally live 
in perfect health when fed exclusively on a vegetable 
diet. Nevertheless, a mixed diet is preferable in most 
cases, and some dogs will not thrive unless given a great 
deal of meat. Sweetmeats, candy, pastry, cake, and 
similar things should not be given or, if fed at all, 
should be in very limited quantities. 

Nine tenths of the common ailments of dogs are 
digestive troubles, and much of this can be avoided 
by judicious feeding. Cooked meat, table meat, scraps 
and dog-biscuit, or similar vegetable food — except 
potatoes — will form a good diet for many dogs, and the 
larger kinds, expecially those which have plenty of 
exercise, should be given quite a little meat and should 
be provided with large bones to gnaw on. Dogs re- 
quire a certain amount of lime, and the bones furnish 
this in a better form than any other kind of food; but 
care should be taken not to feed small, thin, or splin- 
tered bones. Many house-dogs, especially the long- 
haired breeds, have a very disagreeable odor if fed on 
meat to any extent, and in such cases the diet should 
be mainly of a vegetable character, with an occasional 
bone. Milk is very good for small dogs and for pup- 
pies, and most dogs are quite fond of it. 

While many people consider milk the best possible 
food for puppies — and it is an excellent food — yet a 



io6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

mixed diet is just as good; and after they are three or 
four months old they may be fed like grown dogs, 
except that they should be fed oftener — three times a 
day until six months old — and after that twice a day. 
When milk is fed it may be thickened by boiling oat- 
meal, wheat flour, or both in the milk; or biscuits, 
bread, or dog-biscuit may be added to it; but with this 
diet no meat is required, although bones should be 
given to gnaw on. The great objection to milk is the 
cost and the fact that it does not keep well, and for 
these reasons a varied diet of cheaper and more last- 
ing foods is desirable. Indian meal and oatmeal are 
excellent dog foods, especially for young dogs. The 
Indian or corn meal must be mixed with water or 
broth when cold, and then boiled for half an hour 
at least. Oatmeal may be mixed with it, or the latter 
may be used by itself, thoroughly cooked, in the form 
of a thick mush. Many dogs will not eat clear oat- 
meal or corn-meal mush but will devour it readily 
if it is mixed with meat broth, or if meat scraps are 
boiled in it. 

It is best to boil meat on the bones for several hours, 
until thoroughly cooked and readily removed from 
the bone. The flesh may then be mixed with other 
foods, and the broth or soup used in making mush or 
for soaking biscuit. In addition to the mush and meat, 
dogs should be fed a good quantity of fresh, green 
vegetables. Cabbage, turnips, carrots, etc., boiled and 
mixed with the broth, are excellent, and most dogs 
will eat such things readily. It must be remembered 



DOGS 107 

that the food a dog will, or will not, relish depends a 
great deal upon the character of the food that was fed 
to him when young. Puppies brought up on a vege- 
tarian diet will take readily to vegetables when full 
grown, but if reared on a diet of animal matter they 
will usually refuse to eat vegetable food unless very 
hungry. 

It is a mistake to compel dogs to exercise soon after 
eating; a far better practice is to give them plenty of 
exercise before meals and let them rest a while after- 
ward. Wild, carnivorous animals have to hunt and 
chase their prey before they can eat, and after feeding 
they invariably lie down and sleep for some time, and 
although dogs are no longer wild, their anatomy and 
internal organs and digestive arrangements are the 
same as in other carnivorous animals, and the nearer 
they can approach a natural condition the better. 

Training • 

A very important matter in raising or keeping dogs 
is to insist on obedience. Every dog should be taught 
to learn its name, to follow at heel, to lie down, or, in 
fact, to follow out any ordinary command without hesi- 
tation. Some dogs are far easier to teach than others; 
but it is no kindness to the dog and a nuisance to the 
owner and others to allow a dog to disobey. Never 
allow a dog to disobey purposely without correcting 
him. If it learns that your orders may be disregarded 
without fear of the consequences, it will fail you at 



io8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

some critical time or will be absolutely unreliable. It 
is not necessary to flog, beat, or abuse a dog to compel 
obedience; it may be forced to obey by being seized 
and made to go through the desired motions and then 
by being rewarded; or it may be punished by switching 
lightly with a small switch or whip. The moral effect of 
the whip is of far greater value than the pain inflicted; a 
cringing dog always indicates an abusive master, and a 
heavy blow will not make it obey any better or quicker 
than a mere touch. As a rule, patience and kindness 
are of far more value in training than the use of a 
whip, especially with young dogs, and rewards for 
obedience will usually accomplish far more than 
punishment for disobedience. A dog reared from a 
puppy may be easily trained, but dogs that have been 
allowed to have their own way or whose training has 
been neglected will seldom learn to obey their master 
without the use of some forcible method. 



Cleanliness 

Dogs should always be kept clean, for their own and 
for their master's sake. Both long-haired dogs and 
short-haired dogs should be thoroughly washed at 
least once a week; and if washing is begun when the 
animals are quite young they will learn to enjoy it, 
but old dogs not accustomed to it frequently object. 
The coat should be well soaked in tepid or warm water, 
scrubbed well with some good dog soap, thoroughly 
rinsed, and rubbed partly dry. The dog should then 



DOGS 109 

be tied in a sunny, dry spot, on a wooden or clean floor, 
and allowed to shake and rub himself. As soon as the 
hair is dried through, it should be combed and brushed 
with a coarse, smooth-toothed comb and a stiff brush. 
One often sees valuable, blooded dogs, apparently 
well cared for, whose skin beneath the hair is quite 
rough and brown and covered with dust and scurf. 
This should never happen; the skin should be kept 
clean, soft, and pink. One great objection most peo- 
ple have to house-dogs is that they are often troubled 
with fleas; but if a dog is kept thoroughly clean by 
frequent washing there will be little trouble on this 
score. A dirty dog affords a fine harbor for fleas, but 
a clean, well-washed dog has but little attraction for 
them. 

It is just as important to keep the box or kennel 
clean as the dog itself. It is of little use to wash and 
comb a dog and then tie it to a dirty kennel, with 
soft earth around it, or to make it sleep in a bed of 
mussed and dirty straw. Kennels and boxes that are 
neglected are splendid hiding-places for vermin, and 
all such shelters should be washed and disinfected fre- 
quently, and the walls should be whitewashed inside 
and out at least twice a year. 



D 



ISEASES 



Dogs are subject to a very great number of diseases, 
and it is always the best plan to call in a veterinary 
surgeon if the dog shows signs of any serious trouble. 



no PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Ordinary digestive troubles may be remedied by giving 
a little castor-oil, or the dog may use nature's cures and 
eat certain kinds of grass and weeds. Although it is 
not advisable for the amateur to attempt to cure dog 
diseases without the aid or advice of a practised veter- 
inary, yet at times it is essential to know what the 
trouble is, what causes and cures it; and, for this reason, 
a number of the more common diseases with condensed 
directions for their treatment follow: 

Fevers. — Dogs suffer from many forms of low fevers, 
or "distempers." These may often commence with 
the symptoms of a common cold or with inflammation 
of the lungs or bowels, which taken in time may be 
readily cured, but which if neglected may develop into 
a serious or fatal illness. Nevertheless, it is not neces- 
sary to assume that every cold or inflammatory symp- 
tom will result in distemper; the creature may sufi^er 
from a simple cold, from indigestion, or from some 
other trivial complaint. Fevers are divided into four 
or five varieties or diseases, as follows: 

Simple Ephemeral Fever. — This disease, commonly 
known as a "cold," is caused by exposure to dampness 
or cold draughts. The best remedy is a complete rest, 
an even temperature, and a mild physic. Give soft, 
easily digested food, and if no improvement results 
call a veterinary. 

Simple Epidemic Fever, or Influenza. — This disease 
at first closely resembles a cold, but a cough is almost 
always present and the eyes and nose run badly. It 
is apparently a contagious disease which cannot well 



DOGS 1 1 1 

be prevented, though far more Hkely to affect dogs 
that are badly cared for or have a cold than well- 
tended, healthy animals. The first treatment should 
be the same as for a cold, but a doctor should be called 
in to administer proper medicines. Care should be 
used during convalescence not to allow the dog to 
exercise too violently and not to overfeed him. 

Typhus Fever y or "Distemper." — The symptoms of 
this disease vary greatly, but unmistakable evidences 
are a low fever with great prostration of strength, rapid 
emaciation, shivering, quick pulse, hurried breathing, 
loss of appetite, and decreased secretions. Usually the 
first symptoms noticed are general dulness and loss of 
appetite. In a day or two a husky cough may develop 
— especially after running — accompanied by a sneeze. 
These symptoms are also apparent in cold and influenza, 
but an almost infallible sign of distemper is in the rapid 
loss of flesh — a well-fed, plump dog often becoming a 
mere gaunt, emaciated, living skeleton within three or 
four days. Usually, also, the whites of the eyes are 
bluish-red and a small drop of mucus gathers in the 
corner. Both eyes and nose become clogged with a 
brown discharge and the teeth turn dark as the dis- 
ease advances. A severe attack may cause death in 
three to five weeks or less, and at the first symptoms 
a good veterinary should be consulted. In severe cases 
many dogs are saved even when apparently dying, and 
hope should not be given up as long as any life remains. 
When a dog is afflicted with distemper great care should 
be used in feeding. Little or no food is required for 



112 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the first four or five days. A little weak broth or gruel 
and no solid food of any sort should be given from the 
time the dog is first taken sick until it has completely 
recovered. When exhaustion comes on strong beef 
tea may be given every three or four hours, and the dog 
should be forced to swallow it. Port wine thickened 
with arrowroot and alternated with the beef tea is a 
good and safe stimulant. No exercise of any sort 
should be permitted, as the muscular exertion increases 
the fever and exhausts what little strength is left. It 
is a great mistake to give dogs suffering with dis- 
temper a "breath of fresh air" by taking them for 
a walk. Good ventilation, absolute rest and quiet, 
and the greatest care and attention are essential to a 
cure. 

Rheumatic Fever. — This is a very common disease of 
the dog. It is due to almost constant exposure to 
dampness and cold — especially to dampness of the 
kennel. Dogs that are allowed to lie and rest in warm 
living-rooms or before an open fire and are then placed 
out overnight in a poorly protected kennel are also 
apt to suffer from rheumatism. The symptoms are a 
fever, with shivering and dulness and a shrinking away 
or cringing, or even yelps as of pain when approached 
or touched. As a rule, the afflicted dog retires to a 
corner and dislikes to come out, or if drawn away 
snarls and snaps. Rheumatic troubles also show their 
presence by stiffness and soreness or dragging of the 
hind legs or inability to jump or run. 

A hot bath will often help in rheumatism if the dog 



DOGS 113 

is dried before a fire or heater and rubbed briskly with 
a good liniment. The food should be light and mainly 
of vegetables, and a little nitre and water, a few drops 
of camphor, and cod-liver oil are all excellent. The 
most important matter is to keep the dog warm, dry, 
and away from draughts and sudden changes of tem- 
perature. 

Inflammation. — A great many of the common dog 
diseases are due to inflammation. Inflammation may 
be external and visible and characterized by intense 
heat, swelling, pain, or redness, or it may be internal 
and difficult to locate. It may be acute and develop 
very rapidly or it may be slow and chronic. In an 
acute form there is always an increase in the heart 
action and pulse beats. In a healthy dog the pulse 
should be from 90 to lOO per minute and may be felt 
on the inside of the front leg above the knee or by 
placing the hand against the lower part of the chest; 
but the pulse of dogs varies more than in man and 
varies more or less according to the breed of dog, so 
that a considerable increase or decrease in the pulse 
need not be accepted as an infallible sign of either in- 
flammation or fever unless accompanied by other 
symptoms, or unless you are familiar with the normal 
pulse of the dog. 

Hydrophobia^ also Known as Rabies and Madness. — 
This is probably the most serious dog disease. The 
symptoms of this terrible affliction are a sudden and 
decided change of temper — a naturally gentle dog be- 
coming morose, vicious, or shrinking. These peculiar 



114 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

symptoms are usually manifested several days before 
the attack becomes acute and are followed by a de- 
lirious watching of imaginary objects, snapping at in- 
visible enemies or at the wall, or tearing any object to 
pieces without reason. Other symptoms are constant 
watchfulness, oftentimes a peculiar howl, and an in- 
tense thirst. At times dogs are affected by rabies of 
a sort known as "dumb madness," during which there 
is no sound uttered and no water is touched; but 
neither thirst nor its absence is indication of hydro- 
phobia. We often hear of the presence of "froth" 
at the mouth as an indication of this disease, and while 
rabies is invariably accompanied by a discharge of 
saliva, yet the apparent froth is far less than that pro- 
duced by ordinary nausea or epilepsy, and many a 
poor dog suffering from an attack of indigestion or 
from some simple fever has been put to death under 
the impression that it was mad. Moreover, the frothy 
condition lasts but a few hours, seldom more than 
twelve, and is usually more apparent in dogs recovering 
from or developing fits than when suffering from rabies. 
Fits are often mistaken for hydrophobia, and as fits 
are usually accompanied by copious froth the popular 
idea has become prevalent. 

If a dog fights and claws at the corners of its mouth 
with its paws it is a pretty sure symptom of madness, 
and if after a time it loses its balance and falls over 
there can be no mistake, and the dog should at once 
be killed. It is criminally dangerous to allow a dog 
suspected of having rabies to go at large, and as soon 



DOGS 115 

as there is certainty of the presence of the malady the 
animal should be destroyed, for there is no known cure 
and a single bite may destroy human life with untold 
agony and suffering. Never attempt to approach, 
handle, or caress a dog which shows any symptoms of 
madness; secure it at once and keep all people and 
other living things safely out of reach of its jaws. A 
mad dog will seldom attack either man or beast unless 
molested, but will blindly bite or snap at any obstruc- 
tion or living thing in its path. It knows no fear of 
anything. When affected with rabies a dog travels 
at a long trot, without the least deviation to right or 
left unless compelled to alter its path by insurmount- 
able obstacles. 

If a dog is bitten by another which is affected or 
which is suspected of being affected with madness, it 
should be isolated, secured, and constantly watched. 
The time which elapses between the bite and the de- 
velopment of the disease is from three weeks to six 
months, but if at the end of three months no symptoms 
develop, the animal may be considered fairly safe 
from an attack. 

Inflammation of the Eyes, or Ophthalmia. — This is a 
very common trouble with dogs, especially if suffering 
from distemper. It may be recognized by a red or 
bluish-red color of the whites of the eyes, swollen lids, 
and a watery discharge. Purgatives, low diet, and 
sometimes bleeding, with local applications of eye- 
washes, are the'best treatment, but if the case is severe 
a competent veterinary should be consulted. 



Il6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Canker of the Ear. — This is usually due to high feed- 
ing and exposure to weather which causes an inflamma- 
tion of the skin lining the ears. The s3^mptoms are 
the constant shaking of the head and scratching at the 
ears, and if not attended to the increased irritation and 
spread of the disease causes an ulceration of the tip 
of the ear, especially in dogs with hanging or pendulous 
ears. The apparent trouble being at the end of the 
ear often causes owners to assume that this is the source 
of the disease, whereas in reality the trouble is located 
in the passage or opening of the ear. If a dog is seen 
shaking its head or scratching frequently at its ears 
the organs should be examined at once. If the lining 
is red or inflamed it is a sure indication of canker, even 
if there are no external evidences or ulcerations. On 
the other hand, an ulcer or incrustation at the tips of 
the ears does not prove the presence of canker, for 
such conditions may be produced by injuries, thorns, 
or irritation from brambles, burrs, etc. The treat- 
ment for canker is to administer purgatives and elimi- 
nate all animal matter from the food. A nitrate-of- 
silver or boracic-acid wash and zmc ointment should 
be used, by dropping the wash and ointment (the latter 
melted) into the ear alternately, every second or third 
day, at the same time treating any external ulcerations 
or incrustations with some healing antiseptic. If the 
attack is serious or of long standing, a doctor should 
be summoned, for there ma}^ be abscesses to be lanced 
or other treatment required. In handling a dog with 
canker it should be muzzled, and when applying the 



DOGS 117 

ointment and washes the head should be held on a 
table or other flat object for several minutes, to allow 
the fluid to penetrate the canals of the ear. 

Other Common Diseases. — Dogs are subject to laryn- 
gitis, asthma, inflammation of the lungs, pleurisy, 
pneumonia, consumption, gastritis, inflammation of 
the liver, inflammation of the bowels, dropsy, palsy, 
fits, worms, rickets, epilepsy, and mange. In all cases 
of serious disease a specialist should be consulted, for 
it is very seldom that an amateur can cope successfully 
with any severe ailment. The first thing to be done 
in nearly every case is to reduce the diet, especially the 
quantity of meat, to use local applications, keep the 
animal quiet and in a protected place, and avoid han- 
dling or contact; for many diseases are contagious and 
may be transmitted to human beings. Mange is at 
times very troublesome, and as there are several forms 
requiring very difi^erent treatments, every dog owner 
or fancier should be provided with standard mange 
cures and should follow the directions given. Although 
the array of dog diseases may seem formidable, yet 
with good care, proper feeding, and cleanliness there is 
comparatively little danger of pet dogs being seriously 
sick. 



CHAPTER IX 

CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 

Domestic Cats 

CATS are the commonest of all pets, and yet 
scarcely one cat in a hundred is properly cared 
for or fed. Cats are tough, hardy, self-reliant 
creatures, and will stand a vast amount of ill treatment 
and abuse without inconvenience. The old saying 
that a cat has nine lives may be exaggerated, but it 
serves to illustrate the fact that cats are exceedingly 
tenacious of life. Merely because cats will thrive under 
adverse conditions is no reason why they should be 
compelled to do so, however, and any one who keeps 
a cat should have interest enough in the creature to 
care for and feed it properly. 

It is cruel and inhuman to keep a cat which is al- 
lowed to roam about at will during the night. If you 
keep a cat at home after dark, it will be just as con- 
tented, and your neighbors will thank you. 

Very few people realize the amount of irreparable 
damage that cats do to our native birds. Well-kept 
house cats which are not allowed to roam at large 
seldom do any damage, and cats in cities destroy En- 
glish sparrows, mainly, and are a benefit in this respect. 

ii8 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 119 

In the suburbs or the country, however, cats are ex- 
ceedingly destructive to bird life, and should either be 
kept within bounds or else muzzled. A bell tied to 
its neck will prevent a cat from approaching birds 
without their knowledge, but even this does not wholly 
prevent the destruction among the more common and 
trusting species of birds. 

Many cats become semi-wild and take to the woods, 
where they subsist almost wholly on birds; and many 
people who rave against wearing birds' feathers on 
hats, or who consider robbing a bird's nest a terrible 
crime, will allow their cats to roam about and destroy 
hundreds of beautiful and useful song-birds. One cat 
will destroy more birds in a single season than all the 
boys of the neighborhood would destroy in years, even 
if they all collected birds' eggs; for the cats destroy 
old and young birds alike and find setting birds far 
easier to capture than others. Nature created a natural 
hunting instinct in cats, and if left to their own devices, 
they cannot be blamed for killing birds for a living; 
the ones to blame are the people who afford the cats 
an opportunity to hunt. 

Do not have a cat unless you intend to keep it 
permanently, or unless you can dispose of it when 
you are done with it. It is more humane to kill a 
cat in a merciful manner than to turn it loose. Some 
people are fond of cats and others detest them; it is 
a matter of personal taste and a question of individual 
preference, and if you like cats and are willing to give 
them proper care and food, there is no reason why 



I20 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

you should not have them, but there is no more reason 
for neglecting them or allowing them to be at large 
than would be the case with any other wild animal in 
your charge. 

A practice which cannot be too strongly condemned 
is that of keeping cats during the summer at a seaside 
or country house and leaving them behind when the 
family returns to the city for the winter. 

Care and Housing 

If you keep a number of cats or breed them, they 
should have a special building and yard. The building 
should be well ventilated and warmed in cold weather. 
It should be protected from draughts and dampness, 
and, if possible, should have a southern exposure, for 
cats love sunshine. The yard should be connected 
with the house or building and should be made of 
wire netting and roofed for protection. Both yard 
and building should have a good floor of stone, tile, or 
concrete, although a hard earth floor will answer for 
the yard. Such floors, if sprinkled with disinfectant 
and cleaned every few days, will be free from odor and 
vermin. The best disinfectant is oil of eucalyptus; 
many other compounds are injurious to cats. Sleep- 
ing quarters should be provided, and these may be 
made from old cheese boxes filled with fine oat straw, 
with a bottom layer of sawdust sprinkled with euca- 
lyptus oil. The straw and sawdust should be de- 
stroyed and renewed every week. Shallow tins or 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 121 

boxes of dry earth, ashes, or sand should be placed in 
the building, and these should be emptied every day. 
Dishes of fresh, clean water should be provided and 
should be refilled and cleaned each day. 

If there are only one or two cats they may, of course, 
be kept indoors most of the time, but cats require out- 
door air and exercise, and it is necessary to let them 
out each day if they are to remain in good health. 
Instead of turning them out loose it is far better to 
provide them with a small run enclosed with wire 
netting and roofed over in which to exercise. Such 
a run is inexpensive and will soon repay you for the 
trouble and cost. If your cat is kept in the run when 
out-of-doors it will not fight with other cats, there is 
no chance for it to contract disease or vermin or to 
be stolen or killed. Moreover, your neighbors will 
not be troubled by the cat scratching up their gardens 
or prowling about their yards and, finally, you will 
always be able to find your pet when you want it. 

Well fed and properly cared for, cats should look 
sleek and glossy, and to keep their fur in good condi- 
tion they should be combed and brushed daily. This 
is particularly important with long-haired cats, and 
you should brush them regularly each day with a stiff 
hair-brush. It is not necessary to wash cats, and most 
felines resent this operation strongly. If your cat 
takes kindly to a bath it will do it no harm, but the 
fur can be kept just as clean with much less trouble 
by rubbing in fine flour or Indian meal and then brush- 
ing it out thoroughly. 



122 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Feeding 

Many people keep cats for the purpose of catching 
mice and rats. It is a common idea that cats will not 
be good hunters if they are well fed, but this is a great 
mistake. As a rule, the best-fed cats are the best 
hunters. A half-starved, listless, or weak cat has no 
ambition to hunt, whereas a well-fed, active cat has. 
Cats seldom hunt for food; they merely follow their 
natural instincts and catch mice, birds, and other 
creatures for the satisfaction of killing. 

Regular feeding is as important for a cat as for any 
other pet. Twice a day for regular meals, with a 
light midday meal, is sufficient for a full-grown cat. 
For breakfast use bread and milk, not wet, but squeezed 
fairly dry, or dry bread moistened until soft with gravy 
or soup, or potatoes mixed up with milk or gravy; for 
the midday meal, boiled milk or bread and milk; for 
the final meal, table scraps mixed with boiled potatoes, 
or bread and milk, fish heads, or meat. Fish heads 
and meat scraps boiled with rice are also good. Oat- 
meal porridge boiled with milk and flavored with fish 
scraps or minced beef is excellent in cold weather but 
should be given sparingly at other times, as it is very 
heating. Always give boiled milk and never give fine, 
sharp fish-bones or sharp, broken chicken bones. 
Many people feed their cats entirely on raw meat or 
on steaks and chops. Steaks and chops are all very 
well for human beings, but they do not have as much 
nutritive value as tougher and cheaper meat, and it is 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 123 

a shameful waste of money and good material to feed 
cats or other animals expensive cuts of meat. Such 
things are not a whit better nor, in fact, as good as 
cheap meat and are not appreciated by the pets. 
Meat in limited quantities is good for cats, but if given 
as a principal article of diet the creatures will become 
wild and cross and far more subject to disease and 
parasites than when fed on a mixed diet of which 
animal matter forms a very small part. 

Kittens, when first weaned, should be fed three or 
four times a day on porridge and bread and milk, with 
a little minced meat. Milk should always be boiled. 
Raw milk is likely to induce worms, and more cats die 
from these parasites than from any other single cause. 
Leave the kittens for six or seven weeks with their 
mother and never attempt to raise all the kittens in 
a litter unless you have a foster-mother to whom you 
can give some of them. 

In taking away the kittens from their mother, take 
one at a time, at intervals of a day or two. They 
may be drowned by placing them in a tin box with 
holes in it and setting it in a pail of water with a weight 
on top to keep it beneath the surface, or they may be 
chloroformed. 

Cats, if well cared for and properly fed, will live for 
many years, and instances are known of cats living a 
healthy, contented Hfe for over twenty years in one 
family. 



124 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Breeds of Cats 

The majority of domestic cats are of mixed or mon- 
grel breed. It is seldom that one sees a pure-blooded 
cat outside of exhibitions or fanciers' collections. Al- 
though there is such a great variety of colors, markings, 
and other characteristics among common cats, the 
recognized breeds are comparatively few, and most of 
these are far prettier and more attractive than ordinary 
mongrel house cats. If you wish a cat for a pet try 
to get one of some recognized breed. Such cats are 
often very cheap, especially if they are slightly off 
color or form, and hence unfit for prize competi- 
tions. 

All cats may be divided into two general classes — 
Long-Haired Cats and Short-Haired Cats. To the 
former belong the various Angora or Persian varieties, 
to the latter the numerous common cats which form 
the bulk of domestic felines. 

Long-Haired Cats may be self-colored, broken- 
colored, or other colored. The self-colors are black, 
white, blue, or orange. 

Pure white Persian Cats are very beautiful but very 
difficult to keep in fine condition. A pure-bred white 
Persian should have blue eyes, but the eyes are fre- 
quently odd — one being blue and the other green or 
yellow — and these white Long-Haired Cats are fre- 
quently deaf. The black Persians may have either 
green or orange eyes, and there should not be a spot 
of white upon them, although a little white star on the 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 125 

breast or white feet often add to their beauty. The 
orange or cream Persians are quite rare, and the females 
are much more scarce than the males. Both varieties 
should have hazel or brown eyes, and the two extremes 
of deep orange and palest cream — although considered 
distinct breeds — grade from one into the other. Blues 
are really gray, or Maltese, and are very attractive 
when pure, but nine out of ten are more properly gray 
or drab than true "blue." Smokes are a mixture of 
blue, black, and white, and are very hard to breed. 
Frequently a fine "smoke "-colored cat will look like 
a very poor black after the hair has been shed. 

Silvers or "chinchillas" are also difficult to breed 
true, for they have a tendency to become spotted or 
irregularly colored, whereas a true silver should be so 
evenly shaded that the fur looks like that of a real 
chinchilla. 

Tortoise-Shell Angoras are very beautiful but rare, 
and it is seldom indeed that a tortoise-shell tom is seen. 
Brown tabbies also occur among the Long-Haired Cats, 
and when well marked, with tawny orange and black 
and of a large size, they resemble miniature long-haired 
tigers. 

In the Short-Haired Cats we find the blacks with the 
orange or green eyes; the whites with blue eyes; blues, 
silvers, chinchillas, tabbies, tortoise-shells, and, in fact, 
all sorts of colors and combinations of colors. 

Siamese Cats are an odd breed and are hard to raise. 
They are nearly white when first born, but when grown 
they are soft, pale fawn, with the ears, nose, tail, and 



126 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

legs dark, sooty-brown, or chocolate. The eyes are 
blue, and the tail may be either kinked or straight. 

Manx Cats are a queer, tailless breed with high hind 
quarters. They are very intelligent and affectionate, 
with long, soft fur. These Manx Cats should not, how- 
ever, be confused with tailless cats which have the 
tail amputated when young so that they may be sold 
as true Manx Cats. In the real Manx breed there is 
no tail whatever, and the end of the spine may be 
easily felt, whereas in cats which have had the tail 
removed there is a stub or a slight knob on the end of 
the spine. 

Diseases of Cats 

Cats are subject to many diseases, but few of them 
prove fatal except in the case of young kittens. Most 
cat diseases are similar to diseases of human beings, 
and, as a rule, the same remedies that you would 
give a child may be given to cats with satisfactory 
results. 

A great many diseases may be prevented by care in 
feeding. Give boiled milk and in spring a pinch of 
sulphur each morning. Give kittens a dessert-spoonful 
of lime-water in their milk each day and use care not 
to overfeed or to give too much meat, and your cats 
will be in good health most of the time. 

The following are a few of the most common diseases 
with their treatment: 

Ancemia. — Give Blaud's Iron Pills — one half a pill 
daily until nose becomes pink. 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 12/ 

Colds. — Rub the nose both outside and in with lan- 
oHn. If the cat sneezes so much the better. Also 
give small doses of aconite and feed beef tea. Keep 
warm and away from draughts. 

Constipation. — This is usually caused by a lack of 
green food. Give castor-oil or sweet-oil or one half 
of a Carter's Liver Pill. 

Debility. — ^Give cinchona bark, one ounce, in water, 
one pint. Dose, a dessert-spoonful three times a day. 

Diarrhoea. — Give tepid — not hot — food. White of 
raw egg in teaspoonful doses, three times daily, is ex- 
cellent. Also powdered arrowroot made into a thin 
gruel. 

Distemper. — Small doses of strong beef tea, with one 
grain of quinine twice a day, with a teaspoonful of port 
wine. No solid food but plenty of sunshine. 

Ear Troubles. — Use any good lotion that you would 
use upon yourself. 

Fits. — Plunge the animal in hot water, as hot as 
you can stand, up to the neck, holding the creature's 
head out of water. Place a rag or sponge wrung in 
cold water on the head and give doses of bromide of 
potassium. 

Gastritis. — Give bismuth powders, one quarter tea- 
spoonful the first day, and reduce dose each day for 
three or four days. Do not give solid food. The 
symptoms are a craving for cold water. Give the cat 
all it wants. 

Skin Troubles. — Use sulphur and vaseline rubbed 
well into the roots of the hair. 



128 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Snuffles. — A complete change of air will generally 
effect a cure. Sweet-oil with a few drops of oil of euca- 
lyptus sprayed or rubbed on the nostrils will help. 

Sore Throat. — Chlorate of potash dropped in throat 
in form of powder. 

Weak Eyes. — Cod-liver oil given daily to build up 
the system, with a lotion of alum and water on eye- 
lids and boracic-acid solution dropped in eyes. Give 
plenty of air, exercise, and warm sunshine. 

Worms. — Symptoms: great hunger, irrespective of 
the amount of food supplied, lean condition, and poor 
coat. Give salt in food, and dose with some reliable 
worm medicine. 

Vermin. — Fleas and lice are at times very trouble- 
some. Cleanliness, liberal use of disinfectants, and 
frequent combing or brushing of the fur will do much 
to prevent these pests. If fleas or lice become estab- 
lished on the cat, rub fresh Persian Insect-Powder well 
into the hair all over the body. Repeat this each day 
for three days and then comb and brush thoroughly. 
In a bad case the cat may be thoroughly scrubbed with 
a thick lather of carbolic or whale-oil soap, and dried 
in a warm spot. 

If any other diseases or serious trouble arise do not 
hesitate to consult a good veterinary who makes a 
specialty of cats. 

Wildcats 

This is a term applied to many species of wildcats, 
as well as to ordinary domestic cats which have run 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 1 29 

wild in the woods. The real wildcat is a European 
animal, which in general appearance resembles the 
common cat. The tail, however, is stouter and shorter 
and does not taper, and the animal is larger, stronger, 
and more heavily built than the common cat. The 
wildcat is a very savage, ill-tempered creature, and 
never becomes thoroughly tame. The American Wild- 
cat, so-called, is the bay lynx, or bobcat. This is 
a large, long-legged animal with a short, stub tail, and 
ears which end in little tufts of hair or tassels. Its 
color is gray, spotted, or irregularly marked with 
darker tints of gray and brown. When taken young 
the bobcat will sometimes become fairly tame, but 
Uke all the lynx family it is treacherous and unfit to 
be a pet. 

In South and Central America and Mexico there are 
various species of large wildcats, some of them very 
handsomely marked. The Margay Cat is a very 
common species. It is about 2 feet in length with a 
long tail, from which it derives its common name of 
Long-Tailed Cat. Its color is grizzly brown or red- 
dish with black spots and rings. The margay is fre- 
quently kept in captivity in the countries where it is 
found and often becomes as docile and domestic as 
the common cat. 

The ocelot is a very beautiful creature, resembling 
somewhat a leopard or jaguar in color but with elon- 
gated and irregular markings instead of rounded spots. 
It is very easily tamed when young but is treacherous 
and undependable later. 



I30 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Several other species of wildcat are found in tropical 
America, but none of them can be tamed sufficiently 
to be considered desirable pets. In Africa, Asia, and 
the East there are also a number of wild, catlike crea- 
tures, some of which are occasionally kept in captivity. 
Any of the cat family, not excepting lions, tigers, and 
leopards, may be tamed when taken young, and until 
half grown they are very gentle, playful, and affection- 
ate. When mature, however, they are unreliable, 
treacherous, and incapable of real affection or grati- 
tude. At the least provocation they will turn on their 
masters, and even the best and most skilful trainers 
can never feel quite safe among these giant cats. 

When in tropical America I once owned a young 
jaguar, which was brought to me when a mere kitten. 
It was a very pretty and lively little creature and drank 
readily from a bottle. It soon learned to lap milk 
and was fed on a mixed diet of bread and milk, gravies, 
rice, vegetables, and cooked meat. Every effort was 
made to tame it. For some months the little jaguar 
was very gentle and would follow me about like a pet 
dog and would rub against my legs like a cat begging 
to be petted. It never showed any disposition to 
scratch or bite until about half grown when, without 
the least warning, it sprang at a passing boy and nearly 
killed him. After this the animal was kept securely 
chained; but it soon became so sullen and savage that 
it had to be destroyed. 





I. Margay Cat. 



CATLIKE ANIMALS. 
2. Civet. 



3. Genet. 



CATS AND CATLIKE ANIMALS 131 

Other Catlike Animals 

Somewhat similar to cats in habits and appearance 
are the genets and civets of the Old World. These 
creatures have a strong and powerful odor, which is 
very unpleasant to many people, but which is highly 
prized as a scent by the Orientals. The animals are 
prettily marked and are more or less weasel-like in 
form. The genet is frequently tamed, and in Con- 
stantinople is kept by the natives in their houses to 
destroy rats and mice. The civets are also kept in 
captivity in Africa and Asia. They are good mousers 
and sometimes become very tame and are fond of being 
petted and stroked. They are never very affectionate, 
however, and are likely to bite and inflict serious in- 
juries if handled roughly or suddenly disturbed. 

The Hunting Leopard 

This remarkable animal, known also as the cheetah^ 
is as large as a leopard, and has characteristics which 
cause it to resemble both a cat and a dog. The limbs 
are long and slender, the head short and round, and the 
claws cannot be entirely drawn into the toes, as in the 
true cat. The cheetah can run for long distances as 
swiftly as a horse, and this odd combination of dog- 
like running and catlike stealth render it a most suc- 
cessful and tireless hunter of game. This faculty has 
been taken advantage of by man, and in Asia and 
Africa cheetahs are kept in captivity and used for 



132 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

hunting antelope and other swift-running animals. If 
taken young and well trained the hunting leopard be- 
comes very tame and seems to take delight in aiding 
the huntsman. 

In Mexico the Aztecs are said to have trained the 
ocelots for hunting, but at the present time the cheetah 
is the only member of the great cat family that is 
domesticated and trained by man for this purpose. 



CHAPTER X 
MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 

IF we visit a menagerie we will always find a crowd 
around the monkey cage; even the elephants and 
lions fail to attract the same interest and atten- 
tion as these lively and familiar little creatures. 
Monkeys are so droll, so mischievous, and so human 
in their ways that they are irresistible, and even the 
hurrying business man will stop to watch the antics 
of some poor organ-grinder's monkey on the sidewalk. 
Many members of the monkey race are exceedingly 
intelligent and learn to eat at table, dress and undress, 
go to bed, sweep rooms, ride bicycles, use roller-skates, 
and even to smoke pipes, like human beings. These 
are usually manlike monkeys, or apes, but some of 
the larger baboons are almost as intelligent. The apes 
and baboons are not, however, suitable for home pets; 
they are very valuable and require a great deal of care; 
they are subject to numerous ills, very susceptible to 
colds, and the baboons, at least, are usually ill-tem- 
pered and often savage, especially toward strangers. 
Many of the smaller monkeys make excellent pets, 
however; but all monkeys require far more care and 
attention than other pets, and you cannot expect to 
keep a monkey as easily as you would a cat, dog, or 
rabbit. 

^33 



134 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

There is a vast number of species in the monkey 
tribe, and they range in size from the giant gorillas, 
chimpanzees, and orangs, which are nearly as large 
as a man, to the tiny "Titis," or Squirrel-Monkeys, 
which are less than a foot in length. 

Monkeys are native in both the Old and the New 
World, but those in America may be readily distin- 
guished from all other species by their noses. Whereas 
all Old World monkeys have the nostrils pointed or 
directed downward and close together, the American 
monkeys all have the nostrils widely separated and 
directed outward. 

The tail of a monkey is often a very good means of 
determining his nationality; for while the Old World 
monkeys and the American monkeys may have long 
tails, short tails, or scarcely any tail at all, the pre- 
hensile or grasping form of tail is found only among 
American monkeys. If you see a monkey with a pre- 
hensile tail you may be sure he is an American; but a 
short tail or a tail which is not prehensile does not 
prove that the owner is a foreigner. Most American 
monkeys are fairly small, the largest being the howlers^ 
which are 3 or 4 feet in length, and a member of nearly 
any species is easily tamed and becomes very affec- 
tionate. The Old World monkeys, on the other hand, 
vary greatly in size, and many of the species are savage, 
sullen, and untamable. 

Practically all hand-organ monkeys are American, 
and the great majority of small monkeys in menageries 
and zoological gardens are also natives of this hemi-' 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 135 

sphere. They are cheaper, hardier, and, as a rule, far 
more intelHgent than the Old World species, and their 
hand-like tails make them far more interesting and 
amusing. 

Although there are a great many species of American 
monkeys, they may be divided into six groups or 
classes, aside from the marmosets. The first of these 
groups comprises the various howlers^ big, ugly, ill- 
tempered creatures which troop through the forest tree 
tops in great droves and make night hideous with their 
terrific cries. They are practically untamable, and 
even when treated with the utmost kindness they re- 
main sullen and ferocious. 

Uakaris 

The second group comprises the queer uakaris. 
These are baboon-like monkeys, with long, white hair, 
very short tails, and scarlet faces. They are very 
rare in captivity and do not thrive outside of their 
native forests. 

The couxios, or Bearded Monkeys, are the third 
group, and these are distinguished by the odd wig-like 
mop of hair on the crown and by a heavy beard on the 
chin. They are strikingly peculiar creatures and look 
like tiny gnomes or dwarfs. Their tails are not pre- 
hensile but are thick and bushy, and the fur is usually 
long and coarse, although some species have very soft, 
silky hair. They vary in color according to the species, 
but the majority are dark or even black. They are 



136 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

quite small, about 10 or 12 inches in length without 
the tail, and are easily tamed and become very strongly 
attached to their masters. They are quite rare in 
collections but have so many excellent traits and are 
so droll in appearance that they deserve to be better 
known. 

The next group contains the so-called Spider- 
Monkeys. These are the most abundant of American 
monkeys and are exceedingly active, lively creatures, 
perfectly at home in the tree tops but are very awk- 
ward on the ground on account of their extremely long, 
slender limbs. Their tails are as useful as a fifth hand 
and are often used for picking fruit or for carrying food 
to the mouth; and, as the hands have no thumbs, such 
a tail is almost a necessity. Some species of Spider- 
Monkeys are very large; they sometimes reach a length 
of over 2 feet without the long tail, but they are so 
lean and "spidery" that they look far longer than 
they really are. 

There are many species of Spider-Monkeys, and they 
are widely hunted by the natives for food. Their flesh 
is very sweet and tender and tastes like quail or pigeon. 

Some Spider-Monkeys are black, others brown, and 
others a rich reddish color. Their heads are small, 
and their expression rather wistful and surprised. 
They are far from beautiful, but their dispositions are 
so mild and they are so easily tamed that they are 
great favorites as pets. Many Spider-Monkeys show 
remarkable intelligence; they are easily made unhappy 
by cross or impatient language and are pleased and 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 137 

encouraged by kind words. They are not nearly as 
mischievous as many other species and are seldom 
surly, ill-tempered, or treacherous. They can be 
trained to perform many odd tricks. A lady friend 
who owned a large red Spider-Monkey in Central 
America had taught the creature to open and shut 
windows and doors, carry dishes to and from the table, 
and perform various other household duties. In ac- 
complishing these tasks the monkey never ran on all 
fours but hopped along on its hind limbs, using its 
tail as a prop or support, or at times carrying some 
object in its grasp. 

Capuchins 

The capuchins are another group or class of American 
monkeys which includes numerous varieties. They are 
easily recognized by an extremely long prehensile tail, 
thickly covered with hair, a well-developed thumb on 
the hand, and a large, intelligent head covered with 
short hair. These are the commonest of all American 
monkeys in menageries, and nearly all hand-organ 
monkeys belong in this group. In color they are vari- 
able; some varieties are brown, others gray, others 
golden, others reddish, and some very dark-brown or 
even black. In nearly all varieties the head and face 
are lighter in color than the rest of the body, and 
in the White-Faced Monkeys the whole face, throat, 
neck, and chest are pure white. 

The capuchins are exceedingly intelligent but rest- 
less, inquisitive, and changeable in mood. They are 



138 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

usually good-tempered and although seldom malicious 
are very mischievous and full of tricks. The capuchins 
make very affectionate and interesting pets but are 
often extremely jealous and fly into a perfect fury of 
rage if their master or mistress shows any attention 
to other creatures or to human beings. They are also 
very uncomfortable when laughed at and will often 
sulk for hours and utter most pitiful cries if scolded 
or punished. These monkeys often form sudden at- 
tachments for perfect strangers and whine and cry 
if their affection is not returned. They are tireless 
investigators and will spend a great deal of time en- 
deavoring to solve the mystery of a watch or other 
mechanical device and are as pleased as children when 
they discover how to use some tool or such a utensil 
as a comb, brush, mirror, or cup. They are quite 
hardy and withstand changes in climate and tempera- 
ture far better than most monkeys. 

The last group of American monkeys comprises 
the titis, or Squirrel-Monkeys. These are very small, 
gentle creatures with long hairy tails which are not at 
all prehensile. The colors are usually bright reddish, 
or golden-brown, and the fur is soft, thick, and silky. 
The face is often white or very pale-colored, and the 
eyes are large, soft, and gentle. The Squirrel-Monkeys 
are very easily tamed and love to be petted and caressed. 
They like warmth and shelter and will sleep content- 
edly in their owner's pocket or curled in one's lap. 
They are by far the most desirable of the true monkeys 
for house pets and are as cleanly and neat as squirrels. 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 139 

Marmosets 

These are the most beautiful and lovable of all the 
monkey family. In size they are about as large as a 
squirrel, and they are so gentle and affectionate that 
they are always great favorites. There are several 
species — all American — and in habits, appearance, and 
other characteristics they are all much alike. 

Marmosets require a great deal of warmth and 
should always be kept in a warm room with plenty 
of soft bedding. In cold weather a warm soapstone 
wrapped in several thicknesses of flannel will make a 
nice cosey bed for the little creatures, but ordinarily 
a nest of soft wool and cotton will keep them warm 
enough. They soon learn to creep into a tiny bed and 
will snuggle down under the miniature blankets in a 
very human-like manner. They are very easily tamed 
and may be allowed the liberty of a room without the 
least danger, for they seldom attempt to hide or escape 
but prefer to cuddle up in one's lap or curl up inside of 
a pocket or a basket of cloth. They are apt to be 
very timid in the presence of strangers and keep up 
a querulous little cry if they are alarmed or distrust- 
ful. In summer-time marmosets may be kept out-of- 
doors during the day, and I have known of several 
cases where tame marmosets were allowed to roam at 
large about the garden. These little creatures made 
no effort to escape but travelled here and there along 
the fences and among shrubbery, or dozed in the sun. 
They kept well out of the reach of dogs, which they 



I40 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

seemed to recognize as natural enemies. At first the 
owner of these marmosets was afraid they would be 
caught or injured by stray cats, but the cats seemed to 
consider the marmosets as uncanny and gave them a 
wide berth. 

Marmosets may be kept in small cages with perches 
and swings, or they may be secured with a light chain 
or cord attached to a collar or belt and fastened to 
a shelf or box provided with a nest. They should be 
kept very neat and clean, and their coats should be 
daily brushed with a child's soft hair-brush. Fresh 
water should always be within reach, and in cold 
weather it should be about the temperature of the 
room. If you see a marmoset shivering or wrapped 
up in its tail you may be sure that it feels chilly, and 
it should immediately be moved to a warmer spot. 
In their wild state marmosets live upon small birds, 
birds' eggs, insects, and fruit. In captivity they should 
be fed on fruit, mocking-bird food, canary and other 
seeds, meal worms, and insects, with now and then a 
little finely minced raw chicken or meat. Sometimes 
marmosets are very fond of milk, and a reasonable 
amount will not hurt them. Hard-boiled egg is also 
excellent, especially in cold weather, and if you can 
secure some eggs of the English sparrows they will 
prove a most enjoyable tidbit for your pets. 

Old World Monkeys 

Aside from the baboons, mandrills, macaques, and 
the large apes, none of which are suitable for home 




A^m^.^.., 




MARMOSETS. 

I. White-Eared Marmoset, or Saguin. 2. Pinche, or Midas Monkey. 

J. Tamarin, or Marikina. 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 141 

pets, the Old World monkeys are comparatively few 
in number, and many of the most beautiful and in- 
teresting species are very rare or are seldom found in 
captivity. 

The commonest of the foreign monkeys in captivity 
is the Green Mojikey, so called from the color of its 
fur, which is an olive-green. The face is decorated 
with long whitish, or yellow whiskers, which unite 
over the forehead, and the throat and under-parts are 
also whitish. The Green Monkey is a native of Africa 
but was introduced into the West Indies about the 
year 1700, and is now very abundant on the islands 
of Saint Kitts and Grenada. 

Mangaheys 

The mangaheys are somewhat like the Green Monkeys 
in form but are very different in color. They are usu- 
ally dark or blackish with small whiskers, projecting 
eyebrows, and white eyelids. Some species have white 
heads and light lower parts; others have a white collar, 
while still others are entirely black. 

Related to these is the Diana Monkey, a species with 
a grizzly-black coat, with the forehead, a goat-like 
beard, the throat, chest, inside of legs, and a streak 
across the rump, pure white. It is a beautiful species 
and easily tamed. 

The Bon7iet-Mo7ikey 

The Bonnet-Monkey is a peculiar species from India, 
where it is held sacred by the natives, and being un- 



142 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

molested, it commits great depredations on growing 
crops. The color is yellowish, with black hands and 
feet, and the hair on the head projects over the eyes 
and around the cheeks in such a way that the animal 
seems to be wearing a bonnet. These monkeys are 
easily tamed and become quite affectionate, but when 
fully grown are too large to make good pets. An adult 
Bonnet-Monkey will weigh twenty-five pounds or more 
and is a very large and strong creature. 

Orange-Faced. Monkey 

The Orange-Faced Monkey of China is a very beauti- 
ful creature with its golden face surrounded by glossy 
white whiskers, and a line of reddish-brown across the 
eyebrows. The back is dove-gray with a square patch 
of white on the loins. The tail and arms are white, 
and a collar of bright chestnut surrounds the lower 
neck. The thighs are black and the hind legs brownish- 
red. It is rarely seen in this country but makes an 
excellent pet. 

The Giierza 

Possibly the most beautiful of all monkeys is the 
African guerza. This animal has the limbs, back, and 
head covered with short, glossy, jet-black fur with the 
cheeks, chin, and forehead pure white. Hanging from 
the sides, flanks, and end of the tail is a long, luxurious 
fringe of silky white hair which gives the monkey a 
most elegant appearance. The guerza is much hunted 
for its skin, is rather rare in collections, and is seldom 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 143 

seen in captivity, although it is easily tamed and 
makes a very handsome and interesting pet. 

Many other species of both American and foreign 
monkeys are seen in menageries and for sale by dealers, 
but the varieties described above are the more desirable 
of those commonly offered for sale. 

In selecting a monkey for a pet, be sure that it is 
healthy and good-tempered. Many monkeys are cross 
and savage in the presence of strangers, and you should 
not judge hastily of the animal's nature by a single 
visit to the dealer's. If you like a monkey try to 
make friends with it, feed it a few dainties, and coax 
it, talking quietly to it meanwhile, and in this way 
overcoming its shyness and distrust. After a few 
visits it will probably recognize you, and if it appears 
to take a liking to you and allows you to stroke or 
scratch it you may be confident that it will make a 
good pet. 

Care and Housing 

Monkeys are all natives of warm countries and are 
very susceptible to changes of climate and cold weather. 
Draughts, dampness, and unusual cold are fatal to 
them, and probably more monkeys die from pneu- 
monia and pleurisy than from any other causes. Keep 
your monkeys in a well-heated, properly ventilated 
room in cold weather and do not expose them to 
draughts or sudden changes of air. Never open a win- 
dow when a monkey is in the room in cold weather, 
and never keep a monkey's cage on the floor where it 



144 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

is draughty. Most monkeys love the warmth and 
brightness of sunshine, and a sun-bath is good for 
them. Extreme cleanHness of food, cage, and the 
animal itself is a prime factor in maintaining monkeys 
in good health, and the cage should be thoroughly 
cleaned and disinfected each day. 

Do not keep a monkey cooped up in a small cage. 
They are very lively, active animals by nature and 
must have abundant opportunity for exercise if they 
are to thrive in captivity. Even a small monkey 
should have a cage at least 3 feet square and 3 or 4 
feet in height, and if you cannot provide such quarters 
you should not think of keeping a monkey. The little 
titis and marmosets may, however, be kept in a good 
sized squirrel cage, especially if allowed to exercise in 
the room or yard each day. 

It is not necessary to have a ready-made wire cage; 
an ordinary wire-netting cage is just as good or better, 
and in such a cage you may have a scraggly tree or some 
branches which the inmate will thoroughly appreciate. 
The cage should be provided with a snug box or nest, 
for monkeys love comfort and warmth when sleeping, 
but the nest materials should be renewed every few 
days and the box thoroughly disinfected. Cover the 
floor of the cage with clean, fine sawdust, sprinkled 
with eucalyptus-oil and water, and renew it each day, 
and give the animal some bright-colored, large-sized 
marbles, a toy china doll, or some other toys to play 
with. Monkeys will amuse themselves with toys by 
the hour, and are as fond of such things as children. 






MONKEYS. 
I. Titi. 2. Bearded Monkey. 3. Marmoset. 4. Guereza. 5. Capuchin. 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 145 

Always provide clean drinking water in abundance, 
and if you secure your pet by a belt and chain be 
very sure that the belt is not too tight. 
' Monkeys brought to this country by seamen are 
often fastened with a chain to a belt, and frequently 
the belt is so tight that it seriously injures the monkey. 
It is a wise plan always to examine a new monkey to 
be sure that an old belt or cord does not still encircle 
the animal's waist. Sometimes the belt may be left 
in place and so concealed by the hair that it is not 
noticeable. I have known of cases in which a sick 
and apparently dying monkey was completely cured 
in a few days by removing a piece of leather thong 
which was tied about the creature's waist and was 
concealed by its fur. 

Many people object to tame monkeys on the ground 
that they carry fleas, lice, bedbugs, and other vermin. 
It must be admitted that far too many monkeys are 
afflicted with these detestable pests, but they are 
easily destroyed and will not return if the monkey is 
kept clean, and other monkeys, dogs, or cats with fleas 
are not allowed near. 

When you first acquire a monkey treat its fur with 
a good dose of fresh Persian Insect-Powder, rubbing 
the powder well into the roots of the hair. It will 
doubtless object to the process, but if necessary it 
may be muzzled during it. Repeat the operation 
again in two days, and in the meantime keep the cage 
well sprayed with disinfectant. After the second ap- 
plication remove the monkey from the cage and scald 



146 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the entire cage with boiling water. Brush out the 
monkey's fur thoroughly, and you will have no further 
trouble with vermin if you have carried out the treat- 
ment properly. If there are fleas or other vermin on 
the head near the eyes and nostrils, do not use the 
powder in these places, but rub vaseline and sulphur 
well into the roots of the hair. 

Feeding 

In a wild state monkeys live on a very mixed and 
miscellaneous diet of nuts, fruits, seeds, shoots, leaves, 
birds, insects, eggs, and vegetables. Some species feed 
largely upon animal matter, and others subsist almost 
wholly upon vegetable food, but in confinement a 
mixed diet is always preferable. The principal food 
should consist of grains, fruit, and fresh green vege- 
tables. Nuts may be given sparingly as luxuries, but 
roasted peanuts should never be given. I doubt if 
any food is worse for a monkey than roasted peanuts, 
although monkeys in menageries are constantly re- 
ceiving them. Cooked food of any sort is unnatural, 
and peanuts are very indigestible. Probably more 
digestive disorders among caged monkeys can be traced 
to peanuts than to anything else. 

The mainstay of a monkey's diet should be grain 
and vegetables. Cracked corn, paddy, hemp, rape, 
and canary-seed, as well as oats and wheat, should be 
fed freely. Any fresh vegetables, especially raw sweet 
potatoes, carrots, artichokes, beets, and the like are all 
excellent. Ripe apples, bananas, oranges, and other 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 147 

fruits are also good, and some species of monkeys will 
subsist almost entirely upon fruit. Meal-worms and 
ants' eggs should be given every day or two, and any 
other insects, either fresh or prepared as directed for 
soft-billed birds, should be given whenever possible. 
Raw hens' eggs are relished, and you will be surprised 
to see how neatly a monkey will open and eat a hen's 
egg without spilling any of the contents. Fresh green 
clover and lettuce should be offered the monkey, for 
some individuals are very fond of greens. If your 
monkey will drink milk it will not harm it, but it 
should be given with a little lime-water, and preferably 
scalded. Sugar, candy, cake, pie, and all other sweet 
substances should be avoided. All such foods are in- 
jurious, but a piece of sugar-cane or a green corn- 
stalk will be a welcome and healthy addition to the 
monkey's bill of fare. In summer the animal may be 
given raw green corn on the cob, as well as raw peas, 
beans, and other vegetables. Corn should never be 
given in large quantities in any form as it is heating, 
but in winter it may be given more liberally than in 
summer. Dry, hard bread crusts will seldom prove 
injurious, but soft or newly baked bread should never 
be fed. Many monkeys must have a limited amount 
of animal food. If the monkey seems to be dissatisfied 
with its diet, try a little raw chicken or beef, and if it 
appears to relish it feed it a very little once or twice 
a week. Be very careful not to overfeed. Monkeys 
are greedy creatures and will eat all they can hold and 
then stuff their cheek-pouches full. Just as soon as 



148 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

you see the monkey begin to fill its cheeks with food 
stop feeding, and give a little less the next time. 

Feed three times a day, morning, noon, and night, 
and try to plan the meals so that each contains differ- 
ent substances. 

If the monkey appears hungry between meals and 
cries out when you approach, you can increase the 
amount of food slightly until it appears satisfied. A 
dish of hard, whole grains may be left within reach all 
the time, for monkeys will seldom eat more than they 
require of these things and the mastication required 
is good for them. 

As each species of monkey varies more or less in its 
likes and dislikes respecting food, and every individual 
of a species has personal preferences just as people do, 
it is impossible to lay down a hard-and-fast rule for all 
monkeys. Use common sense, judgment, and a varied 
diet, and you will soon learn your monkey's tastes 
and what it is best to feed it. 

Diseases 

Monkeys have numerous diseases, but as most of 
them are very similar to human ills they may be suc- 
cessfully treated by the same remedies that you would 
employ for like ailments in a child. Colds, influenza, 
and pneumonia are their commonest troubles, and these 
ills are easier to prevent than to cure. 

Improper food and overfeeding are also the cause of 
many monkey diseases. It is an all too common habit 
to feed monkeys everything and anything that they like. 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 149 

Lemurs 

You may think that monkeys are interesting and 
amusing pets, and that the dainty marmosets are very 
lovable, but if you once keep a pet lemur you will find 
that it combines all the desirable qualities and char- 
acters of both monkeys and marmosets, with none of 
the bad traits of the former and far more intelligence 
than the latter. 

Lemurs, although related to monkeys, are very 
different from those animals in appearance. The 
sharp nose and fox-like face, with its staring owl-like 
eyes give the lemurs a very wide-awake and knowing 
expression, and they have a cool, odd manner of peer- 
ing fixedly at any object which is very amusing. The 
perfectly formed fingers and thumbs resemble the lean, 
wrinkled hands of an old negro, while the long, bushy, 
and beautiful tail is far handsomer than that of any 
squirrel. There are many species of lemurs, but the 
majority are natives of Madagascar and East Africa, 
and all are more or less similar and are easily recog- 
nized. 

Lemurs are naturally nocturnal, but in confinement 
they soon learn to stay awake during the day, and they 
prove one of the most interesting, affectionate, and in- 
telHgent of all pet animals. They are wonderfully 
active creatures, with the power of making prodigious 
leaps or bounds, and will jump from and alight upon 
narrow or insecure footholds with the ease and agility 
of a bird. Their hands are not only fitted for grasping 



I50 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

by the form of the fingers and thumbs, but in addition 
many species possess the power of actually causing the 
palms of their feet to adhere to a perfectly smooth sur- 
face by means of tiny, sucker-like wrinkles and papillae. 

The lemurs readily walk erect, and in cages they 
have a curious habit of running back and forth on a 
perch while standing on the hind feet, and keeping the 
front feet clasped over the breast. Although usually 
quite silent, the lemurs possess voices out of all pro- 
portion to their size, and the cry of a small lemur 
sounds more like the roar of a lion than the call of 
such a dainty little creature. 

The lemur's tail is its pride and delight. A tame 
lemur will squat for hours fondling and arranging its 
tail, and when cold the little creature uses it for a 
blanket and swings it over one shoulder in a very 
jaunty manner, reminding one of a Mexican with his 
serape. When sleeping the lemur curls up in a ball 
and wraps itself in its bushy tail, and then appears 
like a mere ball of soft fur. 

Lemurs grow very fond of their masters and trot 
around after them most assiduously, often clinging 
with one hand to the edge of a garment and holding 
the voluminous tail over the other arm. They soon 
learn to run up and down stairs, and seem to delight 
in imitating the actions and attitudes of human beings. 
They are very inquisitive but are never mischievous 
or malicious like monkeys. They love to investigate 
a strange person or a new object, but seem to feel 
that every one is a friend, and are willing, to be petted 




LEMUR. 



MONKEYS AND MONKEY-LIKE CREATURES 151 

or stroked by any one, and are greatly pleased at any 
attention shown them. They are extremely docile, 
and I never knew of a lemur biting or snapping at 
any one; in fact, their teeth rather preclude the idea 
of their biting seriously, for they are adapted to eating 
fruits and soft-bodied insects rather than to tearing 
meat or breaking hard-shelled nuts. 

Lemurs are natives of tropical countries and must 
be kept warm and free from draughts, but they are 
such delightful pets and so cleanly in their habits and 
free from any disagreeable odor that no one will find 
it too much trouble to give them all the care and atten- 
tion they require. 

Lemurs may be kept in good-sized squirrel cages or 
in houses made of wire netting, and when they become 
accustomed to their new home and are thoroughly ac- 
quainted with their owners they may be released from 
their cage a great deal of the time. During warm 
summer weather they may be taken out-of-doors, and 
they will romp and play in great glee, and will find a lot 
of exercise and delight in scratching about for insects. 

The body of the commoner species of lemurs is about 
15 to 16 inches in length, with a tail measuring as much 
more, but they are very light in weight and the thick 
fur makes them look much larger than they really are. 

In a wild state the lemur feeds upon fruits and in- 
sects exclusively, and in confinement it should be fed 
upon dates, bananas, insects, and sweetened and sof- 
tened rice and grain. Meal-worms, ants' eggs, and in- 
sects should also be fed freely and water should be 



152 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

given. Some lemurs are fond of fresh vegetables and 
grass, and others seem to require a little meat now and 
then. The best diet is a varied one, as for monkeys 
and marmosets, but fruit should be the main article 
of food. 

Cleanliness is as essential for lemurs as for any other 
pet, and as they are naturally very clean and neat 
animals any dirt or a foul cage is very distasteful to 
them; in fact, I have known of a lemur absolutely to 
refuse to eat or sleep in a cage which had not been 
properly cleaned. They are not at all difficult to 
keep, and are seldom troubled with any disease other 
than colds or influenza, which may be prevented by 
keeping them warm and protected from draughts. On 
cold nights they should be placed in a warm spot, and 
the cage may be wrapped in cloth or paper as an addi- 
tional protection. Lemurs seldom have fleas or other 
vermin, and as far as I know there is absolutely no 
objectionable feature about them. 

If you want a really interesting, odd, and beautiful 
pet by all means obtain a lemur. 



CHAPTER XI 
RUMINANTS AND HOOFED ANIMALS 

WE are all familiar with the story of "Mary's 
Little Lamb" and know that lambs and kids 
may become very affectionate pets. Even- 
tually they become sheep or goats, however, and are 
then no longer particularly desirable pets. 

Many other hoofed animals are very suitable for pets, 
and deer and antelope readily become tame enough to 
follow their owners to school or anywhere else. 

Deer 

When the author resided in Central America he had 
a number of tame native animals, among them a deer 
and a peccary. The deer was brought in when it was 
a young spotted fawn and was never confined. The 
little creature was kept in the patio of the house and 
was fed on hay, vegetables, and grass. It was per- 
fectly at home, and when we went for a walk about the 
town would follow us through the streets like a dog. 
We frequently stopped at a small village on the borders 
of the forest, and always took "Pepito," as we named 
the deer, with us. He seemed to enjoy riding on the 
train, and the conductors, brakemen, and other train- 
men all knew him and petted him. 

153 



154 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

While in the country Pepito was left free to roam as 
he pleased, but as there were many wild deer in the 
vicinity a bell was tied around his neck so that he 
would not be mistaken for a wild deer and killed by 
hunters. Early each morning the deer would trot off 
up the road, jump over the fence of the corral, and dis- 
appear in the woods. In the afternoon he would come 
back, visit all his friends in the village, and lie down 
contentedly in his bed on the veranda. Oftentimes, 
hunting far from the village, I would come upon a herd 
of wild deer, and frequently when I approached them 
Pepito would come bounding out from their midst to 
greet me. All the natives knew him, and he was never 
molested or injured in any way. When I left the coun- 
try I gave Pepito to a friend, and so far as I know he is 
still alive and spending his days among his wild relations 
and his evenings and nights with his human friends. 

Any of the deer family will become tame if brought 
up by hand and in the presence of human beings, but 
only the smaller species are suitable for pets. The 
little "Brocket" Deer of tropical America, the West 
Indian Deer, and the tiny, dwarf muntjac are the best 
species for pets. These are all delicate creatures and 
must be kept in warm quarters during winter in the 
North, but during summer they may be given a great 
deal of freedom. 

Deer require very little care, they are clean and are 
not afflicted with vermin, and they may be fed on 
grass, hay, grain, and similar food just as readily as 
sheep or cattle. 



RUMINANTS AND HOOFED ANIMALS 155 

Antelope 

Antelope also make very interesting and lovable 
pets. Our own native Pronghorn Antelope is a very 
graceful and beautiful species but is very difficult to 
raise. Many of the African and Asiatic antelopes are 
far more desirable. The Gazelle, the springbok, the 
beautiful "Harnessed Antelope," and various other spe- 
cies are frequently kept as pets in their native lands. 
These animals are all very easy to care for and feed, 
and if given warm quarters in winter they will thrive 
in our country perfectly well. 

The Goat 

Common goats are widely kept as pets, especially 
for the purpose of drawing tiny carts or wagons. The 
ordinary goat, however, is a very stubborn and obsti- 
nate creature and is far from beautiful. The silky- 
coated Angoras are far more attractive and are more 
gentle and easily trained. 

The hardihood of goats is well known, and they will 
eat practically anything and everything which they 
can chew. In this respect common goats are often a 
great nuisance, as they will eat clothing, carpets, etc., 
if they are within their reach. It is said that Angoras 
are more particular in their tastes and prefer hay, grain, 
and vegetables to paper, tin cans, and rags. 

Goats should never be kept where they can reach 
flower-beds or shrubbery, but should be kept in a wire- 
netting enclosure or a fenced yard. Cleanliness is very 



156 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

important, and pet goats, deer, and antelope should be 
frequently washed, curried, and brushed to keep their 
hair in good condition as well as to remove the strong 
odor which characterizes many of these ruminants. 
If they are kept clean and in good condition this odor 
is not objectionable, but a dirty or unwashed goat is 
very disagreeable. 

Deer are almost free from any odor, and for this 
reason are far better than goats for pets. 

Dwarf Antelope 

Several beautiful little deer-like creatures, found in 
Africa and elsewhere, make most lovable and attrac- 
tive pets. The tiny antelope known to the South 
Africans as "duykerbok" is a very graceful animal, 
hardly larger than a good-sized hare and with greenish- 
brown hair. They are easily kept in confinement and 
are very gentle and affectionate but are seldom seen in 
this country. A somewhat similar species, known as 
the "klipspringer" by the Boers, is very abundant in 
Cape Colony and the neighboring districts. These 
little antelope are sometimes brought over by sea cap- 
tains or sailors and are occasionally for sale at the 
stores of animal dealers. 

Another small, deer-like creature is the "muntjac" 
of India and the Malay Islands. This species is about 
two feet high at the shoulder, and when adult has hand- 
some little antlers. The color is yellowish-red, the 
chin, throat, and belly white, and the face and legs 
brown. These and the pygmy Philippine Deer are not 



RUMINANTS AND HOOFED ANIMALS 157 

infrequently seen in menageries and at animal stores, 
and they make excellent pets. They are often called 
"Musk Deer" but are really distinct, about the only 
resemblance being in the projecting canine teeth or 
tusks which project from the lips in both the muntjacs 
and true Musk Deer. 

Peccary 

Peccaries are wild pigs that are found in tropical 
America, but in appearance they are very different 
from ordinary swine. There are two species, the 
"White-Lipped Peccary" and the "Collared Peccary." 
They are both rather long-legged, high, narrow animals, 
covered with coarse hair or bristles. They live in im- 
mense droves or herds. When wild they are very sav- 
age and do not hesitate to attack any other animal, 
or even man, if their anger is roused. Their tusks are 
very sharp, and they can inflict terrible wounds by a 
ripping sideways sweep of the head. They are abso- 
lutely fearless when angry, and even after numbers 
have been killed the remaining individuals will fight to 
the death. 

They inhabit deep forests and feed upon roots, herb- 
age, and bark, and are much hunted for their flesh. 

The white-lipped species is not attractive in appear- 
ance and is very difl&cult to rear in captivity or to 
tame, but the Collared Peccary is handsome in color 
and is readily tamed when taken young. 

I have already mentioned a tame peccary which I 
had in Central America. This little fellow was cap- 



158 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

tured when a few weeks old and was raised by hand, 
but was never confined or tied. He took naturally to 
his domestic life and would romp and play like a puppy 
or a kitten. He was exceedingly fond of playing hide- 
and-seek and knew by instinct when he was discovered 
and would pretend to be terribly angry at being caught. 

He would stand on his hind feet and beg for tidbits 
and would jump into a person's lap to be petted or 
caressed. Although he was very small, he had no fear 
of any other animal and when less than half grown 
would bristle up, charge at a stray dog in a perfect 
frenzy, and invariably put the intruder to ignominious 
flight. 

He made his quarters on an old door-mat beneath 
the steps of the house and came and went as he pleased. 
During the day he would frequently travel oflF to the 
forest but invariably returned at nightfall. Some- 
times he would accompany me on shooting trips and 
seemed greatly to enjoy the sport. 

A tame monkey and the tame deer were his constant 
companions and friends and, although the monkey 
teased him continually, he never objected or retaliated. 
The two creatures would lie down together and fall 
fast asleep in the sun, and not infrequently the little 
monkey would leap on the peccary's back and take a 
ride. 

This peccary was not an exception, for in many parts 
of tropical America I have seen peccaries playing with 
the children, and if taken when less than half grown 
and treated kindly they become very tame. 






I. Cony. 



RUMINANTS AND HOOFED ANIMALS. 

2. Peccary. 3. Muntj'ac. 4. Duykerbox. 



RUMINANTS AND HOOFED ANIMALS 1 59 

Unlike common domestic pigs, the peccaries are very 
cleanly in their habits. They are continually clean- 
ing and arranging their coarse hair and seldom wallow 
when in captivity, although the wild peccaries are fond 
of burying themselves in mud. They are found as 
far north as Texas but cannot stand cold weather. 
They are sometimes seen in menageries and are now 
and then offered for sale by dealers. 

Cony 

The true cony of the Orient is a very different 
animal from the commoji rabbit which is known as 
"cony" to the fur dealers. The real cony is a most 
remarkable little creature, for it is a sort of connect- 
ing-link between the rodents and the ungulates, or 
hoofed animals. The cony, or "daman," has four 
toes on the front and three toes on the hind feet, but 
these toes end in regular hoofs instead of in claws, 
although they are furnished with pads like those on 
the feet of rodents and carnivorous animals. One 
species of the daman is found in Syria, Palestine, and 
other hilly parts of Asia; the other is native to Africa. 
They dwell among rocks and cliffs and are about the 
size of rabbits. They are very timid and alert, and 
when feeding they place a sentinel on guard who warns 
his fellows of danger by a shrill cry. The damans are 
brownish in color and stout and cavy-like in form. 
They are easily tamed and become very affectionate. 
They live upon grass, herbs, flowers, and young shoots 
of shrubs and are excessively fond of salt. 



PART II-BIRDS 

CHAPTER XII 

CANARIES 
General Care and Cages 

OF all small cage-birds canaries are the most 
popular. They are charming songsters and, 
being hardy, they require comparatively little 
care; they are easy to feed and may be kept in cages 
of small size. Moreover, canaries breed readily in 
confinement, and they have been used as cage-birds 
for so many centuries that they are really thoroughly 
domesticated and have lost practically all of their 
wild characteristics. 

The style, size, and shape of the cage in which a 
canary should be kept depend upon your taste, your 
purse, the size and variety of the bird, and whether or 
not you keep a pair of canaries or a single one. 

A single bird may be kept in a very small cage, but 
a medium-sized cage is preferable, and the square 
shapes are, in many ways, better than the round ones. 
The bottom of the cage should always be kept covered 
with fresh, clean bird gravel and should be recovered 
daily. The perches and swing should also be removed 
and scrubbed with hot water each day; and if you can 

1 60 



CANARIES i6i 

obtain gravel paper it is far better than the loose gravel 
— birds frequently eat too much loose gravel. A 
cuttlefish bone should always hang in the cage to enable 
the bird to secure salt and lime, and perfect cleanliness 
is very important. The water in the drinking cup 
should be renewed daily or even oftener, if necessary, 
and the food cup should be cleaned and new seeds 
given every day. 

A canary should take its baths throughout the year, 
but it is not necessary for a bird to bathe daily; two 
or three times a week is enough. When the canary 
is to be given a bath the water and food cups should 
be removed, the bottom of the cage detached, and the 
cage set over the bathing dish containing about three 
quarters of an inch of water, with a layer of gravel at 
the bottom so that the bird may have a foothold in 
the tub. Many birds refuse to bathe because they 
slip on the smooth bottom of their bathing dish, and 
will bathe readily if gravel is placed in it. Some birds 
are very particular in regard to the shape and size of 
their bathtub, and will not enter it unless it suits them 
exactly. If a bird refuses to bathe when the ordinary 
dish is provided and sand is placed within it, try 
various shapes and sizes of dishes. I have known cana- 
ries that absolutely declined all the ready-made bathing 
dishes and readily took their bath when the water was 
placed in a shallow saucer. When the cage is placed 
over the bathing dish remove the perches and leave 
the bird undisturbed. Many birds are accustomed to 
using outside bathrooms, which are invariably used 



1 62 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

in Europe. These bathrooms are arranged to hang 
outside the opened cage door, and imported birds that 
are brought up to use them will frequently refuse to 
enter any other kind of a bath. They are very inex- 
pensive, costing but seventy-five cents, and every one 
owning a cage-bird should have one. Do not have the 
water too cold; in summer the regular city water will 
serve, but in cold weather it should be about the tem- 
perature of the room. 

After the bath the perches should be replaced and 
the cage hung in bright sunshine for not over fifteen 
minutes to dry. A bird that is placed in the sunlight 
continuously, or daily at noonday, is seldom healthy 
or in good song. Most bird owners place their canary 
cages in or near a window, but in reality this is a great 
mistake. Birds are very susceptible to draughts, and 
even the tightest window is draughty, especially in cold 
weather. The same rule applies to leaving a bird in a 
room with an open window; fresh air may be all very 
well, but draughts are fatal to many birds. Sudden 
changes of temperature or excessive heat or cold are 
injurious, and a uniform temperature of from sixty- 
five to seventy degrees is the best. When it is necessary 
to move a cage with its inmate from one spot to an- 
other, do so carefully and slowly, not roughly or hastily; 
no matter how tame your bird may be, it will be star- 
tled and disturbed by a sudden or violent motion to 
its cage. When sweeping or dusting it is best to re- 
move the bird to another room, as particles of dust will 
injure the voice of your pet. If the cage cannot be re- 



CANARIES 163 

moved sprinkle the floor with water before sweeping 
or tie a piece of cheese-cloth around the cage. 

Many birds are hung high in a room or placed very 
low. In the first instance the bird is in the hottest and 
most impure air of the room, and near the floor it is 
exposed to draughts and is easily startled. About three 
to five feet from the floor is the best height, and if the 
situation is in a subdued light the bird will sing better. 

At dark the bird should be put to bed just as regu- 
larly as a child. Wild birds naturally seek their roosts 
at dusk, but the household pet in a lighted room can- 
not do this, and although it may sleep more or less, 
its slumbers are often disturbed and it will be quite 
active long after its natural time for retiring. To 
maintain your canary in good health and song you 
should cover its cage with paper at nightfall, using one 
thickness in summer and three in winter, with the 
paper extending at least six inches above the top of the 
cage. The paper should fit closely about the lower 
part of the cage, and should rise to four inches above 
the ring by which the cage is supported, and this will 
prevent all draughts and will also furnish the darkness 
and cover which the bird requires for slumber. A 
shawl, towel, or cloth tied around a cage and left open 
at the bottom causes a strong draught upward through 
the cage, and is far worse than leaving the cage entirely 
uncovered. Even with the paper covering it is best 
to place the cage away from strong lights and noise, 
but it should not be placed in a cold room or hall. 

Many canary owners allow their pets to fly about 



164 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the rooms, and if your bird is very tame and kept more 
as a pet than for song this will do no harm; but if you 
desire the best music of which the bird is capable do 
not let it fly about outside its cage. If it is necessary 
to remove the bird from one cage to another by hand, 
and your pet is not tame enough to allow you to hold 
it in your hand, you should wait until dark and re- 
move it gently and firmly. Move your hand toward 
it slowly and quietly — do not grab it — and hold 
it firmly enough so that it cannot be injured in its 
struggles. Never grasp a bird by legs, wings, tail, or 
head; legs are easily broken, wing and tail feathers 
pull out, and your bird will be injured or killed by this 
method. Hold the bird around the body with the 
palm of your hand over its back and your thumb and 
fingers holding the wings closed. 

When carrying a bird in a cage out-of-doors, always 
cover the cage completely with manila paper, using 
one thickness in summer, two in fall or spring, and three 
in winter. In summer two or three lead-pencil holes 
may be made in the paper. 

Feeding 

The best food is the cheapest in the end with birds 
as well as with human beings. A great deal of the 
bird-seed sold in department stores, grocery stores, and 
drug stores is unfit for any bird to eat. Much of the 
seed is poor, mouldy, old, or even counterfeit. Turnip 
and mustard seeds are often substituted for rape and, 
while they are much alike in size and color, the one is 



CANARIES 165 

bitter and unhealthy while the other is sweet, rich, 
and nutritious. Even canary-seed varies in quality, 
and there is as much difference in the quality of canary- 
seed as in coffee or tea. The best regular food for the 
canary is a mixture of the best German summer rape 
and Sicilian canary-seed in the proportion of two 
thirds rape to one third canary-seed, and the rape 
should be the small reddish-brown kind, not the 
coarse black seeds. Many birds are overfed; a large 
teaspoonful, if placed where the bird can reach it all, 
is sufficient, for if too much is given the bird will eat 
all the canary-seed and leave the rape, which is bad 
for its health and ruins its song. If the bird selects all 
the canary-seed and avoids the rape, give more of the 
latter with less of the former — say about four fifths 
rape. If a few hemp-seeds are fed every other day 
from the fingers or lips the bird will become tamer and 
learn to recognize its master. Some of the highest bred 
Saint Andreasburg and Holden Canaries are fed ex- 
clusively on rape, but in most cases this is not neces- 
sary. A little apple or other fruit and some lettuce 
occasionally with chickweed in spring and summer 
are excellent, and a bird will be healthier and in better 
voice if some good, reliable tonic or song restorer such 
as Holden's is given two or three times a week, and 
daily in moulting time. The English breeds should be 
fed two thirds canary-seed and one third rape. Never 
feed the canary bread, cake, figs, candy, or sugar. Do 
not feed excessively one day and merely add a little 
seed to what is left in the cup from day to day. Empty 



i66 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

any seeds remaining in the cup and fill with fresh, clean 
seed. If any seeds remain in the contents emptied 
from the cup they may be saved by blowing away the 
husks, but seed is cheap compared with birds and it is 
best to throw away all old seed and to give fresh seed 
daily, reducing the amount given until nearly all of it 
is consumed. 

Breeding 

The care of canaries kept for breeding is somewhat 
different from that required for pet or song birds, and 
the food must also be slightly altered. 

It is very easy to breed and raise canaries provided 
you select good, strong birds and do not disturb them 
unduly. Care should be taken to choose birds that 
are not related, and they should become well acquainted 
before mating by placing the female in the breeding- 
cage and the male in his own cage, close together. 
Particularly nourishing food should be fed such as hard- 
boiled egg, with the white and yolk grated together, 
and a good tonic such as the song restorer already men- 
tioned should be given every day for a week or so be- 
fore the birds are placed in the breeding-cage together. 
Apple or similar fruit should be fed daily, and as soon 
as the two birds appear interested in one another the 
male should be placed in the breeding-cage with the 
female and left as quiet and undisturbed as possible 
for their love-making. The best time for mating is 
from early November until June, and once mated they 
will continue to breed until September. 



CANARIES 167 

The age of the birds mated is important; the male 
should not be more than four years of age, and birds 
one or two years old are preferable. The female may 
be slightly older, but both birds should be strong, 
healthy, and selected with reference to their color, size, 
song, and the results desired in the birds you are to 
raise. If color is the first consideration select birds 
which will produce offspring of the color desired. A 
yellow male and a light or whitish female will breed 
mostly clear yellow young, whereas both birds of deep- 
golden hue will breed golden-yellow young. A deep- 
yellow or gold male and a deep-green female will often 
produce the much-admired "filbert" or cinnamon col- 
ors in their young, and solid-green birds will usually 
have young of the same shade. You must remember, 
however, that all the colors, save the greenish-yellow, 
are the results of selection and breeding; and no matter 
how carefully you select the colors for breeding there 
will always be a tendency to revert to the original green 
color in the young birds. In other cases, the ancestors 
of the birds you select may have been very different in 
color, and the young birds you raise may have the 
shades and markings of the grandparents or great- 
grandparents of one or both of the parents. 

As a rule, handsomely colored or large-sized birds are 
not good songsters, for they may have strong, heavy 
notes and not long or pleasing songs. Song breeding 
has been carried on to its highest stage of perfection 
in Germany, where the breeders make it an art; but 
the song of a canary depends as much upon training 



i68 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

and example as upon breeding. A canary reared where 
it hears the notes of a nightingale or other bird will 
imitate more or less the song and notes of that bird; 
whereas, if reared among other trained singing cana- 
ries, the song will develop accordingly. 

For very large-sized birds the Manchesters or Lan- 
cashires are excellent. These are to be had both with 
crests and without them, and with crests so large that 
they cover the eyes. They are handsome, showy birds, 
with full-throated songs, and produce large, handsome 
young. The Norwich canaries are also large, and their 
rich golden-yellow or gold and green tints make them 
very desirable for breeding large, well-colored stock. 

Breeding-Cages and Nests 

The breeding-cage may be of either wood or metal, 
but the brass is easier to keep clean and is free from 
insects, which often find secure hiding-places in the 
crevices of a wooden cage. Moreover, the nests may 
be removed and the cage may be used for singing birds 
when not in use for breeding purposes. For one pair 
of birds the cage should be at least 8 x lo inches, but 
larger cages up to i6 x i8 inches are even better. The 
young birds require plenty of exercise, and a large cage 
affords this and allows them to learn to fly and use their 
wings. Wooden-framed cages with tinned wire and a 
wooden nest platform are convenient for hanging 
against a wall, and if used exclusively for breeding and 
thoroughly disinfected now and then they serve very 
well. The best of these cages are provided with re- 



CANARIES 169 

movable partitions with deep zinc drawers and large 
cups, and have a second door at one end near the nest. 
The nests should be of wire, lined with cotton-wool 
flannel, and deer's hair, tow, horsehair, etc., should 
be provided so that the birds may construct the in- 
terior of the nest to suit themselves. 

Plenty of gravel should be placed in the tray and 
some old plaster from a wall should be crushed and given 
to the birds daily, although crushed oyster or clam 
shells will do equally well. If this apparently small 
matter is attended to you will have little trouble with 
soft-shelled eggs. 

While canaries are breeding their food should con- 
sist of equal parts rape and canary-seed, and every 
other day each pair of birds should be given one third 
of a hard-boiled egg, mixed with a thimbleful of pow- 
dered cracker, to which a little maw or poppy-seed is 
added. Fruit, chickweed, or lettuce should also be 
given daily. 

The birds should now be left as much alone as pos- 
sible. No one should disturb them except to furnish 
fresh food and water, to clean the cage daily, and to 
furnish a bath twice a week. The birds may quarrel 
at first, but unless these family spats are severe a 
divorce is not necessary, and the pair will usually make 
up and forget their differences in a few days. If the 
fights continue and are severe the male should be 
taken away and placed in his own cage. "Absence 
makes the heart grow fonder," and after a few days of 
solitary confinement he may be placed in the female's 



IJO PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

cage, and nine times out of ten there will be no further 
trouble. If the pair still quarrel, they must be really 
divorced for good and all and a new mate tried for 
one or the other. 

Some birds which mate readily and get along well 
enough appear to be in no hurry about commencing 
housekeeping and waste two or three weeks in honey- 
mooning. Even then they often build a nest in the 
morning and tear it to pieces in the afternoon. Do 
not worry over this but feed more fresh egg in the 
afternoon, and if the birds do not fight you will sooner 
or later find they will get busy and build and raise their 
young. 

The first egg is usually laid on the eighth day after 
mating, and each day thereafter another egg is laid, 
until from four to seven eggs are in the nest. Some- 
times the eggs, as fast as laid, will be eaten by the 
birds; this is usually because they are poorly nourished 
or do not receive enough rich food. Give more boiled- 
egg paste and continue rich feeding until the young 
are old enough to eat seeds. If either bird seems in- 
clined to destroy or throw out the eggs they may be 
removed from the nest with a spoon each day as soon 
as laid, and on the afternoon of the day on which the 
third egg is laid the eggs taken from the nest should be 
replaced, as at this time the female will go on the nest 
to lay her fourth egg and will sit closely thereafter 
until the eggs have hatched. The female will sit for 
thirteen days, and the eggs will hatch out in the order 
in which they were laid, one egg a day exactly to the 



CANARIES 171 

hour. If any eggs should fail to hatch on time, let 
the female remain undisturbed for three or four days, 
then remove the eggs that do not hatch. In case none 
of the eggs hatch after a few days' overtime remove 
them all and give a new nest. 

If the male behaves well he may remain with his 
mate while she sits, but if he disturbs her he must be 
placed in his own cage. As a rule, he will sit on the 
eggs when his mate is off, or will feed her as she sits. 
During this time both birds may be given a bath twice 
a week. 

Rearing the Young 

The old birds will feed their young if proper food 
is provided, and the best food for the purpose is the 
boiled-egg-and-cracker paste. In many cases, where 
the old birds are healthy and strong and good parents, 
a second nest may be made and a second laying started, 
while the father continues to feed the first brood. If, 
on the other hand, the father becomes ill-tempered or is 
more attentive to his wife than to the young, it is best 
to separate the old birds until the young can feed by 
themselves and fly about in the cage. They may then 
be placed in another cage and the male returned to his 
mate. 

Birds are often like human beings, especially when 
they are a newly married couple with their first babies, 
and they often feed their young far too much or too 
little. At such times the youngsters may be trans- 
ferred to the attention of an old-maid aunt or a 



172 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

bachelor uncle, who will adopt the brood and use a 
great deal more sense in caring for them than their 
own parents. At times you may be obHged to raise 
the young by hand. If, instead of full crops, plump 
breasts, and fat pot-bellies, the young birds are thin, 
scrawny, or dwarfed, you should commence artificial 
feeding at once. Cut a hard-boiled egg in two, moisten 
the yolk slightly, scrape up some of the egg with a 
sliver of wood, making it very moist, and feed each 
young bird in turn. Usually, however, the old birds 
will feed the young all right if furnished plenty of egg 
paste, apple, chickweed, etc. Sometimes a female 
may '' sweat^^ and mat the plumage of young birds by 
sitting too closely. If this occurs wash the female in 
slightly salt water, afterward rinsing in fresh, warm 
water, and dry her gently and rapidly with a hot, soft 
cloth, after which sprinkle her feathers with sherry 
wine. Meanwhile the male may be placed in an ad- 
joining apartment, where he can feed the mother 
through the wires; and when she is placed in the cage 
he will at once call her and feed her and she will 
quickly recover her good spirits. 

The young birds should be confined to the nest until 
three weeks old, by which time they should be able to 
perch and flutter about. If the mother attempts to 
pull or eat their feathers, the young should be taken 
from her and given to the father in a separate cage, 
where he will care for them as long as they require 
attention. When six weeks of age the young will be 
able to crack and eat soaked rape-seed and may feed 
themselves. 



CANARIES 173 

Young birds of the same age may be kept together 
in one cage for a long time, but if birds of different 
ages are placed together the older ones may pick the 
feathers of their younger relations and injure them. 
Birds ten to twelve weeks old should be fed upon one 
tenth canary-seed and nine tenths rape if they will 
eat it, as this will make them grow faster and they 
will be far stronger and healthier than if given more 
canary-seed. 

As soon as young birds commence to quarrel they 
should be separated, and the young males should be 
placed near a selected songster to learn how to sing; 
for, oddly enough, young birds do not sing naturally 
or inherit their notes any more than a child inherits a 
knowledge of its parents' language. 

Young canaries moult only their body feathers the 
first year and commence to shed them as soon as fully 
feathered — at about six or eight weeks of age. The 
large wing and tail feathers are shed when the birds 
are about one year old. 

Young birds begin to warble or attempt to sing when 
about eight weeks old, and the males may thus be 
selected from the females. 

Diseases 

Canaries, when well cared for and properly fed have 
very few diseases, and most of their ailments arise from 
cold draughts, poor food, and dirty water or cages. 
When a canary is sick or infested with insect pests it 



174 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

will sit puffed up, often remaining on its perch and 
puffing or gasping or hopping about on the bottom of 
its cage, and continually eating. These are usually the 
symptoms of a cold, which should be cured as soon as 
possible. The paste, made from one third of the yolk 
and one third of the white of a hard-boiled egg mashed 
with as much red pepper as will stay on a ten-cent 
piece and with two or three drops of olive-oil thoroughly 
mixed, should be given. Two to six drops of whiskey 
should be added to the drinking water, which should 
be warmed, and the bird should be kept in a quiet, 
warm spot. If the bird will not take the whiskey and 
water use a medicine dropper and drop a little in his 
mouth every two or three hours. A small piece of 
raw, fat salt pork should also be hung in the cage, and 
a fresh piece given daily. 

Loss of Voice. — A bird may lose its voice through a 
cold or by singing too much. In the latter case, dis- 
solve a piece of rock-candy the size of a pea in the 
drinking water, feed the egg paste, and keep the cage 
covered so the bird will not sing. After several days 
the voice will return. 

Hard Breathing or Asthma. — This often results from 
a cold and the same cures should be used, with the 
addition of raw fat salt pork cut into bits and sprinkled 
with red pepper. A teaspoonful of warm milk with 
a little bread and a bit of sponge-cake sopped in sherry 
wine may also be given. The canary-seed should be 
withheld and the rape soaked so that there is no dust 
on it and the hulls are softened. 



CANARIES 175 

Diarrhoea. — This is also caused by colds, by poor or 
mouldy seed, or by dirty drinking water. The remedy 
is to cure the cold, change to better seed, and keep 
water clean and fresh. Use a medicine dropper and 
give the bird three to four drops of olive-oil; put a few 
drops of brandy and a rusty nail in the water and place 
some pulverized chalk in the cage with the gravel. 
If the trouble continues for over twenty-four hours 
place two to four drops of paregoric in the water. 
The cage should be cleaned and fresh gravel paper or 
gravel given at least three times a day. 

Constipation. — This often troubles canaries and may 
be cured usually by four to six drops of castor-oil 
dropped in the bird's mouth or used as an injection. 
Feed apple and freshly grated carrot with a little pul- 
verized sugar, and if it is a severe case put a few drops 
of glycerine in a teaspoonful of warm, soapy water, and 
give as an injection with a dropper. 

Fits and Epilepsy. — These are caused by too rich or 
too much food, too frequent mating, or by severe 
fright. Hold the cage in fresh air and sprinkle the 
bird's head with a few drops of cold water. Placing 
a cage in sunshine often causes severe fits, and in such 
cases smelling-salts may be used to advantage. De- 
crease the rich canary-seed and feed more rape, and 
every second day feed a little cracker soaked in 
milk. 

Inflammation of the Bowels and Rupture. — These dis- 
eases are caused by rich food, sour food, or bad water. 
The symptom is a sort of weakness. The bird sel- 



176 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

dom rises on its feet, but mopes with its body resting 
on the perch and does not sing. Change the diet and 
clean all the cups and the cage. Dip a fine, soft brush 
in spirits of turpentine and paint the inflamed ab- 
domen and treat as for constipation, and add a few 
drops of gum arabic to the drinking water each day. 
The food should be very light- — biscuit soaked in milk 
every three hours — and five to ten drops of brandy 
should be added to the drinking water until strength 
is regained. 

Cramps. — Cramps are produced by a dirty cage or 
too small a cage. Immerse the legs in water as warm 
as the bird can bear; give a larger cage and place two 
drops of laudanum in the drinking water. Do not let 
the bird bathe more than twice a week. 

Pips. — ^This is a small swelling on the bird's rump. 
It should be lanced with a needle and rubbed with 
cold-cream. 

Surfeit. — ^This is a light eruption on the body with 
baldness appearing on the head. Feed only plain rape- 
seed with a piece of apple each day and rub the bald 
spot with a simple ointment. 

Yellow Gall. — This is easily recognized by small 
ulcers or pustules which form around the eyes. A 
change of food is the most important dietary item. If 
the bird has been having plain food change to a richer 
diet or vice versa. Prick or cut the ulcers and rub 
with a strong solution of sugar of lead in water. Bathe 
the ulcers with this solution three or four times a day 
until healed. 



CANARIES 177 

Sore Feet. — Many birds suffer from sore feet, which 
are usually caused by dirty cages or perches or too 
much canary-seed. The feet should be thoroughly 
cleaned by soaking in warm water and wiping dry and 
should then be rubbed with glycerine or some healing 
ointment. Old birds sometimes have sore feet which 
are caused by scaly growths. Anoint the parts with 
cold-cream and, after two or three days of this treat- 
ment, scrape off the scales with the back of knife or 
smooth stick, being careful not to break the under 
skin. After the scales are removed continue the cold- 
cream until thoroughly healed. 

Swollen or Red Feet and Legs. — This usually comes 
from too little green food and too much canary-seed. 
Feed only rape for three to six months and give a 
small piece of apple every da)^ or two, and keep the 
bird out of the sunshine. 

Pulling Feathers. — Some birds pull their feathers 
from the wings or body. This is the result of bad 
blood, and may be cured by feeding rape and apple 
and some good bird tonic or song-restoring compound. 

Growth over Beak. — Another blood trouble requiring 
the same remedy causes a hard growth over the beak. 
This may be touched with vaseline each day until it 
drops off. 

When the claws of a bird grow too long or crooked 
they should be trimmed. If the nails are held up to 
a strong light the veins may be seen, and the portion 
beyond the veins should be cut away with sharp scis- 
sors. If a bird is provided with cuttlefish and gravel 



178 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the bill will seldom become too long, but if it does it 
must be trimmed carefully with sharp scissors and 
scraped smooth with a knife; but it is always better 
to have a regular bird-fancier do this than to attempt 
it yourself. 

Red Mites. — Many birds are terribly troubled with 
red mites. These seem to arrive spontaneously regard- 
less of care. The symptoms are a pufFed-up appearance 
with scratching, shaking, and pecking at the body. 
Place a white cloth, with creases or folds, over the cage 
at night, and if the trouble is red mites some of the 
insects will be found in the folds of the cloth in the 
morning. In that case, remove the hollow ornamental 
knob from the top of the cage, wash it, and fill it with 
insect-powder and replace it. Remove the bird from 
the cage, hold him firmly in your hand, and rub the 
powder well into the feathers. This process should 
be repeated every other day for four times or until 
all the pests are destroyed. If a wooden cage is used 
place the bird in another cage and scald and clean the 
old one with a strong soda solution and revarnish it 
before using again. The red mites when young are 
blackish or dark brown, but after eating the blood of 
the bird they become red. 

Moulting. — Moulting is sometimes a critical process 
with birds. After the first year the birds moult regu- 
larly during July, August, or September, and the 
process lasts from six to ten weeks according to age. 
During this time the birds should be given strong, 
nourishing food and should be kept from draughts. 



CANARIES 179 

If the bird moults at any other time it is a symptom 
of a cold and should be treated accordingly. 

Mice are often a serious menace to canaries. They 
are fond of seeds and appear to admire the birds, and 
if they enter a cage will often remain for hours at a 
time. The visits of these rodents cause a bird to lose 
its HveHness and song and to sit puffed up in a dejected 
manner. Destroy the mice or so hang the cage that 
they cannot reach it. 

The above treatments, diseases, and methods of 
feeding and care apply to nearly all the seed-eating, 
song, and ornamental birds described in the following 
chapter; and where any different treatment, care, or 
food is required it is described in detail. Unless other- 
wise stated, the care and feeding are the same as for 
canaries. 

Various Breeds of Canaries 

Most of the canaries kept in America are raised in 
England or Germany, although many birds are reared 
in this country. The great difference between the 
German and British birds is that the Germans have 
devoted all their energies to rearing song-birds, whereas 
the English breeders have aimed to produce large sizes 
and high colors. The greatest number of German 
canaries are raised in the Harz Mountains and are 
known as "Harz Canaries." They are medium-sized 
birds of various colors but noted everywhere for their 
singing powers. 

Even the Harz Mountain birds are not all equally 



i8o PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

fine songsters, and there is keen rivalry between the 
various breeders to produce the finest singers. 

There are bird shows and singing matches in the 
breeding districts, and prizes and blue ribbons are 
awarded, so that the men noted for producing prize 
winners are soon known far and wide, and buyers from 
all over the world contract for their products. Our 
American buyers often contract for the birds months 
before the eggs from which they are to be raised are 
laid, and two years before the birds will be furnished; 
so that in this business the bird dealer is literally "count- 
ing his chickens before they are hatched"; and many 
times he sells the birds to some customer long before 
the bird itself is in existence, so certain is he of the 
quality of the song which a bird will have when fur- 
nished by a certain breeder. 

Probably the best of the Harz Canaries are bred in 
the neighborhood of the village of Saint Andreasburg, 
and these birds are famous for their soft and varied 
song; and one who has never heard a Saint Andreas- 
burg sing does not realize what bird music really is. 

The Saint Andreasburg Canary 

The Saint Andreasburg Canary usually sings in the 
evening, but if he is wanted as an evening singer his 
cage should be covered and placed in a dark spot for 
two or three hours in the afternoon. This is one of 
the smallest breeds of canaries — from 4^ to 5 inches 
long — and the birds are usually light mealy-yellow or 
yellow and green in color. 



CANARIES l8l 

The Campanini Holden 

The Campanini-Holden Canary is a superior breed 
of the Saint Andreasburg strain, raised and bred by 
the most skilful and successful breeders for Mr. George 
H. Holden, of New York City, who is noted through- 
out the world as an authority on canaries. Many of 
the Holden breed have regular scale songs and a range 
of nearly three octaves, with a wonderful, soft, full, 
melodious voice. 

The English Canaries 

The English Canaries are louder-voiced, larger-sized, 
and brighter-colored than the Germans, but they are 
greatly admired and possess many odd wild-bird notes. 
The Manchester Canaries are long and thick in build 
and are the largest of all canaries. Some have plain 
heads, others have thick, full crests, and the colors 
may be either yellow or green. The all-green crested 
birds are particularly handsome. 

The Norwich breed is not quite so large, but the col- 
ors are much richer, deep gold predominating either 
in solid color or mottled, and the odd cinnamon or 
brown colors are also common. 

The Red Canary 

The Red Canary is produced by breeding from the 
gold or gold and green breeds, and when the young 
are about eight weeks old and commence to moult 
they are fed Cayenne pepper. Some of the imported 



1 82 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

birds are clear Cayenne red, others are a combination 
of green and red. The birds will lose their red color 
when they moult if not fed red food, which is now sold 
by all bird dealers; and this may also be mixed with 
egg for coloring young birds of ordinary colors. 

The Gold-Spangled Lizard Canary 

Gold-Spangled Lizard Canaries originated in En- 
gland, and when well bred are very beautiful. The 
heads are capped with bright gold and a continuous 
line of spangles runs from the neck down the back. 
Each spangle is olive-green with a clear gold edging, 
and the pattern is very decided and regular. The 
Silver-Spangled variety is similar, but the light edgings 
are silvery white instead of golden-yellow. 

Many very beautiful canaries are so-called "mules," 
obtained by crossing the canary with some other bird. 
The "Goldfinch-Canary Mule" is a beautiful bird — 
often mostly snowy white with a red face like his gold- 
finch father, and with the same brilliant golden wings. 
These mules also have a charming song with the com- 
bined canary and goldfinch notes. This particular 
mule is secured by mating a male goldfinch with a light, 
clear-yellow canary of very pure breed. Other mules 
are obtained by mating female canaries with male lin- 
nets, siskins, bullfinches, chaffinches, and other finches. 
Some of these cross-bred birds are wonderfully striking 
and handsome, and some have songs which far surpass 
those of either of their parents. 



CHAPTER XIII 

SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 

Cage.s and Aviaries 

ASIDE from canaries, which are the commonest 
of all cage-birds, there are a great number of 
exceedingly beautiful and attractive song and 
ornamental birds which are readily kept in cages and 
make charming pets. 

Some of these are both beautiful in plumage and 
pleasing in song, others are lovely songsters but dull 
or modestly colored, while still other species are hand- 
some or brilHant in color but lacking in musical attain- 
ments. 

Many of these little creatures thrive and breed in 
small cages, either in pairs or with several individuals 
together; and many of them are as easy to rear, being 
as hardy and as suitable for home pets, as canaries. 

A great many of the more ornamental species are 
very small and lively, and to thrive best and exhibit 
their brilliant colors to greatest advantage they should 
be kept in large cages or aviaries. They usually get 
along well together, and a large cage filled with a va- 
riety of these feathered pets is a beautiful and attrac- 
tive thing. 

183 



1 84 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

For an ordinary room a large brass cage which will 
accommodate six to ten small birds will be quite large 
enough; but if a larger aviary is desired it may be con- 
structed of a light wooden framework covered with 
wire netting. It is surprising how a fairly large bird 
can so reduce its size as to squeeze through the open- 
ing in a wire netting, and you should be careful to use 
a netting with a mesh small enough to prevent the very 
smallest of your pets from squeezing through. 

In constructing a large cage the floor should be ar- 
ranged in such a way as to be easily cleaned. A large 
zinc tray should be provided, and this should slide 
readily into the cage over a permanent wooden or 
metal floor. Suitable openings or stands for drinking 
and food cups should also be provided, and the cage 
should be fitted with a number of perches or the branch 
of a tree, for most of these ornamental birds love abun- 
dant exercise and fly and hop about incessantly. 

Flying-Cages 

If the bird lover is fortunate enough to have a warm 
outbuilding, or even a room in the house which he can 
devote to his pets, he may fit up a large "flying-cage." 
Such a device may be made by merely partitioning off" 
a portion of the room with wire netting, and the cage 
may be large enough to permit the owner to enter for 
the purpose of cleaning it. 

Most of these ornamental birds become very tame, 
and after a short time will not be at all disturbed at 
your presence within their home. The floor of a flying- 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 185 

cage should be made tight and should be covered with 
a good layer of gravel, and potted plants, palms, and 
small shrubs may be introduced. 

A large dish or vessel of water may be placed in the 
cage and arranged to imitate a little pool, and this will 
serve for a bathtub for the birds. Such an artificial 
pool may be connected with a pipe from the water 
supply with an overflow leading to a drain or outside 
the building, and a constant supply of fresh, clear water 
may be thus provided. 

In a large flying-cage it will not be necessary to re- 
new the gravel every day, but once a week or so the 
gravel should be raked over, the foul upper portion 
thrown away, and a new layer placed in the cage. If 
the cage is not large enough to admit your body you 
can easily arrange it in such a way that you can reach 
inside to remove the plants and renew the sand, etc. 

The cage should be well equipped with natural 
branches, perches, swings, etc., and a few hollow 
branches or stumps should be furnished for nesting 
sites. Many of the small cage-birds will nest and 
raise their young in such a cage if provided with suit- 
able nest material, such as tow, hair, wool, cotton, 
feathers, etc., and one of the most interesting features 
of a large aviary or flying-cage is to watch the little 
pets building their nests and teaching their babies to 
fly. Some of the hollow branches should be fastened 
in the upper part of the cage, while others should be 
placed close to the floor. If real, natural, hollow limbs 
are not easily acquired you can readily make artificial 



1 86 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

ones from boxes covered with natural bark, or a sec- 
tion of a branch or small tree may be split lengthwise, 
each half hollowed out, and the two pieces fastened to- 
gether to form a hollow branch. 

Some of the birds breed in hollows, others on the 
ground, others among grass or low plants, and others 
in nests constructed among the branches of bushes or 
trees, and materials for the various types of nests 
should be furnished. 

The size of the cage is immaterial and should be 
governed by the number and kind of birds you keep 
in it. If you devote the cage to the small foreign 
finches, little paroquets, etc., a cage 6 feet high by 4 
feet square will hold a great many; but if you wish 
larger birds, such as troopials, thrushes, cardinals, and 
cockatiels, you must either have a larger cage or fewer 
birds. It is better to have too few rather than too 
many birds, and in a large cage even a few birds will 
show well, for they fly and move about so rapidly that 
there appear to be a great many more than there 
really are. 

In selecting the birds for an aviary or flying-cage 
you must choose those which get along well together. 
Never try to place any of the jays, blackbirds, crows, 
magpies, or orioles with the small finches, for the larger 
species will often destroy the nests and eggs of the 
others or will kill the young. Nearly all the members 
of the finch and sparrow family do well in a cage to- 
gether; and blackcaps, larks, Japanese Robins, and 
thrushes, as well as small paroquets, will usually get 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 187 

along peaceably with the finches. It is wisest, however, 
to have separate cages for different classes of birds. 
Thus finches and sparrows may be kept in one cage, 
paroquets and love-birds in another, thrushes and 
other soft-billed birds in another, and the orioles, 
blackbirds, and other medium-sized species in a 
fourth. 

Most dealers in birds can tell you which species will 
do well together, but in many cases actual experiment 
is the only means of ascertaining which species will 
dwell in peace in one cage. If any member of the com- 
munity shows signs of creating a disturbance or quarrel- 
ling with the other inmates of the cage, it should be 
removed at once and either traded for some other 
bird or kept in a separate cage. 

It is rather difficult at times to capture a bird in a 
large cage without injuring it or frightening its com- 
panions, and it is best to use a soft net on a long, light 
handle, and to place this over the bird at dusk or after 
the birds have gone to roost. The net may be used to 
hold the bird from fluttering until you can grasp it 
in your hand, but most birds will become "finger tame" 
and may be taught to come to you at a call. Every 
lover of cage-birds should try to have his pets so tame 
that they will readily perch on his shoulder or hand, 
or will fly to him when called. 

Training Birds 

This is a matter easily accomplished, but patience 
is needed; and if you are not patient and persevering 



1 88 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

you had better not attempt to tame birds, or, indeed, 
any other pets. 

Many birds, through natural individuality, will 
never become tame and should be exchanged for birds 
of a more tractable or intelligent character. Never- 
theless, you should not condemn the bird too soon 
but should persevere until thoroughly convinced that 
it will not become tame. When such an obstinate in- 
dividual does become trained it will prove far more 
docile and intelligent than many others which are easier 
to tame in the first place, and it will have a greater 
affection for the person who tamed it. 

Some birds are far easier to train than others, and 
in the following descriptions of various cage-birds the 
species particularly adapted to taming and training 
are designated. 

Whenever possible, young birds should be purchased; 
they are easier to tame and train, are healthier, and will 
live longer. Do not hesitate to buy a bird with worn, 
ragged, or broken plumage if it appears healthy, in- 
telligent, and tame. Feathers are transient things, 
and if given proper care and food and ample room the 
bedraggled creature will blossom out in all its natural 
glory after the next moult. 

A very good method of training a bird to perch upon 
the finger or to fly to your hand is to tease it with a 
soft feather through the open door of the cage. At 
first the bird will flutter and be frightened at the in- 
trusion but presently will attack the feather, and as 
soon as it pecks at it it should be withdrawn. After 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 189 

this has been repeated a few times, try your finger in 
the same way and gradually withdraw it more slowly 
each time. Probably the bird will follow the finger 
from the cage, imagining that its attacks are driving 
it out, and very soon it will perch upon the finger itself. 
A few choice seeds or bits of some favorite food may 
be placed on the hand near the finger, and very quickly 
the pet will learn that each time it sees the outstretched 
finger it will get a treat if it perches on it. 

If on each occasion some peculiar call or whistle is 
given the bird will associate this with the food and will 
readily come to its finger perch when called. From 
this it is an easy matter to induce the bird to perch on 
shoulder, head, or arm, or to take food from lips or 
hand. In a surprisingly short time the bird will come 
from a distant part of the room or house at the call, 
and in time it may be taken out-of-doors and called 
when wanted. It is not advisable, however, to take 
even the best-trained birds with undipped wings into 
the open air in mating time, for at that season they 
often develop a fondness for a wild life and disappear 
never to return. 

Another method of training birds is to cut away 
some of the long wing-feathers, as shown in the illus- 
tration, so that they cannot really fly but can flutter 
safely to a perch or to the ground, and in such a way 
that the wings when closed will not show the mutila- 
tion. 

Holding the bird firmly in the hand, smear a little 
oil of bergamot over the nostrils and place the bird 



I90 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

on your finger. The oil will have a sort of stupefying 
or quieting effect on the bird which will not injure it 
in the least and is only temporary, and it will prob- 
ably remain on the finger readily. If it flutters off 
replace it, and keep this up until the effects of the 
oil have passed off, by which time the bird will usually 
be content to remain perched on the finger if not dis- 
turbed or frightened. Just at this time a few hemp- 
seeds or a little green food or apple should be given 
it, and the operation repeated daily until the bird 
will perch on the finger and take food from the hand 
or lip without using the oil. 

Other birds are more readily tamed by placing them 
in a small cage with a door large enough to admit your 
hand. Remove all food and in two or three hours 
gently open the door and place a small seed dish inside 
the cage with your hand. The bird may flutter wildly 
and refuse the food, or it may eye it hungrily, hesitate 
a moment, and then hop down and eat the seeds while 
you hold the dish. 

If it refuses to do this and flutters, remove the dish 
and try again a few hours later, and in most cases the 
second or third trial will find the bird quite hungry 
enough to eat the food from the dish held in your hand 
if you do not move it too rapidly or suddenly. 

After this much has been accomplished, place a little 
seed in the palm of your hand and offer it. As soon 
as it takes this, try holding a finger in a convenient 
position for the bird to perch on when eating. Very 
soon the little chap will learn that your appearance or 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 191 

your hand signifies food and will welcome you accord- 
ingly, and you will have little trouble in taming it. 

Birds which are intended primarily for pets should be 
fed frequently by hand, should be talked to and petted, 
and always given close attention, and should be kept 
on your table or close to you where they will become 
accustomed to your presence and will grow very 
familiar. 

Aside from merely taming birds or teaching them to 
feed from your hand, you can train many species to 
perform interesting tricks, such as firing off a toy can- 
non, ringing a bell for food, drawing up food or water 
to the cage, etc. 

The last trick is taught by having a cage with a 
projecting bow window with a small hole, and across 
this opening a narrow bridge of wood is placed with 
a small chain attached to it. The other end of the 
chain or cord is fastened to a small bucket about the 
size of a thimble. When the bird is thirsty the bucket 
should be filled with water and drawn up and the bird 
should be allowed to drink. It may then be lowered 
and pulled part way up. 

By gradually increasing the length of chain between 
the bridge and the bucket the bird will soon discover 
that to drink it must pull the chain into the cage and 
hold it there, and it will of its own accord learn to 
hold the chain in position with its feet. 

The bird may be taught to ring a bell by placing the 
bell in a corner of the cage with its string near the 
perch. Leave the bird until hungry, and as you place 



192 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the food in its cup ring the bell. It will soon realize 
that the food and bell are associated and will learn 
to ring it itself. If at any time it accidentally rings 
the bell, be sure to give it some dainty morsel and it 
will learn very rapidly. 

Goldfinches, canaries, and Java Sparrows which have 
been taught these tricks are often sold, but any boy 
or girl can easily train them without much trouble. 

The European Goldfinch 

The common European Goldfinch is one of the most 
satisfactory cage-birds. It is a splendid songster, is 
highly ornamental, and is one of the most intelligent 
and readily trained of all birds. The goldfinch is a 
hardy, long-lived bird, and specimens have been known 
to live for twenty years in one family. In color they 
are very attractive creatures, with a scarlet face, white 
cheeks, black head, and white breast, brilliant golden 
and black wings, black and white tail, and a golden- 
brown back. 

In a wild state they feed upon various seeds, and in 
confinement they should be fed on equal parts of maw, 
hemp, rape, and canary seed. 

Young birds, however, have soft bills and should 
have the hard canary and rape seed soaked to soften 
the hulls, until they are two years old. Unlike most 
wild birds, the goldfinch does not mope or become 
dispirited even when captured fully grown, but will at 
once feed and act as happy and contented in its cage 
as though bred and raised in captivity. 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 193 

The goldfinch breeds readily in confinement, and the 
majority of the birds sold were reared in cages. The 
goldfinch sings freely throughout the year. Its song 
is in rather a high key and consists of numerous war- 
bles, trills, and twitters which have a decidedly charm- 
ing and wild character, and while singing the bird is 
in constant motion. 

Goldfinches mate in April and require the same care 
in breeding as canaries, but the birds used for song- 
sters should be kept only in square cages. It may be 
well to mention in this connection the fact that cer- 
tain kinds of birds, and even certain individuals of a 
species, require certain forms of cages in order to thrive 
and be content. 

One often sees a caged bird that constantly flutters 
its wings, keeps looking upward or bending back, or 
lighting on the sides of its cage. This always indicates 
that the cage is unsuitable, and another form of cage 
should be tried. 

Many birds will not be content in a cage with an 
open wire top but must have a cage with a wooden 
or solid roof. If no roofed cage is available a paper or 
cloth may be fastened over the wire top, and in large 
cages containing a variety of birds the roof may be 
partly covered with some opaque substance to afford 
shelter for such birds as desire a covered cage. 

The Bullfinch 

These delicately colored, handsome birds are natives 
of Europe and are great favorites as cage-birds. Al- 



194 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

though they have no attractive natural song, they pos- 
sess a wonderful power of accurately imitating any 
tune or song which they hear. Their voice is very 
sweet and flute-like, and the bird has a wonderful 
amount of execution and technic. 

In some parts of Germany many bullfinches are 
taught to whistle and are sold throughout the world. 
The teaching and rearing of these birds are carried on 
principally by tailors, weavers, shoemakers, and other 
tradesmen who are confined mainl}^ to rooms or small 
shops and can thus give their pets constant attention. 
The tune is whistled to the birds several times each 
day, in the morning and evening, and great care is 
taken invariably to whistle the tune in exactly the 
same key while the bird is kept in a darkened place 
and is not allowed to hear any other tune. 

These birds are taken when young and are reared 
by hand. They are always tame, eat readily from the 
fingers, and are frequently taught several airs before 
their training is considered complete. 

Some of these educated bullfinches are valued at 
hundreds of dollars. In fact, while an ordmary un- 
educated bird may be purchased at three or four dollars, 
a bird which pipes a single tune is worth twenty-five 
dollars or more, and the value rapidly increases with 
the number of songs and range of notes the bird has 
been taught. 

In color the bullfinch is very attractive, the breast 
being soft reddish or salmon, with a delicate grayish 
back and blackish head. The plumage is very soft and 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 195 

silky, and the bird always has a sleek, well-kept appear- 
ance. 

The bullfinch should be fed mainly on rape, with a 
little canary-seed and a few hemp-seeds now and then. 
Fresh apple and green food should be given occasionally, 
but sweets, candy, and cake should never be fed if the 
bird is kept for its song. 

The nails of this bird grow very rapidly and require 
cutting twice a year; but if handled carefully this is 
easily done, for bullfinches are always docile, gentle 
creatures, with quiet, lovable dispositions. Their dis- 
eases are not many, and the treatment of them is sim- 
ilar to that in the case of the canary. 

The Siskin 

The European Siskin, a member of the sparrow or 
finch family and a favorite cage-bird abroad, is rapidly 
becoming well known in America. 

The siskin is a rather dull-colored bird of a yellowish- 
green tint, marked and shaded with blackish and with 
a black crown on its head. It is an extremely neat, 
trim little bird with a short, low song. 

Siskins possess the power of quickly imitating the 
notes of other birds and are easily tamed and edu- 
cated. Their proper care, feeding, and treatment when 
ill are similar to those in the case of the goldfinch, 
but as they are apt to overfeed care should be taken 
to limit the amount of food they receive. 



196 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

The Chaffinch 

This is another of the European wild finches which is 
widely kept as a cage-bird. The plumage is soft and 
sleek and attractively colored with yellowish-gray, 
white, and black. The chaffinch is a very gentle, easily 
tamed bird, and will readily learn many tricks. The 
natural notes, though soft and mellow, are not very 
attractive, but the birds vary a great deal in the variety 
and range of their notes. 

Among the Germans chaffinches are very highly 
prized, and many German workmen will live upon the 
simplest and most meagre fare in order to accumulate 
enough money to purchase a chaffinch. 

In many parts of Europe regular contests or singing 
matches of chaffinches are held, and the bird that sings 
the greatest number of perfect notes within a designated 
time wins the prize. 

Their general care and food are the same as for the 
canary, but in the spring a limited amount of hemp- 
seed should be given to induce better song. 

The Linnet 

The term "linnet" is applied to several species of 
American and European finches, but the cage-bird of 
that name is the "Rose Linnet" of Europe, which in 
its various stages of growth and plumage is known as a 

gray, yellow, or green Imnet. 

The first year the bird is grayish with no red on the 
head, but at the second moulting yellow feathers de- 




1^ 



^ 



-V. F' 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL BIRDS. 



1. Lavender Finch. 

2. Crimson-Eared VVaxbill. 

3. St. Helena Waxbill. 

4. Avadavat. 



5. Cutthroat Sparrow. 

6. Orange-Cheek Waxbill. 

7. Japanese Robin. 

8. Red Linnet. 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 197 

velop on the breast, and in the third year the forehead 
and sides of breast become red, while the grayish color 
gives way to a ferruginous tint. Later in life the bril- 
liant colors again give place to dull browns and grays. 

In confinement this bird shows many unusual and 
unexpected color varieties, and one cannot judge of 
the bird's age by its plumage. 

It is a beautiful songster of a docile disposition, very 
hardy and easily tamed, and a constant singer. It is 
fond of bathing both in water and sand and should be 
given a water bath daily and furnished with abundant 
fine gravel. The care, food, and treatment for diseases 
are the same as for the canary, except that a few hemp- 
seeds now and then maintain a linnet in better song 
than when plain rape and canary seed are fed. 

Brazilian Cardinal 

This is a very handsome tropical bird, which is 
among the finest of cage-birds. The colors are very 
striking, being dark-gray on the back, with the lower 
parts of body white; the head, crest, cheeks, and 
chest are blood-red or orange-red, and the wings and 
tail nearly black. 

In addition to its attractive plumage, the Brazilian 
Cardinal is a charming songster, possessing a flute-like 
whistling note much like that of the common Virginia 
Cardinal of the United States. 

This bird should be fed on unhulled rice, canary-seed, 
a little hemp and sunflower-seed, an occasional piece 
of apple or banana, and any insects that it will eat. It 



198 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

is fond of bathing and is very active and long-lived and 
subject to few diseases. 

The Java Sparrow 

These charming little sparrows are the cheapest of 
all cage-birds and may usually be purchased for a 
dollar or a dollar and a half apiece. Although a Java 
may occasionally be found that really sings, yet, as a 
rule, they are very silent birds and are kept because of 
their sleek, satin-like plumage, affectionate disposition, 
docility, and the ease with which they learn to perform 
many tricks. 

Unlike most small birds, the Java Sparrows will per- 
form their tricks at command. They are very affec- 
tionate, and where a pair or more are kept together 
they spend most of their time dressing one another's 
plumage. 

White Java Sparrows are a good deal more expensive 
than the gray ones but are very attractive on account 
of their snowy plumage and pink bills. They add a 
finishing touch to an aviary or flying-cage, and show 
off the more brilliantly colored plumage of other birds 
by their contrast. Java Sparrows have an odd habit 
of facing each other and chirping and dancing along 
the perch with bowed heads in a sort of bird minuet 
which is very comical. 

They are long-lived birds, free from most diseases, 
and should be fed on millet and canary seed, with un- 
hulled rice or "paddy," when it can be procured. 
These birds thrive well in very small cages, as they are 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 199 

quiet and deliberate and seldom mar or wear their 
sleek feathers. They breed readily in confinement 
and are careful and affectionate parents. 

Finches 

Under this name bird-fanciers include a very great 
number of charming little birds of various hues and 
sizes; some notable for plumage alone, others for their 
songs, and others for combined beauty of feather and 
song. Among them we may find almost every imag- 
inable color and combination of colors, for they come 
from various parts of the world. Gray, brown, coal- 
black, blue, turquoise, green, red, white, yellow, fawn, 
and many other shades occur among them, and a large 
cage or aviary filled with an assortment of fancy finches 
is a beautiful sight. 

Most of the species get along nicely together, and 
one may often see a cage with two or three dozen of the 
little birds sitting side by side and constantly caressing 
and preening one another. They breed very readily 
and make nests in which several cuddle together for 
shelter and warmth in cold weather. 

There are so many species of birds included in this 
group that it is impossible to mention them all, and 
only the more common and desirable varieties can be 
described. 

Among the most striking of the fancy finches are the 
"zvaxbills.'" These are attractive little birds with red, 
wax-like beaks. 

The commonest variety is the Sai7it Helena Waxbill, 



200 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

an African species that is imported in large numbers. 
The beak, hke that of the other so-called "waxbills," 
is bright red; a dark-red streak passes through the eye 
and there is a shade of red on the belly. The rest of 
the plumage is grayish-brown, but each feather is 
striped with delicate, blackish, wavy lines, which give 
the birds a peculiar soft and silky appearance. 

The Orange-Cheek Waxhill is another smooth little 
bird with a gray head and neck and brown throat and 
waxy beak. 

The Zehra Finch or Orange-Breasted Waxhill is one of 
the smallest of cage-birds, being scarcely three inches 
in length and striped with dark and light colors with 
a dull orange patch on each side of the head. 

The Crimson-Eared Waxhill or ^'Cordon Bleu'' is an- 
other African bird of great beauty. The male is a good 
songster and often sings a low, crooning song to him- 
self. This bird has a peculiar habit of singing with a 
bit of twig, straw, or twine in his beak, and with such 
an object will hop about and sing for hours at a time. 

Another group of finches known as "7iuns" includes 
several very attractive birds which should be in every 
aviary. 

Nuns are known as '' Black-and-White-CappedJ' or 
^^ African Manikins,'" and as ^'Japanese Nuns' 
There are also '^ Brown," " Brozvn-and-White," and 
" Yellow-and-White" Nuns, the name ''nun" being ap- 
plied to any of the various finches having a white, 
yellow, or black head and a body of another color. 
The white-capped species have brown or black bodies, 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 20I 

while the Japanese have cinnamon and white plumage. 
They are all very tame, easily trained birds, and good 
songsters. 

Avadavats are common cage-birds found wild in In- 
dia and are recognized by their fiery-red head and 
breast and white-tipped brown feathers of the sides. 
The beak is red with a black upper mandible, and the 
tail is also black. 

The Gray-Blue Finch has a charming canary-like 
song with many of the wild, rollicking notes of the 
bobolink, and will rear its young in the month of 
November — the spring of the regions south of the 
equator. 

Quaker Birds or Silver-Bills are pretty warbling song- 
sters with a queer habit of dancing when singing. 
They are very affectionate and spend a great deal of 
their time caressing one another. 

The Chestnut Finch has a rich brown body with 
white tail-coverts and black tail, while the Magpie Fifich 
is beautifully marked with contrasting patches of brown, 
white, and with a bottle-green head. 

The Cutthroat Finch or Cutthroat Sparrow is a striking 
species from Africa of a grayish-brown color spangled 
with white spots, and with a deep crimson patch or 
"gash" across the throat from which the bird takes 
its name. 

Another strikingly colored finch is the Diamond Bird 
or Diamond Sparrow of Australia, with a white stomach 
and sides of coal-black decorated with diamond-shaped 
white spots. This bird becomes very tame and can 



202 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

be allowed perfect freedom. It is very fond of catch- 
ing flies and will spend hours pursuing them in a win- 
dow. 

The Cuban Finch is a coal-black, satiny bird, while 
the Saffron Finch is brilliant yellow. Among the other 
attractive finches may be mentioned the Fire Finch, 
Bishop Finch, Little Doctor, White Nun, Strawberry 
Finch, Spice Bird, etc. 

All of these finches may be kept together in an aviary, 
and such birds as canaries, goldfinches, linnets, bull- 
finches, chaffinches, siskins, nonpareils, Java Sparrows, 
paroquets, love-birds, cardinals, and most of the other 
small birds may be kept with them safely. 

These fancy finches eat millet and canary-seed, with 
fresh greens, apples, and insects. Care should be taken 
to keep them warm and protected from draughts. 
They love sunshine and will bask contentedly in the 
hottest sun. They should bathe every other day, and 
Cayenne pepper should be sprinkled on the sand of 
the cage once or twice a week. Otherwise their care 
and feeding is similar to that recommended for canaries 
and it should always be remembered that all hard- 
billed birds should be provided with cuttlefish bone. 

Soft-Billed Birds 

Nearly all small cage-birds may be divided into 
two general classes, commonly known as ''Hard-Billed 
Birds'' and '' Soft- Billed Birds." The former class con- 
tains all the various sparrows, finches, and other seed- 
eating birds, while the latter class contains the thrushes, 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 203 

warblers, mocking-birds, blackbirds, and all insectiv- 
orous and partially insectivorous birds or, in fact, any 
bird which does not live exclusively on seeds. 

A great many of our most charming song-birds and 
many of the most beautiful ornamental birds belong 
in the soft-billed section, and these birds require very 
different treatment and care from the so-called hard- 
billed birds already described. 

Most of these birds require large, roomy cages and 
great cleanliness and regularity in feeding and bathing. 

The food for the soft-billed or "long-billed" birds 
should consist of a mixed animal and vegetable diet, 
and to provide this is not quite as easy as to feed the 
simple seeds required by hard-billed species. Now- 
adays every dealer in birds and bird supplies keeps 
prepared bird food on hand, and the dry, light-gray 
"mocking-bird food" should be the staple diet for all 
soft-billed cage-birds. This food is mixed with grated 
raw carrot and a little water and may be fed in this 
state; or, better still, with a thimbleful of ants' eggs 
added. 

During moulting time fresh fruit, especially grated 
sweet apple, is excellent, and a little green food and 
fruit are relished at all times. 

Meal-worms, which may be purchased at any bird 
store or may be easily raised at home in old meal or 
grain, are very useful in feeding soft-billed birds; but 
they are rich food and should be fed sparingly, say 
two or three worms daily. To raise a supply of these 
worms, place a quantity of bran or meal in a jar or 



204 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

tin box and place a few meal-worms in it. Cover the 
opening with a thick cloth and moisten this from 
time to time. The worms will breed rapidly, and if 
not disturbed you will have thousands of worms on 
hand in a few months. 

During the warm months earthworms, spiders, grass- 
hoppers, and other insects will be relished and should 
be fed freely. 

A good supply of insect food may be prepared for 
winter use by gathering flies, grasshoppers, spiders, ants, 
beetles, moths, etc., and tying them in large paper 
bags and allowing them to dry in a shady spot. 

When these insects are required for the birds they 
may be freshened and softened by pouring boiling 
water over them, and they will then prove as satisfac- 
tory and palatable to the birds as if freshly killed. 

Berries of all kinds may be fed, and when fresh ber- 
ries cannot be obtained dried currants and raisins 
soaked overnight and wiped dry will prove very ac- 
ceptable. 

Many soft-billed birds are subject to diseases, but 
these are usually easily cured. If the feathers on the 
bird seem loose and ruffled but it is otherwise healthy, 
give less insect food and more green food. If the bird 
mopes and seems stupid, feed a few large, plump spiders, 
and if it refuses to eat examine its tongue. This may 
be covered with a hard, horny scale, which must be 
removed or the bird will die. Great care must be 
used in taking off the growth; it should be done in 
this way: 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 205 

Hold the bird on its back, grasping it firmly with 
one hand so it cannot struggle or flutter, and with the 
finger nail of the other hand very gently peel the scale 
off the tongue. 

Diarrhoea is readily known by the condition of the 
bird's droppings, which will be watery and greenish; 
and a rusty nail should at once be placed in its drink- 
ing water, and fruit and insect food should be with- 
held for a few days. 

Constipation is cured by feeding more fruit and in- 
sects. 

During early spring many birds are attacked by 
Mating Fever, the symptoms being melancholy, rough 
feathers, and lack of care in preening; and in many 
cases it causes them to pine and die. This only hap- 
pens where birds are kept singly, and in most cases it 
can be cured by changing their cage or by placing it in 
a new position, especially near a window. 

Lice are a great nuisance on many soft-billed birds, 
especially the mocking-birds, and as they injure and 
annoy the bird they should be eliminated at once. To 
do this, steep some fine-cut chewing tobacco in water 
and, after diluting this to a very weak solution, wash the 
bird thoroughly with it, being particular to thoroughly 
wet the under sides of the wings and the sides of the 
body. Then place the bird in a fresh, clean cage with 
a white cloth over the top. The lice will desert the bird 
and crawl up on the cloth, where they may be destroyed. 
German or Persian insect-powder may also be used in 
the same way. 



2o6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Clean the old cage with boiHng water and lye before 
replacing the bird and see that the cage and perches 
are kept absolutely clean at all times. 

Give the bird a bath daily, placing the bathtub in 
the cage at a certain hour and removing it just as 
soon as the bird has bathed. 

Sugar, candy, daily fruit and green food, too much 
rich food and meat are all bad for birds; and the food 
should be mixed fresh and placed in clean vessels each 
day. 

Where birds are very badly affected with constipa- 
tion it is often necessary to give an injection of oil. 
This may be done by using a medicine dropper and 
dropping a little sweet-oil on the vent, or a coarse knit- 
ting-needle dipped in oil may be inserted into the pas- 
sage slightly. If a spider is then forced down the bird's 
throat and it is compelled to fly a short distance 
immediate relief will generally follow. 

All of these directions apply equally well to all the 
soft-billed birds, and where particular food or care is 
required for a certain species it will be noted under 
the description of the bird. 

The Nightingale 

This splendid songster, the most famous of European 
song-birds, possesses a wonderfully melodious and har- 
monious song. It is justly famed, but nevertheless 
it does not excel several American birds in the sweet- 
ness or power of its voice. 

Unfortunately, most of the wild songsters do not 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 207 

thrive in captivity, whereas the nightingale does; and 
this is the reason the nightingale is more often seen in 
cages than other birds which are its equal in musical 
ability. 

Even nightingales vary in the quality of voice and 
song, and among birds of the species are found good, 
medium, and poor singers. 

Formerly most caged nightingales had been trapped 
fully grown, and these were difficult to care for, were 
timid, and gave little song. To-day the nightingales 
sold by reputable dealers are birds taken from the 
nests when very young and reared by hand in Italy 
and Germany. These are very tame and will usually 
feed from the fingers and are constant songsters, fully as 
healthy and happy in cages as in their woodland homes. 

Good nightingales with fine songs are highly prized 
by their owners, especially in Europe, and Mr. George 
Holden, the well-known authority and dealer in cage- 
birds, tells a story of a caged nightingale he found in 
Turin, Italy. Mr. Holden says: "He was hanging 
out-of-doors in front of a very small inn. When I 
asked if the bird was for sale the owner replied: 'Oh, 
yes.' Then he took a slip of paper, consulted his wife, 
made a long column of figures and, adding them up, 
said: 'Fifteen thousand francs.' Asked for an ex- 
planation, he replied: 'The bird alone cannot be sold; 
you must pay for the house and land and the wife, too, 
for she could not live without the bird.' I admired 
the woman's love for the bird but not intensely enough 
to warrant my owning both." 



2o8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

The Blackcap 

This is another charming European warbler with a 
song equalhng in many respects that of the nightin- 
gale. It is a constant singer, and its notes are poured 
forth throughout the entire year during the whole day, 
except in the moulting season. This bird is a good 
mimic and readily imitates the notes of other birds 
and frequently exactly reproduces the song of the 
nightingale if kept where it can hear it. 

The ordinary song of the blackcap is full, sweet, 
deep, and loud, enriched with a marvellous variety of 
oily, silvery notes, long, soft quavers and tremolos that 
sink gradually to the lowest of bird notes until one 
imagines that silence will follow, when suddenly the song 
swells into a perfect burst of melody, making the whole 
house ring with the liquid music. In song the blackcap 
puts every muscle and effort of its tiny body into the 
music, distending its throat and quivering all over. 

The blackcap is a much prettier bird than the dull- 
colored nightingale. It has an olive-gray back and 
wings, silvery gray throat and breast, white belly, and 
jet-black crown. 

The only peculiar disease of the blackcap is tender 
feet, with swellings or warts. This is easily cured by 
applying cold-cream frequently. 

Skylark 

This is still another famous European song-bird, in 
reality more noteworth}^ for its manner of singing 
while in flight than for the superior quality of its notes. 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 209 

In captivity the skylark readily imitates the notes 
of other birds and will learn tunes, and in addition 
sings its own song freely through half the year. An 
easily tamec^ bird, it soon consents to eat from its 
owner's hand. 

Song-Thrush 

The European thrush is often kept as a cage-bird 
and is a splendid, melodious songster with a more power- 
ful song than most other song-birds. It is attractive 
in its russet plumage and speckled breast and, when 
well cared for and in a proper cage, will sing eight or 
nine months in the year. 

A large, gravel-strewn cage must be used for the 
thrush, and it requires plenty of water for drinking 
and bathing; but the bathtub should be removed as 
soon as used, as otherwise the bird will continue to 
hop about in it and will be liable to cramps. 

Keep the food and water on the outside of the cage 
when possible and look out for constipation, which is 
its most common disease. The male thrush may be 
easily distinguished by its song and has a wonderful 
knack of imitating tunes played on wind-instruments or 
whistled to him. 

Blackbird 

The blackbird commonly kept in cages is the Euro- 
pean Blackbird and is in reality a species of thrush, 
whereas our so-called American Blackbirds are members 
of the starling family. 



2IO PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

The European Blackbird is a splendid songster, while 
the American Blackbirds are destitute of real songs, 
although the meadow-lark and oriole, which are closely 
related, are splendid singers. The European Blackbird 
is pure velvety black in color and is easily recognized 
by the orange-yellow bill. Its song resembles that of 
the European Thrush but is more flute-like in tone. 

The blackbird is noted for its ability to learn a 
whistled tune and never forgets a tune once learned. 
As it imitates each note, key, and variation in the mi- 
nutest way, great care should be taken to teach the air 
correctly, for any mistake will be indelibly impressed 
upon its memory and will be repeated exactly. 

This bird will also learn to imitate the notes of other 
birds, to crow like a cock, cackle like a hen, and gobble 
like a turkey. 

It is very fond of its bath and should be given a 
daily tub in the sunshine, but care should be taken to 
keep its cage dry or cramps will result. 

It is a long-lived bird and frequently lives for twelve 
or fifteen years in captivity. 

English Robin 

This charming little bird is very popular in Europe 
as a cage-bird, and in captivity is hvely and attrac- 
tive. It is readily tamed and can be allowed the free- 
dom of a room or house. 

Its song is sweet and warbling, for the European 
Robin is a true warbler, whereas the American Robin 
is a thrush. The robin is fond of bathing and should 






MY 




.Jt^^M 


> wA 




• if 




1. Black Cap. 

2. English Robin. 



CAGE BIRDS. 

3. Siskin. 

4. Java Sparrow. 



5. Skylark. 

6. Song Thrush. 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 21 1 

be given a daily bath, but when loose in a room care 
should be taken not to leave a large vessel of water 
within reach, as the bird is likely to attempt a bath 
and in its efforts may be drowned. 

Japanese Robin 

This beautiful bird, also known as the " Pekin Night- 
ingale,'' is a native of Japan, a country which furnishes 
our bird-fanciers with many birds of beautiful plumage 
and numerous choice songsters. 

The Japanese breeders have made bird culture a 
science, and it is said that if any shade of color is taken 
to a Japanese breeder he can produce a bird of the 
same hue. Fortunately, the natural colors of the Japa- 
nese Robin are so beautiful and harmonious that they 
cannot be improved upon artificially. 

The head of this bird is rich bronze-green, the body 
soft dove-gray, throat ecru or yellowish-brown, shading 
into rich orange on the breast; wing and tail feathers 
black striped with white and gold; beak yellow, and 
eyes black, encircled with a white ring. The form is 
very trim and neat, and the large, liquid eyes with their 
white rings give the bird a wide-awake, gentle appear- 
ance that is very attractive. 

As a rule, the most beautifully colored birds are poor 
songsters; not so with the Japanese Robin, however. 
It possesses a song unrivalled in volume, silvery tones, 
and range of notes, and seldom repeats the same song 
twice. Its notes are a continual surprise, and it will 
daily utter new and unexpected variations, trills, and 



212 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

tones. It imitates any bird's song that it hears and 
combines bits of various songs with its own in a most 
charming manner. 

The bird is a constant singer, filHng the house with 
melody throughout the year, and if you whistle a call 
it will usually respond and seems to enjoy displaying 
its musical talents. 

The Japanese Robin is a very tame and intelligent 
bird, never quarrels or mopes, eats well, is very hardy, 
and has few diseases. At times its feathers, which are 
normally sleek and smooth, stand out loosely or ruffled, 
which indicates constipation; and a few drops of oil 
in its mouth, a little fruit, insects, and possibly an 
injection may be required. The Japanese Robin 
should have a cage at least i6 inches long and should 
be placed where it can have abundant sunshine. 

Clarinos 

These are soft-gray birds of the thrush family, and 
are natives of the West Indies and South America. Of 
recent years they have become a favorite cage-bird, 
and their clear, liquid, flute-like notes are very attrac- 
tive. They are easy to care for and require no special 
treatment. 

Shama Thrush 

The Shama Thrush, or East Indian Thrush, is a hand- 
some, large, thrush-like bird with attractive plumage 
and delightful song. It is doubtful if any other cage- 
bird combines tameness, intelligence, beauty, and music 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 213 

to the same degree as this bird. The range of its notes 
and its abihty to imitate other songs enable it to learn 
to whistle tunes and airs; frequently it learns to whistle 
a tune in eight or ten weeks. 

Unlike most song-birds, the Shama Thrush has no 
shrill or harsh notes, but each note seems perfect and 
complete in itself even without the accompanying notes 
of the song, and a single note repeated at intervals is so 
musical that it is very attractive. 

When one of these birds is purchased and taken to 
a new home it is very apt to remain silent for several 
weeks or even two or three months; but as soon as it 
becomes thoroughly accustomed to its new quarters it 
will make up for lost time with abundant melody. 

The color of the Shama Thrush is unusual and dis- 
tinct. The head, throat, back, and upper tail-feathers 
are glossy black; breast and belly chestnut red; under 
tail-feathers white and much shorter than the long, 
black upper ones. 

The cage for this bird should be 20 to 24 inches in 
length and should be hung at least 7 or 8 feet above 
the floor or ground. Bright light should be avoided; 
a dull, two-thirds light will be the best. 

MoCKING-BiRD 

This is one of the few native American birds that 
are universally kept as cage-birds and thrive as well 
and are as happy in captivity as when wild. 

As a songster the mocking-bird is equal to any 
feathered musician, and its greatest charm is in its 



214 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

ability to imitate the calls of other birds and animals 
and intermingle them with its natural song. 

The mocking-bird is not only a musician but a com- 
poser as well, and will spend hours trying new com- 
binations of notes in a subdued voice until satisfied; 
whereupon it will burst forth with its new composition, 
often stopping in the midst of a trill or note to start 
all over again with new notes. Aside from its musical 
ability, the mocking-bird will prove interesting and 
entertaining for its imitations of creaking doors, bark- 
ing dogs, calls of boys, and, in fact, any sound that 
catches its fancy. 

The mocking-bird is easily cared for and readily 
tamed. It thrives well if kept clean and in a large cage 
with plenty of gravel. It is particular as to regularity 
of feeding and bathing, and this matter should be at- 
tended to at the same hour each day. 

Troopial 

This is a large, handsome South American Oriole 
of bright orange and black plumage and a rollicking, 
loud, sweet song. Its notes closely resemble those of 
a flute or flageolet, and it will readily learn a tune 
played to it on these instruments. 

The troopial is a very active, graceful bird, and re- 
quires a large, long cage. Although the caged troopials 
are practically all wild birds which have been captured, 
yet they are always contented and thoroughly domes- 
ticated and become very tame. 

With a very little trouble they can be taught to feed 





SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE BIRDS 

1. Waxwing. 

2. Brazilian Cardinal. 

3. Troopial. 

4. Shama Thrush. 

5. How to clip wings. The dotted lines show 
where to cut feathers. 



SONG AND ORNAMENTAL CAGE-BIRDS 215 

from the hand, to perch on one's shoulder, and to answer 
a call. 

Starling 

In Europe tame starlings are very common, and they 
are often taught to whistle tunes, to imitate other 
birds, or even to enunciate words, but in America they 
are seldom kept in confinement. In most parts of the 
Eastern States the starlings have been introduced and 
are common in parks and streets, where they feed side 
by side with the English Sparrows. Their natural 
note is a soft, rather "squeaky" whistle, but they are 
intelligent, docile, easily taught birds with really beau- 
tiful plumage. They make very attractive pets. 

Waxwing 

The European or Bohemian Waxwhig is a beautiful 
bird of a very quiet, gentle disposition and a soft, 
silky plumage. It is a near relation to our common 
'^Cherry-Birds'' or "Cedar-Birds,'" and like these has 
a beautiful tapered crest on its head. The general 
color is soft fawn and grayish, with a black throat and 
a black line through the eye. The wings are marked 
with white and yellow, the tail is yellow-tipped, and 
the wing-feathers are decorated with tiny, wax-like tips 
from which the birds receive their name. 

The waxwings have no true song and are kept as 
cage-birds solely for their graceful form and attractive 
plumage. They are hardy, healthy. birds and are very 
fond of insects, berries, and fruit. 



CHAPTER XIV 
PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 

THERE are a great many species of parrots scat- 
tered over nearly all parts of the earth, and they 
vary in size from the diminutive paroquets to 
the great gaudy macaws and cockatoos. 

The parrots and their relatives are mostly brilliantly 
or strikingly colored birds, the prevailing hue of most 
species being green. The African Gray Parrot is the 
only gray species kept in captivity, while the various 
Australian Cockatoos are the only white ones. The 
majority of the parrots seen in confinement are Ameri- 
can; the cockatoos, cockatiels, and lories are Australian; 
the paroquets are American, African, Indian, and Aus- 
tralian, while the macaws are all American. 

Although they come from such widely separated 
localities, the habits, food, and nature of nearly all 
parrots are similar. In a wild state they live in flocks 
and feed upon fruit, nuts, seeds, and leaves, while the 
Australian "Kea" Parrot has learned to devour sheep 
kidneys and has proved very troublesome. 

Some of the parrot family live on the ground, others 
in low bushes, others in grass, but the majority live in 
the topmost branches of tall forest trees. 

While they can all fly swiftly and far, yet they spend 

216 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 217 

most of their time climbing deliberately about among 
the branches, using their strong curved bills like an 
extra foot. Although their colors are often very bril- 
liant, yet in their native haunts parrots are not easily 
seen among the foliage, and have a habit of sitting 
motionless when one is looking for them. They are 
noisy, loud-voiced creatures, and when undisturbed 
keep up an incessant babel. 

Most of the species build their nests in hollow trees 
or excavate holes for themselves. Parrots are very 
long-lived and may live for a hundred years or more, 
and most species are hardy. Most people consider 
parrots strictly tropical birds, and, as a matter of fact, 
the majority of the parrot family are natives of warm 
climates. Several species, however, dwell in high, 
mountainous regions, where it is very cold, and one of 
the most beautiful species — the Carolina Paroquet- 
was formerly found throughout the southern and east- 
ern United States as far north as Ohio. 

Parrots have always been noted for their ability to 
talk, and in this respect there is a great difference be- 
tween the species of parrots and even between indi- 
viduals of one species. The question as to which kind 
of parrot is the best talker is one which will never be 
settled satisfactorily. 

As a rule, the African Gray learns more readily than 
others, but the Panama green species, the various 
yellow-heads, and the Cubans all learn quickly. 

Paroquets of some species learn to talk, and even 
macaws at times are splendid talkers. I have never 



21 8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

seen a cockatoo that was really a good talker, but they 
are very intelligent and learn wonderful tricks. I have 
recently seen a troop of trained cockatoos that were 
absolutely marvellous. One of these birds played 
"Home Sweet Home" by pulling strings attached to 
bells; another danced to music, and one rang any num- 
ber which was called to it on a bell. This bird could 
add and subtract any number or combination up to 
twenty-five, and after looking at a watch or clock 
would ring the hour and minutes on a bell. 

All the parrot family are intelligent and, if taken 
young and reared by hand will become gentle, docile, 
and affectionate. 

Many of the most beautiful species and the best 
talkers are seldom seen in captivity. The great "Im- 
perial Parrot" of Dominica Island, in the West Indies, 
learns to talk within a few weeks after taken from its 
native forests, and even when captured fully grown he 
becomes perfectly gentle and affectionate within a 
week or two. This splendid bird is wonderfully col- 
ored with royal purple, green, blue, and red, and is the 
largest of the true parrots. Unfortunately, this bird 
has been so persistently hunted by the natives for food 
that the species has become rare, even in its native 
forests, and will probably be quite extinct before many 
years. 

Some of the Central American Paroquets are very 
beautiful and are well worthy of a place in our aviaries 
but are seldom seen in cages outside of their native 
land. 




PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS. 

I. Multicolored Paroquet. 2. Leadbeater's Cockatoo. 

3. Red Macaw. 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 219 

Care and Feeding 

The food now used generally for parrots over four 
months old consists of a mixture of equal parts of "pad- 
dy" or unhulled rice, hemp, and sunflower seeds. Cut- 
tlefish bone should also be furnished, and a few peanuts 
may be given occasionally; other nuts should be avoided 
except cocoanuts. Parrots are very fond of these, and 
a small piece may be given once a week, but not oftener. 
Parsley should be avoided as it poisons the birds, but 
lettuce, chickweed, and green or red pepper-pods are 
all excellent. A piece of raw onion is a good tonic, and 
apples, bananas, cherries, and other fruits will do no 
harm in reasonable quantities. Cracker, stale bread, 
and green corn (raw) are good for parrots, and if a 
piece of fresh sugar-cane or cornstalk can be obtained 
your pet will thoroughly enjoy it. Insects will be ap- 
preciated and are healthy, but sweetmeats, candy, cake, 
and meat are all objectionable. 

Parrots require water, but sometimes a gray parrot 
cannot drink it without suffering from diarrhoea, and 
in such cases clear black coffee should be given. Plenty 
of gravel should be provided, for parrots love sand or 
gravel baths, and eat a great deal of gravel besides. 
The cage should be kept very clean and should be 
scrubbed with soap and water at least twice a week. 
Few parrots will take water baths, but many paro- 
quets will, and until you try you cannot tell whether 
your pets will bathe in water or not. Use a pint or a 
quart of tepid water, according to the size of the bird, 



220 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

and dissolve a spoonful of borax in it. If the birds 
will not bathe use an atomizer and spray them thor- 
oughly two or three times a week. 

Parrots may be kept either in cages or on stands, but 
as a rule the talking birds are kept caged and the 
cockatoos or macaws kept on stands. This method is 
almost a necessity with the macaws, for their long tails 
are invariably worn or broken when in cages. More- 
over, their powerful bills necessitate very strong cages, 
and they do fully as well if not better on the stands, 
where their beautiful colors and long tails show to 
best advantage. 

Training 

The whole secret in training parrots or other birds 
to speak, sing, or imitate any other sound is patience. 
We do not expect a child to learn to speak until several 
months old, and yet we often become discouraged and 
disgusted if a bird fails to learn to repeat a word, or 
-even a sentence, in the same length of time, or even 
less. 

When teaching a parrot or other talking bird, let 
it remain for two weeks after it is purchased or ac- 
quired without other notice aside from feeding and 
caring for its wants. This will make it more at home 
and it will be less suspicious of your approaches. 
Then take away the drinking water or coffee for a few 
hours and offer it to the bird in your hand, at the same 
time holding out some favorite bit of food. It will 
probably accept the drink and food from your hand 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 221 

and very soon will learn to perch on your hand or arm 
and will let you stroke or scratch its head. 

Parrots learn to speak more rapidly if taught during 
the three or four hours after sunrise or before sunset, 
and the same word or sentence should be repeated over 
and over slowly, in clear, ringing tones, using care to 
always accent and pronounce the words in exactly the 
same way. 

Never try to teach a bird to talk several different 
words or sentences at one time; wait until it has thor- 
oughly mastered one thing before teaching another. 
If the parrot pays no attention or fails to show any 
signs of learning its piece for several months do not 
despair. Sometimes a parrot may be taught for twelve 
months without its uttering a word, and then it 
will suddenly blurt out the complete sentence per- 
fectly. 

After one or two simple things are learned the rest 
is an easy matter, and the bird will soon learn to repeat 
long sentences, songs, etc. If you ever notice your 
parrot quietly muttering or talking in an undertone to 
itself do not interrupt or disturb it; it shows it is prac- 
tising its lesson, and if left alone it will perfect its pro- 
nunciation until sure of itself. 

After speaking any word or sentence that has been 
taught, the bird should be rewarded by some tidbit. 
Rewards are far more efficacious than punishment 
when training parrots, and if allowed to grow really 
hungry and then fed when the words are spoken to it 
the bird will often learn more rapidly. 



222 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Diseases 

If parrots are correctly fed, are kept clean, and are 
cared for properly they will have few diseases and may 
live as long or longer than their owners. The prin- 
cipal diseases and their remedies are given below, 
but in every case you must use judgment, and if in 
doubt consult some reliable bird-fancier, especially 
one that is accustomed to handling and keeping 
parrots. 

Colds. — Keep the bird in a warm place and give a 
few red peppers. Ten drops of aconite in a glass of 
water, to be given a teaspoonful at a time at intervals 
of an hour, is a good remedy. Clean the bird's nostrils 
with a feather dipped in salt water and moisten them 
with almond-oil. Rub the throat and back with a 
solution of one part chlorate of kali in twenty parts of 
hot water. Let the bird inhale tar vapor from a bottle 
containing one part of tar to twenty-five parts of hot 
water. 

Vomiting. — This may be caused by fright, anxiety, 
overeating, or inflammation of the stomach. The 
former causes are of little account and the bird will 
soon recover; but if caused by inflammation and ac- 
companied by weakness, shivering, loss of appetite, and 
bloody discharges, it should be promptly treated in the 
following manner: Apply warm or nearly hot poul- 
tices of flaxseed to the stomach and belly and hold 
sand, as hot as you can bear in your hand, against the 
belly. Give teaspoonful doses of a solution of tannin 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 223 

to seventy-five parts of water two or three times a day, 
and feed tea leaves that have been steeped, and for a 
day or two mix tea with the drinking water. 

Indigestion. — Feed a plain, light diet of unhulled 
rice and a few hemp-seeds, without fruit or green food. 
Give some salt and tepid drinking water with a tea- 
spoonful of lime-water in it. A teaspoonful of light 
Bordeaux wine may be poured down the parrot's 
throat. 

Constipation. — Use warm castor-oil and olive-oil in 
equal parts as an injection, using a small syringe for 
the purpose. Give a dose of ten drops of castor-oil 
with half a teaspoonful of honey once or twice a day, 
and feed hemp and sunflower seeds in equal parts, and 
a little fresh fruit and green food. 

Diarrhosa. — Keep the parrot in a warm, quiet place, 
feed clear, unhulled rice, and give a cracker soaked in 
brandy and sprinkled with Cayenne pepper. If the 
attack is severe, put a few drops of paregoric in a tea- 
spoonful of boiled milk and give this every three hours. 
If the case is very severe and blood is passed give four 
drops of laudanum in the milk in place of paregoric 
and withhold all fruit, greens, and water until the bird 
recovers. Keep boiled milk with the laudanum and 
five to ten per cent of brandy in the cage. 

Dysentery. — Treat as for the last, and give in addi- 
tion one half to one teaspoonful of castor-oil with ten 
drops of honey. Wash the fouled, sticky feathers 
under the tail with warm water and a few drops of 
oil of eucalyptus. 



224 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Pulling Feathers. — This troublesome disease is due 
to improper food, such as meat, bones, too much sun- 
flower seed, and lack of exercise. Feed only hemp and 
paddy, give abundant gravel and wood for the bird to 
gnaw, and furnish the bird with spools, small china 
toys, or metal rings to amuse him. A half teaspoon- 
ful of glycerine in a teacup of tepid water used as a 
spray each day is excellent. Apple or banana should 
be fed daily. A salve or ointment especially prepared 
for the cure of this disease may also be used, and this 
is excellent. 

All of the above directions as to food, care, and dis- 
eases apply equally well to the various parrots, paro- 
quets, macaws, and cockatoos, and if in any case addi- 
tional treatment or particular foods are required they 
will be mentioned under the description of the birds. 

The African Gray Parrot 

This is the well-known "Joko" and is easily distin- 
guished from all other parrots by its ash-gray plumage, 
whitish face, black bill, and red tail. For the first 
year the gray is quite dark and the tail is brown save 
close to the body, where a trace of red may usually be 
seen. The gray is a large bird in appearance, but the 
body itself is not as large as it seems, for the feathers 
are very thick. At times one may find a bird with a 
few red spots or feathers on the back, wings, or head. 
Such birds are called "kings," and are supposed to be 
better than the ordinary birds and bring a higher 
price. This is pure imagination, for every species of 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 225 

known parrot Is subject to variation in plumage, and 
no two individuals can be found which are absolutely 
alike in color. Nearly every variety — especially those 
which normally have red in their plumage — is subject 
to great variation in the amount of red, and all are 
liable to have red feathers appear in odd or unusual 
places. Such markings are purely individual varia- 
tion, and the feathers frequently change their places 
with different moults. The presence of such "freaky" 
feathers has no bearing whatever upon the intelligence 
or talking ability of the bird. Gray parrots are natives 
of central and western Africa and are brought to 
this country via England, South America, or direct in 
both steamships and sailing vessels. Most of the gray 
parrots arrive in Boston, and those which arrive in 
sailing ships are the most prized, for having been longer 
on the trip they are more gradually accustomed to the 
change of climate, food, etc., and, moreover, are usually 
better cared for than those brought over on steamers. 

The Green Parrot 

The commonest parrots are the various green vari- 
eties which are classed by bird dealers according to the 
localities from which they are brought. Some of these 
classifications are rather crude, and several distinct 
species are often found classed under one common name. 
Thus a "Panama" may be one of several related 
species, the "Yellow-Heads" belong to several species, 
and parrots of distinct kinds from Haiti, San Domingo, 
and Cuba are frequently all classed as "Cubans." 



226 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

The leading green parrot is the Mexican or '^ Double 
Yellow-Head.^^ This parrot is a beautiful clear green, 
with a pale-orange or deep-yellow forehead, white feet 
and bill, and blue and red feathers in wings and tail. 
It is larger than the gray parrot and is noted for its 
ability to learn songs. These parrots are also excel- 
lent talkers and whistlers. 

The Panama is about the size of the Mexican, with 
an entirely green plumage except for a small yellow 
spot on the nape of the neck and the usual red and 
blue wing and tail feathers. Many people consider 
this bird a superior talker to the Mexican or the Gray 
Parrots. 

The Carthagena is named after the town of the same 
name in^ northern Colombia. It is a smaller bird than 
the Panama but is much like the Mexican in color, 
except that the beak is dark and the yellow forehead 
does not extend back over the crown in adult birds as 
does that of the Mexican Parrot. 

The Amazon is a light-green bird with blue and 
yellow head, orange and red throat, scarlet-tipped 
wings, and parti-colored tail. 

The Maracaiho is green with yellow forehead and 
variegated wings, and in general appearance is much 
like a small Mexican. 

The Blue-Fronted Parrot is distinguished by its blue 
forehead, while the Cuban bird has a white forehead, 
scarlet throat, and red and blue wings. 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 227 

Dwarf Parrots 

Under this name we find several species of small 
parrots from South America, all of which are desirable 
cage-birds, very easily tamed and trained and most of 
them capable of learning to whistle and talk. 

They are very affectionate, and if kept in pairs they 
will show every sign of affection and devotion to each 
other. They will eat together, share the same bath, 
and feed and preen each other. It is not necessary to 
keep them in pairs, for they live singly just as well, and 
their low price, intelligence, and ability to whistle or 
talk make them great favorites, especiall}^ with chil- 
dren. As a pet the dwarf parrot, or "Beebee," is excel- 
lent; it becomes greatly attached to his master or 
mistress and is fond of being stroked or fondled. It 
loves to romp and play with the children and will play 
hide-and-seek with delight. It is not destructive like 
the large parrots, and if allowed perfect freedom in a 
room will not get into any mischief. When kept in 
pairs and taught to speak the birds will often carry 
on a conversation in a most entertaining manner. 

They should be kept in large cages and should be 
given a bath daily, for unlike most parrots they are fond 
of water. The best food for these birds is canary and 
hemp seeds in equal parts, with apple or other fruit daily. 

If given a hollow limb or a box with a hole in one end 
they will breed and rear their young in confinement. 
The young birds up to six months old should be fed 
on soaked cracker. 



228 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Paroquets 

This term is applied to various tiny parrots, some of 
which are gorgeously colored, and there are so many 
species that it is impossible to describe or mention 
them all. They are seldom capable of learning to talk, 
but many species whistle tunes, while others have a 
pleasing twittering song. They are also capable of 
learning tricks, are readily tamed, they breed freely in 
captivity, and are very hardy. Their food should be 
canary-seed, with occasional hemp and sunflower, fresh 
apple, and greens. They should be kept in pairs to 
thrive to best advantage, and are altogether very at- 
tractive and pleasing birds. 

The Grass Paroquet is a native of Australia, and is 
known by its pale yellowish-green color, yellow head, 
dark bars on the back, and blue spots on the throat 
and neck. This is the paroquet most commonly 
kept as a cage-bird and is the most easily cared for and 
hardiest species, although by no means the handsomest. 
They breed freely in captivity. 

Love-Birds are tiny parrots which are much like the 
paroquets and dwarf parrots in habit. They are noted 
for their affection and attachment to their mates, and 
breed readily in confinement like paroquets. 

Lories 

These are gorgeously colored parrots from Australia. 
Their plumage is wonderfully variegated with reds, 
blues, greens, purples, orange, yellow, and other hues 










PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS. 



1. Cockatiel. 

2. Red-Faced Love-Birds. 



3. Blossom-Headed Paroquet. 

4. Rock-Pepple Parrot. 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 229 

mingled in a perfect riot of color. They are kept mainly 
for ornament, as they are not true talking birds and 
have harsh, unpleasant voices. Similar to the lories 
are the lorikeets, which bear the same relation to the 
lories that paroquets do to parrots. 

Cockatoos 

These are large, handsome birds from Australia. 
There are numerous species, the commonest being the 
Sulphur-Crested bird, with a beautiful curved crest of 
delicate sulphur yellow. The Rosy-Crested species has 
a salmon-pink crest, while the Leadbeater is delicately 
shaded with pink on the body, and has a deep salmon 
or fiery red and yellow crest. 

Cockatoos sometimes learn to talk, but they may be 
taught many entertaining tricks and are suitable for 
ornamental birds, especially when kept on stands. 
Just as paroquets are diminutive parrots and lorikeets 
are miniature lories, so the large cockatoos are repro- 
duced in pygmy size by the charming " cockatiels." 
These are beautiful birds of handsome colors, and should 
be kept by every one fond of ornamental birds. 

Macaws 

There are three common species of these large, gor- 
geously colored American birds, known as the "Red 
Macaw," the "Blue Macaw," and the "Military or 
Green Macaw." The red species is brilliant scarlet, with 
yellow, red, and blue wings and a long tail. The blue 
species is brilliant azure blue and bright yellow, while 



230 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

the Military Macaw is greenish with red and blue 
wings. They are easily kept but are better adapted 
to stands than cages. Occasionally they learn to talk 
splendidly, but as a rule they are merely kept as orna- 
ments. Their bills are extremely powerful and they 
are liable to inflict serious injuries if meddled with or 
handled. They are also likely to be treacherous and 
cannot be highly recommended as real pets. The food 
may be the same as for parrots, but hard nuts, corn, 
and other hard grains may be fed, as such things keep 
the birds busy and prevent the bills from becoming 
overgrown. 

Toucans 

Of all odd and unusual birds these uncouth creatures 
stand at the head. Their enormous, brilliantly colored 
bills, gorgeous plumage, and odd voices make them at- 
tractive, and they are capable of becoming very tame 
and aflPectionate and may be taught to whistle, imitate 
various sounds, or even to talk. Their natural notes 
sound almost human, and they are always lively, curi- 
ous, interesting birds. They are most desirable pets, 
and whereas parrots are so common as to attract no 
interest or curiosity in the beholder, yet the toucans 
always attract attention and interest visitors. 

When asleep these odd birds turn their huge bills over 
on their back and fold their tail, fan-like, over them, 
thus rolling themselves into a sort of ball. There 
are various species, the commonest being the "Sulphur- 
Breasted," which is a black bird with sulphlir yellow 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 231 

and orange breast, pale green and red bill, and white 
eyes. Other species have scarlet or white breasts; 
others are green with yellow throats; others are green 
and blue, green and red, black and orange, etc. 

They may be kept in an ordinary cage or allowed 
considerable freedom when tame, and will thrive well 
on a varied diet of mocking-bird food, softened hemp 
and sunflower seed, fruit, greens, cooked rice or paddy, 
insects, and boiled potatoes. They are very clean, 
tidy birds and love bright sunshine, and if properly 
fed and cared for will live many years in captivity. 
Toucans are very fond of meat, and an occasional piece 
of fresh liver or a bit of fresh beef will not hurt them, 
while during the moulting season hard-boiled egg may 
be given. Aside from this they should be treated 
much like parrots, as far as food, care, and diseases are 
concerned. 

Crows 

The common crow, ravens, European Crows, jack- 
daws, and others of the crow family are often kept as 
pets. If taken young and reared by hand they will 
become exceedingly tame and will learn to talk readily. 
The old idea that a crow's tongue must be slit to make 
him talk is ridiculous; the operation is as useless as it 
is cruel. 

Kindness, care, and patience are the only means for 
teaching any bird to talk or imitate a sound, and as 
all the crow family are exceedingly intelligent they 
learn very readily. 



232 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Crows and their relations may be kept in cages, but 
it is best to give them as much freedom as possible. 
Feed them various seeds, fresh fruit, greens, plenty of 
insects, and a little egg in moulting season and they 
will thrive and live for many years. There is no bird 
that will thrive on a greater variety of diet and will 
be so free from diseases as the common crow, and none 
that will prove more amusing and entertaining. 

When a boy, the author reared a crow from a nestling. 
This bird was called "Dom Pedro," after the emperor 
of Brazil, and was never kept confined in a cage except 
at night. He was full of odd tricks and kept us con- 
tinually amused at his antics. He learned to talk 
very soon, and would come when called like a well- 
trained dog. On one occasion he extracted all the 
goldfish from an aquarium, and the fish could not be 
found for months until one day when an old, unused 
dictionary was opened we found the unfortunates 
pressed between its pages. 

On another occasion he robbed a pet rabbit of her 
babies and hid the poor creatures under the shingles 
of an outhouse roof. He was very fond of insects, 
and when my father was gardening Dom Pedro would 
follow about in his footsteps, and as soon as a worm or 
bug was turned up by spade or trowel he would rush 
forward and gobble it instantly. 

A long story might be written to relate the number- 
less odd traits of this pet crow, but eventually his 
curiosity got him into trouble, and after eating a 
quantity of red paint he passed away, much to the 
sorrow of all who had known him. 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 233 

Jays 

Both the European Jay and the American Blue Jay 
make splendid pets, easily cared for, and capable of 
learning many tricks and to imitate the sounds of other 
birds and animals. Occasionally a jay may be taught 
to talk, and in my youth I owned a pet blue jay that 
spoke a number of words and several sentences. Feed 
the same as crows. 

Magpies 

Magpies are often kept as pets, and are very inter- 
esting and attractive. They are often taught to talk 
and will imitate various sounds and calls. They belong 
to the crow family and should be fed and cared for in 
the same way. 

MOTMOTS 

These are very pretty and extremely curious birds, 
which are natives of tropical America. 

There are a number of species of motmots, but all 
are, more or less, alike in general appearance and in 
habits. They are fairly large birds, about the size of 
jays, and are mainly blue and green in color, with very 
brilliant blue and black heads and long tails. The bill 
of the motmot is notched or toothed, and is very sharp 
and powerful. 

In their native state these birds perch motionless 
upon a branch and dart into the air to seize passing 
insects, much as flycatchers do. They also feed upon 



234 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

fish, frogs, and other water animals, which they catch 
after the manner of kingfishers, and they are fond of 
mice, small birds, lizards, and snakes. 

In captivity they will thrive on a mixed diet of meat 
scraps, insects, fruit, fish, and mocking-bird food. 

Motmots are so tame, unsuspicious, and confiding 
that they are called "bobos," or "fools," by the natives, 
and when captured and caged they seem in no wise 
troubled or disconcerted at the change in their life. 

These birds become exceedingly tame, they learn to 
answer to a call or whistle, and they will readily perch 
on one's finger or shoulder and feed from the hand. 

They have no natural song and are rather silent 
birds, but are well worth keeping because of their 
docile natures and interesting habits. The most re- 
markable habit of the motmot is that he actually 
shaves. The feathers of the tail, when they first grow 
out, are tapered and like any ordinary feather. For 
some reason the motmot thinks he can improve upon 
nature, and strips off the feathers on each side of the 
quill of the long tail-feathers, leaving the latter bare, 
except for a small tuft at the tip. 

The Mynah 

Parrots are world-famous as talking birds, and we 
usually consider them the best of talkers, but the 
East Indian "Mynah," or "Minor," is a far better 
conversationalist and a more entertaining pet. It can 
learn an unlimited number of words and sentences, 
can bark like a dog, meow like a cat, mimic odd sounds, 




I. Magpie. 



TALKING BIRDS. 

2. Mynah. 3. European Jay. 



PARROTS AND TALKING BIRDS 235 

or whistle tunes, and, best of all, it will invariably de- 
light in showing off its attainments. 

Many educated talking parrots are stubborn or 
bashful in the presence of strangers and utterly refuse 
to talk, sing, or whistle. The mynah, on the other 
hand, never has "stage fright" and will perform at 
command before a large audience. These birds seem to 
know by intuition when callers have come to be enter- 
tained and will do all in their power to "show off" to 
the best advantage. 

As an example of what a really well-taught mynah 
can do, I cannot do better than quote the words of 
Mr. Holden, who owns one of the most valuable of 
these birds. Mr. Holden says: "My own mynah talks 
and spells and laughs all day long, and every hour. 
His cage is covered — except a 6-inch-wide space, the 
length of the top — at 6 p. m., but if uncovered during 
the evening he talks and laughs just as freely as dur- 
ing the day. He is wonderfully apt with his hearty 
laughter, followed by the remark: 'That's all right.' 
When he thinks it is time to sleep, he says: 'Come and 
kiss me good night! Come and kiss nice!' Then he 
gives three long smacks and says: 'Ah, that's good!' 
On my return from a three months' trip I took him on 
my finger, where he likes to perch, and his prompt 
words, hitherto unheard by me, were: 'Three cheers 
for Holden!' It was a sweet welcome." 

Such a bird is valued at over one thousand dollars, 
but untrained mynahs may be purchased at from 
twelve dollars up. 



236 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

The mynah is about the size of a small dove or a 
jay, with beak, feet, and legs orange-yellow. The 
plumage is mostly glossy, iridescent black, with reflec- 
tions of violet, green, and -bronze. The feathers, espe- 
cially on the head, are very smooth and velvety, and 
below each eye is a small yellow naked "wattle," or 
membrane. Behind the ears and extending beyond 
the back of the neck are other bright yellow, naked 
membranes or "ears," which may be raised or depressed 
by the bird. The only other markings are patches of 
snow-white on the wings. 

It is an easily trained and affectionate bird and is 
very graceful in form and movements. 

All fruits, berries, and insects are suitable for the 
mynah, and it will readily eat prepared mocking-bird 
food with grated carrot and chopped hard-boiled egg. 
It should bathe two or three times a week and should 
have a cage 20 to 24 inches in length, with gravel and 
cuttlefish bone. The mynah is a long-lived, healthy 
bird, and individuals have been known to live for 
seventy-five years or more. 



CHAPTER XV 
WILD BIRDS 

A GREAT many of our common American wild 
birds make excellent pets or cage-birds, and 
some of these are as happy and contented m 
captivity as when wild and are really far better off. 

No one should ever attempt to capture or cage any 
of our beautiful song-birds or insectivorous birds, for 
these are useful and lovely creatures that are far more 
ornamental and admirable in their native woods and 
fields than when confined in cages. Sometimes, how- 
ever, a helpless nestling will be found or an injured 
bird discovered, and these may be reared in cages 
until grown or recovered. If the young nestling is 
thus raised to maturity it will usually be unable to 
look out for itself if freed and will prefer the life in 
a cage to that of its wild relatives. 

Many injured birds that are nursed into health by 
hand refuse to leave their new-found home, even when 
able to do so, and no one can complain if such birds 
prefer to remain with you of their own accord. Our 
game and bird laws protect nearly all our song and 
insectivorous birds, and provide penalties for trapping, 
shooting, or confining certain species. 

237 



238 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

If you wish to keep any native birds as pets it is 
wise to study these laws and confine your efforts to 
such species as are not protected. In this way you 
may be sure that you are not violating the law and 
may select birds to raise that are either useless, injuri- 
ous, or harmful species. As most of the really interest- 
ing birds are in this class, you will find ample oppor- 
tunity for securing many fine pets without decreasing 
the number of wild, useful, or ornamental birds. 

Among the best of wild birds to rear in captivity 
are the crows, blue jays and other jays, nutcrackers, 
starlings, magpies, blackbirds, and waxwings, as well 
as hawks and owls. 

All of these birds are easy to raise, are readily tamed, 
and make very interesting and attractive pets, except 
the hawks and owls, which seldom become very tame 
and are far from entertaining. 

It is almost impossible to raise some species of our 
birds in captivity, and the flycatchers, warblers, wood- 
peckers, thrushes, and vireos should not be attempted. 
Even if they are found helpless and you wish to keep 
them for humanitarian reasons, you will find them 
very difficult subjects. If, on the other hand, you 
find a deserted nestling or an injured individual of the 
sparrow or finch family, or a catbird, bobolink, oriole, 
thrasher, or any seed-eating bird, you will have little 
trouble in rearing the young one or in keeping the in- 
jured bird happy and healthy. 

All of the finches and sparrows may be fed on seed 
and treated like the canary and foreign finches already 



WILD BIRDS 239 

described, while thrushes, blackbirds, and similar 
species may be treated like the soft-billed birds men- 
tioned in a previous chapter. 

Any of the young wild birds may be fed on soaked 
bread or cracker, hard-boiled egg, etc., just as described 
for the young of other cage-birds, but in each case you 
must use more or less judgment and have some knowl- 
edge of the natural food and habits of the bird. 

Care and Feeding 

Wild birds in captivity require a great deal more 
space than those species that have been accustomed 
to a cage life for many generations, and even a small 
wild bird should have a cage as large as that required 
for the European Blackbird or the troopial. 

Many of the larger birds thrive best when given per- 
fect freedom, and if they have a cage the door may be 
left wide open during the day and only closed at night 
to keep out cats and other enemies. Crows, jays, 
magpies, etc., may be kept in this way and will come 
and go to their cage of their own accord. Wild birds 
if kept in cages should have abundant gravel, fresh 
water, and food daily and should be given a regular 
bath each day. 

Most native birds are hardy and will stand a great 
deal of exposure and are not subject to as many diseases 
as domestic birds, and even when they are sick they 
may be doctored just as directed for regular cage-birds. 

Nearly all wild birds are fond of insects, fruit, and 
green food, and while these are good for them, they 



240 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

should not be too freely given unless the bird is allowed 
a good deal of freedom and has abundant exercise. 
Any of the standard seeds, such as canary, rape, millet, 
hemp, sunflower, etc., will answer for wild, seed-eating 
birds, and most of them will eat many common weed 
seeds, grains, etc. Wild birds naturally have a far 
greater variety of foods than true cage-birds, and hence 
you should endeavor to vary their diet when in cap- 
tivity as much as you possibly can. 

Obtaining Wild Birds 

There are two ways of procuring wild birds which 
you wish to raise in captivity. The first is to trap 
them; the second, to take them from the nest when 
young. With few exceptions the trapped adult bird 
is very unsatisfactory and, moreover, in nine cases out 
often a bird so captured will be unhappy and unhealthy 
in captivity. There is no excuse for keeping any bird 
or animal in a cage if the poor creature is not happy 
and contented, for every hour of its existence under 
such circumstances is torture, but many wild things 
seem to enjoy their new quarters from the very first, 
even when captured fully grown, and in such cases 
there is nothing cruel or inhumane about keeping them 
in captivity. 

As a rule, it is far wiser to take young birds from the 
nest than to trap them, for fledglings reared by hand 
become very tame; they are thoroughly happy and 
contented in their cages, and they are far better off 
than when wild and exposed to the attacks of enemies 



WILD BIRDS 241 

of all kinds. I have had many wild animals and birds 
as pets, and in every case they have been allowed per- 
fect freedom, and I have never yet had one which did 
not voluntarily remain with me. In Central America 
I had several tame animals which spent most of their 
time in the woods near my house, but they always re- 
turned at night, and the same was true of many wild 
birds which I have raised. Under such circumstances 
no one can possibly argue that the creature is unhappy 
or longs for its freedom. 

The age at which a young bird should be taken from 
the nest depends a great deal upon the bird. Carniv- 
orous birds, such as hawks, owls, etc., may be taken 
almost as soon as hatched, for these birds are easy to 
feed and are strong and hardy. Small birds, on the 
other hand, should not be taken until they are well 
grown and nearly ready to leave the nest. At this time 
they are well feathered out, can stand on a perch, and 
can eat and digest many kinds of food, whereas if 
taken too young it will be next to impossible to feed 
and care for them properly. Even seed-eating birds, 
when very young, are fed mainly on insects, and if 
you once attempt to satisfy the appetite of a young 
bird with insects, you will have a wholesome respect 
for the wonderful amount of labor which the old birds 
perform daily in order to rear their hungry babies. 

The best way to secure a young bird to rear is to 
find the nest and watch the young, visiting them from 
day to day, until you find they are able to stand up- 
right on a perch, and can flutter their wings. In this 



242 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

way you can get a good idea of their habits, of the food 
they are accustomed to, and, moreover, both old and 
young birds will become familiar with your presence 
and when you take one of the young the parents will 
hardly miss it. If on your visits you occasionally feed 
the young yourself, it will be far easier to rear them 
later on; for if the baby birds learn to associate your 
presence with food, they will recognize you as a friend 
when you carry them away with you. 

Rearing Young Birds 

When the birds are large enough to take away, re- 
move the one or two you have selected as being the 
strongest and healthiest and place the youngsters in a 
covered basket with a bed of soft cloth. If the bird 
is unable to fly you can keep it in the basket for some 
time, but if it can flutter and hop about, it should be 
placed in a cage; but a nest of soft materials should be 
provided, in order that the young bird may have a 
soft, warm spot in which to sleep until it becomes 
strong enough to roost overnight. 

At first you will have to feed your new pet by hand. 
Use a medicine dropper or a spoon for giving water, 
and drop it into the bird's mouth. Each time after 
giving the bird a drink you may hold its bill into the 
water cup of the cage, and very soon the little fellow 
will learn that he can obtain a drink in this way with- 
out waiting to have you drop it down his throat! 

Feed the bird with small morsels dropped down its 
throat, and do not overfeed. You need have no fear 



WILD BIRDS 243 

that it will not notify you when hungry, and just as 
soon as it closes its mouth and does not open it when 
touched you may be sure that its appetite is satisfied 
for the time being. Young birds should be fed little 
and often, but the amounts given and the intervals 
between feeding should be gradually increased. 

Generally a young bird will begin to pick up food of 
its own accord, but it may be taught to feed earlier 
if you always drop a little of the food into its cup 
while feeding it. It requires some patience to raise a 
young bird by hand, but all birds grow very rapidly, 
and hand feeding is only required for a very short 
time. As soon as your bird is able to perch, take it 
upon your finger and gradually accustom it to take 
food from your hand without your help. From this 
it is a very easy step to feeding from the dish, and if 
each time you approach the cage to feed the bird you 
utter some call or whistle, the bird will very soon learn 
to respond. 

If the bird is a crow, jay, magpie, or other species 
that is capable of learning to mimic or talk, you should 
commence training it just as soon as you get it from 
the nest. It will not, of course, learn to talk at this 
tender age, but if it hears the same word or sounds 
every day at a certain time, they will be impressed 
upon its mind and it will associate them with your visits. 

My own crow and jay learned to speak a few words 
when less than two months of age, and having once 
mastered the rudiments of speech these birds will 
learn very rapidly. 



244 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

These directions and suggestions are, of course, gen- 
eral, and each species and individual must be fed and 
cared for in a slightly diflPerent manner from all others. 
In the following descriptions of various wild birds 
which are recommended for pets, more specific direc- 
tions for feeding and care are given. 

Hawks and Owls 

These birds are very easy to rear in confinement, 
and from the very first they may be fed upon raw meat, 
liver, mice, small birds (such as English Sparrows), 
frogs, lizards, small fish, and insects of all kinds. Be 
careful not to feed pieces that are too large, for the 
young hawks and owls are very greedy and will fre- 
quently choke themselves to death in their anxiety to 
swallow too large a piece of meat. At first, raw meat 
and liver are good, but these should be varied with 
large insects, and now and then some finely ground 
bone should be sprinkled on the meat. 

As soon as they show any inclination to tear or peck 
their food, they may be given pieces of dead mice or 
birds, for bone is very essential to these carnivorous 
birds. If fed exclusively on clear meat and insects, 
they will be weak and their legs will not be strong enough 
to support them; in other words, they will not have 
enough lime to form strong bones, and will suffer from 
the disease known as "rickets." If you cannot secure 
mice or other small animals, use ground bone pressed 
into the meat. 

Most hawks and owls never become very tame, even 



WILD BIRDS 245 

when raised from nestlings, but certain species and some 
individuals show a great deal of affection and are very 
docile and readily tamed. The common buzzard 
hawks, known as "Hen-Hawks," as well as the pretty 
little Sparrow-Hawks, become quite tame and will 
learn to come at a call or whistle, but some of the fal- 
cons are invariably wild and fierce and cannot be really 
tamed. 

Owls are even harder to tame than hawks. The 
little Saw- Whet Owls, Prairie Owls, Screech-Owls, and 
other small species frequently become very tame, but 
the larger species are usually vicious, snappy, and 
treacherous. 

Tame hawks and owls are of little interest save as 
curiosities, and, as they require a great deal of space 
and are dirty and ill-smelling, they are not to be highly 
recommended as pets. 

Crows, Ravens, and Similar Birds 

These birds are very amusing, interesting, and enter- 
taining pets and are exceedingly intelligent. When 
reared from nestlings they become as tame and docile 
as kittens or poultry and will voluntarily remain with 
their owners. They are all capable of learning to 
pronounce English words and to talk or to mimic 
other sounds, and they may be taught many amusing 
tricks. 

The young are easily reared by feeding hard-boiled 
eggs and raw egg for a few days and gradually adding 
insects, chopped meat, and ground bone until the birds 



246 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

are able to feed themselves. The egg and meat may 
then be reduced and cooked meat, fruit, seeds, grain, 
green food, and insects given until no egg is fed. 

By this time the young crows will be able to eat 
almost anything and will enjoy hopping about in the 
garden and foraging for themselves. If you spade or 
dig up the ground the crows will follow you about and 
seize every earthworm and bug you turn up. 

A cage or refuge of some sort should be provided for 
sleeping quarters, but the birds may be given full 
liberty during the day if you wish. If they are not to 
be allowed to roam about, you can keep them very 
comfortably in a large enclosure of wire netting, with 
a natural earth floor and growing trees, shrubs, and 
plants. Crows enjoy both sand and water baths and 
are very clean and tidy birds. A good-sized bathtub 
should be furnished and a bath given daily. If kept 
in a netting enclosure, the birds may remain out all 
winter, but a shelter of some sort should be provided. 

A thick mass of evergreen boughs does very well, 
but a water-proof box or an apartment, open at one 
end, fitted with perches inside is still better. In cold 
weather you should feed plenty of rich animal food, 
should give tepid water, and should be careful to see 
that the drinking water does not freeze so the birds 
cannot get at it. Do not give baths during the cold 
weather but furnish a box of clean, loose, dry sand. 

All the crow family are born thieves and are full of 
mischief. Never allow your pet crow to be alone in a 
room or house where there are jewels, coins, or other 



WILD BIRDS 247 

bright objects, for it will certainly make off with them 
and hide them in some out-of-the-way place where 
you will never find them. 

Crows and their relations have powerful beaks and 
will kill and devour any small bird or animal they can 
reach, so keep kittens, rabbits, guinea-pigs, or chickens 
where **Jim Crow" cannot get them. A person who 
has never owned a pet crow, raven, or jay does not 
realize how much humor a bird may possess or how en- 
tertaining a pet bird can be. 

Blackbirds 

Many of the American Blackbirds are very injurious 
to crops, and, as they are very abundant and are not 
good songsters, there is really no objection to keeping 
them in confinement. The handsome Red-Winged or 
Marsh Blackbird, the Yellow-Headed Blackbird, and 
the Purple Crackle are all handsome, lively birds that 
may be easily reared and are happy in confinement. 
Feed them on boiled egg and bread when young, and 
on a mixed diet of seeds, insects, fruit, and mocking- 
bird food when fully grown. Some of these birds will 
learn to whistle or pipe a tune, like the starling, and all 
are very easily tamed and become very docile and 
affectionate. They require daily baths, great clean- 
liness, and large cages. 

Sparrows 

Many of the native American sparrows are beauti- 
fully colored or have charming songs, and, while I do 



248 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

not advise keeping them in captivity as a rule, yet in 
many parts of the country certain kinds are kept 
largely as cage-birds. Among these are the Cardinal, 
or Virginia Redbird, the American Goldfinch, the Tow- 
hee, the Nonpareil, the Indigo-Bunting, etc. 

Formerly these species were sold by all dealers in 
birds, but under modern laws they are mostly protected 
and are not offered for sale. 

These sparrows all require the same food and treat- 
ment as similar birds already described, and most of 
them thrive very well in cages. 

Do not capture any of these species with the inten- 
tion of keeping them in confinement, but if you find 
an injured or helpless bird or one that is already caged 
and is badly treated or improperly cared for, you are 
justified in caring for it properly and keeping it as a 
pet. 



CHAPTER XVI 

GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 
Raising Game-Birds as Pets 

A GREAT number of our common wild game- 
birds, as well as many foreign game-birds and 
wild fowl, may be raised easily in captivity. 

Many of these birds, although naturally very wild, 
become as tame and friendly as ordinary barnyard fowl. 
Birds are very intelligent creatures, and the gallina- 
ceous or scratching birds in particular soon learn to 
discriminate between those who protect and those 
who persecute them. In many places wild game-birds, 
when protected from hunters, feed regularly in the 
barnyards with the poultry and show no fear of man. 

In Bermuda "bob-white," or quail, are protected, 
and they are often seen feeding among the chickens 
in dooryards or in the roadways. Nearly all wild 
game-birds or gallinaceous birds when in captivity 
may be fed on practically the same food and may be 
given almost the same treatment as poultry. 

This is particularly true of native game-birds, for 
many of the foreign species will not stand our severe 
winters and require special foods. 

Not only are wild fowl and game-birds interesting 
to keep, and desirable as pets, but, if raised systemati- 
cally on a large scale, they are very profitable. In 

249 



250 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

many places there is a steady and growing demand for 
partridges, quails, pheasants, and similar birds for 
stocking game-preserves and parks, and, as nearly all 
of these birds lay a great number of eggs and increase 
rapidly, a large number may be obtained, even if you 
start with but a few birds. 

The subject of breeding and rearing game-birds for 
sale is a very broad one and to go into its details 
would require a special work. In a general way, how- 
ever, the care and feeding of game-birds raised for 
profit is very similar to that required when the birds 
are raised for pleasure; but larger houses, runs, and 
enclosures must be used, and it is a waste of time to 
try to raise game-birds for profit unless you have abun- 
dance of room and lots of time to devote to the busi- 
ness. 

Aside from their desirable qualities as pets or for 
profit, many game-birds are to be highly recommended 
for ornamental purposes. Many of them are beauti- 
fully colored and have elegant forms, and a few of the 
handsomer pheasants, a peacock, or a curassow will 
be a great addition to well-kept grounds and will 
always prove attractive to visitors. 

Many boys and girls now raise chickens and other 
fowl, but they will find a great deal more pleasure and 
entertainment in turning their attention to pheasants 
or similar birds. Any unusual or uncommon thing is 
attractive, and doubly so when it is beautiful, and we 
can scarcely find any birds more beautiful and unusual 
than some of the pheasants and other game-birds. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 251 

There are so many varieties of these birds that it is 
impossible to mention them all, but I will describe some 
of the more desirable and beautiful kinds, especially 
those which are easily raised and cared for and are 
suitable for amateurs to keep. 

Pheasants 

This term is applied to a number of species of galli- 
naceous birds, most of which are natives of the East 
Indies and the Orient, but as a matter of fact the com- 
mon barnyard fowl, the peacock, and the guinea-fowl 
are all pheasants. The wild ancestor of our common 
poultry was the Jungle Fowl of India, which resembles 
very closely some of our domestic bantams and game- 
cocks. There are a great many species of pheasants, 
and many of these have been crossed so that among 
the commoner domesticated pheasants we find a great 
deal of confusion in regard to names and distinctions. 

The majority of the so-called pheasants are very 
hardy birds and naturally inhabit the high table-lands 
and mountains of Asia, and many of them do perfectly 
well out-of-doors during the winter, even in our North- 
ern States. 

In a general way, pheasants may be grouped into 
two classes known as "Game Pheasants" and "Aviary 
Pheasants." The former are those species that are 
suitable for stocking game-preserves and parks and 
which readily take care of themselves and become 
naturalized, while the aviary .birds include the species 
raised mainly for ornamental purposes, and which are 



252 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

too valuable, too tender, or too tame to be easily 
naturalized, or to raise their young and increase under 
natural conditions. The two classes, however, grade 
from one into the other, and, moreover, while many of 
the aviary species are not suitable for game-preserves, 
yet practically all the game pheasants will do per- 
fectly well for aviaries or for pets. 

Some species of pheasants make excellent pets and 
will learn to come at a call, to eat from the hand, or to 
stay at home just as readily as common chickens. 
Other species are wild and untamable and will take to 
the woods and fields if given an opportunity. 

Pheasants have been raised in captivity for a great 
many centuries in Asia and were introduced into 
Europe and England by the early Greeks and Romans. 

In many parts of Europe, and especially in England, 
the pheasants are the commonest game-birds, and thou- 
sands are annually killed and sold in the markets. 
Most of these birds are the English Pheasant and the 
English Ring-Necked Pheasant, but on some estates 
Golden Pheasants, Reeves's Pheasants, and Mongolian 
Pheasants are well established. 

In America numerous attempts were made to intro- 
duce pheasants at intervals for over one hundred 
years; but all of these proved unsuccessful until 1882, 
when about fifty Chinese Ring-Necked Pheasants were 
shipped from Shanghai by Hon. 0. N. Denny, the 
United States consul-general there. 

These birds were liberated near Portland and were 
strictly protected by game-laws for ten years. At the 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 253 

end of that time a shooting season of two and one half 
months was opened, and over fifty thousand pheasants 
were killed during the first open season; and at this 
time it was estimated that there were more pheasants 
in the State of Oregon than in the whole of China. 
So wonderfully well had the birds become acclimated 
and so rapidly had they increased that in 1896 over 
ten thousand were marketed in a single month, and 
over one hundred thousand were killed. 

This serves to illustrate the wonderful rapidity with 
which pheasants increase under favorable conditions, 
and their success in Oregon was so great that almost all 
other States have now introduced pheasants, and in 
many places they are very abundant. 

General Care 

In breeding or rearing pheasants each person must 
act more or less for himself and must be governed by 
surroundings, locality, and other circumstances; but 
some general rules are suitable for all conditions. 

It must always be remembered that pheasants are 
not truly domesticated birds and that many species 
thrive best when their natural tendencies are catered 
to. Many of the pheasants prefer to sleep in the open 
rather than in houses or under cover, and some species 
which will seek the shelter of a shed in the daytime in 
stormy weather will, when night comes, seek their ex- 
posed roosting place, no matter how cold or stormy 
it may be. 

If both open and protected roosts are available, you 



254 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

can trust to the birds to select the place best suited to 
them, and you need have no fear that they will suffer 
from exposure, as they are perfectly well able to look 
out for themselves. 

Pens and Runs 

Any sort of a place will do for the pheasant house 
and enclosures as long as it is well drained and some- 
what hilly or sloping. 

A light, sandy loam soil is the best, and a clayey soil 
is the poorest, for it is very likely to induce disease. 
The pens should face the south or southwest, should 
have both sunshine and shade, and should extend 
east and west. The size of the pens will depend 
upon the number of birds. For a cock and three to 
five hens a good size is 6 feet high, 6 feet deep, and 8 
feet wide. This will be large enough for the number 
of birds mentioned during the breeding months, and 
will accommodate twenty to thirty birds during cold 
weather. If your flocks increase it is better to add 
more pens and runs rather than to make each one 
larger. 

The pens should be open on the southern side, with 
windows or doors hinged at their tops to serve as pro- 
tection from cold and driving storms, and the roof 
should be water-tight and sloped enough to shed rain 
well. Pheasants require protection from wet and 
dampness more than from cold weather, and a dry 
spot for them to run in and roost under in bad weather 
is the main object of the roofed shed. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 255 

The floor of the pen should be the natural earth, and 
it should be slightly higher than the ground around it 
to insure drainage. This will keep the floor dry and 
furnish the birds with a dust bath, which is very essen- 
tial, as pheasants depend upon it to keep free from 
lice and to clean their plumage. A box of old mortar, 
cinders, and gravel should be kept in the shed, and it 
should be provided with good-sized perches placed well 
up toward the top. 

Each pen should have a run or enclosure from 20 
to 50 feet or more in length and the same width as 
the pen. This should be made of i-inch-mesh wire 
netting, sunk 18 inches in the ground as a protection 
against rats, weasels, etc. 

The top of the runs should be covered with netting, 
and a few inches below this top cord-netting or fish-net 
should be stretched to prevent the birds from injuring 
themselves against the wire netting if they attempt 
to fly out. The cover is just as necessary to keep 
hawks, owls, and cats out as to keep the pheasants in. 

Each end of the run should have a door, and if it is 
possible several trees, shrubs, or bushes should be en- 
closed within the run, for the birds will like these 
much better than regular perches. If no trees or shrubs 
are available, place plenty of perches in the run, and 
have them slightly lower than those in the shed in 
order to induce the birds to sleep under cover as much 
as possible. 

In cold weather the floor of the run may be covered 
with dead branches, pine or fir needles, and straw, 



256 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

which will protect the birds' feet, while in warm weather 
the chips and litter will attract numerous insects, 
which are splendid food for the birds and will keep 
them busy scratching. The sides of the run may be 
boarded up part way if dogs or children are likely to 
disturb the birds, but most fanciers prefer no boarding 
at all. 

If you keep many birds you should have enough 
runs so that the birds may be shut out of one and al- 
lowed in another from time to time. This will afford 
an opportunity to spade up the ground in the old run 
and to start grass, clover, or plants within it. The 
change from one run to another will often add to the 
health of the birds, and hens that have stopped laying 
will often start again when placed in a new run or pen. 
The runs and pens should be side by side, with com- 
municating doors so that the birds may be transferred 
without handling, and all doors to the runs and pens 
should be arranged to close automatically with weights 
or springs. 

All runs and pens should be kept scrupulously clean, 
for unclean quarters cause more diseases among pheas- 
ants than anything else. Each should be well spaded 
up and limed at least once a year, and at this time the 
runs should be planted with clover, vetch, alfalfa, 
timothy, or other rapid-growing, hardy vegetation to 
afford cover to the birds. 

If the growing grass is worn or destroyed, or you 
cannot have it conveniently, you should place freshly 
cut sods or turf in the run every few days. The birds 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 257 

thoroughly enjoy tearing these to pieces in search of 
the insects they contain. 

If hawks or owls are common in the neighborhood 
they should be destroyed, for, while these birds may eat 
a great many mice and other vermin and cannot reach 
the birds through the netting, yet they frighten them 
and keep them disturbed and nervous. Rats and mice 
may be trapped, or a dog may be fastened to a ring 
which runs on a wire all along the run on the outside, 
and he will thus be able to guard the birds. Minks, 
weasels, and other animals are at times troublesome, 
and to keep these out of the runs a layer of fine netting 
should be sunk horizontally a few inches beneath the 
surface of the earth outside of the run. All burrowing 
animals will attempt to dig close to the walls of the run, 
and the horizontal strip need not be over a foot wide. 

Handling New Birds 

When your pheasants first arrive they will be timid 
and nervous from their trip in small crates, and every 
effort should be made not to frighten them. 

Have the crate placed in the run with a supply of 
water and food near at hand, and toward evening open 
the crate so that the birds may readily emerge. Then 
leave them and keep away from the run for a few days, 
only approaching when it is necessary to furnish food 
or water. At first the birds will feel strange in their 
new quarters, and will try to escape at your approach, 
and if not treated carefully they may kill or injure 
themselves by dashing against the netting. 



258 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

It is a good plan to place the food and water in the 
cage after dark for the first few days, so as not to dis- 
turb the birds, and after a short time you will find 
that they become accustomed to your approach. As 
they gain confidence visit the run more and more often, 
and when you find that they are not at all nervous in 
your presence enter the run to place the food and water 
in the enclosure. At first you should barely step in- 
side and should increase the distance you enter very 
gradually until the birds will permit you to walk and 
work within the run without showing any nervousness 
or fear. 

If you wish to keep the birds tame, always feed and 
care for them personally and try to wear the same 
clothes each time you enter the run. Pheasants ap- 
parently judge a person mainly by his clothing, and 
any great change in costume will usually startle them 
as much as the entrance of a complete stranger. 

In the breeding-season it is particularly important 
not to frighten the birds, and strange people, dogs, and 
cats should not be permitted to approach them. 

You will probably find that some individuals are 
tamer than others, and by separating these you may 
be able to make them into perfect pets. Whenever it 
is necessary to handle or catch a pheasant, be very 
careful not to grasp it by the legs, as they are very 
slender and easily broken. A large crotched stick 
with netting of string between the forks should be 
placed over the bird, which may be thus held down 
while you catch it with your hands over the wings. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 259 

Of course, this applies only to wild or nervous birds; 
those which are really tame and will allow you to touch 
them may be carefully but firmly grasped over the 
wings, using care not to startle or hurt them, in which 
case all your trouble in taming may go for naught. 

Breeding 

The mating season of pheasants varies more or less 
with the species and with the locality, but as a rule 
it commences in February and lasts into June. 

Always keep each variety of pheasant in a separate 
pen and run; and in the breeding-season a single cock 
should be in a pen with three or more hens of the same 
species. If more than one cock is in a run they will 
fight and kill one another. 

Pheasants that are thoroughly at home in their 
pens and are accustomed to their surroundings will 
prove better breeders than new arrivals. It is not es- 
sential to give the birds nests for laying, for a corner 
filled with brush or corn-stalks will serve just as well. 
Unless some arrangement of this sort is made, the eggs 
will be dropped anywhere and will be broken or eaten 
by the cocks. 

Egg eating is a serious trouble with many pheasants, 
and while the males are usually the worst off'enders, the 
hens soon acquire the habit; but the birds seldom touch 
eggs that are not on open ground. The best way to 
prevent this practice is to remove the bird that eats 
the eggs; but china eggs, or egg-shells filled with 
Cayenne pepper, soft soap, etc., placed in the run will 



26o PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

often cure the birds of this troublesome habit. If the 
eggs are laid in cover or brush and are collected promptly 
there will be little danger of egg eating. 

Collect the eggs every day, and if not to be set at 
once, they should be placed end up in a covered box 
containing bran and should be kept in a dry, cool 
place and turned over once each day. It is advisable 
to set the eggs just as soon as a sufficient number are 
obtained, but they may be kept up to ten days or two 
weeks before setting if necessary. 

During the laying period the birds should be well 
supplied with fresh gravel, old mortar, cinders, and 
ashes, and a rusty nail or piece of iron should be kept 
in the drinking water. 

Hatching 

Pheasant's eggs should be hatched under common 
hens, and a good mother and setter of lively habits 
and fairly light weight should be selected for the foster- 
parent. Cochin Bantams are the very best fowls for 
the purpose, and most dealers in pheasants can supply 
hens of this breed, especially reared for hatching pheas- 
ants' eggs. Some fanciers prefer turkey-hens for rear- 
ing the young pheasants, but, as a rule, light-weight 
fowl are better. Wyandottes, Rhode Island Reds, and 
other breeds all do well. You should always use great 
care to be sure that the hen does not suffer from ''scaly- 
leg," roup," lice, or other diseases. 

Dipping the hen's legs in a 5-per-cent-carbolic-acid 
solution before allowing her to set, repeating the 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 261 

treatment from time to time, is a wise precaution 
against scaly-leg. 

Lice are often fatal to young pheasants, and the hen 
should be well dusted with insect-powder before she is 
allowed to set, and once each week afterward until 
three or four days before the time the eggs should 
hatch, A good-sized dust bath should also be con- 
venient for the hen's use. 

The exact size and arrangement of the hatchery may 
vary a good deal, but the simpler it is the better. It 
may consist of several separate boxes or coops, or of a 
number built together in a row. The hatching coops 
do not require floors, but the tops should be water- 
proof and should slant enough to shed water readily. 

Good ventilation is important, for a stuffy hatchery 
will become infested with lice and fleas. A i-inch- 
mesh wire netting or a board should extend in front 
of the coop for 2 or 3 feet so that the hen may eat, 
drink, exercise, and dust herself; and in this enclosure 
the chicks can run until removed to larger quarters. 

The run containing the hatchery should be covered 
and enclosed with ordinary poultry netting to keep 
out animals and other enemies. A good size for the 
hatching-box is 14 inches square at the base, 18 inches 
high in front, and 14 inches high at the back. Across 
the front side, at the bottom, a board 3 inches wide 
may be nailed with a similar strip 2 inches wide at the 
top. This will leave an open space about 12 inches 
wide, and into this space a board should be fitted and 
hinged to the 3-inch bottom strip, so it can open down- 



262 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

ward and outward, and a fastening should be attached 
to the top strip to keep the door closed when necessary. 

If several boxes are used in a row, the tops, bottoms, 
and backs may be formed of long pieces extending the 
entire length of the boxes. The top of the box should 
project at front and back to shed rain, and if it is 
hinged so it can be opened it will often be found 
convenient. 

The nest should consist of a sod, turned grass down- 
ward, with the earth side slightly hollowed out and 
with a little grass or short straw placed in it. If pre- 
ferred, the soft earth of the box may be hollowed out 
and lined with soft, dry grass. 

Food and water should be placed near the nest each 
day, and when the hen first commences to set and shape 
the nest, it is a good plan to use a few common hens' 
eggs or artificial eggs, as otherwise she may break the 
pheasants' eggs before she really gets comfortably 
settled. 

Give the hen from nine to twelve eggs, according to 
the number she can cover, and leave her alone as much 
as possibly. At a certain hour each day, place food 
and water in front of the coop and open the doors so 
the hen can come out. Within twenty or twenty-five 
minutes she should return to her nest and may be 
locked up until the next day. Nests should be kept 
very clean; all broken eggs and other refuse should be 
removed, and the remaining eggs washed in tepid 
water if soiled. The eggs should hatch in from twenty- 
one to twenty-four days. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 263 

If an egg has been chipped by the chick but the 
latter is unable to get out in eight hours it may be 
assisted by placing the egg in a shallow pan of warm 
water for a minute or two, with the chipped portion 
uppermost and out of water. 

Never attempt to drag or pull a chick out of the 
shell; let it emerge slowly of its own accord. Let the 
young chicks remain in the nest for at least a day after 
the last egg has hatched and have the coops for the 
chicks ready for them. 

These coops should be 2 feet square, 18 inches high 
in front, and 14 in the rear, with a runway 4 to 6 feet 
long, and the width of the coop with sides made of 
i-inch-mesh wire netting, or of boards a foot in height. 

Rearing the Chicks 

This is the most critical point of the young pheasants' 
lives, and they will require two or three weeks of un- 
remitting care and watchfulness and attention to detail. 

Extreme cleanliness is necessary, and all drinking 
and feeding receptacles should be washed and scalded 
daily. Weather conditions must be noted, and pre- 
cautions taken not to expose the chicks to dampness 
or direct and excessive sunshine, and in very dry weather 
the grass near the coop should be sprinkled and a leafy 
branch should be placed near by to furnish shade for 
the chicks. Place the coop on a freshly cut grass or 
clover plot, and move it to a new location each day. 
The tender grass shoots with the insects among the 
roots provide a large part of the food of the chicks. 



264 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Always keep a shallow dish of water within their 
reach and place a few small stones in it. When they 
have learned the call of their foster-mother and answer 
it, the chicks may be allowed at large. 

At first the hen may be given her freedom with the 
chicks, but if they show any tendency to stray away 
they should be confined in larger runs. Dust baths 
should always be furnished to the young birds, and the 
coops should have hinged doors like those of the 
hatchery boxes, so that the birds may be locked in 
during bad weather. 

The foster-mother and the young chicks should 
always be given separate food. It is not necessary to 
feed the chicks at all until they are twenty-four hours 
old, but they should be given fresh, clean sand or grit 
to pick at during the first day. They will develop an 
appetite by the second day and should be fed every 
two hours on this and the next two days, after which 
the number of feedings may be gradually reduced, 
until at the end of three weeks the youngsters are 
being fed but three times a day. 

Opinions vary as regards the best pheasant food for 
the chicks, but many of the methods used by large 
breeders — such as keeping a supply of fly-blown, 
rotten meat on hand to produce maggots — are so dis- 
agreeable and objectionable as to be unworthy of con- 
sideration. The best and cleanest foods for young 
pheasants are boiled eggs cut fine, custards, and the 
prepared game-bird foods. To make a custard, beat 
ten eggs thoroughly, add a quart of milk, and bake 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 265 

until dry and free from whey and do not add season- 
ing or sugar. Set the dish with the custard in a pan 
of water when baking to prevent scorching. A mix- 
ture of milk, eggs, and Indian or oat meal, just damp 
enough to be crumbly, is a very good food. Ants' 
eggs and meal-worms are excellent, and grasshoppers, 
small crickets, and other insects are all good. 

If you rear only a few chicks you can easily raise 
enough meal-worms for them, and can obtain a vast 
number of insects by "beating" the long grass and 
weeds of fields and meadows. To do this, have a strong, 
stout net of unbleached cotton on a stout handle, and 
have the bag of the net at least 2 feet deep and 10 
inches in diameter. Provide several large, stout paper 
bags to hold the insects, and proceed to "swish" the 
net back and forth through the grass and weeds as 
you walk along. After travelling for two or three 
dozen yards in this way, look into the net, and if you 
have found a good hunting-ground you will be sur- 
prised at the vast number and variety of insects you 
have caught. Place a paper bag against the opening 
of the net and turn the net down into it. Grasp the 
neck of the paper bag over the net, and withdraw the 
latter slowly, gradually pressing the bag together as 
you withdraw the net, and thus scraping off the insects 
and preventing them from crawling or hopping out. 
As soon as the net is fully withdrawn tie up the bag 
and proceed to secure more insects to fill the next bag. 

After all the bags are filled they may be taken home 
and emptied one at a time onto the ground where the 



266 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

young pheasants are feeding. You will have a lot of 
fun watching the little fellows rushing about to capture 
the released insects, and the chicks will be benefited 
by the exercise as well. 

Another good plan is to hang the bags of insects in a 
dry place and use the dried and dead insects to mix 
with the eggs, custard, and mush with which you feed 
the chicks. 

Another excellent food is made of boiled potatoes 
mashed and mixed with finel}^ chopped boiled eggs, 
corn-meal, bran, and chopped meat scraps. Still an- 
other desirable mixture consists of one quart corn-meal, 
one quart wheat middlings, one pint bone-meal, one 
pint beef scraps, and one pint of milk thoroughly 
mixed. 

Feed greens, such as finely cut fresh grass, clover, 
lettuce, chickweed, etc., in abundance. 

After the first few days commence feeding whole 
seeds such as millet, hemp, canary seeds, etc., gradually 
increasing the quantity of seed and decreasing that of 
soft food until the diet consists entirely of seed and 
grain. 

Be careful not to overfeed; pheasants, both young 
and old, are light eaters and are easily overfed. Just 
as soon as the birds lose interest in the food stop feed- 
ing. 

Feeding 

As pheasants are light feeders, fifty cents a year 
should be ample to pay for one pheasant's meals. Vary 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 267 

the food as much as possible and feed morning and 
evening at regular times, and do not feed any more 
than the birds will eat. If any feed is left over de- 
crease the next meal by that amount. 

When coming to feed the birds give a whistle or call 
or tap the sides or edge of the dish, and the birds will 
soon learn to recognize the sound and run toward 
you. Always serve the food in clean tin, enamelled, or 
glazed dishes, as porous earthenware is hard to keep 
clean. 

Never scatter food on the earth or ground, as it soon 
spoils and is trampled into the earth. Clean up all 
wilted green food and scraps after each meal and keep 
the pens, runs, perches, and dishes as clean and neat 
as your own kitchen or dining-room. 

Pheasants like an abundance of green food and grass, 
cabbage, lettuce, clover, alfalfa, apples, beets, turnips, 
and, in fact, any kind of fresh green growth or vegetable 
will be good for them. 

When feeding grass dig up big pieces of coarse turf 
and place these in the run; these sods contain lots of 
insects and the birds love to tear them to pieces. Never 
feed long grass blades, as these catch in the birds' 
crops and produce a serious condition known as "crop 
bound," which is often fatal. 

Feed plenty of grain, meat scraps, insects, corn- 
meal, wheat bran, and finely chopped raw or boiled 
beef. If you feed a mash of bran, meal, etc., never 
make it wet enough to be "sloppy." 

Among the best grains are Kaffir-corn, paddy, oats, 



268 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

buckwheat, millet, and canary seed. Indian corn 
should be fed only in cold weather and in very small 
quantities, as it is very heating. Always keep a supply 
of charcoal, broken oyster and clam shells, old lobster 
or crab shells, and gravel in the run, and invariably 
have a dish of clean, fresh water where the birds can 
drink whenever they wish. 

Diseases 

Pheasants are not subject to a very great number 
of diseases, but as they are not so long accustomed to 
domestication as ordinary fowl, they are more suscep- 
tible to the various ailments. Cleanliness, proper 
feeding, and good care do much to prevent disease; 
but even under the most favorable circumstances dis- 
eases will now and then trouble the birds. 

Disinfection is of great importance, for many of the 
diseases of these birds are due to minute parasites, and 
are easily transmitted from one bird to another. Dis- 
infection is of importance not only as a means of check- 
ing the spread of a disease but also as a means of pre- 
venting it; and the buildings should be occasionally 
disinfected as a regular matter of routine. Buildings 
may be disinfected by burning sulphur, or formaldehyde 
fumes may be used, and the woodwork may be painted 
with carbolic-acid solution. 

The earth in the runs and pens may be well disin- 
fected by spading it up after top-dressing it with lime, 
after which cow-peas or oats or some similar quick- 
growing plants may be sown and the run left idle for 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 269 

a few months. When using carbolic-acid solution add 
whitewash or color to it so that you may see where it 
has been used and will not overlook any corners or 
crevices. 

Lice.— Lice cause the greatest annoyance to the 
pheasant breeder. Great care must always be used 
to see that the foster-mother is not infected and, as 
already directed, she should be treated with insect- 
powder to make sure. If the chicks should show signs 
of lice, apply vaseline or olive-oil on the top of the 
heads, on the throat, around the ears, and under the 
wings. 

Feather Pulling.— This is often a serious trouble 
among pheasants. This affection or habit should be 
checked at once, and the best way to stop it is to re- 
move the offending bird and any badly plucked birds 
and keep them separated from the others. An abun- 
dance of room is a good preventive, and sometimes if 
plenty of cover is furnished the hens will be able to 
hold their own against the attacks of the cocks. 

Another method is to clip the wings of the cocks and 
place a partition in the pen too high for them to flutter 
over. The hens may then escape readily to the other 
parts of the run or can take refuge on a high perch. 
If the cock's wings are clipped, low perches must be 
provided for their use, as they cannot fly to the high 
perches. 

Pasting. — Pasting occurs usually during the first 
week of life. The chick loses its vivacity, sits with 
eyes closed and its downy coat fluffed until it appears 



270 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

like a ball. Examination reveals the vent plugged or 
covered by a whitish, chalky, or pasty substance. 
This stoppage of the vent frequently leads to death in 
a day or two as the result of the absorption of putre- 
factive poisons due to retention of the faeces. Treat- 
ment consists in the immediate gentle removal of this 
chalky plug and the application of a few drops of 
sweet-oil or a bit of petrolatum. 

Diarrhoea. — Whitish diarrhoea may be caused in very 
young chicks by cold, by overheating, by overfeeding, 
or by too little or too much water. The observant 
fancier will come to recognize these conditions almost 
instinctively and will relieve them by at once altering 
the regime. This should be all that is necessary. If 
more is required it is evident that either the case has 
been permitted to run so long that the chick is too 
weak to recuperate or infection is operating. 

White diarrhcea of chicks, so dreaded by the poultry 
man, is an affection of pheasant chicks as well. The 
diarrhoea is merely a symptom of a severe infection of 
the intestines, especially of the blind pouches, or caeca, 
by a low form of animal life known as Coccidium te7iellum^ 
and we therefore speak of the disease as an intestinal 
coccidiosis. The white coloration of the faecal discharge, 
as in the two previous diseases, is due to excretions 
from the kidneys. In certain virulent forms of the 
disease the minute blood-vessels on the inner portion 
of the intestinal wall burst, and the bleeding gives rise 
to a dark-brown or even blackish coloration, which 
obscures the white effect of the uric acid. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 271 

Treatment should begin with the administration of 
Epsom salts, mixing them in a mash and estimating 
from eight to fifteen chicks to one teaspoonful of the 
salts, according to age, size, and previous thriftiness. 
The drinking water should contain sulphate of iron 
(copperas) in the proportion of ten grains of the copperas 
to one gallon of water, or enough permanganate of 
potash may be added to the drinking water to give the 
water a claret-red color. The coops, feeding utensils, 
drinking vessels, and runs should be disinfected as 
previously directed. As a preventive measure, incu- 
bators and brooders should be cleansed and disinfected, 
and, prior to incubation, whether natural or artifi- 
cial, the eggs should be dipped in 95-per-cent alcohol, 
or in a 4-per-cent solution of some good coal-tar dis- 
infectant. 

Gapes or Gape Disease. — The disease known as gapes 
is particularly fatal to young pheasants. The two 
names given above are derived from its chief symptom. 
It is caused by a worm called Syngamus trachealis, the 
generic name, Syngamus, recognizing the permanent 
sexual union that exists between the male and female. 
For this reason the worm is also called the branched 
worm, forked worm, and Y worm. From its color it 
is known as the red worm. Attached to the wall of 
the chick's windpipe by means of the sucker on the 
head end of both male and female portions, it is only 
with great difficulty loosened by sneezing and coughed 
up. Death usually results from suffocation due to 
obstruction of the windpipe by the large, well-fed worm 



272 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

distended with blood drawn from its host, or to the 
presence of a few worms and excessive mucus combined, 
or, again, to the presence of a large number of worms. 

In addition to the symptom of gaping, there is a 
peculiar stretching out of the neck, with an actual 
gasping for breath. Many claim to be able to diagnose 
the disease by a characteristic sudden, whistling cough, 
somewhat like a sneeze. However, as these symptoms 
might be easily counterfeited by bronchitis, pneumonia, 
so-called brooder pneumonia, which is really a mould 
infection of the lung, and roupy disease of the larynx 
and windpipe, the only sure means of demonstrating 
the disease is to find the worm. 

The usual method of treatment is to take a horse- 
hair formed into a loop, a small feather from which 
have been removed all barbs save those at the tip, a 
timothy head treated in the same manner as the feather, 
or even (if great care is exercised) a very thin wire 
twisted into a loop, pass it gently down into the wind- 
pipe, and, after making a few turns, carefully withdraw 
it. Sometimes these instruments, before being used, 
are dipped in sweet-oil, or sweet-oil containing a few 
drops of turpentine. In this way the worms are either 
withdrawn or loosened from their attachment to the 
windpipe, so that the chick can cough them up. Garlic 
in the drinking water or mixed with the food has often 
proved efficacious. 

Since the disease is spread by the young birds tak- 
ing in with their food the worms and their eggs that 
have been coughed up by infected birds, one of the 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 273 

first steps in treatment is to remove all the birds from 
the infected ground and to separate the sick from the 
well. The infected ground should be immediately 
treated so as to destroy the gape worms and their eggs. 
As the earthworm has been shown to be not an in- 
termediate host, but a carrier of the gape worm or 
its ova, the surest way of raising the young chicks 
where the ground has probably been infected is to rear 
them on board floors. 

Another method of treatment is fumigation. A 
smudge may be made from tobacco; tar or sulphur 
may be vaporized; or carbolic-acid fumes may be pro- 
duced by pouring a small quantity into boiling water. 
Caution must be used in the application of this method, 
as there is great danger of suffocating the birds or of 
their being overcome by the drug effect of the sub- 
stances volatilized. 

Cramps. — Under the name of cramps, used by the 
keepers of pheasants, Doctor E. Klein, of England, has 
described a disease which causes great mortality among 
birds during the second and third weeks of life. It 
begins with lameness in one leg, followed the next day 
by lameness in the other. Death occurs, as a rule, on 
the third day. Post-mortem reveals softening and 
fracture of the thigh-bone and of the bone of the leg, 
associated with the presence of considerable blood in the 
surrounding tissues. The only treatment is to destroy 
the bird, burn the carcass, and disinfect the grounds 
and houses. 



274 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Diseases Affecting Mainly Adult Pheasants 

Roup. — Certain affections known as contagious 
catarrh, diphtheria, and roup, if, indeed, they be dis- 
tinct diseases, generally group themselves in the fan- 
cier's mind under the one name, roup. The term 
diphtheria should not be used, because it belongs 
properly to that disease in the human family which is 
caused by a special bacillus which does not cause dis- 
ease in birds. The other two names may represent 
two different stages of the same disease, a contagious 
inflammation of the mucous membranes of the eyes, 
nose, mouth, throat, gullet, or windpipe, which may 
express itself by a watery, sticky, bad-smelling secre- 
tion or by the development of yellowish patches. 

In the treatment of these affections the first thing 
is to recognize the contagiousness and to isolate the 
sick birds. Disinfect houses and grounds. Make a 
mixture of peroxide of hydrogen and boiled water, 
equal parts; into this plunge the head of the affected 
bird. By means of a slender wire covered with a 
little absorbent cotton and dipped in this mixture 
clean out of the eye or scrape off the tongue and sides 
of the mouth all yellowish matter and apply a 4-per- 
cent solution of borax or boracic acid or the peroxide 
solution named above. Give all birds, sick and well, 
a dose of Epsom salts. Keep iron sulphate or per- 
manganate of potash in the drinking water. 

P7ieumonia. — Pneumonia as a popular term in bird 
diseases probably often includes inflammation of the 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 275 

windpipe, inflammation of the bronchial tubes (bron- 
chitis), and inflammation of the lungs. Difficult 
breathing, wheezing, coughing, and shaking the head, 
associated with the usual symptoms of feverishness, 
weakness, and loss of appetite, call for treatment. A 
purgative, such as Epsom salts or a teaspoonful of 
castor-oil, should be given first. Keep the bird in a 
dry place. From time to time allow it to inhale the 
fumes of burning sulphur or tar, or the vapors arising 
from carboHc acid in boiling water. Do not allow the 
fumes to become too dense. 

Enteritis. — Enteritis, as used in bird medicine, means 
inflammation of the intestines. While it may originate 
from cold, improper feeding, and the like, it is usually 
an infectious disease and calls for prompt cleansing of 
the digestive tract, which is best accomplished by 
Epsom salts or a teaspoonful of castor-oil containing 
about fifteen drops of turpentine. Add iron sulphate 
or permanganate of potash to the water; isolate the 
aff^ected birds. Disinfect thoroughly the houses, uten- 
sils, and grounds, and sprinkle lime everywhere. The 
causes may be coccidia, such as we find in white diar- 
rhoea of chicks; flagellates, as in the canker of pigeons; 
or bacteria, as in Klein's infectious enteritis. 

Cholera. — Cholera would really come under the third 
class just mentioned. The organism causing it is fre- 
quently so virulent that death comes within a few hours, 
even before the diarrhcEal symptoms have had time to 
manifest themselves. The treatment would be prac- 
tically that outlined under enteritis, although treatment 



276 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

is usually of no avail. Kill the very sick and treat 
only the apparently healthy, thus anticipating and 
preventing the disease. Necessary in all the other dis- 
eases, it is of supreme importance in cholera to burn 
quickly all dead birds, after saturating them with coal- 
oil. Burying deep and covering with lime may have 
to do, but it is not so good a method. In killing the 
sick birds do not use the axe, and thus spatter every- 
thing with the infective blood. 

Scurfy Legs. — The affection known as scurfy legs, 
scaly-legs, scabies, or mange of the legs and feet is 
caused by a parasitic mite Sarcoptes mutanSy which 
burrows under the scales and by its presence sets up 
an irritation which causes a rapid increase in production 
of cells, together with a secretion resulting in a gradual 
thickening and elevation of the scales. Being a para- 
sitic disease, scaly-legs is transmissible from one bird 
to another and from infested houses, perches, nests, 
etc. Treatment must begin with isolation of the pa- 
tient and the thorough application to the coops and 
fixtures of boiling soapy water, then kerosene, and 
finally a coat of 5-per-cent carbolic acid, to which has 
been added enough lime to make a whitewash. The 
affected bird should have its legs soaked in warm soap- 
suds, this part of the treatment being completed by a 
good scrubbing with a small hand scrub. This alone 
has cured the disease. However, it is best to follow 
this with a good rubbing of sulphur ointment (one part 
flowers of sulphur to nine parts of lard, sweet-oil, or 
petrolatum). 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 277 

Scab. — Body mange or scab is caused by a sarcoptic 
mite, to which some authors have given the name 
Sarcoptes IcEvis. Loss of feathers at various points of 
the body calls for examination, which shows the skin 
apparently normal but the feathers broken off at the 
surface. If the rest of the feather be pulled out, the 
roots will be seen to be covered with a dry, powdery 
mass made up of dead cells and parasites. Treatment 
calls for isolation of diseased stock, disinfection of coop 
and fixtures, and application to the skin of flowers of 
sulphur in the form of either a dusting powder or an 
ointment. The application of sweet-oil containing a 
small quantity of kerosene or carbolic acid, carbolated 
petrolatum, or even lard with carbolic acid, will be 
found to give good results. 

Air-Sac Mite. — Serious disease is frequently caused 
in a flock by the presence of the air-sac mite. This 
mite, Cytodites nudus, inhabits the air-sacs of birds, 
chiefly those of chickens and pheasants. Often its pres- 
ence in large numbers causes congestion and inflamma- 
tion of the lining membrane of the air-sacs. Sometimes 
the bronchi become plugged with them, sometimes a 
pneumonia is set up, sometimes the irritation opens 
the way for the entrance of bacteria which cause sec- 
ondary disease and death. Treatment is very difl&cult 
and unsatisfactory. Sulphur mixed in the food has 
been recommended. The inhalations and garlic treat- 
ment suggested under gape disease might be beneficial. 

White Comb. — White comb or favus is a fungous or 
mould disease of the comb, head, and neck. It is 



278 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

caused by the Achorion schonleinii. In general appear- 
ance favus resembles mange. There is the develop- 
ment of white, powdery scales upon the comb, and the 
feathers of the head and neck become brittle and break 
off at the surface of the skin. The affected parts should 
be anointed with some oily substance like lard or petro- 
latum. After a few hours, or the next morning, scrub 
the parts with soap and water, rinse, dry, and apply 
ichthyol ointment (one part ichthyol to nine parts of 
petrolatum). In very stubborn cases tincture of iodine 
may be applied. 

Intestinal Worms. — Pheasants frequently harbor con-' 
siderable numbers of intestinal parasites. It has gen- 
erally been considered that no harm results to the bird 
from the presence of worms in the intestinal tract. 
Nevertheless, it must be recognized that the plugging 
of a part of the intestine by a ball of these worms or 
a long knotted rope composed of them must seriously 
derange the intestinal functions. Serious inflammation 
of the intestines is often caused by some of these worms. 
Where it is evident that a flock is thus infested, Epsom 
salts should be administered at least once a month. 
Birds that appear markedly affected may be given one 
teaspoonful of castor-oil containing fifteen drops of 
turpentine. Since the disease is spread by birds taking 
up with their food the eggs that were in* the droppings 
of diseased birds, the ground thus contaminated should 
be thoroughly disinfected. 

Tuberculosis. — Tuberculosis is not a subject for treat- 
ment but for eradication and prevention. It is fairly 
common among domesticated pheasants and is often 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 279 

spoken of as "going light." However, not all cases 
of "going light" are cases of tuberculosis. When a 
bird dies of tuberculosis a post-mortem examination 
will reveal the liver, spleen, and intestines more or less 
filled with yellowish, cheesy lumps, ranging in size 
from that of a pin-head to that of a walnut. Under 
microscopic examination these nodules or tubercles 
must always show the bacillus of tuberculosis, or the 
disease should not be called tuberculosis. There are 
other diseases characterized by lumps in the liver, 
spleen, and intestines. For this reason the first pheas- 
ant that upon post-mortem exhibits a nodular condi- 
tion of the organs should be wrapped in rags previously 
soaked in 5-per-cent carbolic acid, and shipped to the 
laboratory of the Bureau of Animal Industry, Wash- 
ington, D. C, or to the State Experiment Station, for 
diagnosis by microscopic examination. 

When the disease is discovered, isolate all "going- 
light" birds; disinfect their droppings; if they persist 
in their pallor and emaciation, destroy them; disin- 
fect all grounds and buildings; keep lime sprinkled 
among the droppings. If hens are affected, but are 
still laying, cleanse the eggs in 95-per-cent alcohol, 
hatch in a previously disinfected incubator, rear in 
sterilized brooders, and keep the chicks absolutely 
apart from all other stock. In this way a new flock 
completely free from tuberculosis can be developed. 

Varieties of Pheasants 

The commonest of pheasants used either as game- 
birds or for aviaries is the Chinese or English Ring- 



28o PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Necked Pheasant. In reality the two birds are distinct, 
the "Chinese" or true "Ring-Necked Pheasant" being 
a natural species, while the "English Ringneck" is a 
cross between the Chinese Ringneck and the old- 
fashioned English Pheasant, known also as the "Dark- 
Necked," or "Hungarian Pheasant." 

When Ring-Necked Pheasants are imported from 
China or Oregon, they are usually fairly pure and have 
a distinct white ring around the neck with a purple- 
green neck and head. The body-color is brilliant, 
reddish-golden brown, beautifully marked and varie- 
gated with brown, green, and buff. The tail is long 
and gracefully tapered and variegated and barred with 
various shades of brown and copper. These colors re- 
fer to the male or cock bird, for the females or hens of 
all the pheasants are comparatively dull-colored with 
variegated brown, buff, and grayish colors. 

The true English Pheasant is much like the Chinese 
but has no ring about the neck and is darker-colored; 
but every gradation and variation may be found be- 
tween the two extremes. 

The Mongolian Pheasant is larger than the Chinese 
and has a broad, white ring around the neck. The en- 
tire wing-coverts and shoulders are white, while the 
brown or red of the body is rich orange-red, or nearly 
scarlet. It is a rare bird in confinement. 

The Green Pheasant or Japanese Pheasant is smaller 
than the Chinese and, instead of being brown or red- 
dish, this bird is glossy, changeable blue-green below, 
with a green neck and breast, green and buffy back, and 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 281 

with wings and tail variegated with browns, buff, and 
green. 

The Copper Pheasant is very different from any of the 
above and is entirely splendid copper-brown, which 
gleams like burnished metal, the only ornamentation 
being delicate lacings of white and gray. 

All of these birds were introduced into Oregon and 
other Pacific coast states, as well as in other localities, 
and as they interbreed and mix freely there are a great 
many variations and gradations of plumage among 
them. 

The Reeves's Pheasant is another magnificent bird, 
mainly golden-yellow in color, with black and white 
markings and an enormously long, graceful tail, which 
sometimes reaches a length of 7 feet. This bird is a 
very hardy species and is considered a splendid game- 
bird in Europe, where it is found wild on a good 
many estates. It is an excellent aviary bird, and makes 
a handsome and attractive pet. 

The Prince of Wales Pheasant is not often seen and 
resembles the Chinese species in a general way but 
lacks the white ring on the neck and has white wing- 
coverts. 

Elliot's Pheasant is a still more beautiful species, 
wonderfully shaded, mottled, and variegated with 
white, browns, and grays. It is a desirable bird and 
very attractive in aviaries or with other pheasants. 

Of all the pheasant family none are more brilliant 
or beautiful than the Golden Pheasant and the Lady 
Amherst Pheasant. Both of these birds are easily 



282 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

reared, become very tame, and make excellent pets; 
the golden is one of the most easily tamed of all pheas- 
ants and has a natural fondness for being petted and 
caressed. Its small size, neat form, and magnificent 
coloring make it the most desirable of the pheasants 
where pet birds are desired. 

The colors of the golden pheasant must be seen to 
be appreciated. Scarlet, blue, gold, and green are the 
most prominent tints, while the cape or "tippet" on 
the neck and the graceful, amber-colored crest add 
greatly to its beauty. The tail is about 2j^ feet in 
length and is reticulated or mottled with red, brown, 
and white. 

The Lady Amherst Pheasant somewhat resembles the 
last species and is a member of the same genus, but 
it differs in the arrangement of the colors and markings. 
The "tippet" of this beautiful bird is 3 inches deep, 
and composed of white and green bands, while the 
crest is crimson and the 3-foot tail is banded instead 
of being mottled as in the last species. 

Another splendid species is the Silver Pheasant, a 
large, handsome bird mainly pure white in color, pen- 
cilled with delicate lines of black, and with a graceful 
long tail. 

This species becomes so tame that it feeds and runs 
with the poultry; it is very hardy and is as easy to 
raise as an ordinary fowl. Unfortunately, it is rather 
a quarrelsome and overbearing bird and should not 
be kept with other pheasants or small fowl. 

Such are the commoner and more desirable pheas- 




PHEASANTS. 

I. Lady Amherst Pheasant. 3. Copper Pheasant. 

4. Prince of Wales Pheasant. 
5. Elliott's Pheasant. 



2. Reeve's Pheasant. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 283 

ants for amateurs to keep as pets or for ornament; 
but the Szvinhoe Pheasant with its deep-blue plumage 
and odd white back, the gorgeous Fiery Tragopan, the 
magnificent Peacock Pheasant with peacock-like eyes 
on tail and wings as well, are all splendid species to 
keep; and the big Manchuriayi Eared Pheasant should 
not be overlooked. This peculiar bird has a queer band 
of white around the throat which ends in a pair of tufts 
or "ears," from which the bird derives its name. The 
plumage is more like fur or hair than feathers, and the 
tail is hidden beneath great, waving, magnificent, 
drooping plumes. Although so handsome and unusual 
in appearance, the greatest value of this bird lies in 
the fact that it may be allowed to run at large as freely 
as ordinary fowls, for it is the tamest of all pheasants 
and never attempts or desires to return to its wild life. 

Other Game-Birds 

The above directions as to feeding, care, and breed- 
ing apply equally well to almost any of the wild game- 
birds or gallinaceous birds when in captivity; but in 
every case you must use judgment and common sense 
and change the details of food and care more or less 
in accordance with the special habits, peculiarities, 
or natural food of the birds you keep. It would be a 
waste of time and money to build large runs and pens 
for one or two small game-birds, while hardy, native 
species, such as the quail, partridges, etc., do not re- 
quire such painstaking care, when young, as do pheas- 
ants. 



284 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Always strive to learn all you can in regard to the 
habits, food, and peculiarities of any bird you attempt 
to keep, and find out as much about its natural home 
and food as you possibly can. 

Peafowl 

Peafowl are very easy to raise, for they have been 
long domesticated and are hardy and well able to take 
care of themselves. Although they are very handsome 
birds, yet their raucous voices and overbearing natures 
render them less desirable than many other ornamental 
birds. Peahens will rear their own young, but as a 
rule they are stronger and more satisfactory when 
hatched and cared for by a turkey-hen or a good 
Brahma, Cochin, or other common fowl. 

Guinea-Fowl 

These are well-known birds that are natives of 
Africa. There are a number of species, some of them 
very beautifully colored. The Vulturine Guinea-Fowl^ 
for example, is a magnificent bird and is frequently 
known as the Royal Guinea-Fowl. This species has 
the head and upper part of throat bare of feathers, and 
the nape of the neck is covered with a short, velvety 
down. The lower parts of the neck are covered with 
long, slender, flowing feathers, with a broad stripe of 
white in the centre of each feather. This white stripe 
is bordered by black, dotted with white spots, and 
edged with blue. The breast and sides are beautiful 
metallic blue, the middle of abdomen black, the flanks 




I. Golden Pheasant. 



PHEASANTS. 

Peacock Pheasant. 



3. Eared Pheasant. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 285 

pink, spotted with white dots encircled with black, the 
bill is brown, and the feet and legs brown. This is a 
bird that is easily reared and is a striking addition to 
an aviary or to a collection of ornamental wild fowl. 
The ordinary Guinea-Fowl is descended from the wild 
bird known as the Common Guinea-Fowl, and although 
domesticated for many generations it has never become 
really tame and has altered but slightly in appearance 
from its wild ancestor. 

The commonest variety is the Pearl Guinea. It has 
purplish or steel-gray plumage, dotted with white, and 
has coral-red wattles. The ears and sides of head are 
white and resemble white kid. Some varieties have a 
peculiar bony helmet on the top of the head, while 
others have a crest of feathers. Pure white guineas are 
not rare and are usually merely albinos of the common 
variety. Other varieties are found which are white, 
dotted with black, and by crossing these and the white 
ones with ordinary birds a great number of color varie- 
ties have been produced. Guinea-fowl will cross with 
ordinary poultry and with turkeys, but these hybrids 
will not breed. 

The calls of the male and female Guinea-Fowl are 
very distinct, that of the male being a loud shriek, 
while that of the female resembles the words "buck- 
wheat!" "buckwheat!" repeated shrilly over and over 
again. 

Young guinea chicks are very pretty little creatures, 
much resembling young quail, and are quite hardy 
until about two months old, when the regular plumage 



286 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

begins to appear and the wattles on the head commence 
to form. At this time the birds are very delicate and 
difficult to raise. 

Guinea-Fowl still retain many of their wild habits, 
and if allowed perfect freedom they will wander for 
long distances, will fly as well as wild birds, and will 
roost out-of-doors in trees. They make their nests in 
secluded spots, away from houses, and desert them if 
any one approaches or disturbs the nests or eggs. If 
guineas are kept in runs or enclosures with high perches 
and are fed regularly at night, they will become very 
tame and will soon learn to come at a call. 

Guinea-hens make poor setters, and the eggs should 
be given to a good, motherly hen or to a turkey-hen for 
hatching and rearing; from fifteen to eighteen eggs 
should be given her. Eggs hatch in about twenty- 
eight to thirty days, and the young birds should be 
kept in covered runs until a week or two of age, after 
which they may be allowed to run with their foster- 
mother in good weather. 

Young guinea chicks should be fed almost as soon 
as hatched. They require feeding oftener than ordinary 
chickens, as their crops are much smaller. Indeed, a 
fast of several hours may often prove fatal to them. 
The food may be the same as that of young pheasants, 
and the same care should be taken to protect them 
from cold and dampness. 

Guinea-fowl do not make very good pets, but they 
are useful in giving warning of strangers, enemies, 
hawks, etc., and are profitable when raised in large 




ORNAMENTAL QUAIL, OR PARTRIDGE. 

1. Red-Legged Partridge. 3. Massena Partridge. 

2. Gambel's Partridge. 4. Scaled Partridge. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 287 

numbers for the market. In Europe they are much 
used for the table, but in America they are only be- 
ginning to be appreciated. The guinea's eggs are con- 
sidered better flavored and more desirable than hens' 
eggs, and as the birds are rather prolific layers the eggs 
may be used for table purposes and should prove profit- 
able. When allowed freedom the guinea-hens will hide 
their nests away, and a number of hens will lay in one 
nest, often filling it with thirty or more eggs. If kept 
in runs or enclosures and furnished with secluded places 
for their nests the eggs may be gathered daily, but three 
to five eggs should always be left in the nest. These 
may be marked so as to be distinguishable. It is a 
good plan to use a long-handled spoon in taking the 
eggs from the nest, for, if much handled, the birds may 
refuse to lay any more eggs there. 

Quail 

Many of our native quail are easily reared in cap- 
tivity and become very tame. The Californian Quail, 
Gambel's Quail, Messina Quail, and other species are 
very beautiful, are easily tamed, and soon learn to eat 
from the hand and to come at a call. The eggs should 
be hatched by bantam hens, and a large amount of 
insect food should be fed to the chicks. 

Grouse 

Many species of grouse, including the European 
Black Grouse and the big Capercailzie may be raised 
in confinement, but they seldom or never become really 



288 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

tame or domesticated. They are mainly of interest 
for collections of live birds or for use in game preserves 
or parks. 

Guans 

The guans, known also as Chachalacas or Mexican 
Pheasants, are handsome, pheasant-like birds, found in 
Mexico and tropical America. They are very easily 
tamed and do well in captivity but seldom breed well, 
although they frequently lay eggs. The eggs are 
beautiful blue-green in color, like the eggs of a catbird 
or robin. They are tender birds and must be protected 
and kept warm in cold weather. 

Thiamous 

These are delicately and beautifully colored birds 
much like quails in habit and food. They require 
practically the same care as pheasants. They are quite 
hardy, but most varieties require protection in winter. 

Sand Grouse 

These are very attractive birds with pointed tails and 
soft, blended colors. They live naturally in barren, 
sandy places and are easily reared in captivity. Some 
varieties are quite hardy, while others must be kept m 
heated apartments in cold weather. Dampness and 
cold are fatal to these birds. 

Curassozvs 

These are large and magnificent birds about the size 
of a small turkey and mainly glossy, metallic black in 





I. Tinamou. 2. Sand Grouse. 3- Curassovv. 4. Chachalaca. 



GAME-BIRDS AND WILD FOWL 289 

color, often with white bellies and markings of yellow 
or scarlet on the rump. They have beautiful, gracefully 
curved crests, which are barred or mottled with white 
in the female birds. 

In their wild state the curassows live mostly in high 
trees, but they will do well in runs or enclosures in 
captivity. They become remarkably tame and docile 
and make very attractive pets. They are all natives 
of tropical America and must be well protected from 
frost and cold during our northern winters. 

Under favorable conditions they breed in captivity, 
and in the Southern States they might be bred for 
market or game purposes. 



CHAPTER XVII 

WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 

Habits and Care 

AMONG the various water-fowl of America and 
other countries there are a great many that are 
exceedingly beautiful and become very tame 
and make most interesting pets. 

Ordinary ducks and geese are all very well to raise 
for the market, but they have little to recommend 
them. They are usually ungainly, overfed, clumsy, 
unpleasant in voice, with little wit and less affection. 
Many varieties of ducks and geese, however, are very 
neat and handsome in form, beautiful in plumage, and 
graceful in their movements. Many of these are quite 
silent, or have pleasing, whistling notes, and in their 
habits they exhibit many attractive and interesting 
traits. Moreover, a large number of these water-fowl 
are very intelligent and may be taught to come at a 
call and to feed from the hand. 

The wading-birds also include among their number 
many odd and beautiful species, and as some of these 
become exceedingly tame and are just as easy to rear 
and care for as chickens or domestic ducks, they are 
desirable additions to one's collection of pets. Even 
those which are too large or too shy to be kept for pets 

290 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 291 

are very ornamental and striking in appearance and 
add greatly to the charm of grounds or small parks. 

A great many of the wild ducks and geese, as well as 
gulls and other water-birds, will thrive very well in 
captivity without any water in which to swim; but all 
water-birds do better if they have water, and unless 
you can arrange to furnish the birds with a pool of 
some sort, it is not advisable to attempt to keep many 
water and wading birds. 

Nearly all the wild ducks and geese, and many other 
water-birds as well as quite a number of wading-birds, 
will succeed on a diet of grain, corn, and vegetables; 
but other species must have animal food, such as meat, 
fish, frogs, insects, etc. 

If you live near the seashore or a large lake or river 
or where there are large fish markets, you will be able 
to find plenty of food for this class of birds, but other- 
wise it is best to confine yourself to such species as will 
thrive on a vegetable diet. Moreover, most of the 
birds that require animal food are dirty and rather 
disagreeable creatures to rear in a limited space and 
are far less desirable than the vegetable feeders. 

Water and wading birds may be kept in cages or in 
runs or they may have their wings clipped and be per- 
mitted to roam about the grounds at will as soon as 
they become thoroughly tame and accustomed to their 
surroundings. 

Where a small pond or a brook is available it may 
be wholly or partially enclosed in a fence of wire netting, 
6 or 8 feet high. If the birds' wings are clipped this 



292 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

will prevent their flying out and they will be perfectly 
content and thoroughly at home. Small sheds or pens 
should be built on the land near the water, and shrub- 
bery, small trees, and other vegetation should be planted 
in the enclosure. 

If native American birds, or birds that live naturally 
in a similar climate to ours, are kept exclusively, the 
pens may be merely open sheds with tight roofs, for 
birds of this sort will stand our coldest winters. On the 
other hand, if you keep southern or tropical species, 
you must provide warm winter quarters in which to 
keep the birds. 

Many of our wild ducks, geese, gulls, and wading- 
birds will breed readily in confinement if given plenty 
of room and suitable surroundings and will rear their 
young year after year. The young birds thus raised 
are usually very tame and show Httle disposition to 
escape. 

Many wild birds, especially ducks and geese, will 
drop into your pond, attracted by the captives, and 
if undisturbed and fed they will often remain volun- 
tarily and become willing captives. In the spring and 
fall, when the wild birds migrate north and south, your 
pets may show an incHnation to join their wild relatives, 
and it is a good plan to keep their wings clipped for 
this reason. No matter how content and tame the 
birds are, they may find the temptation to join the 
migrating flocks too strong to resist, and the only way 
to be sure that they do not leave you is to cHp their 
wings. 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 293 

My grandfather had a number of captive Canada 
Geese which were perfectly tame and thoroughly domes- 
ticated, but each fall they would leave the barnyard 
and join some passing flock on its journey to the south. 
They would remain away all winter, but in the spring, 
when the geese winged their way northward, the tame 
birds would drop into the yard again and would fre- 
quently bring their mates or friends with them. 

This continued for several years, and gradually the 
little family of geese was increased until a large flock 
spent the summer on the farm. 

Many species of water-fowl and waders may be kept 
together, and if a large flying-cage can be provided 
you may have a very interesting and attractive "happy 
family." 

In planning a flying-cage, try to arrange it so as to 
include a brook or small pond. This need not be very 
large — a pond or pool 10 feet square is large enough — 
and if you have an old fountain on the premises the 
cage may be constructed around this. Build the cage 
of coarse-meshed wire netting, and carry it up to at 
least 25 feet in height. Have it roofed with netting, 
and if possible have some trees inside of the cage. 
Live trees are not necessary — old, dead, scraggly trees 
are as good as any — and if they have hollow limbs or 
branches, so much the better. By placing trees in 
the cage you can utilize them as supports for the net- 
ting roof, and the birds will love to perch on them and 
to build their nests among the branches or in the holes. 

Plant the ground inside of the cage with rank, rapid- 



294 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

growing grass and weeds, and a few strong, hardy 
shrubs. Have a portion of the floor of the cage dug 
out for a depth of 6 or 8 inches and filled with coarse 
pebbles or gravel, and place a number of large stones, 
some fallen trees or logs, and some loose brush in the 
cage. Be sure that the cage is built where the drain- 
age is good, and have the door large enough for you 
to enter easily. 

In such a cage a number of ornamental ducks, herons, 
egrets, cranes, a pelican or two, gulls and terns, galli- 
nules, grebes, ibis, and similar birds will thrive and be 
happy, and many of them will breed and rear their 
young. 

The birds may be fed by throwing the grain, etc., 
broadcast in the cage, or food dishes may be placed 
inside. The latter is the best method, for the birds 
learn to recognize their master in this way, and become 
much tamer than when the food is thrown into the 
cage. Fish, frogs, and other live things may be placed 
in the pool or brook, and the birds will enjoy diving for 
them and capturing them in their natural manner. 

A fine screen of copper or brass netting should be 
placed at each end of the brook or pool where it leaves 
and enters the cage, to prevent the escape of fish and 
young birds. 

Where a few ornamental water-fowl or waders are 
to be kept such an elaborate cage is not necessary. 
You can rear quite a number of beautiful ducks, cranes, 
herons, geese, or other birds in open runs with pens 
much like those described for pheasant raising. 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 295 

Such are the general directions for the care and 
housing of this class of birds, but as each species or 
family require special arrangements and food, more 
detailed directions will be given in the following para- 
graphs. 

Wild Ducks 

Nearly all wild ducks may be easily kept and suc- 
cessfully bred in, captivity. Some of these are excellent 
for pets and become exceedingly tame, while others 
never quite overcome their natural fear of man. Some 
of the species are very handsome, especially in the breed- 
ing-season, and few people realize how neat, trim, and 
beautiful a duck can be until they have observed wild 
ducks at close range. 

All of the wild ducks require about the same care and 
food as domestic ducks, but care should be taken not 
to overfeed them. Tame or domestic ducks that are 
raised solely for the table can be as fat and overfed as 
desired, but wild ducks, if kept for their beauty or for 
ornament, should be maintained in a natural condition; 
a wild duck is never pot-bellied or too fat to walk 
readily. 

The Mallards and Black-Ducks are so well known and 
so similar to our domestic ducks that it hardly pays 
to bother with them, but the dainty Tealsy the Pin- 
taily Widgeon, Shoveller, Redheads, and other species 
are very attractive and cheap, and may be easily 
reared on cracked corn and wheat fed twice a day, 
with broken clams, meat scraps, and chopped vegetables 
twice a week. 



296 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

The most beautiful of all ducks are the Mandarin 
and the Wood-Duck. The former, a Chinese and Japa- 
nese bird, is very dainty; the drake is brilliantly 
clothed in purple, green, red-brown, and bufF, the head 
is decorated by a long, soft, iridescent green crest, 
which is raised when the bird whistles its call, and each 
wing is ornamented by a pecuhar upright feather of 
rich golden-brown that gives a very odd appearance. 

It is a hardy, easily reared species and should be 
the first choice of every one fond of ornamental water- 
birds. 

The American Wood-Duck, or Summer Duck, is a 
native of our own country, and the male is fully as 
beautiful in its plumage as the Oriental Mandarin. 
The back and head are beautifully colored with golden, 
metallic green, purple, and blue; the breast is rich 
chestnut spotted with white; the throat, sides of head, 
belly, and a stripe over the eyes are snowy white, 
while the sides are buff, beautifully pencilled with 
black. A broad white and black bar on the shoulder 
and numerous white and black bars on the flanks add 
a finishing touch to the magnificent plumage. 

The Wood-Duck is very easily tamed, it is well adapted 
to captivity, and breeds freely if given a hollow tree 
in which to make its nest. This species and the last 
do not require water except to drink, and in their wild 
state live a great deal of the time in trees a long dis- 
tance from water. They may be fed on corn, wheat, 
vegetables, fruit, etc., and are very fond of acorns. 

Wood-Ducks, although formerly abundant in many 




WOOD-DUCK. 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 297 

parts of the country, are now rare in most places, and 
every effort should be made to protect and encourage 
them. 

Tree-Ducks 

The Tree-Ducks are natives of warm America, sel- 
dom wandering farther north than our most southern 
States. They are of dull but attractive shades of 
soft browns, grays, and buffs, and are easily reared in 
captivity. The neck is long, and the legs also are much 
longer than is the case with other ducks, so that they 
look very different from our ordinary species. 

In their wild state the Tree-Ducks live in woods and 
in trees, where they feed upon fruits, berries, and seeds, 
but they swim and dive readily, and spend a good deal 
of their time on the water. They nest in hollow trees 
and have a melodious whistling note. 

These birds are easily tamed, they are quite hardy, 
and may be fed on grain, corn, etc., like domestic 
poultry. They must be given protection and fairly 
warm quarters in winter, but do not require ponds or 
pools of water. 

Ornamental and Wild Geese 

A great many species of wild geese may be reared 
successfully in captivity, but all geese require consider- 
able room and water to do well, and they seldom become 
tame enough to be considered pets. They may be fed 
on grain, corn, and meat scraps and require little care. 
If allowed considerable freedom and kept in a large 



298 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

enclosure most of the species will breed readily. In 
fact, the Canada Goose is as easy to rear as the com- 
mon domestic goose, and is widely kept for market 
purposes. 

The most desirable species are the Canada Goose, the 
Brant, Snow Geese, Hutchins's Goose, and White-Fronted 
Goose. These are all hardy northern birds, and do not 
require protection in winter. 

The Egyptian or Nile Goose is a handsome, rather 
slender bird, and is far more desirable than any other 
species where there is a limited amount of space and 
really tame birds are desired. The colors of this bird 
are quite unusual for a goose, consisting of various 
shades of metallic brown, buff, green, and black com- 
bined with pure white. 

The bird is hardy but should be aflForded some pro- 
tection in cold weather and is easily tamed and shows 
more intelligence and affection than any other species 
of its family. 

Swans 

These graceful and attractive birds are too well- 
known to require any description. They are suitable 
for parks and large estates but require fairly large 
bodies of water. The Black Swan, Black-Necked Swan, 
and the White Swan are all domesticated and do well 
in captivity. 

Gulls and Terns 

These beautiful birds are often seen in parks and 
zoological gardens, and nearly all the varieties are easy 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 299 

to keep in captivity; but many of the varieties are 
very quarrelsome and cannot be safely kept with other 
birds, and others must be given meat and fish each 
day if they are to thrive. 

Most of the gulls and terns will eat any sort of ofFal, 
table scraps, and meat; and some varieties will live 
perfectly well on a vegetarian diet of bread, vegetables, 
and grain. 

The smaller varieties are the most desirable, and the 
Laughing Gull, the Franklin s Gull, and the Bonaparte' s 
Gull are all very handsome and elegant, with white 
and gray bodies and black heads. These varieties do 
not require water and will eat grain as well as insects, 
scraps, etc. They also devour birds' eggs and should 
not be permitted in cages where other birds are breed- 
ing. They are all hardy and will stand our northern 
winters but should be provided with shelters which 
they can enter if they so desire. 

The terns are related to the gulls but are almost 
helpless on the ground and, while they are very hand- 
some and attractive birds, they cannot be recommended 
as pets or for rearing in captivity. 

Herons 

Herons and egrets live very well in captivity if they 
have plenty of space and some water, and they can get 
along without any water at all save what they require 
for drinking. 

Although some herons will live without live or fresh 
fish, yet they will all do better on a fish and animal 



300 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

diet; and as they seldom become tame and cannot be 
properly classed as pets, they are mainly valuable in 
parks or large flying-cages or enclosures, where they 
are very ornamental. 

Cranes 

Unlike the herons, with which they are often con- 
fused, the cranes are most desirable birds to rear in 
captivity. Nearly all the cranes are hardy and are 
easy to feed and care for. 

The best variety to keep is the Demoiselle Crane, a 
rather small bird which stands about 2 feet high. This 
bird is elegantly gowned in a delicate shade of gray and 
has a long, flowing crest, a tassel of soft feathers on 
the breast, and a drooping bunch of plumes on the 
lower back. 

The Demoiselle may be fed on the same food as recom- 
mended for pheasants, and becomes a perfect pet, fol- 
lowing its owner about, eating from the hand, and 
learning to come at a call. It does not require water 
and may be kept in a run or enclosure or ma}^ be given 
the freedom of the yard or grounds, where it will prove 
very useful in devouring grubs, caterpillars, and insects. 

Storks 

These well-known birds are easily kept; they are 
very hard}^ do not require water, and will thrive on 
meat and waste scraps from the table. Sometimes a 
stork will become very tame and a good pet, but as a 
rule they can scarcely be placed in the pet class. 





WATER-FOWL. 

I. Mandarin Duck. 2. Egyptian Goose. 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 301 

Flamingoes 

These grotesque pink birds always attract attention. 
Although a native of warm climates, the flamingo will 
stand a great deal of cold weather, and unless the 
winters are severe a well-protected tight shed or house 
is all that is necessary for acclimated European birds. 
It is wisest to give them a fairly warm house during 
cold weather, however, for they are expensive birds, 
and you should not run any risk of their dying from 
exposure. 

Flamingoes seldom become really tame, but they are 
striking and interesting specimens for parks or estates 
and are easy to keep. They should be kept in runs or 
enclosures with water and may be fed on soaked rice, 
chopped meat, fish, and table scraps. 

Pelicans 

Both the Brown Pelican and the White Pelican may 
be reared in captivity, but the European white variety 
is the one ordinarily seen. 

This is a hardy variety and will thrive almost any- 
where. It is very easy to keep and will devour meat, 
fish, table scraps, mice, rats, frogs, or any small creature 
with equal rehsh. 

Pelicans seldom become tame enough to be classed 
as pets, but they are interesting in their habits and are 
good birds to keep in a large flying-cage or enclosure 
with other water-fowl. 



302 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Spoonbills 

These odd, heron-like birds with their white or rosy 
plumage and peculiar spoon-shaped bills are often kept 
in parks, but they are delicate and require water and 
animal food. They cannot be recommended as pets. 
The same is true of the boatbill, another heron-like 
bird with a remarkable beak, which is shaped like a 
round-bottomed boat. 

Cormorants 

Many of the cormorants thrive in confinement, but 
they require a diet of fish and are very dirty birds. 
In China and other Oriental countries the natives make 
tame cormorants catch fish for their owners. Rings 
are placed around the birds' necks, so they cannot 
swallow the fish, and the cormorants are then placed in 
the water. Their natural instinct causes them to dive 
and catch fish, which they bring to the surface to swal- 
low. The ring around the neck prevents this, and their 
master takes the finny prey for his own use and re- 
wards the birds with small bits of fish. The birds are 
fairly tame and are taught to perch on the rails of the 
fishing-boat or on a rod carried by the fisherman. I 
have seen pelicans tamed and used in the same manner. 

Ibis 

The various kinds of ibis are readily domesticated, 
and they sometimes become very tame, indeed. Al- 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 303 

though related to the heron, they are more hke storks 
in habits and in respect to their diet and do as well 
without water and a fish diet as with them. 

In a wild state the ibis will eat almost anything 
in the way of insects, frogs, lizards, fish, and snails, 
and is very fond of crabs, shrimp, etc. 

In confinement the ibis will eat meat scraps, broken 
clams, shrimp, fish, table scraps, and even softened 
rice, grain, fruit, and bread. 

The Wood Ibis is a large and unattractive variety, 
and is not truly an ibis but a stork. The White Ibis 
is an elegant bird found wild in our Southern States and 
tropical America. It is mostly pure white in color, 
with a slight rosy bloom on the breast, and has pure 
blue-black tips to the wings. The young and imma- 
ture birds are brown. 

They are hardy birds and will stand a good deal of 
cold weather and are easily tamed and become quite 
attached to their owners. 

The Glossy Ibis is another American species, but a 
nearly related species is found in Europe. These birds 
have a brilliant, glossy-brown plumage and are very 
docile and easily tamed. 

The most beautiful and attractive of all the ibis 
family is the magnificent Scarlet Ibis of South America. 
This bird is entirely rich scarlet, with blue-black tips 
to the wings and looks as if dipped in scarlet dye. 

The Scarlet Ibis is very rare in collections, but is 
common in many of the less-settled portions of tropical 
America. If given warm quarters in winter the Scarlet 



304 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Ibis may be easily kept in confinement, and it becomes 
very tame. 

After being kept for some time the bird loses the 
brilliant hues of its plumage and becomes rosy or 
pinkish or even dirty white. In some places in Europe 
specialists in wild birds and animals can recolor these 
birds, as well as flamingoes and spoonbills, by feeding 
certain kinds of food. 

To keep the color bright and the plumage in good 
condition fresh shrimp, crawfish, and crabs should be 
fed twice a week. 

Shore-Birds 

The birds included under this head are the various 
plovers, snipe, sandpipers, etc. Most of these birds 
are difficult to keep in confinement unless provided 
with open ground, growing plants, and natural condi- 
tions, and as they are not particularly attractive and 
do not become very tame they are not suitable for pets. 

Many of the plover, however, are very easy to keep 
and become quite tame. The natives of Haiti and San 
Domingo domesticate a large plover which is common 
in San Domingo and is known as the "boukaroo." 
This bird becomes very tame and is allowed to roam at 
large about the premises and proves very useful by 
devouring mice, roaches, and vermin of all kinds. 

Gallinules 

If you have a pond or other water a few of the galli- 
nules, mud-hens, and coots will be good birds to keep. 
Most of these birds are dull-colored, but the Purple 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 305 

Gallinule is a brilliant creature with green, blue, and 
purple plumage. Most of the gallinules are fairly 
hardy, but they will not stand the winter without 
protection. They feed upon all sorts of water creatures, 
insects, etc., when wild, but in confinement will eat 
soaked rice, table scraps, and mocking-bird food. 

The gallinules are remarkable for their huge, slender 
feet which enable the birds to walk over soft mud with- 
out sinking in. The mud-hen or coot has feet with 
odd, rounded webs on each toe, and the bird swims 
and dives readily. 

The oddest of all this class of birds is the jacana, a 
small, handsome species, found in Mexico and tropical 
America. The jacana is about the size of a robin and 
is richly colored, with a black head and neck and red- 
dish-brown body and yellow wings. On each shoulder 
there is a sharp spur, and the forehead is ornamented 
with a leaf-like, horny growth. The most remarkable 
feature of this bird is the extreme length of the toes, 
which seem out of all proportion to the rest of the bird. 
These long toes enable the jacana to run over the lily- 
pads and water-plants of its native ponds and lakes 
without sinking into the water. 

When wild, the jacana eats insects and small aquatic 
creatures, and in captivity it will thrive on insects, 
chopped meat, small shrimp, and bread, while fresh- 
water snails and tadpoles are greatly relished. 

These are interesting birds but are difficult to tame 
and to care for; they are so curious that they are well 
worth keeping if you have an opportunity of securing 
one. 



3o6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Screamers 

These are handsome South American birds, beau- 
tifully colored with metaUic green and brown, and 
with delicate reticulations and stripes of white and 
black. They are quite large, often as large as a small 
turkey or a large rooster, and have rather long legs 
Hke those of a crane but much stouter. The head is 
usually decorated with a tuft of feathers or an odd, 
fleshy growth, and the bill is powerful and hooked at 
the tip. The forward edge of the wing bears two 
sharp, bony spurs, with which the owner can inflict 
serious wounds on other birds. In South America 
the screamers, as well as a similar bird, known as the 
"Seriema," are kept by the natives as guardians of 
their fowls, and these queer birds take as much care 
of the poultry intrusted to them as shepherd-dogs 
with flocks of sheep. Screamers are easily tamed and 
seem to have a natural instinct to guard other birds. 
They are brave and splendid fighters and do not hesi- 
tate to attack birds or animals much larger than them- 
selves. Seldom, indeed, does a hawk, cat, dog, or fox 
escape from an encounter with these doughty birds 
without receiving severe wounds inflicted by their 
sharp spurs and powerful bills. 

Not only does the screamer warn the poultry of 
hawks and other enemies, but it keeps them from stray- 
ing, finds them food, and leads them from and to their 
roosts with wonderful care and intelligence. 

The screamer is a sort of bird-puzzle, for while m 







WADING BIRDS. 

I. Demoiselle Crane. 2. Screamer. 3. Seriama. 



WATER-FOWL AND WADING-BIRDS 307 

many respects it seems to belong among the wading- 
birds, yet in habits and other characters it appears 
more hke a galhnaceous or scratching bird. For our 
purposes it really makes very little difference whether 
we include the screamer among the waders or the 
game-birds. It is of much greater interest to know 
that it is easily kept in captivity, is ver}^ affectionate 
and easily tamed, and may be allowed the freedom of 
the premises without danger of its attempting to 
escape. 

It will find a good portion of its food of its own 
accord, but in addition it should be fed with fruit, 
vegetables, grain, and soaked rice, with table scraps 
and a little meat now and then. In winter the screamer 
must be kept in a warm building, and if meal-worms, 
ants' eggs, and insects are given it they will be greatly 
relished. 

If you keep pheasants or other game-birds or even 
common poultry, and have a tame screamer, you will 
be greatly entertained by watching the manner in 
which the little South American takes possession of 
the flock. 

It is a born leader, and like other Latin-American 
rulers it is bound to be in authority whether its sub- 
jects like it or not. Let any rooster challenge the 
screamer, or question its ability to hold its own, and 
the valiant creature will administer a beating to the 
imprudent cock that will teach it never again to inter- 
fere with the new dictator. 



CHAPTER XVIII 
DOVES AND PIGEONS 

Common Pigeons 

IN many ways pigeons make ver}^ desirable pets. 
In the first place, they may be kept either for 
pleasure or profit or for both purposes combined, 
and a well-conducted pigeon farm is a really profitable 
aff'air, for squabs invariably command good prices. 

As pets pigeons may be kept in a comparatively 
small space, they are easily cared for and fed, are 
hardy, and live out-of-doors all winter. They are 
easily tamed and become very affectionate, and learn 
to recognize their owner very soon. 

Many of the domestic pigeons are very handsome; 
others are noted for their odd forms, plumage, or habits. 
Such breeds as Fantails, Capuchins, Pouters, etc., are 
interesting and attractive, and any boy will find a lot 
of fun and interest in keeping a few "Homers," or 
*' Carrier-Pigeons." 

In raising fancy pigeons care should be taken to 
keep each breed in a separate loft or they will cross 
and the young will soon be like ordinar}^ pigeons or 
mixed breeds of no real value. Many of these fancy 
doves are poor parents, and a few good, healthy, strong 

308 



DOVES AND PIGEONS 309 

pairs of common pigeons should be kept for use as 
foster-parents. By taking the eggs away from these 
birds and substituting the eggs of the fancy breeds, the 
young will be stronger and better. 

Correctly cared for and housed, pigeons are not 
either dirty or offensive, but they should have proper 
accommodations and plenty of room. Domestic pigeons 
breed readily and increase rapidly, and if you wish to 
keep your flock within bounds, you will have to dis- 
pose of the surplus young or else sell or trade off the 
old ones and keep the young for your flock. If you 
keep fancy stock you will have no trouble in disposing 
of the surplus, while even ordinary pigeons are always 
salable to marketmen, either when squabs or fully 
grown. 

Pigeons' eggs, although small, are excellent for the 
table and are frequently in demand for invalids, and 
most people who keep pigeons for pets will find it 
easier to dispose of the eggs than to kill or sell the doves 
after they are hatched and reared. It is a great mis- 
take to crowd pigeons, and you should decide before- 
hand how many birds you expect to keep and arrange 
the houses or cotes accordingly; and if you decide to 
increase the number of your pets the accommodations 
must be enlarged to correspond. One or two pairs of 
pigeons may be kept in a very small space, and the 
method of housing them and the arrangement of the 
cote will depend largely upon whether the birds are to 
be allowed to fly at large or are to be kept in confine- 
ment. 



3IO PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Usually it is just about as easy to keep, half a dozen 
pairs of birds as one pair, however. For six pairs of 
birds you should have a loft 5 or 6 feet high by 6 feet 
square, and unless the birds are to be permitted to fly 
about as they please, this loft or house should be con- 
nected with a large, roomy, flying-cage, I2 by 6 by lo 
feet. This may be constructed of scantling covered 
with wire netting, and if kept in this way the birds will 
be much tamer than if allowed to roam all about. 

If your pets are really fine birds of pure-bred stock 
they should be kept in this manner, for if allowed their 
freedom some one will be sure to steal or trap them. 

Cage and Breeding Loft 

The flying-cage should have a 4-inch shelf at each 
end, about 4 feet from the ground, and separated a 
few inches from the netting. These shelves will serve 
as perches for the birds, and the pigeons will get plenty 
of exercise by flying back and forth from one to the 
other. The floor of the flying-cage should be raised 
a few inches from the earth and covered with a layer 
of sand or cement. 

Within the cage you should have tins or dishes for 
water and grain and a large vessel for the birds to 
bathe in. The bathtub should be 3 or 4 inches deep 
and 2 feet square, and should be filled with fresh, clean 
water every morning in warm weather, and in cold 
weather it should be filled with tepid water and placed 
in the cage once or twice a week in the warmest part 
of the day. 



DOVES AND PIGEONS 311 

The breeding loft is the true home of the doves and 
may be constructed specially for the purpose in the 
form of a small building, or it may be fitted up within 
the loft of a barn or outhouse. 

Across the back wall shelves should be placed, each 
being a foot wide and spaced 14 or 15 inches apart. 
Place an upright partition in the middle of these 
shelves so that they are divided into two sets, each 3 
feet long. Then nail four boards, 9 to 12 inches wide, 
over the ends of the shelves, leaving a space open in the 
middle as shown in the illustration. Leave the space 
below the lowest shelf open and place the food and 
water dishes here where they will be protected by the 
shelves above. 

Along the sides of the loft a number of perches with 
shelves should be arranged as shown in the accompany- 
ing cut. The perches consist of round pieces of wood 
driven into holes or screwed to boards fastened to the 
walls so they can be easily removed, and below the 
perches removable shelves are placed. This makes 
cleaning very easy, for when the shelves and perches 
are dirty they may be taken down, new ones hung in 
their place, and the dirty ones washed off with a hose, 
scrubbed with soap and water, and put away for use 
when the next set requires cleaning. 

The doors to the loft and flying-cage should be large 
enough to allow you to pass in and out readily, and the 
entire inside of the loft should be painted or white- 
washed. If paint is used it should be scrubbed with 
weak carbolic-acid solution every three or four months; 



312 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

if whitewash is used it may be given a fresh coat once 
in three months to keep it properly clean. 

The floor may be sprinkled with pitch-pine sawdust 
an inch deep, but as this is inflammable and dangerous 
a layer of sand sprinkled with " Sanitas " powder will be 
better. This will prevent any bad odor and will keep 
out lice and other vermin. Whether sand or sawdust 
is used, it should be swept out and replaced with fresh 
every week. At the same time all droppings should be 
scraped and brushed from walls, shelves, boxes, etc., 
and the woodwork should be brushed over with weak 
carbolic acid or some similar disinfectant, and any bare 
spots of wood should be whitewashed. 

Feeding 

The food should consist principally of small dried 
peas and grain, such as rice, cracked corn, oats, barley, 
wheat, and an occasional handful of millet, hemp, rape, 
and canary seed. 

During cold weather feed mostly hard grain, peas, 
and beans, and during the breeding-season soft grain 
with boiled potatoes, grubs, worms, a little chopped 
meat and fat, and lettuce, clover, and grass. 

Make a change from one food to another gradual, 
leaving off^ one thing and substituting another, a little 
at a time. Also keep a salt-cake in the loft at all times. 
Salt-cakes may be bought already prepared, but they 
are easily made as follows: pound up equal parts of 
old mortar, sand, loam, and earth, and add to this mix- 
ture one half pint of coarse salt. Mix into a stiff" 



DOVES AND PIGEONS 313 

paste with salt water and place in a box with an open- 
ing in the top large enough for the birds to get their 
heads through but too small for them to get into 
themselves, as otherwise they will tread the mixture 
into a solid, hard mass. This salt-cake box should be 
kept always filled and placed where it is protected 
from rain and the birds' droppings. 

Nests 

Place earthenware nest-pans on the shelves, and in 
these sprinkle a little sawdust and "Sanitas" powder, 
covering this with some hay, fine twigs, and straw. As 
the first egg is laid about two days before the other, it 
often hatches first and the young squab is fed and 
reared at the expense of the second, which frequently 
becomes weak and sickly and dies in consequence. 
Remove the first egg, therefore, as soon as laid, sub- 
stitute a nest-egg, and replace the real egg as soon as 
the second one is deposited. In this way both the 
young will hatch at about the same time and will be 
equally fed and cared for. 

Always allow your pigeons to set and hatch their 
eggs wherever laid, but if deposited on the floor place 
them in a nest-pan in the same spot. 

If you are raising delicate fancy pigeons you will have 
better success if after the first ten days you give the 
young to a pair of some common pigeons, substituting 
them for the young of the latter, which may be sold or 
dressed for squabs. Be careful to choose foster-parents 
whose young are of practically the same age as the ones 



314 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

given them, or your fancy young will be unsuitably 
cared for and will be sickly or die. 

Sometimes you may be compelled to rear squabs by 
hand, and while it is occasionally difficult to make them 
eat in this way, yet it may be done by chewing up bread 
or crackers and feeding from your own mouth. If you 
do not care to do this — and I confess it is not very 
pleasant — you may be able to feed them by soaking 
peas or grain in hot water until thoroughly softened 
and then pushing the material down their throats with 
your finger; but, of course, you should not do this until 
the food has cooled oflF. To feed in this way, hold the 
bill of the squab in the left hand, open it gently and 
squeeze a little of the softened food down the bill with 
the fingers of your right hand. Birds raised in this 
way have one great merit — they are very tame and 
make splendid, affectionate pets. 

Always move slowly and quietly when in the loft or 
cage among the birds and avoid any sudden or violent 
motions, and your pigeons will soon learn not to fear 
you and will be tame and confiding. 

The greatest enemies of tame pigeons are rats and 
mice. Keep a sharp lookout for these pests, and if 
there are any holes through which they can enter 
stop them up with cement or tin. You can scarcely 
keep them from entering the flying-cage at night, but 
if the loft or cote is so arranged that the rodents cannot 
reach it they will do no harm in the cage beyond de- 
vouring the food. Placing the food dishes on smooth 
iron uprights stuck in the ground will prevent the rats 



i 



DOVES AND PIGEONS 315 

reaching the food, and a projecting ledge or shelf of tin 
nailed across the wall of the loft on the outside and 
below the entrance will prevent the pests from climb- 
ing up and entering. 

Pigeons are not subject to many diseases if kept 
clean and given plenty of exercise, but they are some- 
times troubled with lice. Frequent whitewashing and 
liberal use of disinfectants will usually prevent vermin 
from attacking the birds, but if they do get a foothold 
they should be destroyed by the use of Persian Insect- 
Powder rubbed into the feathers of the birds. After 
this is applied to the pigeons and has remained on them 
a few hours, wash over all the wooden parts of the cage 
and loft with carbolic-acid solution and rewhitewash. 

If you have a large loft and many pigeons, it is a good 
plan to fumigate their quarters once a month by burn- 
ing a sulphur candle inside the place after shutting all 
doors and openings. Of course, the pigeons must all 
be outside while this is going on, and after fumigating, 
the doors and other entrances should be left open for 
an hour or two before the birds are allowed to re-enter 
the loft. 

Wild Doves and Pigeons 

The common domestic pigeon or dove is well known 
to every one and is justly admired for its gentle ways, 
soft voice, and handsome appearance; but many other 
species of the pigeon family are far more beautiful and 
are just as easy to keep as the common dove. 

There are a great number of varieties of pigeon 



3i6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

found in various parts of the world, and nearly every 
one of these may be tamed and kept successfully in 
captivity. Some of these are wonderfully brilliant in 
plumage or striking in form, or are so unlike ordinary 
doves that one would never recognize them as belonging 
to the same family as ordinary pigeons. Others are 
so tiny that they are veritable pygmies, while others 
are true giants of their tribe. 

The various American wild pigeons and doves are 
nearly all protected by law and cannot legally be kept 
in captivity, but most of them are easily tamed and 
breed when domesticated. 

In Europe the wild "turtle-doves" and "ring- 
doves" are great favorites, and they are often sold by 
bird dealers in this country. They are much smaller 
than the common pigeon, being about the size of our 
American "mourning-dove." In color they are a soft 
pinkish fawn-gray, or "dove color," with a ring of 
white and dark feathers around the neck. They are 
very affectionate, docile birds, and may be kept in 
cages or allowed the liberty of the house and grounds 
like the common dove. They breed in captivity and 
are easily cared for and fed, the treatment being sim- 
ilar to that for ordinary pigeons. 

Ground-Doves 

These are the smallest of the pigeon family, being 
scarcely larger than sparrows, and are very attractive 
and cunning birds. They are found in the southern 
United States, the West Indies, and tropical America 




1. Nuns. 

2. Baldhead. 



3. Owl. 

4. Jacobin. 



BREEDS OF PIGEONS. 

5. Trumpeter. 7- Barb. 9- Turbit. 

6. Carrier. 8. Fantail. lo. Tumbler. 



DOVES AND PIGEONS 317 

and will not stand northern winters out-of-doors. 
Ground-doves feed and live upon or near the ground 
and nest in bushes or low trees. There are several 
varieties, but they are all more or less alike in color, 
usually being grayish, reddish, or brownish above and 
pinkish or barred below. 

These birds thrive ver}^ well in confinement and live 
contentedly in cages. They require plenty of gravel 
and sand and will eat all sorts of seeds, insects, and 
mocking-bird food as well as bread, meal, and other 
vegetable food. Ground-doves are very affectionate, 
and thrive best when kept in pairs. Their note is won- 
derfully loud for the size of the bird and consists of the 
usual dove "coo." 

Quail-Doves 

These are plump, short-tailed, ground-loving doves 
found in tropical America and the West Indies. They 
resemble quails more than pigeons in form, and their 
habits are so much like quails or partridges that the 
natives, where these birds occur, always call them 
"partridges" or its equivalent in their own language. 

There are several varieties of these birds, but they 
are all very beautiful in plumage. The Ruddy Quail- 
Dove is brilliant coppery-brown above, with golden 
and purple reflections and pink or salmon below. The 
Key West Quail-Dove is reddish-purple above, with 
bronze-green head and wine-pink belly and with a 
white stripe below the eye. The Blue-Headed Quail- 
Dove is olive above, with a beautiful blue head bordered 



3i8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

with black and separated from the black throat and 
chest by a white band. The lower parts are rusty 
brown and the black chest is edged with white. This 
is a magnificent bird and is found in Cuba and the 
Florida Keys. 

Although seldom seen in captivity in the North, these 
quail-doves are favorites as pets in the West Indies, 
and in the countries where they occur they are often 
seen for sale at a few cents each. Any boy who visits 
the West Indies and has an opportunity to acquire any 
of these lovely birds should certainly do so. They are 
easily kept and become very tame and affectionate 
and will thrive in a small cage or enclosure. 

Quail-doves eat various soft seeds, fruit, insects, and 
young buds, and will live on grain softened in water, 
mocking-bird food, bread-crumbs, etc. They dislike 
strong sunlight and should be kept in a shady situation. 
Their feathers, like those of most doves, come away 
very easily, and great care should be used in moving 
or handling them. If startled so they flutter about 
they will lose a great many feathers. Quail-doves love 
sand-baths and delight to snuggle down in a bed of 
soft earth. 

Australian Pigeons 

The doves and pigeons of Australia and the neigh- 
boring islands are very beautiful, and many of them 
are of great size. 

The numerous "fruit-pigeons" of these islands are 
often brilliantly colored in green, yellow, blue, etc., 



I 




DOVES AND PIGEONS. 
I. Turtle-Dove. 2. Crowned Pigeon. 3. Quail Dove. 4. Ground Dove. 



DOVES AND PIGEONS 319 

and are frequently brought home in confinement by 
sailors and sea-captains. The largest of all these East 
Indian doves is the giant "Victoria," or "crowned- 
pigeon," of New Guinea. This splendid bird is now 
kept for sale by many dealers in fancy birds and is so 
handsome and striking that it is always in demand by 
bird lovers who have large aviaries or a collection of 
ornamental birds. 

The crowned-pigeon is as large as a common fowl, 
and is a beautiful slate-blue in color, with black and 
red-brown markings and large areas of white on wings 
and tail. The chief beauty of the bird is in the crest, 
which is formed of long, soft, graceful, upright feathers, 
unlike the head ornament of any other bird. 

These birds are easily domesticated, are fairly hardy, 
and will thrive on grain, fruit, and similar things. 

They are too large to be kept in a cage but may be 
kept in a wire-netting house or enclosure or in a large 
aviary with success. 

All of the larger species of these unusual pigeons and 
doves may be kept in a loft and flying-cage like common 
pigeons, or even in company with the latter during the 
summer, but in cold weather they should be kept in a 
warm house or building. The same food that serves 
for ordinary doves will usually answer equally well for 
the wild species in captivity, but, as a rule, they all re- 
quire more green food, fruit, and insects than the 
domestic pigeons. 

If any of these foreign or wild species lay eggs in 
captivity it will be better to give the eggs to a pair of 



320 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

common pigeons than trust to the real parents, for 
these are often so easily disturbed that they will desert 
or neglect their eggs or young. If they show signs of 
being troubled when their eggs are taken away, some 
ordinary pigeon's eggs may be given them. If they 
hatch these out, well and good, and if they do not it 
will be no great loss. 



PART III— AQUARIUMS AND REPTILES 

CHAPTER XIX 

FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 

Preparation 

A WELL-KEPT and well-stocked aquarium is a 
very attractive object. Even a small globe with 
a goldfish or two is an addition to a room, and 
comparatively stupid goldfish are far better than no 
pets at all. 

An aquarium affords an opportunity for keeping a 
number of very interesting pets without any muss and 
with very little trouble; and even the tiny inhabitants 
of an aquarium will learn to recognize the person who 
cares for them. 

Before planning an aquarium you should decide just 
how large and how complete you wish to have it. It 
is very disappointing to find your aquarium far too 
small to hold all the interesting creatures that you 
want to keep. An aquarium should never be over- 
crowded; it is better to have a large aquarium with 
few, than a small aquarium with too many, forms of 
animal life. 

If you merely wish to keep goldfish or other fish, 
turtles, tadpoles, or newts, you can use a bowl or even 

321 



322 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

a glass jar, and if the water is kept clean and the 
creatures are properly fed they will live and thrive for a 
long time. Such an affair is not really an aquarium, 
however, for a true aquarium must contain a number 
of different forms of animal life and must have enough 
vegetable life to balance the animals and keep the 
water fresh and pure. If an aquarium is properly 
made and the right proportions of plants and animals 
are kept in it, the water will remain clear and will not 
require replenishing, except to replace that portion 
lost by evaporation. 

The best form for an aquarium is rectangular and 
deeper than wide, and the all-glass aquariums are far 
better than those composed of a frame of iron or metal 
bottom and uprights and panes of glass. 

Aquariums may be constructed at home from wood 
or metal and glass, but the}^ are never satisfactory, 
and any person who can afford to own pets or keep an 
aquarium can afford to purchase one ready-made. 
They are far from expensive, and a small, ready-made 
aquarium is far better than a large, home-made affair. 

If you have a pond or fountain in the yard you may 
convert this into an outdoor aquarium, but it will 
not be as interesting as the glass indoor affair, for you 
can only observe a very small portion of the water life. 

Animals and Plants 

There are a certain number of species of aquatic 
animals which will live peaceably together in an aqua- 
rium, but many other species are rude disturbers of the 



FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 323 

peace or are cannibalistic creatures and cannot be per- 
mitted in the same aquarium with more peaceable 
creatures. Goldfish, carp, small fish of any sort, very 
small turtles, medium-sized water insects, and tadpoles 
will all get on together, and fresh-water snails of vari- 
ous kinds should be added. Newts or salamanders 
are also very interesting additions and agree well with 
most other inhabitants. Avoid frogs unless they are 
very small; even a medium-sized frog will devour other 
creatures of large size. Large turtles should also be 
kept in a separate aquarium, and carnivorous fishes, 
such as pickerel, pike, and eels, should not be kept with 
other forms of life. 

Many of our native fish are very handsome and in- 
teresting. The pretty sticklebacks build neat nests of 
aquatic grass and weeds within which they rest and 
rear their young, while the beautiful sunfish known also 
as roach and pumpkinseeds build nests of pebbles on 
the bottom of ponds and lakes. Your aquarium should 
always have the bottom covered with an inch or so of 
washed bird gravel, for many aquatic creatures require 
sand, while others burrow in it. 

The various kinds of dace are very attractive fish, 
but for all-around beauty and satisfaction you cannot 
find anything better than goldfish. The ordinary, old- 
fashioned red or silver varieties are pretty and graceful, 
but some of the fancy breeds are more interesting and 
attractive. Some of these have long, trailing, veil- 
like tails; others have double or treble tails; others have 
elongated fins; while still others have great, goggle eyes 



324 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

and curious, stub noses. In Japan goldfish have been 
bred for odd forms and striking pecuHarities for cen- 
turies, and there are over one hundred named varieties 
known. 

A few tadpoles are always interesting, and whether 
these are the young of frogs or of salamanders you may 
watch them develop into the adults and find a great 
deal of interest while doing so. If the tadpoles are 
those of frogs the hind legs will sprout first, whereas 
if they are the young of salamanders the front feet will 
first appear. 

Many water insects are suitable for the aquarium, 
and the funn}^ water boatmen that skim about on the 
surface of pools and ponds should find a place in every 
home aquarium. The shining, black water-beetles are 
also good, and it is great fun to watch these fellows dive 
to the bottom of the water with their air supply in 
the form of glistening, silvery bubbles. The odd 
caddice-fly larvae are also droll and interesting crea- 
tures. These are caterpillar-like larvae that make odd 
little homes of tiny pebbles, sticks, or shells and live 
on the bottoms of brooks and ponds. They retreat 
within their little houses when disturbed, and crawl 
around on the bottom with only their head and front 
legs protruding from their cells when feeding. The 
adults are pretty moth-like flies. Young dragon-flies, 
May-flies, and, in fact, any small or medium-sized water 
insect, may be kept in the aquarium, but a netting or 
gauze cover should be placed over it or the insects may 
take wing and fly away at night. 



FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 325 

For plants you may use watercress, duckweed, and, 
in fact, any sort of water-plant that you find growing 
in ponds, lakes, or brooks, with the exception of the 
sHmy, soft growth, commonly called ''frog-spittle^'" 
which should always be avoided. 

If you have a fairly large aquarium you may add a 
great deal to its beauty and to the health and happiness 
of its inmates by placing some growing potted water- 
plants in it. Pickerel-weed, arrowhead, sweet-flag, and 
pond-lilies may be planted in pots filled with peat and 
sand and lowered into the aquarium so that the leaves 
and flowers are above the surface. Stones should 
then be piled around the pots on the bottom of the 
aquarium so as to hold the pots firmly in position and 
also to serve as a hiding-place for various forms of 
animal life. 

Always have your aquarium filled with water and 
the plants in position before collecting the animals and 
insects for it. 

Never place the grotesque, ugly, lava castles sold by 
dealers in an aquarium; they are incongruous, ridicu- 
lous things and are neither artistic, ornamental, nor 
useful. A few rough stones are far better and more 
satisfactory. When the aquarium is all prepared and 
the plants in place you may start to hunt up the 
animals to inhabit it. 

Collecting the Specimens 

The goldfish may, of course, be purchased of the 
nearest dealer, and small turtles, newts, and a few other 



326 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

creatures may at times be obtained from the same 
source. The majority of your aquatic creatures must, 
however, be sought in their native haunts — in brooks, 
ponds, and lakes; and more than half the fun in having 
an aquarium consists in going out in the country and 
catching specimens to live in it. 

The best place in which to collect is an old mill- 
pond or a small lake. Before starting out, however, 
you must have certain tools and implements for the 
work. These consist of a dip-net, a scoop, and several 
wide-mouthed glass jars which may be carried in a 
pail or basket. 

The dip-net should be about lo inches in diameter, 
and 15 inches deep, and may be constructed from an 
old fish-net sewed onto a stout metal ring on a wooden 
handle at least 6 feet in length. The scoop is a most 
important and essential implement. It consists of an 
old saucepan with the bottom punched full of holes, 
one side flattened out as shown in the cut, and a long 
wooden handle fastened firmly to it. 

The dip-net is useful in capturing fish, turtles, frogs, 
and other lively creatures; but with the scoop you 
can dig and scrape up the sand and mud at the bottom 
of the pond, and in this way you will obtain a great 
many things which would otherwise escape you. 

Snails, insects, crustaceans, small fish, tadpoles, 
frogs, and turtles may all be caught in the scoop, and 
it is by far the most useful device you can find for pond 
collecting. 

A small iron rake with a long handle is also very use- 



FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 327 

ful. With this you can rake aquatic weeds onto the 
shore, and by looking in this material you will find 
many live creatures. The rake will also enable you 
to get fresh-water clams or mussels. 

As soon as your animals are caught, place them in 
jars of fresh, clean water, and keep them covered or 
protected from direct sunshine. Water-plants may 
also be placed in the jars, and if a few plants are put 
in each jar they will prevent the captives from being 
shaken about and frightened or injured. 

The best season for collecting is earl}^ in the spring. 
At this time a great many aquatic creatures are breed- 
ing and are far easier to catch than they will be later 
in the summer, while many other species are sluggish 
and burrow in the mud until warm weather sets in. 

You will be mightily surprised at the great variety 
of animal life that you will find in a small mill-pond 
and you will have no difl&culty in collecting enough spe- 
cimens to fill half a dozen aquariums. If you are inter- 
ested in raising this class of animals I advise you to 
have several aquariums and to keep certain forms of 
animal life in each. One may contain turtles and 
frogs with snails and plants; another herbivorous fish 
with newts or salamanders, tadpoles, water insects, 
snails, and plants; and a third may be devoted to 
carnivorous fish, such as bass, pickerel, eels, etc., with 
snails and plants. 

Some people would not consider these aquatic 
creatures worthy of the name of pets, but they make a 
great mistake. Many of our turtles, fishes, newts, and 



328 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

even frogs are capable of being tamed and will feed 
from the hand or will learn to recognize people at 
sight. I have known country boys who have tamed 
wild fish in ponds and lakes merely b}^ feeding them 
regularl}^, so that the trout, bass, perch, etc., would 
swim to their feeding spot when the boys approached 
and would take food from their fingers and even allow 
the youngsters to stroke them gently. I have repeat- 
edly kept water-salamanders that were so tame as to 
crawl up on one's finger if it was held out to them and, 
moreover, these newts would recognize a person at some 
distance and would show every sign of pleasure at 
one's approach. 

Turtles, although possessing but little intelligence, 
will learn to recognize their master and will allow him 
to scratch or stroke their heads and will take food from 
his hand although they may be thrown into a perfect 
frenzy of fear at the approach of any one else. Many 
frogs will learn to eat from the hand and will be very 
tame in the presence of their owners, and I have even 
known water insects to become so thoroughly accus- 
tomed to human beings as to feed from one's fingers. 
In fact, about the only aquatic animal that cannot be 
considered as a pet is the snail. I have never yet seen 
a trained snail or a tame fresh-water clam. 

Care and Feeding 

A great many water animals and plants will thrive 
in very dirty, foul water, but a dirty aquarium is an 
eyesore and a disgrace. Keep your aquarium clear as 



FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 329 

crystal, have the water fresh and pure at all times, and 
never feed more food than your pets will eat. Where 
you have running water in the house, either from the 
city water-supply or from a tank or well, you may 
easily arrange your aquarium so that the water may 
be changed without disturbing the inmates. This is 
by far the best method, for even if your aquarium is 
arranged with plant and animal life so balanced that 
the water is kept fresh, yet more or less sediment 
will accumulate and the water will become foggy or 
semi-opaque unless renewed with fresh water occa- 
sionally. 

To arrange an aquarium so it may be emptied and 
filled automatically you should equip it with an over- 
flow pipe opening into it at the height at which you 
wish to maintain the water. This should be covered 
with fine wire or cloth gauze, and to replenish the 
water all you need to do is to insert a rubber tube from 
the nearest faucet down to within an inch or two of the 
bottom of the aquarium and turn on the water so it 
flows gently. The fresh water coming in at the bottom 
will force the old water out at the top, and if the water 
is allowed to run for some time the aquarium will be 
completely filled with fresh, clean water. 

When the aquarium has a metal or wooden bottom 
the overflow pipe is easily arranged; but if it is an all- 
glass aquarium you must arrange a siphon to draw the 
water off'. To do this bend a piece of glass or metal 
tube — the glass is the better, as you can see the water 
through it — and bend it around at an angle. If you 



330 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

use a metal tube, fill it with damp sand and plug the 
ends before bending; if a glass tube, heat it at the 
point where the bend is to be made in the flame of a 
Bunsen burner or gas-stove until it is bright red; it 
will then bend easily. 

After the bent tube is prepared fill it with water, 
hold the two ends closed with your fingers, and without 
allowing the water to escape place the tube over one 
edge of the aquarium, with one end of the tube in the 
water and the other over a tub or other receptacle. 
Then remove your fingers from the ends of the tube, 
and if you have accomplished the matter properly a 
steady stream of water will flow from the aquarium 
through the siphon. If water fails to flow you may 
try over again, but it is quicker and easier to suck on 
the end of the siphon until the water is drawn up into 
the tube. If care is used there is no necessity of getting 
any water into your mouth, and if the tube is of glass 
you can always avoid this by watching the water as 
you suck and taking your mouth away as soon as the 
water begins to rise over the edge of the aquarium in 
the tube. If a hose or tube is slipped over the outer 
end of the siphon the old water may be led directly 
into a sink or outside of the house. When using a 
siphon be sure and place fine gauze over the inner end 
or some of your animals may be drawn up through it. 

As soon as the siphon commences to flow you may 
turn on the supply of fresh water, leading it to the 
bottom of the aquarium as already described. 

If, while changing the water in this way, you scrub 



FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 33 1 

the glass inside with a long-handled brush, the vege- 
table growth on the glass may be easily removed and 
the dirt will be carried off in the overflow. This is a 
rather important matter, for vegetable growths on the 
glass give the aquarium a neglected, dirty appearance. 
Fresh-water snails will eat this growth, but it will re- 
quire a great many snails to keep it under control and, 
moreover, the snails themselves leave tracks on the 
glass. 

Most water contains various chemical and mineral 
compounds in solution and, after standing awhile in 
an aquarium, these are deposited on the glass in the 
form of brownish, yellowish, or whitish films that must 
be scrubbed off as directed. 

It is a mistake to remove all the inmates of an aqua- 
rium and scrub out the glass and then replace them. 
After an aquarium is once established, the animals and 
plants should be left undisturbed as much as possible. 
Emptying the contents and scrubbing the glass is a 
method which may be followed with goldfish globes 
containing a few live creatures, but it is not a suitable 
method to follow in the case of a real aquarium. 

Never use soap, washing-powder, or other compounds 
in an aquarium; they are all injurious or fatal to the 
aquatic life. 

Aside from renewing the water from time to time 
and scrubbing off any mineral or vegetable deposits, 
on the glass, aquariums require very little care. If any 
animal appears to be sick or dies, it should be removed 
at once by means of a long-handled net, and any food 



332 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

that remains after the inmates have been fed should 
also be removed. Decaying animal or vegetable matter 
soon renders the water foul, and it smells unpleasantly 
besides. 

The inmates of an aquarium should be fed regularly 
and at stated times, and the proper food should be 
given according to the various forms of animal life. 
The chances are that some of your aquarium pets will 
be carnivorous and others herbivorous, and you will 
be compelled to feed both animal and vegetable sub- 
stances to satisfy them all. 

Ordinary goldfish food is very good for many fish; 
for turtles, for newts or salamanders, and for many 
other forms of aquatic life; but some species will not 
touch this, and other kinds of vegetable food must be 
fed. 

Bread-crumbs, grated carrot, bits of lettuce leaves, 
finely cut or grated apple, and soaked rice may be 
tried, and if you see any creature eat any of the sub- 
stances you put in the aquarium, make a note of it 
and feed it regularly; you can always trust an aquatic 
animal to know what is best adapted to its digestive 
apparatus. 

For the carnivorous animals — fish and insects — you 
can feed finely chopped lean beef or liver, earthworms 
cut into one-inch lengths, flies, crickets, other insects, 
and hard-boiled eggs. Some aquatic creatures will 
eat one thing and some another, and some will decline 
all of those mentioned and must be tempted with bits 
of raw fish or fresh-water clams cut into small pieces. 



FRESH-WATER AQUARIUMS 333 

Aim to determine just what your pets do and do not 
eat, and in a short time you will be able to furnish a 
bill of fare that will be suited to all the denizens of the 
aquarium. 



CHAPTER XX 

SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 

Preparation 

IF you live near the sea or where salt water is easily 
obtained, you will find a salt-water aquarium even 
more fascinating than a fresh-water one. The 
variety of salt-water animals is very great, and a large 
proportion of them are extremel}^ interesting in their 
lives and habits. Nearly all of the common salt-water 
creatures thrive well in an aquarium and are easily 
cared for and fed. 

If you live close to the salt water, you can replenish 
the water in your aquarium frequently, but if you are 
at some distance from the sea the salt-water aquarium 
may be arranged in such a way that it will not require 
attention for some time. 

As the water evaporates, you should add fresh water, 
for if salt water is added it will soon become too salt 
and the animals will die. An important matter in 
maintaining any aquarium in good condition is "aera- 
tion" or, in other words, mixing the water with air. 
This may be accomplished by pouring water from one 
receptacle to another or by agitating it or splashing 
it about, or air may be forced through the water by 
means of a submerged tube connected to an air-pump. 

334 



SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 335 

An ordinary bicycle or automobile-tire pump is excel- 
lent for this purpose, and if a tube is led from such a 
pump and so placed that it rests on the bottom of the 
aquarium, and if air is then pumped through it for a 
few minutes each day, the water will be kept in good 
condition for a long time. 

There are marine water-plants in abundance and 
these should always be kept in the aquarium to balance 
the animal life, just as fresh-water plants are kept in 
the fresh-water aquarium. 

In selecting a salt-water aquarium, you must use 
either an all-glass affair or one in which the metal 
parts are protected from corrosion. Iron will soon 
rust away and go to pieces when exposed to the action 
of salt water, and if this metal is used in the aquarium 
it must be enamelled with several coats of water-proof 
paint. Even then iron is not very satisfactory, and 
the aquariums constructed entirely of glass are far 
better. 

Cover the bottom of the aquarium with an inch or 
two of seashore sand, with a few empty shells of various 
sizes, and place a number of rounded, water-worn 
pebbles or rocks in it. Then fill the aquarium with 
clear salt water, and place a good number of handsome 
seaweeds and marine plants in it. Avoid all soft, 
sloppy, or slimy weeds, and if possible use weeds that 
are already attached to small pebbles, old shells, etc. 
Some of the marine plants are very beautifully colored 
and elegant in form. The common "Irish moss" is 
very attractive and gleams with metallic reflections 



336 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

when under water. Other weeds are red, brown, black, 
green, or yellow, and the common rockweed, with its 
bladder-like leaves, should not be overlooked. 

The plants and water should be ready before placing 
animals in the aquarium, but the chances are that you 
will find that you have unwittingly introduced quite 
a family of live things with the plants and stones. 
Many of these are interesting and curious, and some 
will serve as food for other creatures. 

Collecting the Specimens 

You will find collecting specimens of marine animals 
a most absorbing occupation. Few people reahze the 
abundance and variety of marine life that exists every- 
where along our shores. In the sand and mud, among 
weeds, under stones, and cHnging to piles, driftwood, 
and other objects are hundreds of odd and interesting 
creatures, many of which are absolutely unknown to 
the majority of people. 

For marine collecting put on your oldest clothes and 
a pair of stout rubber boots or old shoes that cannot 
be injured by salt water. Have a good assortment of 
bottles, jars, and a pail, and for tools have a dip-net, 
a trowel, a pair of forceps, and a hammer. These are 
all the really essential implements, but a small spade 
and a hoe will be found useful as well as a short iron 
bar. 

Start on the collecting trip as the tide begins to fall, 
and, if possible, select a day when the tide will be very 
low. 



SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 337 

There are two kinds of marine collecting. One con- 
sists in collecting the things that live between high and 
low water marks; the other in hunting for species that 
live below low-water mark. The first is the easiest, 
but a gieat many of the most interesting specimens 
must be collected below low-water mark by means of 
a boat and dredges or trawls. 

Armed with the instruments mentioned and clad in 
your old clothes, you may commence to collect between 
tides, and later on may secure the deeper-water species. 

As the tide falls, look carefully along the beach or 
rocks, and if the shore is sandy or muddy dig into it 
here and there and carefully examine the material you 
dig up. Many marine animals live buried in sand or 
mud and only come forth when covered with water. 
Some of these betray their hiding-places by little mounds 
of sand, holes, or tiny tubes sticking above the surface, 
while others may be located by tiny spurts of water 
issuing from the beach as you walk along. 

The majority of these animals are very lively and 
retreat to the depths of their burrows at the least indi- 
cation of danger, and you must catch them quickly by 
one stroke of the trowel or spade. 

In this way you can obtain razor-clams, sea-cucum- 
bers, numerous crustaceans, and a great variety of 
beautifully colored marine worms. 

A great many of the underground inhabitants are 
slow or sluggish and may be readily dug out with an 
old hoe or rake. Among these are numerous pretty 
shells, sand-dollars, starfishes, and small crabs. The 



338 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

best way to obtain a good assortment of these things is 
to dig up the moist sand and mud and sift it through 
a wire sieve in the water. A mass of apparently clear 
sand treated in this manner will reveal a great variety 
of marine worms, shells, crustaceans, and other forms 
of life, all of which will do nicely in the aquarium. 

On rocky shores you will find an even larger store 
of marine Hfe. Under the loose stones, in crevices of 
the rocks, and in little pools of water left by the reced- 
ing tide there is a wonderful world of bright-colored, 
peculiarly formed, or interesting creatures. Here you 
will find the handsome starfishes crawling slowly about 
m shady spots, or clinging to the under-side of stones; 
hermit-crahs will be seen scuttling about carr^'ing their 
shell houses on their backs; rock-crabs and other crabs 
will be found swarming under loose stones or among 
the rockweed, and various delicately colored snails will 
be found everywhere. 

In the pools you will probably find groups of 
flower-like sea-anemones and possibly fragile ''serpent- 
starfish.''' 

All such creatures should be carefully transferred to 
jars and bottles filled with clear water, and a cloth or 
piece of carpet should be thrown over them to protect 
the contents from the hot sun. Do not collect too 
much; try to get as large a variety as you can with 
comparatively few individuals of each kind, and when 
placing them in the jars be sure and keep the difl^erent 
groups separated. Place all soft, delicate things such 
as sea-anemones in one jar, crabs and crustaceans in 



SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 339 

another, marine worms in another, and snails in still 
another jar. 

When you have collected as many things as you re- 
quire, carry them home and empty the contents of the 
jars into large, white, porcelain dishes — old wash-bowls 
are excellent — with plenty of clean salt water. From 
the bowls you may select such things as you wish, dis- 
carding all injured, dead, or sickly specimens and dirt. 

Lift the creatures gently by forceps and drop them 
into the aquarium, and if it has been prepared properly 
beforehand each of the new arrivals will soon find 
quarters adapted to its needs and will seek here and 
there until it feels perfectly at home. 

It is very interesting and instructive to watch the 
various creatures as they are placed in their new home. 
The snails, after remaining quiet a few moments, will 
start off slowly, crawUng about and feeding as uncon- 
cernedly as though still in their natural haunts. The 
crabs and crustaceans will scuttle here and there, ex- 
ploring every nook and corner, trying first one place 
and then another until a satisfactory spot is discovered 
into which they will slide and settle down perfectly at 
home. The worms will move slowly about and when 
they are satisfied will spread out their magnificent 
tentacles or will burrow into the sand at the bot- 
tom and keep themselves well out of sight most of 
the time. 

The sea-anemones will soon overcome their uneasi- 
ness and bloom like some new and beautiful flowers; 
the starfishes will crawl slowly here and there, never 



340 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

remaining long in one spot but continually seeking for 
food. 

Having introduced the animals you have captured 
along the shore, you maj' turn your attention to forms 
of life found in deeper water. Many of these may be 
obtained from fishermen b}^ visiting their nets and 
placing the freshly captured fish, etc., in pails of clean 
water, while many other interesting things can be pro- 
cured from lobstermen, w^ho find quantities of crabs, 
fish, shells, etc., in their pots. 

The best method, however, is to capture the creatures 
yourself, and 3'ou will find this the most fascinating 
and attractive work connected with salt-water aqua- 
riums. 

When dredging or trawling from a boat in deep water 
you are working on ground never seen by man, and 
with every haul you will find some new and strange 
creature of whose existence you were entirely ignorant. 
In collecting deep-water animals you will require a 
boat, a trawl, a dredge, tangles, and the jars, forceps, 
pail, sieve, etc., that 3'ou used in shore collecting. 

The dredge consists of an iron frame of metal covered 
with a coarse, strong net; and outside of the net an 
open bag of canvas should be placed to protect the net 
from injur3\ Any blacksmith can make the frame for 
the dredge, which for your use should be about 15 to 
18 inches long, and 6 to 10 inches wide. Fasten the 
tow-rope to the dredge as shown in the cut, and in this 
way the dredge will be released automatically by the 
breaking of the small line if it gets caught on a rough 




. i (H i 

/tAinfl 7a yr ales 

IMPLEMENTS FOR COLLECTING AQUATIC LIFE. 




RAZOR CLAM. 



SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 341 

ledge or other object. It is a good plan to have the 
dredge net open at the end and tied together with a 
cord, as this saves lots of time and trouble in empty- 
ing it. 

A short distance from the dredge a weight should be 
attached to the draw rope to keep the strain from lift- 
ing the dredge from the bottom. 

The trawl is an iron frame, a wooden or iron beam, 
and a net with one edge weighted with lead. The 
frame proper may be constructed of light, flat iron with 
a length of iron pipe for the beam. The cut shows 
very plainly how it is made and how the drag-rope is 
attached to it. 

The tangles are very useful and are so simple that 
any boy can make them. They consist merely of 
bunches of ravelled rope or bundles of twine fastened 
to chains so they may be dragged over the bottom; 
the chains are fastened to a wooden or iron beam or 
bar, with hoops or wheels at either end so that the 
ends of the bar will not catch on rocks or other 
objects. 

The dredge, trawl, and tangles must be drawn over 
the bottom from a boat. If the water is not too deep 
or the dredge or trawl too large, you can use a row- 
boat, but a sailboat is better, and a small power-boat 
is the best of all. Never attempt to drag these things 
rapidly — three or four miles an hour is fast enough — 
and if you use a sailboat, reef the sail and keep the 
dredge or trawl rope over the windward after rail; 
otherwise if it catches on a rock the boat may be upset, 



342 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

but if kept as directed the boat may be quickly brought 
into the wind if anything happens. 

.The dredge is for use on muddy or sandy bottoms, 
the trawl on bottoms of any kind, and the tangles are 
preferable on rough or rocky bottoms. 

With these implements you will be able to obtain 
many fish, lots of starfish, sponges, crustaceans, shells, 
ascidiaceans, sea-anemones, naked mollusks, squids, 
and, in fact, nearly every form of marine life that occurs 
on your particular part of the coast. 

In taking the various specimens from the trawl or 
dredge, use care not to injure them and transfer them 
to jars or pails of clean water just as quickly as you can. 
A few moments' exposure to the air will kill or injure 
many of the deep-water specimens. 

Care and Feeding 

First of all, keep your aquarium clean. A salt-water 
aquarium may be kept as clean and neat as a fresh- 
water one, and it is in many ways easier to care 
for. 

Nearly all the salt-water animals are carnivorous, 
and sick or injured creatures are quickly devoured by 
their companions. The snails will do much toward 
keeping the glass clean, but it should be scrubbed from 
time to time, as already directed, and the water should 
be aerated daily and replenished at least once every 
two weeks. If you can possibly obtain clean salt water 
each day you will have far better success, but if the 
plant and animal life is properly proportioned the 



SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 343 

water will remain good for a week or two unless it is 
overcrowded. 

Do not overstock the aquarium. Remember that 
the ocean is very large, and while the animals in their 
native state appear crowded and very numerous in a 
small space, yet they are surrounded by countless 
gallons of water, and that in proportion to the ocean 
itself their numbers are insignificant. 

It is a very good plan to have several aquariums 
and to confine certain forms of life to each. Fish, 
with a few snails, crabs, and plants may be kept in 
one, crustaceans in another, and sea-anemones, sea- 
urchins, starfish, and a few others in a third. 

Some forms of marine animals cannot be kept in the 
same aquarium with others. Large crabs or lobsters 
will attack and destroy fish, shells, worms, and other 
forms of Hfe, and will fight among themselves. 

Many fish will devour worms, shells, crustaceans, 
and other creatures, while starfish are inveterate de- 
stroyers of all sorts of shell-fish. 

Some practice and experience will be necessary in 
order to determine what species get along weU together; 
but even if a few specimens are destroyed at first it 
will be no great loss, for others can easily be obtained 
to take their place. 

Practically all of your marine specimens will thrive 
on the same sort of food, and this simplifies matters 
greatly. Chopped clams is a splendid food for salt- 
water animals, and chopped fish, chopped shrimp or 
crawfish, broken snails, finely chopped raw meat, and 



344 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

similar substances are all good. "Watching the animals 
feed" is always an attraction at a menagerie or zoolog- 
ical garden, but until you have watched your marine 
animals feed you will not realize what an interesting 
process it is. 

The only drawback to the salt-water aquarium is 
that its inmates never become tame or sociable. A 
few of the fish and some of the crabs may learn that 
your approach is associated with a good meal, but the 
majority of marine creatures have their brains too fully 
occupied in keeping out of reach of their companions 
to think of anything else. The life of marine animals 
is a constant struggle for existence and food; but al- 
though we cannot consider these creatures as pets, yet 
we shall find them far more instructive and interest- 
ing than many real pets possessing a great deal more 
intelligence. 

Specimens of Peculiar Interest 

Although all marine animals have interesting habits 
and are well worthy of study, yet certain forms are 
particularly fascinating. A great many marine animals 
form very remarkable partnerships with other creatures 
belonging to very different families. Sometimes these 
chums associate for the purpose of mutual protection, 
and sometimes because they can obtain a better food 
supply in this way. 

Many spider-crabs regularl)^ transplant marine plants, 
sponges, and other growths from their natural homes to 
their own backs. The spider-crab looks after these 



SALT-WATER AQUARIUMS 345 

things with a great deal of care, and when he changes 
his shell he transplants the growths to his new covering. 
In this case the miniature forest of marine things on 
the crab's back serves to protect him from his enemies. 
Hermit-crabs— which are always droll and interesting 
creatures — often cultivate sea-anemones on their shell 
house. Indeed, some species of hermits cannot exist 
without these companions, while certain sea-anemones 
must be placed on a crab's house in order to thrive. 

The bits of food dropped by the crab undoubtedly 
furnish most of the diet for the anemones, while the 
latter are poisonous to fishes and thus protect the 
hermit from his natural foes. 

If you live in the South or visit tropical waters for 
a few weeks in the winter, you should certainly have 
an aquarium, for in tropic seas the forms of marine 
life are very beautiful and wonderful. 

Live corals, for example, are easily kept in an aqua- 
rium, and when expanded they appear like great clus- 
ters of gorgeous flowers. Corals, as we ordinarily see 
them, are merely the dead and bleached skeletons, and 
look hardly more like the hving corals than a bird's 
skeleton looks like a hve bird. When alive the coral 
is covered with a great number of sea-anemone-like 
animals, each of which occupies one of the openings 
that we see in dried coral. They are usually most 
brilliantly colored and beautiful in form. 

The tropical fishes are also magnificent creatures. 
Many of them are colored with hues of red, green, blue, 
yellow, purple, and gold, and look more like brilliant 



346 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

birds than like the fishes that we know in the North. 
Such species as the angel-fish, parrot-fish, coral-fish, 
etc., are graceful in form as well as gorgeous in color, 
and are very easy to keep in an aquarium in the South. 
Even in the North these exotic species ma}^ be success- 
fully kept, but the water must be maintained at a vet}' 
even temperature and must be very clean and fresh. 

Not onl}' are aquariums very ornamental and inter- 
esting, but they are very instructive, and by their use 
we have gained a ver}' large part of our knowledge of 
the lives and habits of the myriad denizens of the sea. 



CHAPTER XXI 

REPTILES 
Reptiles as Pets 

ONCE our natural aversion to reptiles is over- 
come, we find that many of them are very 
interesting creatures, beautiful in color and 
docile and confiding in disposition. 

The commonly accepted idea that all reptiles are 
slimy, clammy, cold creatures is entirely wrong. A 
great many of the lizards and snakes are as smooth 
and soft as satin or silk. No true reptiles are slimy 
or clammy, and, as a rule, their bodies are so warmed by 
the sun that they are far from being cold to the touch. 

Only a very small proportion of reptiles are poisonous, 
and the majority are perfectly harmless, many species 
being incapable of inflicting a wound or injury of any 
sort. 

Scarcely any one who has examined lizards, snakes, 
and similar creatures in museums or menageries will 
deny that they are beautiful. Their colors are often 
brilliant, they are handsomely blended or arranged in 
pleasing patterns, and when healthy and clean they 
shimmer and glisten with a myriad of iridescent tints. 

Even the supposition that all reptiles are stupid, 
ill-tempered, or untamable is far from correct, for many 

347 



348 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

snakes, lizards, and turtles are susceptible to kind treat- 
ment and learn to recognize their masters and to re- 
spond to a call or name. Thus we have disposed of all 
the objections to reptiles as pets and may consider how 
they should be cared lor and fed and what species are 
adapted to captivity. 

The majority of reptiles are very easily housed and 
cared for and require very little attention. If given 
food and water and plenty of space and warmth, rep- 
tiles will be perfectly content, for their sole occupation 
in life consists in taking things easy, eating, and bask- 
ing in the sun. 

Some reptiles require dampness, and others require 
a very dry atmosphere, according to whether they are 
woodland denizens or inhabitants of sandy, desert 
wastes, and you must know to which class your rep- 
tiles belong before arranging their cages. 

Our common snakes and many foreign species love 
a damp atmosphere, and to be happy they should have 
numerous plants, grass, etc., in their cages. Other 
species are fond of water and must be provided with 
receptacles in which to bathe and swim. Still others 
live naturally in trees and bushes, and should be 
furnished with them; and many kinds of reptiles 
naturally living in crevices and crannies of rocks 
should be furnished a pile of stones in confinement. 

Lizards, as a rule, are lovers of dry air and brilliant 
sunshine and will thrive best in a cage provided with 
dry sand, a few rocks, and a tree or bush on which to 
chmb. 



REPTILES 349 

A very satisfactory reptile liouse can be constructed 
of wood and glass, especially if the inmates are snakes. 
The cage may be merely a deep, roomy box with a 
glass top and small openings for ventilation, or it may 
be constructed with glass sides and ends like a huge 
aquarium. Where native species are kept, a cage 
made of wood, with a hinged netting-covered top and 
wire-netting sides, will answer; and for lizards the net- 
ting is preferable to glass. Indeed, almost any sort of 
a box or cage will serve for keeping reptiles, the only 
essentials being that it must be accessible so as to be 
easily cleaned and arranged so that food may be in- 
troduced or specimens removed without danger of the 
inmates escaping. 

The size of the cage or house must be governed by 
the number and size of the reptiles. A number of 
small snakes or a whole colony of the small tropical 
lizards commonly called "chameleons" will thrive in 
a box or cage 2 feet long, 2 feet high, and 18 inches 
wide, whereas a large python or boa or several large 
blacksnakes or iguanas will require more room. A 
great deal of space is not, however, necessary for rep- 
tiles, since they usually get along well together and will 
sleep and rest coiled or nestled together in a very so- 
ciable manner. The main object in having plenty of 
room is to afford exercise and make it easier to keep 
the quarters clean. 

Many so-called reptiles are really amphibians. Such 
are the frogs, toads, and salamanders, and these should 
not be confounded with true reptiles, for their habits 



350 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

are very different, and they require different cages, 
treatment, and food. The various salamanders are 
frequently called "lizards," but they are not at all 
like real lizards save in form. The skins of all reptiles 
are covered with scales, and they are never slimy, 
whereas amphibians have no scales and are usually 
slimy or exude some sort of liquid from pores in their 
body. The western "Horned Toad" is a true lizard, 
but the common toad is an amphibian. 

Nearly all reptiles, with the exception of a few lizards 
and turtles, feed upon live animals or insects, and they 
will seldom eat dead animals or raw meat. For this 
reason it is at times difficult to feed reptiles, and one 
must keep a supply of live food on hand for the larger 
species. But reptiles can go a long time without food 
with little discomfort, and you must not expect them 
to eat daily. 

Lizards 

Nearly every species of lizard may be kept in cap- 
tivity. The little Blue-Tailed Lizards of the Southern 
and Eastern States are pretty and attractive creatures 
and become very tame. The West Indian House 
Lizards, popularly called "chameleons," are frequently 
kept as pets by ladies, and these little fellows are always 
lively, interesting, and docile. These West Indian 
lizards become very tame and will soon learn to recog- 
nize their master or mistress and to answer to a call 
or whistle. They are very fond of music and will sit 
motionless for hours listening to a piano or other 



REPTILES 351 

musical instrument. While doing this they have an 
odd habit of elevating the head, swelling out the throat 
and moving up and down on their legs. 

In the West Indies they are exceedingly abundant 
everywhere and run in and out of houses and buildings 
when and where they please. They are not molested 
for they are inveterate destroyers of flies, mosquitoes, 
and ants and help a great deal in keeping these pests 
under control. It is not at all unusual for one or more 
of these little lizards to jump onto the table during 
meals and make himself perfectly at home, picking up 
a crumb here and there and gobbling up any unwary 
fly that is attracted to the table. 

If grasped by the tail these creatures break away 
and escape, leaving their tails behind them. This does 
not inconvenience them in the least, for the tail soon 
grows again, and one may frequently see lizards with- 
out tails, with tails just sprouting, or with tails half 
grown. This is a wise provision of nature, for the 
natural enemies of the lizards are more apt to grasp 
them by the tail than elsewhere, but you should bear 
this fact in mind and not hold your pets by their tails 
unless you want a collection of bobtailed lizards. 

Lizards change their skins quite frequently, and 
after the process is over the}^ come forth in a very shiny, 
bright coat and with a very healthy appetite. Before 
changing their skin they become dull-colored, thin, and 
lazy, and at this time they should not be handled or 
disturbed. 

These little lizards feed mainly on flies and other 



352 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

small insects, but they will also eat crumbs, bits of raw 
meat, fruit, earthworms, and boiled egg. Meal-worms 
and ants' eggs are good for them, and if a bit of decay- 
ing fruit is placed in their cage it will attract flies in 
warm weather. If the netting of the cage has mesh 
coarse enough to admit flies but not large enough to 
allow the lizards to escape, they will secure a good many 
insects attracted by fruit in this way. If you wish to 
give your pet lizards a real treat, place them in a sunny 
window where there are flies. You will be greatly in- 
terested and amused to see how easily the little fellows 
catch the lively insects and how lightning-like are 
their motions. 

Some species of the small lizards have suckers on 
their toes and can climb upside down on glass or other 
smooth surfaces, but the majority of the species de- 
pend upon clinging with their delicate, sharp toes. 

The West Indian lizards possess the power of chang- 
ing color and will assume a tint corresponding fairly 
closely to that of their surroundings. Certain species 
have this power developed more than others and 
can change from bright green to gray, brown, or yellow 
very quickly. This habit has led to their being called 
"chameleons," but in reality the true chameleon is 
another species of lizard found in Africa and southern 
Europe. 

The real chameleon is an exceedingly ugly-looking 
creature, with great, staring eyes, an uncouth head and 
body, and queer toes that resemble the feet of a parrot. 
Whereas the American lizards are very lively and active 



REPTILES 353 

and capture their insect prey by leaping upon it, the 
true chameleon is slow and deliberate in its actions 
and captures insects by darting out its long, sticky 
tongue, to which the insects adhere. Chameleons are 
very tender and are not easy to rear in captivity, but 
they are very odd and interesting creatures. They are 
not half as desirable as the West Indian lizards, how- 
ever, and are merely desirable as curiosities. 

Horned Toads 

These are broad, flat, curious lizards found on the 
sandy plains and deserts of our Western and South- 
western States. They are very quiet, docile creatures, 
become very tame, and learn to answer to a call. 

They require a sunny, warm spot, and love to bask 
in sand or on exposed rocks. They feed upon insects 
but will eat crumbs, earthworms, fruit, and ants' eggs 
when kept in captivity. They cannot jump or climb 
to any extent, but when they wish to do so they can 
run with remarkable speed. They are exceedingly easy 
to keep in confinement, requiring little care or atten- 
tion. 

The Horned Toads have for many years been credited 
with the power of "shooting" blood from their eyes 
when disturbed. This was formerly considered a super- 
stition of ignorant people, but quite recently well-known 
scientists have proved that this queer creature actually 
can squirt little drops of blood, or blood-colored liquid, 
from special pores near the eyes. 

The Horned Toad has a third eye in the top of its 



354 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

head, between the other eyes. This pecuHarity is com- 
mon to many other species of lizards, but the third eye 
is covered with skin and does not have any power of 
sight. It merely indicates the presence of a true third 
eye, which was a feature of some of the giant lizards of 
prehistoric times. 

Gila Monsters 

These large orange and black lizards are frequently 
seen in menageries and zoological parks. They are 
natives of the Southwest and are ugly, ill-tempered 
beasts only suitable for curiosities. They are poisonous 
but have never been known to cause serious injury or 
death to human beings when in captivity. In a natural 
state the Gila Monster feeds upon small birds, animals, 
insects, and birds' eggs. In captivity it will devour 
eggs, and will eat mice, frogs, or other live things. 

Alligators 

These animals, as well as crocodiles, are very stupid. 
Travellers frequently bring them home from Florida, 
and they are also sold by pet dealers, but they are so 
far lacking in intelligence as to be most uninteresting. 
They are very easily kept and should be placed in a 
box or cage with a pan of water embedded in the floor 
or earth of the cage. They love warmth and sunshine 
and may be fed upon flies, worms, small toads and 
frogs, mice, fish, and raw meat. Even a comparatively 
small alligator can bite viciously, and alligators can 




REPTILES. 

I. Gila Monster. 2. Horned Toad. 3. True Chameleon. 4. West Indian Lizard. 



REPTILES 355 

never be trusted. It is said that they may be tamed 
and tramed, but I have never actually seen an educated 
or really tame aUigator or crocodile. 

Iguanas 

The iguanas are giant tree-lizards of the American 
tropics and are often very beautifully colored with 
blue and green. They grow to very large size, often 
6 to 8 feet in length, and are much prized for food by 
the people who live in the countries where they are 
found. They are really excellent eating and taste 
much like young chicken. 

The iguanas spend most of their time in the trees, 
but they can swim readily and do not hesitate to enter 
lakes or rivers to escape their enemies. 

When wild, iguanas are quite ferocious and if cap- 
tured or wounded will bite viciously and will hold 
onto any object they seize with the tenacity of a bull- 
dog. 

They become very tame in captivity and love to 
be petted and scratched and are very fond of music, 
especially whistling. They are very easy to keep if 
given plenty of room, branches to crawl on, and con- 
siderable warmth. 

They live mainly on fruit, young leaves, and tender 
shoots and in captivity will thrive on bananas, apples, 
lettuce, clover, etc. They will also eat raw meat, eggs, 
and msects. Iguanas enjo}^ an occasional bath, and a 
large dish of water should be furnished for bathing 
once a week. 



356 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

Turtles 

Any of the turtles may be kept in captivity. Land- 
tortoises require some sort of an enclosure, and a large 
box with a bottom of coarse wire netting is an excel- 
lent cage. The land-tortoises eat earthworms, insects, 
and vegetables, and if the box is moved from place to 
place occasionally, the turtles will find a great deal of 
sustenance in the form of grass, clover, etc. Fresh 
pieces of apples, cabbage, and lettuce leaves, raw 
sweet potatoes, broken squash or pumpkin, green corn, 
and various other vegetables are relished by these 
creatures, and earthworms should also be given. Land- 
turtles become more or less tame but have little in- 
telligence. If your tame land-turtle does not show 
signs of fright when you approach and will allow you 
to handle him without drawing into his shell and hiss- 
ing, you should be satisfied. 

Water-turtles are far more intelligent than land- 
tortoises, but even these creatures seldom learn more 
than to recognize their owners and to take food from 
the hand. The only care required for water-turtles 
is to provide clean water, rocks, or logs for them to 
crawl upon and to give the proper food. They may 
be kept in, an aquarium with a block of wood floating 
on the water, or the}^ may have a special cage consisting 
of an open box with a tub or pan of water inside. The 
bottom of the box should be covered with clean sand, 
and the pan of water arranged so that the turtles may 
climb in and out readily. 



REPTILES 357 

Water-turtles may be fed on meal-worms, earth- 
worms, raw meat, bits of fish, insects of all kinds, and 
goldfish food. 

Turtles lay their eggs in sand near ponds or other 
bodies of water, and when kept in captivity they fre- 
quently lay a number of their white, leathery-shelled 
eggs. If not broken or injured the eggs will usually 
hatch, and the young turtles are very odd and inter- 
esting. Some species have a queer httle horn on the 
nose and suggest some pygmy rhinoceros. The horn 
is to enable the young turtles to break the egg-shells, 
and it soon drops off after they hatch. 

Turtles hibernate in cold weather in the North and 
should either be taken indoors in winter or provided 
with facilities for hibernating. Water-turtles bury 
themselves in the mud for the winter, while land- 
turtles dig into the earth under dead leaves, brush, etc. 

Snakes 

There is a fascination about snakes which causes 
persons who are deathly afraid of them to watch them 
intently and to return again and again to their cage. 
Many people have an idea that this is because of some 
occult power the snake has to "charm" human beings, 
but this is not the case. It is doubtful if any snake 
can "charm" even a small bird or animal, and the 
reason people are attracted or fascinated by these 
reptiles lies in the human brain. Some persons are 
morbidly curious, and any grewsome or frightful sight 
will attract rhem, and the fact that they fear snakes 



358 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT 

arouses this morbid curiosity and causes them to gaze 
at a reptile in much the same way that some people 
will gaze at a murderer or other criminal. 

To One who is not thus affected snakes are very grace- 
ful, handsome, and interesting creatures. They are 
not particularly intelligent, but the}^ may be tamed 
until very docile. The snakes handled by so-called 
"snake-charmers" are gentle and quiet merely because 
they are tame and accustomed to handling and not 
because of any ability to charm residing in the human 
performer. Any boy or girl in the audience could 
handle the snake-charmer's pets just as freely as the 
professional. 

Snakes are easily kept and require little attention. 
Warmth, cleanliness, and food are the only essentials. 
The majority of snakes require live animals for food, 
and the kind of animals to be given will depend upon 
the size of the snake. Small garter-snakes, black- 
snakes, and similar species will thrive upon crickets, 
beetles, small frogs, mice, etc. Bull-snakes, pine-snakes, 
puffing adders, and other large-sized American species 
should have toads, frogs, mice, and insects; pythons, 
boas, anacondas, and very large snakes must be fed 
on rats, guinea-pigs, rabbits, or other fairly good-sized 
animals. 

This is the greatest objection to raising snakes, for 
a great many people consider it very cruel to feed a 
live animal to a snake. As a matter of fact, it is not 
half as cruel to give a rat or mouse to a snake as to a 
cat or dog. The snake makes a lightning-like dart at 



REPTILES 359 

the animal and kills it instantly, whereas the cat or 
dog worries it, mangles it, and rejoices in its suffering. 

The argument is sometimes advanced that birds and 
animals are in deadly fear of snakes and suffer great 
mental torture when placed in their cage. This is 
pure sentimental nonsense in most cases. * I have 
often seen rats, guinea-pigs, and rabbits in a cage with 
large boas, and they did not exhibit the slightest sign 
of fear. On the contrary, they ran here and there, 
over and among the snakes, and even ate contentedly 
while in the same cage. 

As curiosities snakes are excellent, and if a boy is 
fond of such things he can find considerable amuse- 
ment and interest with tame snakes, but they can 
scarcely be considered desirable household pets or 
companions. 






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